If you had the choice

[fotom]

Honestly speaking, i was using H3DII-39 then upgraded to H4D-60, if i neglect about mp or file size, i will say H4D is a significant improvement over H3D, True focus and high ISO, i can shoot with ISO 800 by H4D and it will look better than ISO 200/400 on H3D, that may help me sometimes for low light, so i will go with H4D31 over H3D models, try to see H4D40 if you can afford it.

The 50MP Back is able to shoot with ISO800 but I recognized that all pictures get some "red" when used in ISO more than 100.

How to get rid of that?

I saw the same problem with the Mamiya/ PhaseOne Back at the pictures taken at Calumet. That is the main reason why I use ISO50.

 

[fotografz]

Hello,

I thank you all for sharing your opinion and try to help me to find a solution. You did a good work! I will stay with the H3DII-50.

... This photographer also told me, that the 50-110 zoom is one of the best found on the marked. Is that so? In that case I would add the 120/4 Makro for stills and product work.

The difference between MF and FX Format is obviously. At least in my eyes.

Congratulations, and welcome to the Hasselblad club!

Yes, the 50-110 zoom is very good, very early models had an issue, but that was corrected by Hasselblad. I have a friend that uses that lens almost exclusively, and has done so for many years now. I think the only other lens he has is the 120/4 Macro.

Best of luck!

-Marc

 

[fotom]

Marc,

thank you.

Do you know what kind of issue they had?

I can not find any problem so far and as it has been in use for 15.000 clicks I do not believe there will come up a serious problem in the next time.

Shutter should stay alive for at least 100.000 clicks. To work with that camera is not like taking pictures in a similar speed as with the D3s.

 

[Chris Giles]

TBH shoot primes, any MF zooms tend to be silly heavy. The 100mm is an excellent starting point.

 

[fotom]

Stan,

thank you for your input.

I had taken some pictures similar to the shown at the Hasselblad website. It is fantastic to walk through the pictures and look in somebody else´s home. But therefore you need it big.

I tried some shots. Maybe they are not perfect, but the details in crop is "wow".

I like my son´s pictures most.

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[fotografz]

Marc,

thank you.

Do you know what kind of issue they had?

I can not find any problem so far and as it has been in use for 15.000 clicks I do not believe there will come up a serious problem in the next time.

Shutter should stay alive for at least 100.000 clicks. To work with that camera is not like taking pictures in a similar speed as with the D3s.

In some earlier models of the 50-110, when the lens was used straight downward the front element could come loose or even fall out. Hasselblad quickly corrected it, and fixed ones that it happened to. I seriously doubt there are any out there that still have the problem. I only mentioned it because someone here said something about it. It is old news and fixed long ago.

Have fun, it is a great camera especially for what you want to shoot.

-Marc

 

[fotom]

Chris,

you are right. The weight and the size is huge. That was the reason I was looking for some alternatives.

I would go for:

HC35 oder HC50 - HC100/2,2 - HC120/4 - HC180

But this will be done step by step.

I am not sure if I take a 35 or a 50. For huge pictures for big prints (I have the possibility to print in 900x4000mm) I usually take more than one picture and stitch it. I did so with the D3s (sometimes I needed more than 20 pictures) and with the D3x (around 10 for good results). With the H3D I need only 3 or 4 shots. That is a difference.

 

[fotom]

Does anybody know if the 50MP back of the H3D can be used on an H4D body?

The newer DBs seem to be different in tech spec. But as far as I can see there should be no problem to use different parts on different bodies as long as they belong to the H line.

 

[fotografz]

No. Each back and body are matched at the factory and calibrated together. You can special order a spare body for a back, but it has to be calibrated together with your back at Hasselblad ... at least I think they will still do this.

As far as I know, the H3D/H3D-II have different protocols and features from the H4D and they do not mix.

You can use any H back on a tech or studio view camera, but either need a Hasselblad Image Bank-II to provide power to the back (also allowing you to store up to 100Gig of images on both a CF cards and the Image bank), or tether the back to a computer.

BTW, there is no HC-180 lens. There is a HC-150/3.2 or 150N, and a HC-210/4. The 150mm is smaller than the 210mm if that is what you are looking for.

Here is a tip, get the super fast HC-100/2.2 and 1.7X ... it really works well and gives you 170mm f/3.8 ... stopped down a bit it is quite sharp, and wide open it is a very nice close focusing combination for head shots with beautiful Bokeh.

-Marc

 

[fotom]

Marc,

thank you. I mixed something up and had a 180 on my mind but it seems it was a CF or CFi lens.

The converter provides AF- function?

Well, it seems that I will need to save some more money to get a H4D-xx as a backup...

 

[fotografz]

Marc,

thank you. I mixed something up and had a 180 on my mind but it seems it was a CF or CFi lens.

The converter provides AF- function?

Well, it seems that I will need to save some more money to get a H4D-xx as a backup...

Yes, the 1.7X extender is fully functional and AF is just as fast. BTW, I was wrong, the 100/2.2 becomes a 170/3.3 not 3.8. Unfortunately it cannot be used with the 50-110 lens, nor WA from 35mm and wider. Full info here:

http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/6672/converter17 v5.pdf

You can use any leaf-shutter Zeiss V lens like the CFE-180/4, etc, but need the CF adapter which can be bought used for about $800 or so. The H camera automatically indexes any CFE lens, and has all of the CF and CFi lenses listed in the grip menu for manual selection when using those lenses. The Zeiss 40IF CFE is a particularly good wide angle. Of course none of the V lenses are AF.

http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/5912/cf lens adapter.pdf

BTW, Hasselblad now offers a new Macro Converter to use wider H lenses in Macro mode ... it also works on the HTS/1.5 ... which is very good news :thumbup:

-Marc

 

[JoshMerwin]

That's what I use, the 100 2.2 with the 1.7x/extension tubes, depending on what I'm shooting. Good to hear that the 50-110 build quality issues were corrected.

You should demo the new macro converter if you want to use it with lenses other than the wide angles. I tested it briefly last week and I think it's basically a 5mm extension tube for lenses other than wide angle. I only had it for 5 minutes though...

Sorry Alan, it's not MF magic, just the way it is. That's the biggest mis-conception. Resolution isn't just megapixels. It's the quality/look(rendering) of the file. Can you take an image with a D800/E, etc. and get it to be really close to the MF cameras/backs, sure.
But it's a lot more post production work to get there with a DSLR, than the MF setup. Plus it sill doesn't render the same depth.

Josh

 

[Swissblad]

Ah, I forgot about the unquantifiable, undefendable Medium Format magic. "MF just looks better", right! BS.

It just my opinion, but given the choice between a cropped 31 MP Hasselblad MF SLR for $12000 and an 36 MP Nikon D800E SLR for $3200, well lets just say that "magic" is pretty damn expensive both in terms of $$ and loss of features on the MF SLR compared to the 35mm. And not believing in magic, it's pretty hard to swallow.

Anyway my original point was to go with the 50MP back. I could not understand why you would want sacrifice MF's only real advantage, resolution, for a few SLR features (Hasselblad H3DII-50 versus a Hasselblad H4D-31). Given that line of thinking, I thought the OP might be better served by a top end 35mm SLR. Again, just my opinion.

In that case why don't pro DSLR users just buy a Sony NEX7 with 24mp etc rather than a D4 with 16mp.......

There are lots of DX crop factor bodies with more MPs than FX bodies

Your argument doesn't hold.

Take a look at Dan's photo on the tech forum on this site - they were taken with a 22mp back!

 

[fotografz]

Josh, I think the new Macro converter is being specifically marketed as a 6.5mm WA "optical" extension tube ... I believe the lens elements inside are designed for that application.

It is supposed to open up new areas of wide angle close up work to provide a different sort of look that can't be had with the 120 macro that foreshortens or compacts smaller objects, or WA lenses used with the standard extension tube like the H13.

That it can be used with the HTS/1.5 means that in combination with a WA lens, greater DOF can be achieved with less stopping down thus avoiding potential de-fraction issues. The only question I have in that regard is how much tilt is possible before vignetting ... there isn't a tech sheet on this item yet to determine any of that.

If it can be used with longer lenses, that would be a bonus ... a 6.5mm tube would be great on a 100/2.2 to get a bit closer for subject isolation ... where the H13 can be a bit much. However, for that application alone, it is just too expensive.

We'll see ... I'm going to try to get one to test in studio.

I'm also in negotiations with Hasselblad and my dealer regarding a move upstream to a H5D/200 Multi-Shot, since between 35mm and my Leica S2, most other applications are being adequately covered. This would effectively end any debate regarding file quality for any studio still life applications ... I previously used a 39 MS, and loved the files ... best color reproduction I've ever seen, and zero moiré ... this would be a big step up from that.

Lots of stuff will have to be put into the F/S section if I pull the trigger on that big gun ... :ROTFL:

-Marc

 

[fotografz]

In that case why don't pro DSLR users just buy a Sony NEX7 with 24mp etc rather than a D4 with 16mp.......

There are lots of DX crop factor bodies with more MPs than FX bodies

Your argument doesn't hold.

Take a look at Dan's photo on the tech forum on this site - they were taken with a 22mp back!

Debating this is a waste of time, camaraderie and good will. Either you see it or you don't ... and dismissing either POV as being BS is discounting each individual's proclivity and studied visual opinion based on what and how they shoot.

Never the twain shall meet ... and personally I'm inclined to leave it at that.

More power to whatever cranks your clock

-Marc

 

[Swissblad]

Thanks Marc - I really shouldn't reply before I've had a 2nd cuppa coffee!

 

[fotom]

Hi folks,

I tested the new camera in my studio today and I believe it is possible to do people stuff with the H3DII-50.

I also believe I know now what the TrueFocus is perfect for. It helps to do some stuff a little bit more elegant and without problems. But... with a little physics I can help me out. In any other case I can use the center AF, simply take the picture just "as seen" and after that I crop the hell out of it...

The 50MP DB is great. I start loving it.

I tried the 1/500 for studio work. It is great. I am "only" used to 1/125 with my D3s and 1/250 with my former D800. The H3D is outstanding. I could use it out of hand with the HC50-110. The heavy weight is stabilizing very well and the Profoto flashes had been very good in syncing. Somebody warned me that at least the Acute B600 AirS could make some trouble but it seems it hasn´t.

I will take a close look on that tomorrow because I plan to use the mobile generator outdoor with the H3D and the "high speed" 1/500 is an advantage for different stuff.

Here an example of todays work. My wife loves them.

View attachment 66305

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[Swissblad]

Enjoy your camera - look forward to more photos!

 

[Stan ROX]

Great! Welcome as a Hasselblad owner. Looking forward to see more examples of your work!

S.
stanROX.com

 

[proenca]

Ah, I forgot about the unquantifiable, undefendable Medium Format magic. "MF just looks better", right! BS.

(...) Again, just my opinion.

Try out and see for yourself.

The "magic" is there - even if you dont see it, the file flexibility is huge. humongus. I can now, with my S2, recover from highlights which are blown beyond recovery with a D800. I can pull stuff from shadows that I cant believe they are there.

I tried to convinced myself that a D800E and a few lenses is all I needed. And truth to be told, they are. I tried it and then a Leica S2.

The difference is abysmal. The Leica files are a natural "sucessor" to the M9 ( which I also own ). They require much, but much less post processing than a D800. If you get everything right, just a few moments in Lightroom to make a grand picture. Not so with the D800 - it can make a compeling competitor, but many hours have to be spent to get that "pop" in Photoshop with layers, masks and this and that.

Magic ? Well, the S lens are just magical to me : their bokeh, their sharpness, they are great. Shoot my S2 side by side with a D800E with a 85 1.4 and you can't get there. Really cant. Close ? yes, Nikon it is close : but just not there.

So after having the blessing of the wife, reading as much as I can, I plunged in a great deal for a Leica S2. Yes, I could have got a brand spanking new D800E with great Zeiss and Nikon less for less than half the money.

But I see the magic Its there, trust me

oh and try to pay attention to Marc ( fotografz ) ; apart from being a fantastic photographer, I think its the first person on internet forums I think of when I see a post "oh which Hasselblad XXX is better ??". He simply used them all. Experience first hands with a product is much different than reading stuff on the web and seeing scaled down jpegs