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digiback CCD cleaning ????

goesbang

Member
I had exactly the same problem.

www.getdpi.com/forum/medium-format-...what-am-i-doing-wrong-my-sensor-cleaning.html

Post 24 in that thread worked a treat for me.

B only. Firm pressure. As slow as you can.
I would caution against using firm pressure, EVER. Firstly, enough pressure in the right place will crack the glass filter. Its about a grand$ to replace. Secondly, if you follow through after the glass cracks, you shatter the CCD. Thirdly, and highest risk is that if you have even the smallest piece of grit on the filter that is harder than the coating on the filter, you will be dragging it under pressure across the filter and will scratch it. I have seen people do all 3 of these things.

MINIMAL PRESSURE ONLY!!!!!!!
 

gerald.d

Well-known member
Obviously "firm" is relative. There are a couple of videos on YouTube that I looked at. They show a pressure that just slightly bends the plastic that you wrap the cloth around. Prior to seeing the video, I was treating the thing way to gently!
 

gerald.d

Well-known member
Incidentally, it's pretty clear that the Phase instructions are just plain wrong for the vast majority of scenarios. Perhaps the dealers here with connections to the mothership could send some feedback to get those directions changed?
 

yongfei

New member
Ok, now I understand that the Phase instruction on the Youtube may not be the best way - I need to apply solution B several times after using solution A.

Another mistake that I made was to pour the solution A directly on the CCD filter, thinking that would disolve the oily smudge, make it easier to wipe away. But it actually made the smudge spreading thinner on the surface. Now I realize that I should always apply the solution on the wipes, never on CCD filter directly?
 

stngoldberg

Well-known member
A few years ago, I was shooting a lot of nature and out of necessity having to change lenses in the field. As a result I was accumulating a lot of dust/dirt on my sensor filter. Against the advice of my dealer and after watching the video on the Phase One 2 part sensor cleaning package, I ordered the product and followed the instructions.
I caked up my sensor filter with the part A solution and could not remove the residue with part B and the wipes even after many multiple attempts. I sent the back to Hasselblad for cleaning and they returned my back perfectly clean.
To say I was relieved is a huge understatement.
I called Hasselblad in New Jersey and asked to speak to the person who had done the actual cleaning on my back.
He told me that he was trained to use the Eclipse solution, and his success rate was 100%; he further stated that he had seen some really dirty sensors which required multiple Eclipse passes.
I retained the plastic card that came with the Phase One package; my cleaning procedure today is multiple layers of the Eclipse wipe around the card.After each pass with moderate pressure at about a 30 degree angle, I relocate the wipe on the plastic card before another pass over the sensor filter.
Happy to report that this method insures an immaculate sensor filter, and I find myself cleaning the back after every outdoor use of the camera.
While Hasselblad skirts the issue, the HD5 appears to me to be more dust proof than the HD4- have no evidence of this just my impression when I took apart the demo I saw recently

Stanley
 

Rollei6008i

Member
Thank you all of you experts & digiback owners shared your precious experience , I learnt a lot.:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
 

BANKER1

Member
A few years ago, I was shooting a lot of nature and out of necessity having to change lenses in the field. As a result I was accumulating a lot of dust/dirt on my sensor filter. Against the advice of my dealer and after watching the video on the Phase One 2 part sensor cleaning package, I ordered the product and followed the instructions.
I caked up my sensor filter with the part A solution and could not remove the residue with part B and the wipes even after many multiple attempts. I sent the back to Hasselblad for cleaning and they returned my back perfectly clean.
To say I was relieved is a huge understatement.
I called Hasselblad in New Jersey and asked to speak to the person who had done the actual cleaning on my back.
He told me that he was trained to use the Eclipse solution, and his success rate was 100%; he further stated that he had seen some really dirty sensors which required multiple Eclipse passes.
I retained the plastic card that came with the Phase One package; my cleaning procedure today is multiple layers of the Eclipse wipe around the card.After each pass with moderate pressure at about a 30 degree angle, I relocate the wipe on the plastic card before another pass over the sensor filter.
Happy to report that this method insures an immaculate sensor filter, and I find myself cleaning the back after every outdoor use of the camera.
While Hasselblad skirts the issue, the HD5 appears to me to be more dust proof than the HD4- have no evidence of this just my impression when I took apart the demo I saw recently

Stanley
Stanley,

My dealer suggested the Part A and Part B solutions for cleaning the sensor on my H4D60, so I bought the package from him. After reading the various forum posts on the subject, I have never used the Part A cleaner. However, I am very, very nervous about using the plastic card. I am worried that the plastic will scratch the sensor even with the material wrapped around it. And, if a particle was caught by the card, it would scratch the IR filter. With e-wipes, the pressure of the folded material is quite sufficient for removing everything from the sensor. I still may use the plastic card and part B solution, but it will be with multiple layers of material and very gentle pressure.

So, all in all, e-wipes seem to be the answer for my sensor cleaning needs.

Greg
 

stngoldberg

Well-known member
The size of the plastic card fits the IR filter on my H4D50 perfectly, so using it with the wipe wrapped around it insures an even application of the Eclipse solvent.
I have probably used the card over 200 times without an incident.
Stanley
 

gerald.d

Well-known member
Apply as much pressure as you like, but ignore my previous post at your own peril.
Like I said earlier, if you believe the instructions from the company itself are wrong, perhaps it might be worth your while dropping them a line to suggest they change them?

A lot more people buying and using a Phase One back will see - and presumably follow the instructions of - that video than will ever read this thread.
 

goesbang

Member
Like I said earlier, if you believe the instructions from the company itself are wrong, perhaps it might be worth your while dropping them a line to suggest they change them?

A lot more people buying and using a Phase One back will see - and presumably follow the instructions of - that video than will ever read this thread.
Phase have known about the issues with Part A for many years and the feed back continues regularly. The fact is, there are some contaminants that Part A is great at removing but I need it in as few as 1 in 20 cleaning sessions. Part B is the way to go if you have the DigClean/Phase One kit. Before all these commercial products were available, most of us using MF backs were using pure medical grade alcohol without any problems. I do believe that they should provide additional advice about what contaminants part A is to be used for, but they choose not to. Personally, I have more important things to carp about. Perhaps our resident GX680 fan might like to run with this baton for a bit :deadhorse:
 

stephengilbert

Active member
I think the best method is to use Part B alone, only using Part A when B doesn't do the job. My impression is that A has detergent properties that are rarely needed, and that it's hard to remove completely.
 

jagsiva

Active member
Perhaps our resident GX680 fan might like to run with this baton for a bit :deadhorse:
Read on sensorcleanrumors.com that there is a GX680 specific blend of A&B without any contaminants, but it only works on Fuji and recently supports the D800. It is quite inexpensive, but Phase has conspired not to pick it up with the sole intention of protecting the substantial margin and revenue streams they currently enjoy in their captive Cleaning Solutions Division. They will likely spin this off as an IPO in late 2013.

On a related note, the 55LS is suffering serious sharpness issues due to Phase users using the A solution as a lens cleaner:SPAM:
 

goesbang

Member
Read on sensorcleanrumors.com that there is a GX680 specific blend of A&B without any contaminants, but it only works on Fuji and recently supports the D800. It is quite inexpensive, but Phase has conspired not to pick it up with the sole intention of protecting the substantial margin and revenue streams they currently enjoy in their captive Cleaning Solutions Division. They will likely spin this off as an IPO in late 2013.

On a related note, the 55LS is suffering serious sharpness issues due to Phase users using the A solution as a lens cleaner:SPAM:
:ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:
 

mmbma

Active member
I have a CF39 and recently got it cleaned by sending it back to Hasselblad. Cost me 450 bucks but I feel it was worth it because I haven't serviced it since I first bought it. I recommending sending it to a pro every few years for the peace of mind and also the overall check up that's included in the service.
 
I think the best method is to use Part B alone, only using Part A when B doesn't do the job. My impression is that A has detergent properties that are rarely needed, and that it's hard to remove completely.
This is my own experience. I have some streaks on my IQ160 and can't get rid of them entirely. Was going to try a different brand of solution.
 
I hate the tissues I got with my phase back and much prefer the paper tissues. The phase ones leave threads behind and streak very easily.

I'd also add that it is much better to clean the sensor often, than leave it. I presume because they can get so hot it seems to get harder and harder to clean the longer you leave it.
 
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