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HR40 and the IQ160

Don Libby

Well-known member
I had asked for opinions/feedback on how a SK35 XL would work on an IQ180. My question was answered which lead me to buy the Rodi HR40 t/s for my IQ160 as I'm not yet willing to let the IQ160 go. As good as the SK35 XL is I've found the 40 to be better. While I found I needed to use a center filter fulltime with the 35 that isn't necessary with the 40. However, there's no such thing as a free lunch. I had heard the 40 was susceptible to flare which I found out first hand today.

I was asked to share images with what might be considered extreme shifts.

If you have the time can you shift the 40mm out to 15 or 18mm? I curious to see if there is much sat or detail falloff and if the lens shows the hard corner vignetting aka the disk that shows up with the rod 35 23 and 28?
Thanks Paul Caldwell
Walking out to my rear yard this afternoon facing south with the sun located directly over the subject. I shot 3-rows beginning centered then moving 15mm right and left before raising the back 20mm and shooting the same sequence and finally lowering the back 15mm and doing it all over again for a total of 9-images. I didn't notice the flare until I got the files on the laptop so decided to reshoot just the center row using the Cambo Hood. No processing other than to convert into jpegs.




Center Row 15mm Left


Center Row Center

Center Row 15mm Right
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
The back was moved down 20mm for this row


Top Row 20mm 15mm Left

Top Row 20mm Center

Top Row 20mm 15mm Right
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
Bottom row with the back moved 15mm

15mm Down 15mm Left

15mm Down Center

15mm Down 15mm Right
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
These last show how adding a hood works to reduce/eliminate flare...


Center Row 15mm Left

Center Row Center

Center Row 15mm Right
 

gazwas

Active member
This doesn't surprise me Don.

I tested the HR40 and 43XL when I was buying and the Rodie was terrible! A white sky caused flare (ie. no sun vidible) on the lens I tested. Terrible design IMO. Amazingly sharp lens but the Schneider was much better under every condition I tested it in and only showed flare when reslly trying.
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
You hit the disk at 20mm which is not bad. The flare you have has been written about many times and the compendium should help on that.

Tks for posting
Paul Caldwell
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
Hi Don,

I have a Rodie 40 HR T/S and IQ 180.
Although I was told no CF is required, I see some light fall-off while shifting. Do you have the same experience?

Thanks,
Pramote
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
Gareth, Although I've only had the 40 for a couple days I can see that I like it a lot. While I can't speak to the design elements of the 43XL I feel the 40 is built like a tank and look forward to using it in the future. Since I routinely use the Cambo hood (just got lazy for the tests) I really don't see any disruption to my normal workflow.

Paul, I'm very pleased at the amount of movements I got this afternoon. Glad I could help.

Pramote, I wish I could answer your question better however I've only had the lens a very short time during which the sky/conditions just suck (technical term) so I've been confining my activities to my backyard. Ken Doo who also happens to have the 40 shoots with an IQ180 and would be better suited to answer the question as I still have the 160 and I'm not too sure what the major differences between the backs will cause.

The weather is supposed to get better tomorrow with mostly cloudy and a chance of rain and I hope to get out and really get to kick the tires.

Don
 

kdphotography

Well-known member
Pramote, I do see light fall-off with the HR40 and IQ180 as well, but nothing offensive, and it seems to be corrected when applying the LCC in C1 Pro 7. I do make it a habit of shooting an LCC with each composed image.

Gareth is right about flare, but I really don't think it is difficult to control as long as you are sensitive to the conditions under which flare may be a problem. A lens hood does help in those difficult situations. I just got back from Point Lobos this evening, snooping out the area prior to CI in Carmel, and did bring my camera along. Flare is definitely harder to control on the HR40 with "screw-on" type filters, and Don knows my trick about using a Singh Ray color intensifier as a polarizer type filter, but in flare prone situations, it is best left off (I reconfirmed that just now at Point Lobos). I really really really like this lens. What may scare some people is that working with a technical camera really has not slowed me down much compared to using the Phase DF, but it is definitely a much more enjoyable endeavor.

This is a sunset image at Point Lobos just a few hours earlier, shot towards the sun. Handheld Singh Ray 3 stop reverse neutral grad. Cambo, HR40, IQ180. 10mm rise. Quick work up in C1 Pro 7 and that's it.
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
Ken & Don...Thanks very much for sharing your experiences!
I've always using LCC. Once becoming a habit, it's not too bad. The light fall-off only occurs with shifting ~12.5-15 mm for stitching. It is kind of annoying but, like Ken said, it is a very good lens. I've found no problem at all using no CF with a single shot and moderate rising.

Pramote
 
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