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Thread: IQ backs and live view

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    IQ backs and live view

    Hi all -

    Something just went through my mind and I thought I'd share it here, hopefully to get some other perspectives on the subject.

    I've never once used live view with my IQ180. Not even to test it out. For me, using a digital back on anything other than my AF is such a slow and deliberate process, that taking a test shot and reviewing it is as "live" as I need.

    I believe I'm right in saying that to get the best out of live view you need to use an ND filter, and if so, putting this on and then removing it for the shot would I expect be an even slower process than shooting and adjusting?

    Am I missing something obvious here? Would anyone who uses live view as part of their process care to talk through why they find it more useful than a shoot/review/adjust/shoot approach?

    I'm keen to learn what benefits there might be to introducing the use of live view into my workflow.

    (Usage scenario is architecture/cityscapes/landscapes on a tech cam)

    Kind regards,

    Gerald.

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I am eager to read the responses of live view users. Thank you for your frank question.

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Gerald, like you , I find that for 90% of my work, shooting a frame and reviewing on the back or on a tethered lappy gives me much more useful information.
    However, there are some circumstances where I have found live-view invaluable.
    For example, when I am shooting interiors, I will sometimes place a foreground element very close to the lens and shoot wide open with the 23HR, letting the bulk of the space fall slightly out of focus. Using live-view here is faster than the other method, even though I have the Alpa HPF rings.
    Another is when using tilt with the 120Macro for still-life. Frankly, it's invaluable in this situation.
    I have a short-barrel 40HR but haven't got my tilt adapter for it yet, but I anticipate I will use live-view when tilting with this lens also.
    Cheers,
    Siebel
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Using a tech cam does change things. On the RZ I don't think I've ever tried using live view (I don't even know how so I guess that's true), however on a tech cam I use it all the time, to the point that I don't actually have a GG for my Techno (although I do think I'll get one due to a drawback I'll mention below).

    1. It works really well as I find I can get to a level of detail that my eyes simply cannot on a GG. I use an external powered firewire hub in the field to save battery (I can go all day). Having to carry additional power is a pain.
    2. Focusing on a bright day I use a cokin filter holder and some ND filters. The beauty is the ability to slide them in and out. I also have screw on variable ND filter, but it's not as flexible/quick to setup as the Cokin set.
    3. The back get's hot and you get a lot more noise. It cools down in seconds, but still an added delay. Right now it's pretty cool where I am, when we hit summer again, that's when I think I'll need the GG to do everything to avoid the heat.
    4. In the studio it works really well, but it is still not as nice as working on the laptop screen. I may consider getting my laptop into the field rather than buying a GG.
    5. It's very slow and when adjusting for movements on the techno, it can take some time, however that is offset by being extremely accurate.

    I'm just processing a image of some orchids I shot yesterday using these tools. Will post it shortly and explain how it came together using liveview

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    Re: IQ backs and live view



    Ok, so I played around with these orchids for a couple of hours. I've got another stack which I did. The great thing about the stack using liveview was that I could see exactly where the focus was going and so I worked out the increment I needed to turn the focus for each frame of the stack.

    For this image once I finally found a composition I liked, you can see the two flowers on the right are in focus. Here's what I did (in about 3 or 4 iterations):
    1. Zoom in and focus on the front flower
    2. Zoom in to the rear flower and focus using front swing
    3. Zoom out and into the front flower again back to step 1

    So it takes a little messing around and of course this shifted the comp slightly so I shifted it all back into a balanced set up.

    This is the drawback and this is what I miss about the GG is composing, not actually focusing as I think I'll always do a final tweak with liveview. But the ability to roam around the scene gives a lot of pressure in liveview, as it will stop after a certain time, it's slow to update in dark environments, it consumes power and the back gets hot. None of these are show stoppers, when but you're exploring the composition I think it adds unnecessary pressure on you and 'feels' uncomfortable.

    Hope that helps anyone considering this.

    Paul
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    pls excuse my poor grammar! It's Sunday morning, I'm off duty

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I use a tech camera for more than 99% of what I do. Actually have not touched the DF for over two years. I avoided live view for quite a while thinking it was not worth the trouble but now I use it on most every shot. Composition is a breeze with live view and the cube. Focus is also a snap in almost any scenario except obvious use of infinity focus.

    Between live view, focus mask and the user interface I find it hard to imagine my craft without it. Add the color, dynamic range and quality of files and I start sounding like a fanatic.

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I agree with Ed. It is most useful if you are planning to use tilt or swing. I use it in night shots with the techno as well (zooming in for focus).

    Amr

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by wentbackward View Post
    Using a tech cam does change things. On the RZ I don't think I've ever tried using live view (I don't even know how so I guess that's true), however on a tech cam I use it all the time, to the point that I don't actually have a GG for my Techno (although I do think I'll get one due to a drawback I'll mention below).

    1. It works really well as I find I can get to a level of detail that my eyes simply cannot on a GG. I use an external powered firewire hub in the field to save battery (I can go all day). Having to carry additional power is a pain.
    2. Focusing on a bright day I use a cokin filter holder and some ND filters. The beauty is the ability to slide them in and out. I also have screw on variable ND filter, but it's not as flexible/quick to setup as the Cokin set.
    3. The back get's hot and you get a lot more noise. It cools down in seconds, but still an added delay. Right now it's pretty cool where I am, when we hit summer again, that's when I think I'll need the GG to do everything to avoid the heat.
    4. In the studio it works really well, but it is still not as nice as working on the laptop screen. I may consider getting my laptop into the field rather than buying a GG.
    5. It's very slow and when adjusting for movements on the techno, it can take some time, however that is offset by being extremely accurate.

    I'm just processing a image of some orchids I shot yesterday using these tools. Will post it shortly and explain how it came together using liveview

    Hi Paul,

    Regarding what you said "...external powered firewire hub".
    May I ask what additional power supply do you use?

    Thanks,
    Pramote

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Agreed it is a very valuable tool for the tech cam with tilts and multiple sub-infinity subjects. One other point -- if you are shooting in dim light, like early PM or later PM or under cover of forest or trees or abandoned buildings as we often do for landscapes, you do not need the ND filter. In many daytime situations stopping down to f22 is often adequate. Bright sunlit sea or land or cityscapes, you'll want the ND filter, I reco a 6 or 7 stop IR cut ND.
    Jack
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by Landscapelover View Post
    Hi Paul,

    Regarding what you said "...external powered firewire hub".
    May I ask what additional power supply do you use?

    Thanks,
    Pramote
    Sure Pramote ... basically any firewire hub that takes a typcal 19v (or so) input can be powered from one of these external laptop batteries. Some companies sell powered cables that should also work.

    Regards
    Paul

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I honestly had not tried LV until this morning. Now that I have once again I see what Phase did to make this a great back for tech cam use, in particular t/s lens.

    There's a control button which sets the refresh rate and brightness - I'm interested in hearing what folks like Ed who shoots outdoors set these for. I've got a filter which works well just want to see what others have learned along the way for the settings.

    Don
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    As soon as you're not alone with your camera, i.e. a commercial shoot with clients and agency, stylists and assistants, having a decent live view is godsend.

    Oh how I wish for 5dmk3 like live view on a digital back....

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by wentbackward View Post
    Sure Pramote ... basically any firewire hub that takes a typcal 19v (or so) input can be powered from one of these external laptop batteries. Some companies sell powered cables that should also work.

    Regards
    Paul
    Thanks very much Paul! I will check into it. How long does the battery last for the IQ back?
    Pramote

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by Landscapelover View Post
    Thanks very much Paul! I will check into it. How long does the battery last for the IQ back?
    Pramote
    Pramote, it's really hard to say as the usage is so different to an SLR. Basically I've used the back for a few hours of extensive live view, doing some macro work and the pack perhaps moved 1 bar (or perhaps was already on the way to move 1 bar before I started). It's a lot of power!

    Some notes though, these are important ...
    1. I have a special wakeup cable (e.g. Alpa sell one) so I use normal mode. I found in zero-latency mode the back gets very hot in HK weather.
    2. With the dodgy old firewire cable I use, I keep a standard battery in the back and set the back to slow charge mode (exactly as I do with when tethered to a laptop). Basically the onboard battery remains fully charged at all times, but makes it a lot more stable.

    Warm regards from HK, Paul

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I woud be interested in the most efficient workflow using live view and the focus mask for tech cams.

    How are you all incorporating this into the flow in such a way as to speed up focusing of tech cams in particular?

    Thanks, Steve

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I agree with Steve - I'm sure that there's an efficient workflow for using live view for focusing but I've yet to find it. Composition - sure. Focus in the field - not so much.

    I tend to compose with LV if needed and then shoot / review using the focus mask feature. That's pretty easy and efficient but I'd love to work through a better process using a tilt/swing lens in the field using LV directly. I just don't find the quality of the image clear enough even using a loupe when I do it. Too much image noise interferes with my own personal ability to get the best out of this process. Maybe I'm expecting too much or just not getting the knack but I don't find it very efficient in real life out in the field yet (after 18months in fact).
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I think we all want live view to work better in the field than it does. My workflow evolves constantly, but here is how I do it currently for landscape photos. I rough compose, select lens using Viewfinder Pro on an iPad mini. I set up the camera and tune the composition using a Cube and LV with slider settings for max quality and mid brightness at iso 50. For focus, I zoom to 50% and view the IQ180 screen with prescription close up glasses under a dark cloth when necessary. I find that two eyes with medium magnification gives me the best judgement of focus although there are still surprises when viewing on a laptop or monitor at home. Generally, when light levels are low, I try to focus at f5.6. For brighter light, I use a 4" hood mounted Lee polarizer that can be removed quickly. When using tilt, I focus first on the mid-ground, then tilt and tweak understanding that my Alpa is not an axis tilt. I check foreground and background using LV at 50% to see if it is close, take a test shot and examine it closely to decide if good enough. Then I stop down to the working aperture, usually f11-13 and take the final photo. I don't use focus mask much as it is dependent on qualities other than sharpness and is often misleading. It is useful for tilts to give a subjective idea of where the focus plane is. The whole process is pretty time consuming, but usually the result is worth it. I'm all in favor of an improved LV feature and interested to learn other's techniques for dealing with what we have.
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Granted I haven't had my IQ for as long as others have and granted I just began looking at using live view yesterday however I think I see where Graham is going in his post.

    I can see where live view will be a great benefit using the tilt/shift however I really don't see it for focusing try as I may. So, using it as a composition tool should be good. My main question is the settings folks are using. So, what's some best practices you've learned; slow refresh (better image) or faster (poorer image) or can you really tell the difference.

    I've got a new filter coming later this week (3 stop) and will actually get to kick the tires some more before heading to Carmel.


    Don
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Like Don, I'd love to hear of any tips regarding the best settings. Maybe there's a combination that works best that folks can recommend as I'm totally open to the concept of operator error (ie me).
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

    As Oscar Wilde said, "my tastes are simple, I only like the best"

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    IQ series digital backs | Video tutorials

    What do you think of this method that does not use the focus mask? I assume it would work for tilt. This is about all I can find on the web.

    Doug Peterson has a more complex method that uses the mask and LV that is systematic. He would be better able to explain it than I would and maybe he will see this.

    Steve

    The video I am referring to is at the bottom of the page.

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I downloaded this from Phase One...
    Don Libby
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by scatesmd View Post
    IQ series digital backs | Video tutorials

    What do you think of this method that does not use the focus mask? I assume it would work for tilt. This is about all I can find on the web.

    Doug Peterson has a more complex method that uses the mask and LV that is systematic. He would be better able to explain it than I would and maybe he will see this.

    Steve

    The video I am referring to is at the bottom of the page.
    I don't think live view has focus mask. If it does, can someone please explain how to do that?
    Thanks,
    Bob

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I use an IQ back with an Arca Swiss tech camera for outdoor landscape work. For longer lenses (120 and a 180mm) the camera is mounted on a rail and focussed with LV. This enables close macro work with a long rear extension and is very accurate. It also dispenses with the need for the 2 separate (and bulky) rear extenders that normally are used with these lenses.

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by rga View Post
    I don't think live view has focus mask. If it does, can someone please explain how to do that?
    Thanks,
    Bob
    One or the other. Not both at the same time.

    LV in full screen or zoom mode. Shoot and review to see the focus mask.
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

    As Oscar Wilde said, "my tastes are simple, I only like the best"

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I screwed up (in a good way). I normally use a 10 stop ND to smoke water and have several in different sizes to include the one I needed for the 40 (it also fits my Mamiya 120 macro). I keep thinking I needed a 3-stop in order to use LV with the lens set to either f/22 or higher so ordered one (or at least I thought). I needed a filter 67mm however for some dumb reason ordered a 52 which I already had . So to make a long story short and to stop from making a complete fool of myself - the 52mm 3-stop filter arrived yesterday only for me to realize it's too damn small for the 40. All is not lost however as I finally put the 10-stop on went outside in a bright AZ sky and setting the f/stop at 8 and 11 found I can do LV that way. Now I have an extra filter!

    I feel I should be standing in front of the group saying Hi I'm Don and I'm a gear slut....

    Okay that's off my chest I feel much better.
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by rga View Post
    I don't think live view has focus mask. If it does, can someone please explain how to do that?
    Thanks,
    Bob
    I apologize for my imprecision in the language here. I did not mean to imply both could be used simultaneously, but rather sequentially. I am also not aware of an ability to use focus mask in live view.

    The responses in this thread imply that there isn't a set method people use with live view on the tech cams. I need to play with it more and see if I can incorporate LV into my flow better and test its limits.

    Steve

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I use focus mask to adjust tilt and distance. Then Jack changes all my settings, and then it's sharp.

    --Matt

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by MGrayson View Post
    I use focus mask to adjust tilt and distance. Then Jack changes all my settings, and then it's sharp.

    --Matt
    Hi Matt,
    Putting aside the Jack part of your comment ( ), how do you use focus mask to adjust tilt and distance? I would guess, since focus mask is not available in live view, that you take a WAG, shoot a frame to see what focus mask shows, adjust and shoot another frame, and repeat until you're satisfied?
    Thanks for any insight you can provide,
    Bob

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Bob,

    Oh, it's iterative, all right. Shoot, adjust, shoot, adjust... but that's (to me) the real strength of digital. I had great difficulty with large format film because I had no idea how the picture would turn out. With a digital back on a tech camera, I can keep adjusting until it's right. Focus mask is very good for telling you which way to turn the knob to improve matters.

    I never use live view. I also compose iteratively.

    Best,

    Matt
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by scatesmd View Post
    Doug Peterson has a more complex method that uses the mask and LV that is systematic. He would be better able to explain it than I would and maybe he will see this.
    When you break it out into words and detail every step this seems like a long/slow/tedious workflow. In reality I find it's very snappy, reliable, and almost surreally pleasurable of a process as compared to my days focusing ground glass where 1) you could not focus at shooting aperture but had to evaluate wide open or near wide-open 2) you had to specifically move the loupe to each area -- back and forth -- as you made any change.

    Step 1: Establish sharp background
    Option 1 - If the furthest important subject matter is infinity then simply set the lens to infinity*.
    Option 2 - If the furthest important subject matter is closer than infinity then use Live View to focus on it (at near shooting aperture) or use iterative Focus Mask shoot-and-compare to establish the far subject matter as ideally-sharp.

    At the end of step 1 take a moment to burn into your brain the amount of focus mask which is being indicated. Is it a few speckles, a lot of spots, a solid mass? This will be your reference for comparison in step 3.

    Step 2: Add tilt based on experience/geometry, be conservative
    There are some geometric rules of thumb (Jack can cover those) and some gut-feelings you'll develop after shooting with a certain gear combo and subject matter type. Error on the side of being conservative.

    Step 3: Adjust focus point using Step 1 as reference for background. Initially (having just increased tilt) you will have less strong an indication of the focus mask on your background than in Step 1. Adjust focus and reshoot and you'll notice the strength of focus mask on the background increases. In a few itterations your focus mask will be the same strength as in Step 1. This is the ideal placement of focus for this amount of tilt.

    Step 4: Evaluate foreground to determine if you have enough tilt
    Now that your focus is set such that (with the current amount of tilt) the background is sharp, evaluate the foreground. If it's sharp then you nailed the amount of tilt. If it's a bit soft then increase tilt (be conservative) and repeat Step 3.

    Step 5: Confirm
    The first two steps should give you very high confidence that you're sharp everywhere. However, before I break down a tripod, or otherwise call it quits I'm always going to check the image at 100% and pan around the image to important areas of subject matter.

    This process is high confidence, straight forward (if not "tactile" in the same sense as a view camera and ground glass), and can be done with a scotch in one hand. The places you can go wrong are:
    - Guesstimating too high an amount of tilt in step 2. Anyone who has over tilted on a view camera knows the response of the camera becomes unintuitive and you'll start chasing your tail. Be conservative in your initial guess and worst case you'll have to add a tad more in step 4 and repeat step 3. Which, once you've done this method a few times, only adds 10-15 seconds to your process.
    - If there are major changes in lighting between your reference shot in step 1 and your evaluation of the background in step 3 then this method falls apart. The entire process should take well under a minute once you're familiar with it, so it can definitely be used in dynamic lighting, but if lighting is changing very fast it will not work. In such cases using focus presets would be recommended.

    Watching the focus mask grow between shots, and then recede a bit if you go too far is really pleasurable for me. It takes away a lot of the guess work and allows you to be very precise rather than end up very conservative (which you must be when on a view camera and making all judgements based on wide-open viewing and guesstimations of how much you can save by stopping down). A special shout out goes to the Arca R body which makes this process even nicer since the focus mechanism is so minutely accurate that you can easily iterate in small increments and - taking note of what number you're on in one frame - easily return to the previous increment if you determine you've gone too far.

    *Which at some point in the past you've aready calibrated the offset for, shimmed, or mechanically adjusted (depending on brand of tech camera).
    Doug Peterson , Digital Transitions | Email
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Doug,
    Thank you! This is very helpful. Three questions popped into my head after reading this and I'm hoping you will have the patience to answer:
    1. Is it correct to assume that this process is to be done at the final shooting aperture?

    2. With focus mask (FM), often the background (or entire image) is too dark for FM to give a reading at, say, the 50% or even 30% level. Is going down in sensitivity OK?

    3. What kind of Scotch do you recommend?

    Thanks again for taking the time to write out this process for us,
    Bob

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    1. Yes. You can insert added confidence by doing this process 1-2 stops more open than shooting aperture. But I do not find that necessary.
    2. Absolutely. The joy of this method is that it only uses FM in a comparative, and not absolute sense. It's not a matter of the focus mask saying "this is in focus" but rather "these two images are equally sharp" in this area of the frame. Consequently the threshold setting becomes relatively unimportant; turn it up and down as needed, just don't change it mid-process.
    3. The first glass should be of good quality, especially if someone else is paying. After that the requirements drop rapidly. Do note that after 3 or so scotches your enjoyment of this methodology will quickly increase, as will your confidence in it's efficacy, but actual results may deteriorate.

    We can illustrate this process to potential tech camera users using our Remote Demo Center (screen+audio+video+file sharing). Just shoot me an email.
    Doug Peterson , Digital Transitions | Email
    Dealer for: Phase One, Mamiya Leaf, Arca-Swiss, Cambo, Eizo, Profoto
    Office: 877.367.8537. Cell: 740.707.2183
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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    When we meet I will bring a bottle of Lagavulin and the first bottle is on me!

    Thanks Doug. I will take you up on the on-line demo, but need to find a date. Looking forward to meeting you if you are ever out on the other coast :-)
    Bob

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Thank you Doug .

    Your described workflow explains very well part of my questions in the thread
    " Show us your technical camera " .
    But correct focusing , even with Focus Mask , still seems to be a bit of Trial and Error buisness .
    I could live very well with that , but my backs do Not have the Focus Mask ability . Do you have any further suggestions ?
    Regards . Jürgen .
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by jotloob View Post
    Thank you Doug .

    Your described workflow explains very well part of my questions in the thread
    " Show us your technical camera " .
    But correct focusing , even with Focus Mask , still seems to be a bit of Trial and Error buisness .
    I could live very well with that , but my backs do Not have the Focus Mask ability . Do you have any further suggestions ?
    When I had a P65+ I ended up taking a Mac Air in the field with me and shot tethered using C1 and Focus Mask within the software. Worked really well except for the added weight and electronics in the field (no studio shooting...).

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Basically to focus and tilt/swing using LV, I follow exactly the same process as I did on LF, which is procedure I here. Basically I focus a bit, tilt a bit, focus a bit, the focus and tilt are always going in the same direction, as soon as I need to go in the opposite direction, I'm focused as best as can be and then stop down.

    So the common example is something high and distant something low and close, requiring front tilt, I focus somewhere in the middle to distant, tilt forward, move focus forward (plane of focus comes back) iterate double tapping on the LV basically top (tilt), middle (focus), bottom (check).

    As for settings it depends on the scene, but generally brightness is in the middle and quality is adjusted depending on light favouring as best quality as possible. Focus, don't touch, wait for it to settle. This is the most frustrating part for GG users.

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by wentbackward View Post
    Basically to focus and tilt/swing using LV, I follow exactly the same process as I did on LF, which is procedure I here. Basically I focus a bit, tilt a bit, focus a bit, the focus and tilt are always going in the same direction, as soon as I need to go in the opposite direction, I'm focused as best as can be and then stop down.

    So the common example is something high and distant something low and close, requiring front tilt, I focus somewhere in the middle to distant, tilt forward, move focus forward (plane of focus comes back) iterate double tapping on the LV basically top (tilt), middle (focus), bottom (check).

    As for settings it depends on the scene, but generally brightness is in the middle and quality is adjusted depending on light favouring as best quality as possible. Focus, don't touch, wait for it to settle. This is the most frustrating part for GG users.
    By "focus forward" do you mean change the lens focus as if you were focusing closer to the camera?
    Thanks,
    Bob

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Thank you guys for your feedback .

    Some years ago , I have attended a LINHOF workshop at their plant .
    The main topic was focusing , tilt/swing and shift with LF cameras . All participants also received a little RODENSTOCK DOF + TILT/SHIFT calculator . A kind of pocket slide rule thing , which I found very helpful when shooting LF and focusing on GG .

    But with a GG size for a 37x49 sensor , I find it almost impossible to properly focus even when using a good loupe .

    My CFV backs have no focus mask function .
    Also , they have a FW800 connector which excludes the use of a MAC BOOK AIR . Despite that , I hate to carry a MAC BOOK with me .

    I think , all the trial and error steps would be much easier , if the tilt or swing axis would go right through the middle of the lens .
    With an ALPA , they unfortunately do not .
    That means , when you do , for example , a forward tilt , your previous focus setting for a certain object is immediately incorrect .

    Regarding all disadvantages of the suggested actions , and I can't see any advantage , make me keep my fingers away from tilt and swing operations .
    Regards . Jürgen .
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Hi Doug,

    Thank you very much for writing this method up for us. It helps a great deal,

    Steve

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Hello all:

    With IQ180 on a Contax 645, I suggest to try Capture One with Capture Pilot server running, it which complete access to images via an iPhone or iPad.

    This is mainly for tethered use.

    I shoot a test image, and view on the iPad, then check histogram, focus, etc.

    This avoids the issues of live view, such as heat and noise.

    Kind Regards,


    Jon

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by jotloob View Post
    Thank you guys for your feedback .

    Some years ago , I have attended a LINHOF workshop at their plant .
    The main topic was focusing , tilt/swing and shift with LF cameras . All participants also received a little RODENSTOCK DOF + TILT/SHIFT calculator . A kind of pocket slide rule thing , which I found very helpful when shooting LF and focusing on GG .

    But with a GG size for a 37x49 sensor , I find it almost impossible to properly focus even when using a good loupe .

    My CFV backs have no focus mask function .
    Also , they have a FW800 connector which excludes the use of a MAC BOOK AIR . Despite that , I hate to carry a MAC BOOK with me .

    I think , all the trial and error steps would be much easier , if the tilt or swing axis would go right through the middle of the lens .
    With an ALPA , they unfortunately do not .
    That means , when you do , for example , a forward tilt , your previous focus setting for a certain object is immediately incorrect .

    Regarding all disadvantages of the suggested actions , and I can't see any advantage , make me keep my fingers away from tilt and swing operations .
    Apple make a Thunderbolt to firewire 800 cable. It works on my Phase.
    Though I understand, from personal experience, the reticence to carry the Air in the field, it does fit in my pack very nicely and isn't too bad. Battery life can be an issue as the battery is fixed and I wasn't able to find an external power supply. Besides, that's just more weight.

    However, it works extremely well and if you manage your Air's power well, can last all day.

    So don't rule out T/S! It's a huge creative option to have. Just reinforcing the Dante's Inferno motto!

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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    Quote Originally Posted by jotloob View Post
    Thank you guys for your feedback .

    Some years ago , I have attended a LINHOF workshop at their plant .
    The main topic was focusing , tilt/swing and shift with LF cameras . All participants also received a little RODENSTOCK DOF + TILT/SHIFT calculator . A kind of pocket slide rule thing , which I found very helpful when shooting LF and focusing on GG .

    But with a GG size for a 37x49 sensor , I find it almost impossible to properly focus even when using a good loupe .

    My CFV backs have no focus mask function .
    Also , they have a FW800 connector which excludes the use of a MAC BOOK AIR . Despite that , I hate to carry a MAC BOOK with me .

    I think , all the trial and error steps would be much easier , if the tilt or swing axis would go right through the middle of the lens .
    With an ALPA , they unfortunately do not .
    That means , when you do , for example , a forward tilt , your previous focus setting for a certain object is immediately incorrect .

    Regarding all disadvantages of the suggested actions , and I can't see any advantage , make me keep my fingers away from tilt and swing operations .
    Apple makes a Thunderbolt to firewire 800 cable. It works on my Phase & Air.
    Though I understand, from personal experience, the reticence to carry the Air in the field, it did fit in my pack very nicely and isn't too bad. Air Battery life can be an issue as the battery is fixed and I wasn't able to find an external power supply. Besides, that's just more weight. Why I upgraded to an IQ.

    However, it works extremely well and if you manage your Air's power well, can last all day.

    So don't rule out T/S! It's a huge creative option to have. Just reinforcing the Dante's Inferno motto!

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    Re: IQ backs and live view


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    Re: IQ backs and live view

    I have been playing with this lately and works well for giving you a starting point. I then followup with a visual check similar to Doug's process with LV and focus mask.

    Tilt Calculator

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