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fat pixel digital backs

B L

Well-known member
Here is one more Dave, just to keep thread kicking, ETRS,100mm, P21,
Location: Back door.
KRawat1.jpg
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Thanks, for the Dandelion!!! Very nice and confirms my cursory review of two images I downloaded from Steve Hendrix: my impressions of the images from fat pixel backs is that the difference is in color, contrast, richness, and smoothness. These are all dependent on the processing of each image by each individual, but so far, I am pretty certain that given a fat pixel raw file, as I used this morning, the results are different in a good way, from those of newer digital backs.

Magic? Or, could it simply be aesthetically different? It is the same either way. So, given the world in which we live, we can all use a little magic, so let's stick with the term "Fat Pixel Magic"!:thumbs:

It is actually a tip of the hat for the designers of the earlier backs... my respect for them is immense.:)

Now, what could be more fun with a relatively low cost than an H body with fat pixel back? Or a V body with a.... or a... well you get the idea!
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
The two images from Steve Hendrix that I processed using my own personal protocol, are terrible quality JPEGs below. Somehow, the files just did not want to load at the usual size or resolution, but...

The first image is from the IQ180, with minimal adjustments in LR, utilizing increased White setting, lowered Highlights, and not much more than making sure the clipping was minimized and sharpness added.
Fat Pixel 3255 FINAL lo res.jpg


The second image is from the P25. Similar adjustments were made in LR (slightly less) and final adjustments including sharpening were made in PS.
Fat Pixel 6032 lo res.jpg


So, how did the images respond to my processing?

*** Note: Apologies for the low resolution images. But the differences that I see are not so much in resolution, but in color, vibrancy, richness, contrast and shadow details. Others may strongly disagree with my results and that is fine, and expected.:) My approach to evaluating how the raw images would respond to my personal workflow is certainly different from almost everyone I know:).***

Every individual has unique preferences in processing and final results.

The P25 has a charming character that I generally prefer, but then I do prefer darker images over high key. I also prefer rich colors snd contrasty images in general. In the processed P25 image, the greens are much more natural, to me, but others may prefer the yellow-greens prevalent in so many CMOS sensors these days. I personally find them unnatural and unappealing. I have the same yellow-green issues using Velvia transparency film, too.

That said, the resolution in the raw files indicates that larger prints will obviously result in larger printed images with the 80mp digital back. Nothing new there.

The images posted above were re-sized to 8x12 and the difference in resolution was not visible... until I re-sized for posting in the forum. Both images then became low resolution facsimiles. :(

It would be wonderful to see others process Steve's images using their own workflow and posting the results for discussion.

Bottom line: There is Magic! And it can be found in your images, regardless of what gear you use. How that Magic appears is up to you!:thumbup:
 

MartinN

Well-known member
So, how did the images respond to my processing?

*** Note: Apologies for the low resolution images. But the differences that I see are not so much in resolution, but in color, vibrancy, richness, contrast and shadow details. Others may strongly disagree with my results and that is fine, and expected.:) My approach to evaluating how the raw images would respond to my personal workflow is certainly different from almost everyone I know:).***

Every individual has unique preferences in processing and final results.

The P25 has a charming character that I generally prefer, but then I do prefer darker images over high key. I also prefer rich colors snd contrasty images in general. In the processed P25 image, the greens are much more natural, to me, but others may prefer the yellow-greens prevalent in so many CMOS sensors these days. I personally find them unnatural and unappealing. I have the same yellow-green issues using Velvia transparency film, too.

That said, the resolution in the raw files indicates that larger prints will obviously result in larger printed images with the 80mp digital back. Nothing new there.

The images posted above were re-sized to 8x12 and the difference in resolution was not visible... until I re-sized for posting in the forum. Both images then became low resolution facsimiles. :(

It would be wonderful to see others process Steve's images using their own workflow and posting the results for discussion.

Bottom line: There is Magic! And it can be found in your images, regardless of what gear you use. How that Magic appears is up to you!:thumbup:

This is a very nice comparison and I can clearly see the difference too. Excellent demonstration. I am heading outside with my Mamiya ZD back even though it will be rainy and the weather quite cool. No summer yet in Finland.
 

MartinN

Well-known member
I have the same yellow-green issues using Velvia transparency film, too.
There is not much choice in transparency film these days, but I prefer Velvia to Ektachrome for most nature photography. What I have problems with is that scanning without deliberate color editing can't neutralize a magenta in slide films. The blue is too strong too. The magenta cast can be corrected, but not the blues.
 

Sarnian

Member
a V body with a.... or a... well you get the idea!
I recently bought a Hasselblad 500C/M with a chrome 80mm Planar lens. I stuck my P30+ on it and was very pleasantly surprised at the micro contrast from this 30-year-old camera/lens combo. Great stuff.
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
PSon,

Sent you a PM...

Thank you for posting these. As I mentioned in the PM, it is great to see your results!:thumbup:
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Once again, I return to the Fat Pixel backs!

One of my favorite artists is Pierre Pelligrini and he does amazing work with, you guessed it! Yep, a P20+ Phase One back.

Here is an interview with him and you can follow his work via the links.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/minimalismmag.com/amp/2017/03/22/190/

My takeaway:

Whatever you use, it is the gear between your ears that makes the biggest difference!

Anyone have a Fat Pixel Back they are not using? I think it may be time to really get to know it.:):):)

Or... send it to me for exercising it once a year in care of "Dave's Ultimate Fat Spa"!:ROTFL:
 

TomTom

New member
Long exposures on a P20???

I am trying to figure out how to do long exposures on a P20 on a Hassy 553elx. There is no lens with a shutter to speak of as I am trying to use a pinhole on a 32mm extension tube.

short latency? Long latency? Wake up signal to the sync cable? Is the PhaseOne wakeup cable necessary ($100) Momentary switch or continuous switch?

I know it is an old small back but what the heck, my Hassy is getting very lonely. ~TEU
 

gufo2k20

New member
Hi all
got the opportunity to buy (at a very low price) a P1 645AF+80/2.8+Aptus 22

Knowing the pro and con's of this digital back, i think i'll go for it.
I've taken a pair of shot, just a couple of question:
- are the P1 autofocus reliable? maybe it was my fault but looks like it's not very accurate
- is a little backlash (~1mm) between the back and the camera normal (it rotate a little once installed)
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Hi all
got the opportunity to buy (at a very low price) a P1 645AF+80/2.8+Aptus 22

Knowing the pro and con's of this digital back, i think i'll go for it.
I've taken a pair of shot, just a couple of question:
- are the P1 autofocus reliable? maybe it was my fault but looks like it's not very accurate
- is a little backlash (~1mm) between the back and the camera normal (it rotate a little once installed)
Just saw this... perhaps you can get an answer from a dealer near you.

Here, I usually call Capture Integration for questions, but any Phase One dealer should be of some help.:thumbup:
 

nathantw

Well-known member
Re: Long exposures on a P20???

I am trying to figure out how to do long exposures on a P20 on a Hassy 553elx. There is no lens with a shutter to speak of as I am trying to use a pinhole on a 32mm extension tube.

short latency? Long latency? Wake up signal to the sync cable? Is the PhaseOne wakeup cable necessary ($100) Momentary switch or continuous switch?

I know it is an old small back but what the heck, my Hassy is getting very lonely. ~TEU
You probably found the answer by now, but the P20 doesn't capture for very long exposures. It wasn't until the +-models came out (i.e. P25+) that long exposures became possible.
 
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