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So, how did the images respond to my processing?
*** Note: Apologies for the low resolution images. But the differences that I see are not so much in resolution, but in color, vibrancy, richness, contrast and shadow details. Others may strongly disagree with my results and that is fine, and expected. My approach to evaluating how the raw images would respond to my personal workflow is certainly different from almost everyone I know.***
Every individual has unique preferences in processing and final results.
The P25 has a charming character that I generally prefer, but then I do prefer darker images over high key. I also prefer rich colors snd contrasty images in general. In the processed P25 image, the greens are much more natural, to me, but others may prefer the yellow-greens prevalent in so many CMOS sensors these days. I personally find them unnatural and unappealing. I have the same yellow-green issues using Velvia transparency film, too.
That said, the resolution in the raw files indicates that larger prints will obviously result in larger printed images with the 80mp digital back. Nothing new there.
The images posted above were re-sized to 8x12 and the difference in resolution was not visible... until I re-sized for posting in the forum. Both images then became low resolution facsimiles.
It would be wonderful to see others process Steve's images using their own workflow and posting the results for discussion.
Bottom line: There is Magic! And it can be found in your images, regardless of what gear you use. How that Magic appears is up to you!:thumbup:
There is not much choice in transparency film these days, but I prefer Velvia to Ektachrome for most nature photography. What I have problems with is that scanning without deliberate color editing can't neutralize a magenta in slide films. The blue is too strong too. The magenta cast can be corrected, but not the blues.I have the same yellow-green issues using Velvia transparency film, too.
I recently bought a Hasselblad 500C/M with a chrome 80mm Planar lens. I stuck my P30+ on it and was very pleasantly surprised at the micro contrast from this 30-year-old camera/lens combo. Great stuff.a V body with a.... or a... well you get the idea!
How did I miss this one?:bugeyes:Orange Devil
Hasselblad 553ELX, 120mm, Phase One P25
Just saw this... perhaps you can get an answer from a dealer near you.Hi all
got the opportunity to buy (at a very low price) a P1 645AF+80/2.8+Aptus 22
Knowing the pro and con's of this digital back, i think i'll go for it.
I've taken a pair of shot, just a couple of question:
- are the P1 autofocus reliable? maybe it was my fault but looks like it's not very accurate
- is a little backlash (~1mm) between the back and the camera normal (it rotate a little once installed)
Thank you! I actually matched the color with one of a fallen petal.How did I miss this one?:bugeyes:
Gorgeous colors and great image!
You probably found the answer by now, but the P20 doesn't capture for very long exposures. It wasn't until the +-models came out (i.e. P25+) that long exposures became possible.I am trying to figure out how to do long exposures on a P20 on a Hassy 553elx. There is no lens with a shutter to speak of as I am trying to use a pinhole on a 32mm extension tube.
short latency? Long latency? Wake up signal to the sync cable? Is the PhaseOne wakeup cable necessary ($100) Momentary switch or continuous switch?
I know it is an old small back but what the heck, my Hassy is getting very lonely. ~TEU