Landscapelover
Senior Subscriber Member
Buy Gitzo GT5532 LS + the cube and you don't need to go to the gym
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:ROTFL:Statement's that start "Graham owns..." are generally true.:ROTFL:
I was going to ask if the tripod spec summary sheet posted on this site was all from his personal collection....
Too true! Perversely I do use my 5561SGT & Cube & f-stop bag with MF gear as part of my enforced exercise regimen. Not for everyone but it works masochistically for me. :thumbup:Buy Gitzo GT5532 LS + the cube and you don't need to go to the gym
This is an oddity of that mechanism when the clamp is slightly away from the main mechanism when you try to release it. Simply push the clamp all the way closed before you go to release it. It adds no appreciable time or effort and ensures it will open every time.I have had a Cube for a few months now and am constantly astounded with the transformation it has created. Everything is just more precise, confident and controlled. A massive pleasure.
Just one problem - the clamp lever quite often sticks shut and won't let me release the camera (I have the latest version of the Cube I think). Maybe I need to make a small adjustment to the tension. But it doesn't seem to be in the actual clamping action itself but the lock/release system to begin the clamping action. Don't know if that's a clear description! What I mean is the little metal button that is used to allow the clamp to be operated seems to stick. Any suggestions?
Right!! (Lying smiley)There's no way the cube would be perfect for when I use the GX680 to shoot product shots, right? Right??!?
Or drink less wine and put the money towards an exquisit piece of equipment that will make any camera mounted on top look a million dollors!I still have a few cents left for a glass of wine... :ROTFL:
I'm happy I have never had to consider such precision adjustments. I just line things up until they look right. ;-)got out the precision levels to check a few things. used my medium precision (.005"/div/ft) fitted into the grip plate. all this shows is that the existing tubular levels are not very sensitive and are off, not to be relied upon. FYI: .005"/division/ft shows that about 1/16" rotation of the cube knob changes the level by 2 divisions, or .010" over 1 ft, so the knobs and gearing and backlash are so sensitive as to make fine adjustment tricky.
(by comparison, a typical carpenter's level (none of mine even have divisions on the vial) is about 20 times less sensitive. when my precision level has moved 5 lines, you can just detect the carpenter's level is out of level)
here is the more important finding, for my usage: the pan axis of rotation (top plate) is not square to the clamp platform. this is a primary machining relationship that cannot be altered by level adjustment. I found that the difference in a platform rotation of 180 degrees, if level at 0 degrees, was 6+ lines. It is also not so easy to fix. the effect is that if you level the camera at say your zero point of rotation and then do a pan of 180 degrees, it will not stay level.
more later