Trying a few tricks here for effect
Trying a few tricks here for effect
Jumping off the deep end on this one but kind of interesting. All done in C1 with only noise added in CS4
You know Guy, I have to say that I much prefer your images from your P25+ compared to the pre-production P65+. They have a sense of relaxed tonal transitions that just give me a visceral feeling of "ahhhhhhhhhhhh..." The examples from the P65+ always left me feeling a little on edge so-to-speak. Yes the resolution is phenomenal, but the relaxed IQ from the 9 micron pixel backs is still pretty compelling. I keep going back and forth between wanting a higher mp back (33-39) for the larger printing capabilities without uprezzing, vs. the very natural IQ of the 22 mp backs.
Do you ever uprez any of your P1 files for larger prints? If so, what are your experiences?
Oh, I really do like your experiment with the door; the vignetting and graininess from the added noise strikes a really interesting mood.
Last edited by Jeff Turner; 6th December 2008 at 18:03. Reason: adding more thoughts
Jeff Turner's Emerging Light Photography
Thanks Jeff. Interesting comment and something Jack and i have been talking about. There is something about the P25 9 micron sensor that I really like and as Jack described it , I think maybe the best description of it. Here is what we wrote to LJ saying the same thing.
Jack thinks it has something to do with inter-pixel contrast and total dynamic range. Which in effect is clarity and Jack has noticed that if he pumps up the clarity on the P45 by about 10 or 15 points and adds a little contrast ( which takes away from total dynamic range he gets a similar look) But the hard fact is the 9 micron is friendlier to most MF lenses and he thinks that is what the issue is.
I agree with his comments on this. There is something the P25 does with the clarity from the 9 micron sensor that I don't see in the 39 and 31 sensors. Simply put it has bite to the files. I tend to think this is the difference between 9 micron sensors VS the small Micron sensors.
When I do uprez i actually do that in C1 to the Raw. Many times I will go 125 percent in C1 for the larger files size than if i need more than Cs4. But i do start that process in C1 which i think it is better to uprez at the time of processing.
I'd also echo the comment that choice of lenses seems to matter with MFDBs. Great glass can be the equalizer ... we've seen what it can do on a variety of sensors. As an example, I was able to use a Mamiya 300/2.8 Apo lens on the P45+ several week's ago. When I look back at those images and compare them with shots taken with other Mamiya lenses, I can easily pull out the 300mm images in a line-up taken with that lens in comparison to other lenses. There is a richness in color and depth that is striking.
503CW with Zeiss 350/5.6CF:
Some dorking around with the 120 Macro. These are off the P45+, full image first then a crop. Maybe some camera movement or not perfectly focused OR too far from the lens center of field, but still kind of neat :
Guy and Jack, have you messed around with RAW developer? After using C1 as my primary, I decided to test out RD since I had heard that it will apparently extract a bit more detail than C1....turns out it does, RD has 4 different sharpening algorithms and I found their Richardson-Lucy Deconvolution option to be the best for sharpening without those annoying white halos appearing over the edges. I did notice a bit more CA appearing in the files when viewed at 100%, will have to do some more experimenting though. Anyone else have a similar experience?
Anyway, I took these shots in Times Square Monday night in the brisk 28 degree weather. I love going out there and candidly shooting the flow of chaos that it is; tourists, cabs, cops and bilboards. In one of these pics, you will see a confused tourist just happened to wander into my frame as I was shooting off, he actually made the photo
Very nice, Justin.
Justin I have not tried it since I got my Phase stuff but it is a great raw developer but I found the workflow slow. Not sure if the interface had changed since than but it did do a nice job on the M8 files . Chuck Jones a good friend and member is like a junkie too it. Cool shots BTW.
Here Jack is your retirement kitchen and bath on the house I picked out for ya. Really busted my butt on these, my brain was not working at full speed and man that just slow's you down. Some airbrushing left to do so this maybe not so fun but real work. Hate that.
Need a sunset in that window. I replaced 8 glass blocks already because of highlights i could not get rid of. 4 lights in each shot and 1 Elinchrom mono went down on me ,maybe flash tube blew. Turned it on and small amount of smoke,not promising.
Kitchen 4 different types of light daylight, tungsten, flash and florescent . OUCH
Faster shutter speed here and cut down the florescent some
Guy, is that the 28m? Looks good.
Yes it is , nice lens too. I really like it even though some softness in the corners sometimes but with that little corner sharpness trick it helps it some. Certainly the least expensive way to get wide is the Hassy 28mm and Mamiya 28mm every other solution to this is a tech camera or not necessarily your most popular primary camera and it gets expensive, I can't just have a tech camera the normal camera types is what i have to have for other work as well. Heck i would love a tech camera too but I need to justify that costs with the amount of use and those numbers don't completely add up , so for me this works . Plus i use this for all sorts of shooting and a tech camera get's too bulky or slow sometimes.
Talking to the missus now... She says we're at least three years away from that move (), but I'm trying to convince her we need to buy in now while the getting is good
I haven't posted in a while... But here's a cliche. I like it myself though.
For those who care... ZD back, 55mm AF lens, f/5.6, 30s exposure.
Jan, that is an AWESOME capture!!!
Sell that to the San Francisco visitors travel guides.
The parade has started through my little home studio.
Any idea how hard it is to get everyone looking in the same direction?
You need a few thingamajigs hanging on the wall behind you that they all look at. Obviously the babies are tough, so you improvise with sounds like a music box or a squeaker toy
This is the best that we could do. Cynthia was standing right next to me doing her best with all sorts of things.
The hardest part was keeping the older kid's fingers out of his nose.
Actually, they were happy with the result so I am too.
I hear you... Too bad Dad wasn't looking at you though. With babies, I usually tell the adults and older children to keep looking right at the lens since I will have to fire when the baby looks my way. Usually I get mom and dad looking at me, the older kids and baby the dice toss...
I have several with the adults looking square at me, but with the kids looking off somewhere else.
I thought the best shot had everyone in place except that the baby was squirming a bit, but this one was their pick.
These were shot tethered with a 23" LCD turned so that they could see each shot. The setup worked really well, and was one of the few times that C1 did not spontaneously go south on me. Acvtually it might have looked too easy :-)
We’re currently at the South Rim staying in a cabin at the Bright Angel Lodge. Got here late yesterday afternoon and woke to 11 degrees and slightly blowing snow by the afternoon we warmed up to 23 and snow with zero visibility; they’re calling for 8 to 12” of snow tomorrow.
This image was taken at Hopi Point this morning just as the clouds started covering the entire area. More tomorrow (with any luck). We’re here till Wednesday then heading over to Furnace Creek, Death Valley.
BTY, Cambo RS 1000 35mm lens P45+
Yeah it’s colder than all get out here!
Jan – One word – awesome image! Okay 2 words..
Don, that looks pretty darn cold. And wet. And dark. I like the way you managed to convey this. I also really like the dark earthy, wet, desert appearance.
This was with the 40mm Schneider on the Hy6.
For some reason downsizing the image seemed to destroy some detail and I might have oversharpened a bit?
Dont know if its worth posting but I do anyways
Tom for the web only do very light capture sharpening. Jacks web converter is also very handy that you can buy here. Contact Jack on that
Another thing to do if you are using photoshop is to make sure your intended size is a divisor of the original file size...that way it can get rid of pixels evenly. So if the original file size was 4000x3000, then 800x600 etc. It could be my imagination, but when doing it that way they seem to look better to me. And only sharpen once you are at the small size. I don't capture sharpen unless I am planning on printing.
Contax 645 with Sinarback 54M
this is with less sharpening.
Thanks Jan and David for the kind words.
Took this at Bright Angel Overlook stacking three images at various focal lengths. We got about 12” snow last night with more coming; decided not to go to Death Valley and extending our stay here instead. Cambo RS 1000 35mm lens and P45+ back.
Don, I like that indeed,
Did you use Helicon of PS or something else in the stacking?
Great shots! Don... if you want to head to GA or FL .. it is about 70 degrees here! It's not quite the holiday feel, but it is supposed to dip a bit next week.
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Evgeny, I really like your shot. Reminds me a bit of both Bond and Kill Bill.
Carsten - Website
We’ve got hit with at least another foot of snow today.
FYI - We posted a couple images as well as 2 very shot videos on our blog
We should be back home in Tucson Friday.
ZD; 55mm lens @ f/5.6. Five exposures. Just having fun with this.
I'm over at the coast with my family for a few days and grabbed this shot with a pinhole lens I made for my Mamiya AFD. I estimate it is about a 70mm focal length and f200. This exposure was 15 seconds in early AM light using my P45+.
The resolution. the DOF, the je'ne sais quoi!
You might consider re-shooting it with a softar for effect?
Okay... Since that one went over so well, how about this one?