The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Fun with MF images - ARCHIVED - FOR VIEWING ONLY

Status
Not open for further replies.

djonesii

Workshop Member
A few more with the ZD .....






All studio lighting, AB800s, strip softbox, I think both were with the 150mm ( could be wrong though )

As usual, C&C welcome ....

and if you want to look at the set, drop a mail to djonesii at yahoo dot com

Dave
 

SergeiR

New member
So.. normal people when they cant sleep - they drink milk, or whisky and falling back.. Me - fat chance. I figured i may as well try to play with idea for lighting shot that i had for a week now.

Leaf 54s + RZ67 IID + 140 Macro

 

mediumcool

Active member
So.. normal people when they cant sleep - they drink milk, or whisky and falling back.. Me - fat chance. I figured i may as well try to play with idea for lighting shot that i had for a week now.

Leaf 54s + RZ67 IID + 140 Macro

Been thinking lately of getting an old RB and a 140mm to use with my Aptus 22 — looks very compatible. No weird fringing?

Had a 140mm many years ago; great lens.
 

SergeiR

New member
Been thinking lately of getting an old RB and a 140mm to use with my Aptus 22 — looks very compatible. No weird fringing?
Nothing that i would notice, but then i use RZ glass, so i am not sure how RB one will hold.

But then i am not good at pixel peeping :) as long as it looks ok full-screen on 24 inch monitor - its good for me - i.e i know that print of same size will look ok. So unless there is need to print rather large poster/plaque - i never even bother to check closely - too lazy, plus i believe this is what publisher/designer should do anyway ;)
 

SergeiR

New member
Unfortunately, I get to be the designer with most of my photographs! :eek:
Thats what Capture One is for ;) But seriously though - i did some shots with contra-light, like bright gray sky and branches - cant really say i seen much of aberrations. Biggest problem is - whole MF design isnt great to handle light when it goes under weird angle towards camera axis - so you may (and will) get some side-shadows if you go for it. But it is common dSLR issue ;) I seen it on Nikon, i seen it on Canon.. i seen it on Aptus with 645 body and with RZ body. So its nothing new. For everything else - its great, very sharp, very detailed combo. As long as you not forgetting to blow off dust ;)))
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
A few more with the ZD .....






All studio lighting, AB800s, strip softbox, I think both were with the 150mm ( could be wrong though )

As usual, C&C welcome ....

and if you want to look at the set, drop a mail to djonesii at yahoo dot com

Dave
Super shots. The Zd is capable of great work - in the right hands :D

Quentin
 

dick

New member
i did some shots with contra-light, like bright gray sky and branches - cant really say i seen much of aberrations. Biggest problem is - whole MF design isnt great to handle light when it goes under weird angle towards camera axis - so you may (and will) get some side-shadows if you go for it. But it is common dSLR issue ;) I seen it on Nikon, i seen it on Canon.. i seen it on Aptus with 645 body and with RZ body. So its nothing new. For everything else - its great, very sharp, very detailed combo. As long as you not forgetting to blow off dust ;)))
Do you mean that it is an SLR issue, due to the crappy retro-focus lenses they are forced to make when the focal length of the lens is not much more than the depth of the mirror-box?

The simple solution is to use a "proper" mirror-free professional camera (AKA technical or view camera) with "normal" rather than retro-focus lenses - try some Schneider Apo-Digitars (the non-retro-focus ones).
 

SergeiR

New member
Do you mean that it is an SLR issue, due to the crappy retro-focus lenses they are forced to make when the focal length of the lens is not much more than the depth of the mirror-box?

The simple solution is to use a "proper" mirror-free professional camera (AKA technical or view camera) with "normal" rather than retro-focus lenses - try some Schneider Apo-Digitars (the non-retro-focus ones).

Nope - has nothing to do with mirror in or out, actually. This is effect of light coming into chamber and rebouncing off the surface of sensor's filter (even thin one). Never used to happen with film b/c of matte surface.

Result is funny horizontal or vertical semi-shadowed section (about 1/10 width of overall frame direction) on overwise clear and nice shot. First time you freak out that this is something wrong with shutter, and then you realizing its not.

All SLRs prone to it - no matter what format - 4/3 or dMF. Never tried it on mirorrless camera, but then i rarely want to really reproduce it :))
 

SergeiR

New member
]
I'm finding that is one of the biggest hurdles that I have to overcome. I'm used to going for a couple of weeks to a month before I need to clean my DSLRs. This every time I pull the back out routine is not there yet.
Hah.. i didnt have to do that in YEARS with Olympus gear. Even after shooting on dusty backroads of Colorado. This is one of things i greatly miss about E- system - dust cleaning that really works (unlike all the others, i am sorry - my D700 is nowhere to come close to that).

However this is entirely different topic.

And on MFdb great part of detachable back - you can easily clean buggers. Unfortunately they gather dust equally well if you switching lenses often.
 

SergeiR

New member
Damn be BBC America and iTunes - can we have Dr Who episodes updated more often? Oh and can we have David Tennant back? I miss him.



On a bit more serious note, seeing that we going into portrait zone now..



Aptus 54s + RZ67 IID
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top