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Fun with MF images - ARCHIVED - FOR VIEWING ONLY

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dick

New member
Graham... (Doug and Thierry H Alpha)

Can you re-focus the camera without touching it, or do you have to use a 10kg tripod to make sure it does not move between shots, or do yo use manual or auto re-align?

Are there any option for tilt?

T/S lens?

T/S adapter?

bellows camera?

I am planning to make/modify a 35mm recessed P3 board for my 47XL to give me maximum movement.

Ah, if it were only so ... it's a focus stack of 4 shots from 5ft to the horizon. All 35mm at f/11 though! ;)

With the SK 35 I can get from 10ft to infinity at pixel peeping quality. For a print it's a lot less sensitive, especially since I'm scaling down with the IQ160 to fit the paper. Had I used my P25+ though it would have been as Thierry described as in from my toes to infinity pretty much. :thumbup:

I'm so quick at this these days that I'm not sure that a tilt would have been 'better' although obviously it would have saved on the CPU and disk storage of the intermediary images and the helicon focus stack.

Oh btw, it's not sharpened beyond the initial default capture sharpening in C1 Pro and remains tack sharp in the full 100% scale image ... now THAT impresses me with the Schneider technical glass.
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
Graham... (Doug and T H)

Can you re-focus the camera without touching it, or do you have to use a 10kg tripod to make sure it does not move between shots, or do yo use manual or auto re-align?
No - you have to touch the camera which always can introduce some movement between the images. Yes I do have a big sturdy tripod & head to minimize the impact of this. With the technical camera you also have to factor in the re-cocking of the shutter too.

In addition to the above, moving the focus point also introduces an apparent slight zoom as you go out towards infinity. Be aware also if you are shooting beyond 1s that your exposure will also be slightly different as it's manually set.

Helicon Focus adjusts for all of these movement, focus shift, and slight exposure changes between images automatically and you can tune the parameters for this.

Are there any option for tilt?
T/S lens?
T/S adapter?
bellows camera?
It depends on the technical camera manufacturer. Alpa offer a T/S adapter for 80mm+ lenses. Arca/Cambo offer wider T/S options. It's really only with the advent of live view with the IQ series that T/S has become practical. - you can of course shoot/review approach instead.
 

dick

New member
It's really only with the advent of live view with the IQ series that T/S has become practical. - you can of course shoot/review approach instead.
Thanks, Graham.

Does the IQ live view work in bright sunlight without an ND filter?

I think live video on the Hasselblad only works in subdued lighting, and the Sinar Liquid crystal shutter system does work.

For various reasons I hope to get a set of eShutters, and might use them with stackshot (on the rear standard for landscape).
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
I have yet to master when live view works well on the IQ to be honest. In many situations I've tried there hasn't been enough light and so you get little more than a noise image. If it is too bright then it'll similarly blow out completely. I rarely get the Goldilocks moment personally but others seem to do better.
 
D

Deleted member 7792

Guest
Another from Death Valley - Dante's View Panoramic

IQ160 Alpa STC 35 XL Digitar 1/15s f/11 - 2x 10mm shift stitch.
Graham,

This image and the one of Badwater (?) are stunning and excellent examples of what is possible with MFD in the right hands. Death Valley is "other-worldly" and you've successfully illustrated that description. Thanks for sharing your work and how you accomplished the images.
 

Thierry

New member
Graham... (Doug and Thierry H Alpha)
Can you re-focus the camera without touching it, or do you have to use a 10kg tripod to make sure it does not move between shots, or do yo use manual or auto re-align?
As Graham already said, you need to re-focus on the lens, thus touching the camera. But I don't see this as an issue, when one works in an organized manner and step by step. I am sure Graham is used to it and does the necessary images for is stacking in a few seconds.

T/S adapter?
Yes, there is a Tilt/Swing adapter for the Alpa cameras, actually 2 different:

ALPA 0-6° (12°) tilt/swing adapter, multi-use

and the +/- 12°:

ALPA 0-12° (24°) tilt/swing adapter, multi-use

For use at infinity, the +/- 6° adapter is more than enough.

Best regards
Thierry
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
I'm calling this one "After the Fall"... IQ180, DF, SK 120 T/S at dusk...60 seconds at F something or other on a cube. gitzo carbon... knocked about in LR, Silver Effex and so on. Bit of fun with a somewhat flawed original file..

 

jlm

Workshop Member
please don't take this the wrong way, as i like your image, but what does a 180 back and schneider lens bring to the table here? obviously, you are making use of tilt to narrow the plane of focus.

sometimes this question begs to be asked
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
please don't take this the wrong way, as i like your image, but what does a 180 back and schneider lens bring to the table here? obviously, you are making use of tilt to narrow the plane of focus.

sometimes this question begs to be asked
i don't take it badly at all!

In fact the shot was taken with the reasonably succesful intention of using tilt so as to get the whole fallen tree in focus from near to far... and it made quite a boring shot, though one which in a very minor way showed off the possibilities of advanced gear and technique. But then I saw the possibility of another image in it, which I found more interesting, so I set out to find it. I wouldn't make any claims for it other than that it was an enjoyable process and, possibly, that it demonstrates my conviction that getting everything in focus at 80mp isn't the only game in town!

:)
 
S

Shelby Lewis

Guest
please don't take this the wrong way, as i like your image, but what does a 180 back and schneider lens bring to the table here?
well... for one... had his "happy accident" been even "happier", it could have been printed 10 feet wide, lol :D
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Tim,

Glad you are having fun with the new TS! You keep referring to it as a "150" but I was under the impression the T/S is a 120 while the new LS (Leaf Shutter) lens is a 150 -- or is there a new 150 T/S lens I don't know about???
 

Shashin

Well-known member
I'm calling this one "After the Fall"... IQ180, DF, SK 120 T/S at dusk...60 seconds at F something or other on a cube. gitzo carbon... knocked about in LR, Silver Effex and so on. Bit of fun with a somewhat flawed original file..

I really love the baby's face and outstretched arms...
 

Smoothjazz

Active member
With the focus stitching in the Helicon program, I had one question; how do you know how many focal planes to use in a photograph? How do you know where one focus plane ends and another starts accurately?
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
With the focus stitching in the Helicon program, I had one question; how do you know how many focal planes to use in a photograph? How do you know where one focus plane ends and another starts accurately?
It depends ... if you want to be super accurate then you can gather from standard DoF calculations what range of distances will be sharp enough for your chosen f-stop and use them. The reality is that you know what ranges you need based on experience.

In some situations you really only need to worry about the main scene components that need to be sharp. For example, I often only need to set the focus for the foreground objects, maybe optionally for a midground and then a distant shot to pick up background elements and infinity. It really depends on the scene and also the lens/f-stop you're using too.

It's really pretty easy and takes longer to describe than do for landscape type of shooting. For macro work I'm sure that you need to be more scientific about it. Helicon does all of the masking for you anyway although sometimes you may want to go in and override the automated masks and brush in important elements - an example of that would be when the automated depth merge messes up foliage that may have moved.
 

tashley

Subscriber Member
Sorry Jack, my bad... It is indeed the 120... I'm not very smart! :cry:

I can't edit the title of the thread I started about it... can you? So that it comes up if people run a search looking for information.. Thanks in advance if you can..

Tim,

Glad you are having fun with the new TS! You keep referring to it as a "150" but I was under the impression the T/S is a 120 while the new LS (Leaf Shutter) lens is a 150 -- or is there a new 150 T/S lens I don't know about???
 

dick

New member
As Graham already said, you need to re-focus on the lens, thus touching the camera.
Thierry
Thanks Thierry.

It would be logical to have focus staking built in to MFDSLRs, (I think the HY6 had it, but it might involve redesigning the lenses to feed-back the focus distance to the electronics.) You can remotely focus a Hasselblad from a laptop, but you would have to do something awkward like manually selecting a different part of the subject to focus on for each picture... this would work in an avenue or where there were street lights, or in a multi-bay building like a cathedral.
 

Thierry

New member
You're welcome, Dick.

The hy6 has effectively the automatic focus staking possibility. As well, one can control the Hy6 remotely from the computer, on the software level, by focusing in very small increments.

Best
Thierry

Thanks Thierry.

It would be logical to have focus staking built in to MFDSLRs, (I think the HY6 had it, but it might involve redesigning the lenses to feed-back the focus distance to the electronics.) You can remotely focus a Hasselblad from a laptop, but you would have to do something awkward like manually selecting a different part of the subject to focus on for each picture... this would work in an avenue or where there were street lights, or in a multi-bay building like a cathedral.
 

hcubell

Well-known member
It's really pretty easy and takes longer to describe than do for landscape type of shooting. For macro work I'm sure that you need to be more scientific about it. Helicon does all of the masking for you anyway although sometimes you may want to go in and override the automated masks and brush in important elements - an example of that would be when the automated depth merge messes up foliage that may have moved.
Unfortunately, the retouching functions in Helicon Focus do not currently work with the 16 bit files from the 60 and 80 mp backs.
 

cunim

Well-known member
Unfortunately, the retouching functions in Helicon Focus do not currently work with the 16 bit files from the 60 and 80 mp backs.
Helicon tells me that V5.2.11 works with the IQ180 test set I sent them some time ago. It is working for me, but with the odd problem. The "check for updates" function did not recognize this version a few weeks ago (had to download it manually), but does now.

Peter
 
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