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Fun with MF images - ARCHIVED - FOR VIEWING ONLY

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vieri

vieri

Well-known member
Sunset in the river Po's Delta

Strong nature and human ingenuity characterise the lagoons of the river Po's Delta in Italy. Here is a "Casone", a typical construction in Comacchio's lagoons to keep an eye on pirate fishermen. A 3-seconds exposure taken almost three years ago at sunset with Leica S (007), Leica 30-90mm Vario-Elmar-S and, as always, my Formatt-Hitech Firecrest filters.



Thank you for viewing, best regards

Vieri
 
vieri

vieri

Well-known member
Bugleone said:
Vieri,.......Can you give us a quick word on what filters and why please?
Click to expand...
Sure thing - Grad ND to balance the exposure (I was shooting against the sun) and a mild ND to bring exposure down to 3 seconds. Hope this helps! :)

Best regards,

Vieri
 
Bugleone

Bugleone

Well-known member
.......Thank you!.......Why mild ND?..surely you would like to keep exposure time as short as possible(?) to avoid any movement of set-up.....
 
vieri

vieri

Well-known member
Bugleone said:
.......Thank you!.......Why mild ND?..surely you would like to keep exposure time as short as possible(?) to avoid any movement of set-up.....
Click to expand...
Why would I, and why would it? Camera is on a tripod, so no problem with movement etc. :) Best regards,

Vieri
 
Ed Hurst

Ed Hurst

Well-known member
Bugleone said:
.......Thank you!.......Why mild ND?..surely you would like to keep exposure time as short as possible(?) to avoid any movement of set-up.....
Click to expand...
Given that the tripod keeps the camera still, it's done to achieve blurred water or clouds (which are going to be in motion). 3 seconds isn't going to create that overtly "steamy" effect of a very long exposure, but it is enough (with water anyway) to create a smoother area rather than sharply defined waves.
 
vieri

vieri

Well-known member
Ed Hurst said:
Given that the tripod keeps the camera still, it's done to achieve blurred water or clouds (which are going to be in motion). 3 seconds isn't going to create that overtly "steamy" effect of a very long exposure, but it is enough (with water anyway) to create a smoother area rather than sharply defined waves.
Click to expand...
In particular, in this case I wasn't interested in having a completely silky water, because that would have left me with a large area with no texture on the bottom left of the frame; all I needed was an exposure long enough to take away the "choppy", short waves of the lagoon, which were - in my opinion - a bit ugly. Hence the mild ND, rather than a strong one or no ND at all :) Hope this helps!

Best regards,

Vieri
 
MGrayson

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
vieri said:
Why would I, and why would it? Camera is on a tripod, so no problem with movement etc. :) Best regards,

Vieri
Click to expand...
Vieri,

Beautiful picture! If a three second exposure would do that for me every time, I'd never shoot any other way. Getting a bit :OT:, but do you use the polarizer in your filter stack? It's difficult to switch in and out in some systems, and causes odd blue skies with very wide lenses.

Thank you,

Matt
 
vieri

vieri

Well-known member
MGrayson said:
Vieri,

Beautiful picture! If a three second exposure would do that for me every time, I'd never shoot any other way. Getting a bit :OT:, but do you use the polarizer in your filter stack? It's difficult to switch in and out in some systems, and causes odd blue skies with very wide lenses.

Thank you,

Matt
Click to expand...
Hey Matt,

thank you very much for your comment, I am glad you enjoyed it! :) About your question, as you know I use the Formatt-Hitech Firecrest adapter, which has a built-in polariser in the adapter ring, the one that screws on the lens (not, like the old school Lee system, in front of the whole stack). However, Formatt-Hitech also sells adapter rings without a polariser, which are also very affordable. So, what I do is:

- Have a ring permanently attached to every lens I own;
- In particular, I use a polariser-free ring to my 21, 30 and 45mm XCD lenses;
- For my 90mm and 135mm XCD, I use a polariser-with ring;

In the rare cases where I need polarisation with wide-angle lenses, such as if I have wet stones / leaves which I need to polarise and at the same time I am in the forest with no sky visible, or under a cloudy sky with no blue in sight so to avoid the dreaded "black blob of death" caused by polarising a wide-angle lens against a blue sky, then I replace the polariser-free ring with one of the polariser-with ones and I am done.

For the shot here, with the 30-90mm Leica lens I never used a polariser - too fiddly. Hope this helps! :)

Best regards,

Vieri
 
Ed Hurst

Ed Hurst

Well-known member
The final post from my recent trip (apologies if it's getting too much!).

I always intended to do some of the Grand Canyon in Black & White. I found the medium suited different pictures compared to a colour rendition - the views that are all about texture and tones. The colourful ones didn't translate (as mentioned in a post from yesterday).

So here are the ones shot for B&W:

Pentax 645Z with 28-45mm lens (@45mm)
[/url]IMGP4614_Step7sRGBSMALL by Ed Hurst, on Flickr[/IMG]

With 150mm FA lens
[/url]IMGP4665_Step5sRGBSMALL by Ed Hurst, on Flickr[/IMG]

With 90mm DFA lens
[/url]IMGP4617_Step5sRGBSMALL by Ed Hurst, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
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