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C1 Pro - LCC Tips

jagsiva

Active member
Just some observations, appreciate if others can confirm this:

1. When an image and corresponding LCC has hit the dark edge of the image circle, it appears that creating the LCC has some strange effects. Specifically, I see banding and exposure anomalies in the processed LCC frame. What I have noticed is that if I crop the RAW LCC frame before creating the LCC, it processes a nice smooth LCC frame. I would normally crop the dark corners in he final image anyway, so no net loss.

2. Clarity/Structure - When using clarity/structure in "Punch" mode on LCC processed images, some of the colour casts appear to come back. Alternatively, if clarity/structure is applied in "neutral" mode, this does not appear to be the case

3. I typically have WB set for daylight for all my landscape shots. I have noticed that when processing the LCC, especially in low light conditions where a longer LCC exposure is needed, the final LCC tends towards the cooler side for WB. If I white balance the LCC frame after it is processed, but before I apply it to the image file, I get pretty good results. This normal process would be to apply the LCC and then white balance the processed image.

Just want to confirm that these are valid assumptions and workarounds. Any thoughts from others would be very helpful and much appreciated.

Cheers!
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
Hello:

Interesting observations. I was a bit confused on your no1.

Once you crop the LCC, do you apply the cropped LCC to the full sized raw (image file) or do you crop the image file also? If the cropped LCC works on a full sized image file that's good to know.

I have often seen banding in my shifted LCC's vertical red lines. These tend to show up on extreme shifts, with the 40mm Rod and sometimes on the 60mm Schneider. However so far the appropriate LCC from that shift takes out the vertical banding.

On number 2, I have noticed the color cast coming back into corners at times especially on the 40mm Rodenstock, enough that I have had to take a finished image into LR to use the color tools there to correct. Capture One will not allow multiple layers to overlap and have color corrections, which is something I would love to see, as you can do it in LR. I will check to see of the clarity setting is at punch on some of the more problematic images.

On the WB, I also use Daylight on the back, (not sure why as Capture One always defaults to flash), and with the LCC I have started using the WB tool to correct them, and also apply that WB to the corresponding image file as a starting WB. Seems to help out at times. Problem for me is the fact that in longer daylight shots into or around bright sun the LCC takes on a very yellow cast at times, happens for me in shade also. Tends to happen when I am using both a CL-PL and ND in front of the lens. The image doesn't take on the same cast, but the LCC sure does. Here using the WB tool on the LCC really makes a big difference to me as it gives the final LCC a much more neutral look.

This is on IQ160 and 260 files mainly.

Paul C.
 

jagsiva

Active member
Interesting observations. I was a bit confused on your no1.

Once you crop the LCC, do you apply the cropped LCC to the full sized raw (image file) or do you crop the image file also? If the cropped LCC works on a full sized image file that's good to know.
I should have been clearer. I crop the LCC file before creating LCC. I then apply the same crop to the image file. Following this, I apply the LCC to the image file. So the LCC area and the Image file Area are exactly the same.

On number 2, I have noticed the color cast coming back into corners at times especially on the 40mm Rodenstock, enough that I have had to take a finished image into LR to use the color tools there to correct. Capture One will not allow multiple layers to overlap and have color corrections, which is something I would love to see, as you can do it in LR. I will check to see of the clarity setting is at punch on some of the more problematic images.
I have never tried to do this in LR or PS. I prefer to keep everything in C1 as much as possible....I do as little PP as I can get away with :) But the "Neutral" did make a big difference compared to "Punch"

the WB, I also use Daylight on the back, (not sure why as Capture One always defaults to flash), and with the LCC I have started using the WB tool to correct them, and also apply that WB to the corresponding image file as a starting WB. Seems to help out at times. Problem for me is the fact that in longer daylight shots into or around bright sun the LCC takes on a very yellow cast at times, happens for me in shade also. Tends to happen when I am using both a CL-PL and ND in front of the lens. The image doesn't take on the same cast, but the LCC sure does. Here using the WB tool on the LCC really makes a big difference to me as it gives the final LCC a much more neutral look.
Yes, it does appear to make a significant difference when WB is applied to the LCC and fine tuning is done in the post-LCC image file. As you say, CPL makes this much worse.

On ND's, I remove the ND for LCC capture. Firstly, I am using the LCC for exposure control and not image/lens enhancements. Secondly, with the ND, a two stop increase in LCC time would turn me into a snowman; and thirdly and most important, ND's tend to introduce their own colour casts so having them off for the LCC frame allows for this to be corrected. Again, my experience, others may feel differently.
 

alajuela

Active member
Just some observations, appreciate if others can confirm this:


2. Clarity/Structure - When using clarity/structure in "Punch" mode on LCC processed images, some of the colour casts appear to come back. Alternatively, if clarity/structure is applied in "neutral" mode, this does not appear to be the case
Hi

Can not add to points 1 and 3.

I believe the difference in the clarity methods, is that "Punch" increases local saturation and luminosity , while "Neutral" does not - only works on the luminosity - much like midtone contrast.

Thanks

Phil
 

jagsiva

Active member
Hi

Can not add to points 1 and 3.

I believe the difference in the clarity methods, is that "Punch" increases local saturation and luminosity , while "Neutral" does not - only works on the luminosity - much like midtone contrast.

Thanks

Phil
Thanks Phil. That makes perfect sense. I should crack open that C1 manual sometime soon, been on in C1 v2 so about time :)
 
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