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Thread: Considering the HY6

  1. #51
    Senior Member EH21's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Quote Originally Posted by Rollei6008i View Post
    I have a question about the ' Focus sensor setting " in Hy6 mod2 , -- Full , Medium & small , according to the manual, it is 70px , 50px & 30 px respectively. But, is there any indications which area(s) that I pointed to for the focusing reference points ? ( or , only in the middle of the focusing screen).

    Will Hy6mod2 producing a better contrast screen such like Hasselblad's eariler optical fiber screen(which heard about that is produced by oem minolta) ? It really helpful for better manual focusing.

    Hi,
    Regarding the screens. The Hasselblad acute matte screen was a design from Minolta where they used hexagonal cells sandwiched together. This meant no dead space and more transmitted light. There wasn't more contrast though it was brighter. I've tested some of these Minolta patent screens as they are sometimes referred to in my focus tests and think the High D screen now or the Bill Maxwell screens yield more accurate focusing. I found with the acute matte screens that you'd think you were in focus and then you'd move the knob and not be sure - it didn't just pop in to focus at one spot. I know these are 'legendary' in the Hasselblad lore, but I found them to not live up to the expectations other than brightness. Maxwell screens and High D screens were the only two screens at the top. Actually the ground glass screens have the most contrast of them all, but are not as bright and are dark in the corners. I've been meaning to experiment with a fresnel over the ground glass screens and have asked Steve Hopf to grind me a very thin borosilicate screen such that both the fresnel and screen could fit.

    Overall the matte screens are better than the split prism screens for manual focusing.

    I find that using the lupe finder the best for manual focusing, followed by the 45 degree prism.

    Focus spot size setting in the options menu affects the size of the active area, not the location on the screen. I usually keep mine set to small.

  2. #52
    Member Rollei6008i's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Eric,

    Thank you that you are always replied in details , simply speaking, the focus sensor set to small is more precisely ? The focus reference area is in the middle of the screen ?

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Yes its in the center. Don't know about more precisely, but small works well.

  4. #54
    Senior Member EH21's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Regarding the focus spot size question: I have only experimented with this, not been provided any special information from the factory, though I will ask next time I have a chance. My experience is that the size makes a difference in how the AF works. For example if you set focus spot to small you can focus on the persons eyes, but if you set it to large it may focus on the outline of the head. It seems like the larger spot setting is better for low light or landscape kinds of shooting, but there are some times when it makes sense to use it for portraits. Here's one - shooting portraits of people with glasses. You try to focus on the eyes, but get the face of the glasses. Using the larger spot size catches the outline of the head which works out to be in the plane of the eyes. That's my experience anyhow.

    I will have to ask the DWH engineers what they recommend and when one setting is preferred over another or if there any advantages such as faster focus speed with the larger spot. But in the mean time, I encourage you to try it out.

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Interesting you mention this Eric, it seems consistent with my findings. I also find if trying to focus on very thin subjects like wires it likes to back focus. I'm using the small size all the time now but may have to revisit larger sizes since you mentioned they may be better for low light.
    I actually have an email from DHW where I asked what the 30/50/70 pixel measurements represent and what AF locks on to with this response:

    "30/50/70 pixels is a linear area.
    full scale is the ring on the screen.
    Normaly the AF use the nearest object, but if the nearest object is out of 30 or 50 pixels than
    The AF thy to find a better target."

    Again this seems consistent with actual behavior.


    Quote Originally Posted by EH21 View Post
    I find that using the lupe finder the best for manual focusing, followed by the 45 degree prism.
    Here by lupe you mean the actual loupe and not WLF? That would imply the 45 prism is better than the WLF, which is interesting.

  6. #56
    Member Rollei6008i's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    This is an interest tropic , I found that when I use small for taking lanscape , the in focus display > F< is diffcult to appear , I need to set at full or medium for landscape in order to obtain > F < .

    That is why I ask this question for better focusing action.

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    Senior Member EH21's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkoRepse View Post
    Here by lupe you mean the actual loupe and not WLF? That would imply the 45 prism is better than the WLF, which is interesting.
    There are a lot of variables here, so what works for me may not for others, but in general I find the lupe finder the most accurate for me and next the 45 degree prism finder. I do use the WLF, but mostly when I want to travel light or compact. I find the WLF hard to use without my glasses which I hate to wear - others with good vision may like it better. I know many people who prefer the WLF or the 90 deg finder, so this goes as much to personal vision and preference than anything. The lupe finder is adjustable for diopter correction and has a 3x magnification and a very larger viewfinder.

    In general I like the shooting position of the 45 degree finder as well as camera position. The 45 prism gives you a non-reversed image too which is nice. The lupe is very close to the 45 in terms of camera position and also is lighter weight. Quite honestly the lupe base for the Hy6 is very expensive, but I do think its worth it.

    The great thing is that DHW offers so many finder options for the camera.

    Also worth noting - I've adapted the dioptrx (astigmatic correction) to fit the Hy6 and 6008AF 45 degree prisms and this also fits the lupe too.

  8. #58
    Member Rollei6008i's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    For me, I have both 45 & 90 degree finder as well WLF , I always use 45 finder as it is better holding camera & not lateral inverse the image when shooting active subject .

    When in a few occasions , 90 finder give me eye level where are more easily viewing thru .

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    I got a 45 prism recently, interestingly enough I find it the most difficult to focus! I can see your point, however, if you require additional corrections. The problem it seems is the size, it is clearly the least magnified of all. The view is nice though, a proper prism, but I find I still prefer the 90, despite it being somewhat difficult to view through being very susceptible to viewing angle. The size (and personally I prefer the positioning) makes up for it. Of these three the I find the WLF best for focusing, and the 90 isn't that far behind actually. I'd really like a 90 *prism* finder the size of the current one! If anyone is interested I'll be selling the 45.

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    I like the WLF, and I got a 90 dgree from a deal that I couldn't pass on.

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Started with WLF, and over time, have come to enjoy the 45, probably for the lack of distractions. But the WLF is great for travel, and easy to change as well.

  12. #62
    Senior Member EH21's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    The 90 degree view finder does have the highest magnification 3.4x and is lighter weight than the 45 degree prism.
    The 45 degree prism has 2.5x magnification and the lupe finder has 3x. Both the 90 deg and lupe finder have adjustable diopter correction, while the 45 degree prism requires corrective diopters fitted - though they are available for order.

    I'm actually not sure of the power in the pop up magnifier in the WLF, but it may be the highest of all.

    The 45 degree prism is the only finder that corrects for the L/R mirroring which is handy.

    Marko, long ago the company offered a 90 degree prism finder for the 6000 series cameras. I probably have two of these in my used gear collection. I'll ask the factory if they can fit one of these to a Hy6 base mount. Who knows? Maybe it would work as a one off special?

    I'm always interested to read the differences in personal preferences in the finders and am happy that all these options exist.

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Quote Originally Posted by EH21 View Post
    The 45 degree prism is the only finder that corrects for the L/R mirroring which is handy.

    Marko, long ago the company offered a 90 degree prism finder for the 6000 series cameras. I probably have two of these in my used gear collection. I'll ask the factory if they can fit one of these to a Hy6 base mount. Who knows? Maybe it would work as a one off special?
    You missed one, the 90 is L/R corrected too.

    Something like that would be really interesting! My concerns are: does it have the same magnification as the current 90 degree finder? Is it long enough to clear the DB? If the answer to the above is 'yes', I'm all for it!

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkoRepse View Post
    You missed one, the 90 is L/R corrected too.

    Something like that would be really interesting! My concerns are: does it have the same magnification as the current 90 degree finder? Is it long enough to clear the DB? If the answer to the above is 'yes', I'm all for it!
    Thanks Marko,
    That's true! How could I have missed that? I don't personally use the 90 finder because I don't like the camera position, but I shoot mostly hand held.

    I've written the factory to ask if a one off could be made with one of the older 90 prisms and am waiting to hear back.

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Quote Originally Posted by EH21 View Post
    I've written the factory to ask if a one off could be made with one of the older 90 prisms and am waiting to hear back.
    Eric, thats great, thanks! Awaiting their response. On a side note, I did some Googling and found there exist a few Hasselblad prism finders which might be appropriate yet I know virtually nothing about and info is scarce, such as the HC-3/70 or RM-2. Based on images these might actually work, if adaptable. Does anyone have experience with these?

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    Senior Member EH21's Avatar
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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkoRepse View Post
    Eric, thats great, thanks! Awaiting their response. On a side note, I did some Googling and found there exist a few Hasselblad prism finders which might be appropriate yet I know virtually nothing about and info is scarce, such as the HC-3/70 or RM-2. Based on images these might actually work, if adaptable. Does anyone have experience with these?
    It seems like if you have the base part, a lot of things can be made to work since its just a matter of getting the spacing right. There is a guy on ebay selling adapter frames for the rolleiflex TLRs that accepts hasselblad prisms so conceivably you could make something similar for the Hy6 to adapt V style finders - the coverage is nearly the same. Of course the Hy6 has the display on top where the V does not so it may or may not reach it all.

    I did adapt one of the fancy hasselblad 4x4 loupes as a chimney finder a while back since it had higher power magnification but after all the work, I wasn't sure it was any better than the 3x schneider one Rollei offered.

    ps - no word yet on whether the older 90's could be adapted

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    Re: Considering the HY6

    Indeed it should be possible in theory, I suppose it comes down to finding someone who could do it properly and which finder to use!

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