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Lee universal hood
- Thread starter tjv
- Start date
The Lee Wide angle hood is great solution. I use it on my rm3di, with the Rod 28, Rod 40, SK60 and Rod 90. I use the Hood with 1 filter slot as I found the 2nd slot pushes the hood out just enough to vignette on the wider lenses.
With the 28mm, you can't shift that much anyway due to the internal design by Rodenstock. Mounting the hood on the 28mm can be a bit tricky if you use the CF.
The a fore mentioned ring for the CL-PL works very well too. It's a 105mm thread and fits on the face of the hood (opposite the slots). You have to purchase the mount and it threads with screws to the face of the hood. With this in place you will hit the top corners of the CL-PL with shifts of 15mm with the 40mm Rod. But it's still a great solution to have since if you use the filter slot for with a Lee square CL-PL, then you most times will rotate the hood to where it's not effective (to rotate the CL-PL to it's max effectiveness). Putting the filter in the front, removes this issue and you can still rotate the filter from the front.
MY ONLY ISSUE--Lee's mounting method. This needs to be locking, not pressure mounted. It's way too easy to push the whole rig off which I have done. I now use a rubber band around the entire mount, to keep the release mechanism from coming off and letting the entire hood/filters fall to the ground.
Paul
With the 28mm, you can't shift that much anyway due to the internal design by Rodenstock. Mounting the hood on the 28mm can be a bit tricky if you use the CF.
The a fore mentioned ring for the CL-PL works very well too. It's a 105mm thread and fits on the face of the hood (opposite the slots). You have to purchase the mount and it threads with screws to the face of the hood. With this in place you will hit the top corners of the CL-PL with shifts of 15mm with the 40mm Rod. But it's still a great solution to have since if you use the filter slot for with a Lee square CL-PL, then you most times will rotate the hood to where it's not effective (to rotate the CL-PL to it's max effectiveness). Putting the filter in the front, removes this issue and you can still rotate the filter from the front.
MY ONLY ISSUE--Lee's mounting method. This needs to be locking, not pressure mounted. It's way too easy to push the whole rig off which I have done. I now use a rubber band around the entire mount, to keep the release mechanism from coming off and letting the entire hood/filters fall to the ground.
Paul
Awesome, thanks for the info guys. On yours and Paula at Linhof Studio's recommendation, I've placed an order. I've been experiencing a really weird hot spot / flare issue when using my 90mm HR-W. It's a circular hot spot always seeming to be in the optical centre of the image (when using shifts / movements). The lens was sent back to Rodenstock who couldn't replicate the fault, so I'm thinking it's either an internal relocation issue or simply lens flare. Fingers crossed this hood will improve things.
Yes flare. I refused to buy the 40HR-W because of this horrible issue. A milky spot in the centre of the frame that sucks all the contrast of of that area of the image. Very easy to replicate IMO, even on an overcast day as it seems Rodenstock's are hyper critical of using a lens shade.
The shade should short it out though.
Agh! Thanks, I didn't know this was a well known issue with Rodenstock lenses. You've described exactly what I'm seeing so glad this should fix it...
Is anyone else out there able to comment on this flare issue?
Sadly, most of the modern Rodenstocks, at least the 32mm, 40mm, and 90mm all can suffer from the flare you are seeing. I was surprised to see this issue on the 90mm.
The 28mm for some reason is a bit less prone to see it, however I use the CF on it, so it may help in some way.
The Lee hood on the 90mm should eliminate this, you can probably just use the Lee Standard hood on the 90 and still shift it.
One of many features of the 43SK was it did not seem to be hampered by flare as bad, and it had a very nice sun star when shooting directly into the sun, I would never try this with the 40mm or 90mm as I believe the flare would be very hard to correct.
It's also strange that you can get this on overcast day's also, I sometimes see it on a overcast day when I have been lazy and tried to shoot without the hood. I pretty much just carry the Lee hood all the time now.
Remember to watch the mounting area, as you can very easily just push the whole rig off the wide Lee wide angle or regular adapter ring.
One other thought, if you use the wide angle adapter ring from Lee, make sure you don't have a CL-PL or any type of front rotating filter on the lens, the way the wide angle ring mounts, it covers the CL-PL and you can't grip it to get it off, thus the ring will just spin when you try to removed it.
Paul
The 28mm for some reason is a bit less prone to see it, however I use the CF on it, so it may help in some way.
The Lee hood on the 90mm should eliminate this, you can probably just use the Lee Standard hood on the 90 and still shift it.
One of many features of the 43SK was it did not seem to be hampered by flare as bad, and it had a very nice sun star when shooting directly into the sun, I would never try this with the 40mm or 90mm as I believe the flare would be very hard to correct.
It's also strange that you can get this on overcast day's also, I sometimes see it on a overcast day when I have been lazy and tried to shoot without the hood. I pretty much just carry the Lee hood all the time now.
Remember to watch the mounting area, as you can very easily just push the whole rig off the wide Lee wide angle or regular adapter ring.
One other thought, if you use the wide angle adapter ring from Lee, make sure you don't have a CL-PL or any type of front rotating filter on the lens, the way the wide angle ring mounts, it covers the CL-PL and you can't grip it to get it off, thus the ring will just spin when you try to removed it.
Paul
So with a universal hood, how do you know how much to extend it for a given lens ? Of course, you can take a picture, see if the hood vignettes, retract it if it's the case, extend if not. So you do it once, but how do you avoid doing this each time you put the hood on ? Are there markers on the hood so you can write them down and know that for the 32mm you go to marker X and for the 90mm it's marker Y ?
No marks on the hood so unless your back has live view its a case of test images one it is set. You do get a feel however after using it for a while how much you can get away with.
Of course you could always test at home and measure the hood extension for each lens but this then means you'll need to carry a tape measure with you on every shoot and you'll need more than one measurement depending on any camera movements.
set and click to check is what I have always done.
Of course you could always test at home and measure the hood extension for each lens but this then means you'll need to carry a tape measure with you on every shoot and you'll need more than one measurement depending on any camera movements.
set and click to check is what I have always done.
With the Techno and I guess Alpa et al, I guess that's where using the ground glass becomes essential. That or you use a GG and mark on the hood where each lens vignettes at what extension for quick setup in the field?
Thanks Paul.
I did not know about this problem and am gutted because I have hundreds of photos that, while not ruined, the ugly flare really pisses me off! Bugger it also happens with the 40mm Rodenstock.
What really surprises me is that it happens the most on overcast days. Must be something about bright, low lying clouds. The light in New Zealand is very intense this time of year.
Here's hoping the Lee hood helps.
I did not know about this problem and am gutted because I have hundreds of photos that, while not ruined, the ugly flare really pisses me off! Bugger it also happens with the 40mm Rodenstock.
What really surprises me is that it happens the most on overcast days. Must be something about bright, low lying clouds. The light in New Zealand is very intense this time of year.
Here's hoping the Lee hood helps.
Yes, the 40 was by far the worst on overcast days and the brighter (thinner) the cloud the worse it became. Much less of a problem in bright sunny conditions.
I purchased the SK43 instead as this lens showed non of these design faults. The dealer said they had never seen this issues before but I'd wager its always there but only shows up under certain lighting conditions, plus it's sometimes quite hard to spot on the images. As a side note, I also thought the SK had better contrast overall than the Rodie but thats another debate as the HR40 has much love on here.
Particularly when employing movements, I see no other way to check before exposure. At least for me, as I'm stuck in the dark ages shooting film and scanning on an Imacon. :loco:
chkproductions
New member
Just saw this thread and maybe this can help someone. I've been using one Lee shade for years on my field camera lenses and my DSLR lenses. I had SK Grimes make slide-over adapters for the lenses that it would vignette on so I could push it back far enough to have a clean image. It was held on by the friction a large O-ring that was exposed through slots cut in the slip over collar.
Cheers
Cheers