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Medium format macro options

PeterL

Member
Wanted to share this, because of the recent interest in macro with MF gear. Thanks to Jeff Hirsch at FotoCare, I was able to secure a set of pre-production Alpa/Novoflex adapters (actually it was my wife :D). As has already been pointed out by Steve, these fit the Novoflex BalPro T/S bellows. This bellows allow ±15° tilt (or swing) on both the front and back standard, and about 20cm extension. And also allows 26mm lateral shifts (front and back). With the SK120ASPH, you can get certainly get 1:1 magnification, probably even beyound that - I'm estimating ~1:0.8 based on the extension I used, so bigger than life size. Notice that there is no Alpa camera in use here, just the IQ140 back and the lens in Alpa mount. It is actually interesting to note it's possible to get infinity focus with this contraption, if you omit the standard 34mm adapter for the SK120ASPH. So kind of a general viewcamera :). However, I would probably never use it this way, a bit bulky outside the studio.



This Victorian Naval Medal below is 36mm diameter, about the size of a watch, Gerald ;). The challenge has always been to get everyhting in focus, including the naming on the rim and the text on the clasp. For the shot I used close to full tilt front and back (~15° forward on the front and ~15° backwards on the back - I also used the 17mm Alpa 5° tilt adapter for fine-tuning, ~2° front tilt). So all in all ~32° tilt total. With macro you need a lot more tilt than with normal shooting :). All evalualted with live view on the IQ140 back, it's not really very easy with live view, but after a while you get the hang of it. The secret is to not make too many changes all at once, but you need to move your 100% view-window as well as focus - because a small change in focus moves the view-window as well. I'm sure it would be much easier with the IQ250/150/Credo50. I tried the tethered session with live view in C1-8, but it was not convenient for me to control focus and look at the MacBook sceeen at the same time. I probably need to work on a better set up.



In the past I had to do the focus stacking routine to get everything in in focus - which works, but it's always better to get it right when you shoot it. I'm pretty pleased with the results so far, not perfect - but close to what I want. Of course this is nothing fancy, just to show what can be done withe Novoflex T/S bellows and the Alpa adapters.

Cheers, -Peter
 

f8orbust

Active member
There is a discussion on the Zerene Stacker homepage on advantages of focusing the lens vs. moving the assembly.
That's a nice article, and a good 5 min read for anyone contemplating shooting macro. I think it's worth repeating their findings here:

 

Gigas

New member
Well, could you macro shooters help me out! Today I take my macro pictures with a Fuji APS-C system, Pro X-2 with Fuji 60mm macro, 1,4 extender and 11mm tube. I shoot macro of shrimp, about 1" long in aquarium. I am not able to stack as these shrimp move about and flick their antenna way to fast. My settings are ISO 100, 250/sec. f 11-8 with a strobe w. soft box on top and another strobe beside and behind the lens. Now I like to move up to MF digital for more detail and other effects. I do not need a camera with all bells as my setting is what I always use. Most of the cameras like Fuji GXF, Hasselblad and Phase One are to expensive for me. Lens could be 120mm but I have no knowledge of digital backs and so on.
 

Shashin

Well-known member
Gigas, you find the discontinued Pentax 645D and the manual focus Pentax A 120mm f/4 Macro very good value that has many of the features you find in most current DSLRs. Whether this is better than you setup, see the comments I made in the thread you started.
 

phero66

New member
What kind of effects do you want to achieve by switching to MF? Other than gaining more MP, you only have negatives by using old CCD sensors/camera platform. Less DOF, poor live-view, etc. working at macro scale.

Since you can't focus stack due to live subject you might be better off with Nikon D810, Canon 5DS-R (with its MP-E lens), or Sony A7rii. You would get more MP, good live-view, and while less DOF then APS-C, still more than MF I think.

Not trying to dismiss MF for this work, but having a hard time justifying why you would want to use it for a small macro subject that moves... quickly! Maybe you want faster flash sync with leaf lenses?
 
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