Medium Format Pano's

[Dale Allyn]

Even though I prefer the screw clamps, this is one instance where the levers have a slight edge.
The Arca lever, if properly adjusted, just won't easily close if the base is skewed a bit.
-bob

The only close-calls I've had with RRS clamps have been with the screw-type, and always because I thought I had it seated correctly, but did not. Working in the field in awkward positions, with cold hands, etc., I have "skewed" the placement and the clamp pinched just the "rim" of the seat.

With the lever I have better feedback as to whether it is seated correctly. IMO both are good, and both require that I pay attention (easily said, but not always practiced by me).

I tend to shoot a fair number of vertical comps, and often shoot a scene horizontally then look for something vertical I can use from the scene (or visa-versa), for which the lever style clamp is a life saver. And further, I prefer the way the RRS lever tucks under the Mamiya body. Really I like both, but I do find advantages to the lever-type at times as well. I just have to be careful with either.

 

[Clawery]

I just picked up the RRS BH-55 LR. When I called them and told them what I was looking to do, the suggested that the lever was the best bet. The said that sometimes the twist lock can not be fully tightened and the plate/ camera could slip. From the other posts that I've read... they might be correct. I have to say the build quality of this head is top notch!

I'll have a better idea how it truly works in Carmel / San Francisco this week.

Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
[email protected]
Capture Integration, Phase One Dealer of the Year

877-217-9870 | National
404-234-5195 | Cell
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[PeterA]

Thanks Jack!

 

[jlm]

the only problem I encountered using the RRS slider is that the slider clamp to the camera is meant for a left-right oriented camera plate, which is what RRS provides for the mamiya, M2 and dslrs. for the Blad and Rollei, though, the camera plate is front to rear. the plates are not made to be rotated 90 degrees, as they rely on the camera edge as an anti-rotation method. I had to stack another camera plate at right angles to the F-R plate! but it is tidy and works

 

[Jack]

John:

If you buy the basic plate -- MLP 1 I think -- then the little $5 stop, then the clamp of your choice, you can mount the clamp on the rail in either direction for fore/aft or side/side attachment of the camera.

 

[etrump]

First real work with my Cambo RS/P45/35xl. Feeling real good about the kit but have a lot of learning to do.

Anyone care to share their focusing routine? The calculated hyperfocal distance doesn't seem to give sharpness to infinity.

 

[Jack]

Hi Ed:

Nice pano! You might want to use the LCC tool to prevent the magenta-green color casts that get imparted with the lens shifts, though they look kind of cool in this shot

As for DoF with medium format -- I say use a two stop lower hyperfocal for the actual aperture. IOW use the f11 hyperfocal for an f22 actual lens setting... Or consider focus stacking.

Cheers,

 

[jlm]

an issue with the lever clamp on the cube is that it has a minimal range of travel, so if you set it to grip well, it doesn't open very far and as you have so slip the camera base plate in from the end it is fussy.
the screw clamp from RRS will open far enough so you can drop the camera plate straight down into the dovetails. much nicer

 

[carstenw]

an issue with the lever clamp on the cube is that it has a minimal range of travel, so if you set it to grip well, it doesn't open very far and as you have so slip the camera base plate in from the end it is fussy.
the screw clamp from RRS will open far enough so you can drop the camera plate straight down into the dovetails. much nicer

This is not the case with my RRS quick-release clamp. If I open it to 90 degrees, yes, I have to slip it in, but if I open to 180 degrees, it drops in vertically. Is yours different, or is it somehow Cube-related??

 

[jlm]

i was speaking about the standard Arca lever clamp on the Cube

 

[Bob]

The Arca clamp that came on my cube opens all the way if the ribbed metal latch is pulled back with the thumb.
Plates then are easy to get in or out even sideways.
-bob

 

[jlm]

??? my arca cube clamp lever will only move 90 degrees when releaeing the latch button providing about .020" range of travel

 

[Bob]

Mine will move about 180.
First stage lock:
Round sliding button on side of lever unlocks for the first 90 degrees.
Second stage lock:
look at the lever surface that is now newly exposed. There you will see a serrated pin that connects the sliding button to the lock. pull that pin out just a bit with your fingernail, and the lever will open the remaining 90 degrees.
-bob

 

[Jack]

John:

The other option if you want to stick with the Cube clamp --- that lever is Delrin and easily machined. (To remove it, simply loosen the jaw adjustment wheel all the way until it slides out.) I re-contoured the cam surface to a larger flat at the 90 degree stage. This allowed for an easier in and out of standard plates.

IMO the gold fix would be a longer shaft and adding a washer and small o-ring a-la the RRS clamp

Cheers,

 

[Bob]

Jack,
With the current lever design, that is not necessary.
The double catch allows a bit of safety as well as the convenience of complete opening.
-bob

 

[jlm]

a-ha!

 

[Jack]

Jack,
With the current lever design, that is not necessary.
The double catch allows a bit of safety as well as the convenience of complete opening.
-bob

Understood, but I think it can be improved upon and who better than John to do that?

,

 

[Bob]

John,
I am willing to field-test anything you come up with in this area
-bob

 

[PeterA]

Sheeesh - thanks for teh tip Bob. Someone shoudl volunteer some help to Arca re writing a user leaflet in English that works! LOL

 

[Jack]

Someone should volunteer to build Arca a website!