need slimmer sync cables with Alpa

[epforever]

Using my Hassy H3D back on my Alpa SWA the other day, I came across a problem. When swapping the lens to the rear of the camera, and the digi back to the front (so the back shifts rather than than the lens), the lens-to-back sync cable and the back-to-Pocket Wizard cable barely fit between the digi back and the SWA's wood handles. (The cables protrude from the side of the back, rather than from the rear.) It's impossible to shift over 10mm due to the cables being in the way.

Does anyone know of any cables that have a slimmer profile than the standard Pocket Wizard ones? I'm referring specifically to the elbow segment, where it angles 90 degrees after emerging from the H3D back.

If not, is it possible to just strip the exterior from the cable and tape it up with electrical tape?

thanks
ethan

 

[jotloob]

I assume , that you will not use the decribed Setup "Hand Held" .
I can only speak for HASSELBLAD backs , using CFV-39 and CFV-50 .
Working with these backs from a tripod , you won't need a sync cable from the lens to the back . You can use HASSELBLAD electronic release cable to wake up your back and use the "flash sync" option and a exposure time set to say 2 or more seconds (set on the back) .
How it works : press the electronic release button, that wakes up the back and turns the little light at the bottom of the back to amber .
Then you should release the shutter within your specified time . The light will return back to green when your set time has expired .
It will be the same for your back .

 

[stephengilbert]

Jürgen,

Won't the plug on the Hassy cable interfere as well?

Steve

 

[jotloob]

Ahhhhh
I see , was i reading the posters comment too fast ?
Unfortunately , I can only try that out tomorrow morning .

Ethan , I would like to understand , why you want that setup.

 

[epforever]

Jurgen -- thanks for chiming in. If you mean, why I'm using the H3DII-39, it's because it's what I've got. I use it all the time for commercial and editorial work, and I'm very pleased with it. If you mean, why do I want to reverse the lens and the back, it's so I can have fall rather than rise while holding the camera right-side up, and it's so I can stitch by moving the back rather than the lens (so the lens stays in a fixed position).

I think I'll try sanding down or stripping the cables. Just wondered if anyone knew of a slimmer cable option. Thanks, everyone.

ethan

 

[jotloob]

Ethan

It has got nothing to do with the back , I just wanted to understand , why you mounted the back to the front side .
I also now can see , why I was a bit confused with the cables .
The CFV back has these two plugs rather at the rear on the left side of the back .
For your back , these plugs are rather at the front (left side) of the back .
This is why I first of all did not understand your issue .
I had to look this up at product images as I do not have an H-System back .

The CFV back is 90mm wide and has 20mm space between the back and the handle , which is sufficient enough for any common cable with an angleplug .

View attachment 86299

How much clearence do you have between the back and the handle ?
Could you use angled plugs ? If so , there might be angle plug adater cables .

An other thing , not really a solution , could be , to mount your back 90 degrees turned to the top . That would give you all required clearence but would turn your sensor into the portrait position . For some cases , this might work for you till you have found a final solution .

 

[epforever]

Thanks, Jurgen. Mounting the back vertically is a solid idea. It won't work in all cases, but it will help.

There's just about zero room between the cables and the wood handles (when you reverse the lens and back) on the H system. I'm going to try a homemade solution as well.

 

[Chris Valites]

Hi Ethan,

I know I hit you up on LuLa, but can you share a photo of the setup with the cable attached here with us? I'd love to take a closer look, I just don't have the gear on hand to monkey with.