PHase One 35D

[aztwang]

Hello all,

Since the new Schneider Blue line 35 has come out several comparison tests between it and the 35D have been done. According to test results and 35D is fairly soft in the corners. As I am looking for something a bit wider than my SK55 for my IQ 250 and don't want to ante up $6500, how do you think 35D will stack up in front of the IQ 250? Wondering if anybody has use this combination of so a reply would be appreciated.

Ciao

Don

 

[synn]

Hello all,

Since the new Schneider Blue line 35 has come out several comparison tests between it and the 35D have been done. According to test results and 35D is fairly soft in the corners. As I am looking for something a bit wider than my SK55 for my IQ 250 and don't want to ante up $6500, how do you think 35D will stack up in front of the IQ 250? Wondering if anybody has use this combination of so a reply would be appreciated.

Ciao

Don

I can't tell you about the IQ 250, but I use this lens regularly (Actually, the non D version, but I am pretty sure they are exactly the same) on the Credo 40, which has a sensor of the same size. You can see a full res test image here to see how it performs in the corners (Straight outta C1P).

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3803/12266936635_8e7d38bdd2_o.jpg

Hope this helps!

 

[Paul2660]

I agree the 35D or even the older Mamiya 35AF will work very well on a cropped sensor.

The 35AF and 35D Phase are the same basic lens optically.

The 28mm will be even better.

Paul

 

[aztwang]

Hello all,

Since the new Schneider Blue line 35 has come out several comparison tests between it and the 35D have been done. According to test results and 35D is fairly soft in the corners. As I am looking for something a bit wider than my SK55 for my IQ 250 and don't want to ante up $6500, how do you think 35D will stack up in front of the IQ 250? Wondering if anybody has use this combination of so a reply would be appreciated.

Ciao

Don

I should probably ad I would be using this for group portraits and some landscapes so edge sharpness is important with the group shots.

 

[Paul2660]

On a 1:3 cropped sensor, you have 30% less image area on a lens designed for 645 format. You will have a very sharp image if you get a good version of the 35D or even Mamiya 35mm AF. Phase's comments on the 35mm D were that a higher QA would occur, I have never shot the 35mmD, but have shot many of the Mamiya 35mm AF lenses, and current have a pretty good one.

They will not begin to equal the output of the 35LS wide open, but by F11 or so, the 35mm AF or D is very good.

Paul C

 

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

I agree with Paul. On a cropped sensor it's a good lens, but not so much on a full frame. I sold mine - I found cropping a 28 mm image was just about as good as using the 35D.

But now I'm in love with the SK 35 LS !

 

[Egor]

hmmm...I really shouldn't read this stuff...y'all got me thinkin' about that 28LS on a crop sensor (IQ250)...
I got the 24fish but never did come up with a good efficient way to de-fish it easy. Got the 40HR for the view and the 40-80LS for the full frame but still not a super wide for the IQ250...but the 28LS....dang it...stop...wallet.....no!

e

 

[Paul2660]

hmmm...I really shouldn't read this stuff...y'all got me thinkin' about that 28LS on a crop sensor (IQ250)...
I got the 24fish but never did come up with a good efficient way to de-fish it easy. Got the 40HR for the view and the 40-80LS for the full frame but still not a super wide for the IQ250...but the 28LS....dang it...stop...wallet.....no!

e

Actually unless you need the LS shutter, the 28mm D Phase One or even the 28mm Mamiya lens all share the same glass. There is no difference in the Schneider/Phase version optically unlike the 35LS and 35D. There have been some very good deals on used 28mm Mamiya lenses on ebay and on this site.

I know Don seems pleased with his 28mm on the IQ180. From my use of the 28mm, my only main issues:

1. I had a full frame sensor, and mine lens was a bit weak, until F14, which on 60MP is probably OK
2. There was no good solution for filters. But now both Cokin and Lee make adapters. Lee makes a special adapter for the Phase Hood for their SW-150 setup. From reading Don's posts, it seems that the older Mamiya versions did have just a bit different hood and some in house
mod's are needed.

As for correction, I find that both LR and C1 do a OK job on a single image. Panning with the 28mm was pretty much a disaster for me, just too wide. The 35D does OK here. And again on a cropped sensor, most likely you can pan.

Paul

 

[Egor]

Good advice, Paul. thanks!
I would probably want a leaf shutter because my main use for this would be arch interiors balanced against exterior daylight, but we all know there are ways around that..
I see you have a 28HR on the buy/sell board...oh man...why do I keep reading here

 

[Paul2660]

Good advice, Paul. thanks!
I would probably want a leaf shutter because my main use for this would be arch interiors balanced against exterior daylight, but we all know there are ways around that..
I see you have a 28HR on the buy/sell board...oh man...why do I keep reading here

Yes, the 28mm HR is a great lens, I am trying to make room for a 35LS, just can't keep both. The 28HR greatly benefits from the CF also and on the cropped sensor you can get close to 8mm of shift, unlike the larger 60 and 80MP backs.

Paul