Photographing images for reproduction

[ericd112]

Hi-

I'm about to begin a large copywork job for a client, and while I've done a fair bit of it in the past, this job is copying some very rare old photographs for a large book publication, and I want to make sure I get it right. I use a H2 with a P45+ back, polarized strobe lighting and polarizing filter on my lens. Should I be ok with a properly exposed image from that back? I read another post that alluded to interpolated data vs. non-interpolated data, etc. If anyone may have some advice for me here, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Bob]

It sounds to me that you are good to go.
The P45+ has a DR larger than the reflectance of any gelatin print. Just be sure to protect those highlights.
Since it is copywork, iso 50 or 100 should be all you need, so keep it low.
You might need to boost contrast a bit due to the veiling that will occur with the polarizer. I assume that you will be using a relatively long lens say 80 or more.
-bob

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Shoot tethered and you can actually see what you are doing and also make adjustments on the fly

 

[ericd112]

Thanks for the tips; very much appreciated! Do you think it would be necessary to include a color bar/tonal step chart in each photo for the printer? I'm unfamiliar with sending things to press, so thought I'd be on the safe side. Thanks -

 

[Bob]

If they are color-critical, then yes a step chart is a good thing depending on how they will be proofing.
Make sure that you know what profile your printer will want and make that happen in the processed tiff.
Some high-end printers will give you a profile which you might be able to use in PS to soft-proof. It sounds like a conversation with the printer might be a good thing.
Are they looking for RGB or CMYK files?
I prefer to give rgb and let them deal with their press profiles since they have their own workflow.
-bob

 

[TRSmith]

I think I'd include a grey card and step charts within the frame for each shot. As for RGB conversion to CMYK, I do those myself. However, I have a decent calibrated setup, have a lot of confidence in my system, plus I've been working with the same printers for awhile now. If it were a new relationship, I'd ask the printer what their preferences were for submitting the files.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Actually you shoot tethered in C1 put the color chart and white balance card in , take a shot use the WB tool and every shot thereafter is to that white balance . Also with the Color Picker if there is a certain tone or color you need to match you can do the same thing. Basically creating a ICC profile that you can use throughout the whole shoot. If you not using C1 Pro than certainly start. No other program is nearly as powerful for the Phase files. Frankly almost any camera it supports in my mind