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Oh great they released it too soonAs of Today 3/18 new firmware out. XF 2.01.2 , IQ250 4.01.2 and there's one out for IQ 160 & 180
Cheers
Don
nope. I also disabled the focus function on the rear button as mentioned by ken, still doesn’t work. then I reset the camera to defaults thinking some other setting I’m using may be causing the problem. No difference.Wayne
I just checked again, I focussed with the af to the close point, don't think this matters, flipped across to the stacking screen and saved that point as start point, then half press shutter to get back to main screen, used af to focus on far point, flipped back across to the stacking screen and set that point as the far point, selected the number of shots and pressed the rear button to start the process. Does that not work for you?
Mat
If you're in a still life or product setting you can also use the USB3/1.2BC spec or FW800, or the FW-AC options for power. Depending on which of these methods, which back you have, and what you're doing (eg little live view or lots of live view) this will either eliminate the need for battery changes or greatly reduce them. There is also an AC-to-XF solution coming soon.I work for a corporate studio and we just took delivery of three new XF systems. Is there a way to look thru the camera without it being turned on? It is a real pain to keep the camera powered on while I prop out a set and check composition. The batteries seem to drain very fast. Would using the "Simple" mode described earlier help save the battery?
As I said earlier, you DON'T NEED TO HAVE POWER ON to view through the XF body if you set the option Power Management -> Mirror Down :facesmack:Is there any camera body that can be used with the IQ360 that doesn't need to be powered on to look thru the viewfinder (DF, DF+, Mamiya 645 AFD, or similar)? We are using the new Schneider 35mm, 55mm, 80mm and 120mm lenses (blue line). Our photographers are not using any of the new features on the XF. We set everything manually including focus like an old manual everything camera. We are coming from Hasselblad 501CM bodies.
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Patrick
Thanks Doug and Christopher. I am using the XF and an IQ360 tethered to a Mac Pro using a firewire 800 to thunder bolt adapter. The battery still drains pretty fast. We also use the Manfrotto 410 geared head which will not allow us to change the battery on the back while it is mounted to the tripod. The problem with that is we shoot in layers using different exposures a lot and the battery will sometimes dye in the middle of the shoot. It then becomes very difficult to maintain registration when we remove the camera from the head to change the battery.
Is there any camera body that can be used with the IQ360 that doesn't need to be powered on to look thru the viewfinder (DF, DF+, Mamiya 645 AFD, or similar)? We are using the new Schneider 35mm, 55mm, 80mm and 120mm lenses (blue line). Our photographers are not using any of the new features on the XF. We set everything manually including focus like an old manual everything camera. We are coming from Hasselblad 501CM bodies.
I am trying to get my head wrapped around this new system. I'd like to get the camera interface simplified as much as possible so I can focus on the photography and no the camera. It can be so frustrating that we leave the expensive Phase One gear in the studio for location work and shoot our Canon gear instead (we have found it more reliable, not what Phase wants to hear I know). Your help is greatly appreciated.
Patrick
I've done multiple 24+ hour timelapses with the ALPA FPS, which I believe uses fundamentally the same shutter as the XF.One of the neat basic features of the XF is that it has a TIMER!! (awesome feature), which all modern cameras should have, i.e. you can time a shot beyond 30".
A lot of timelaspe work, for at least astro shots, will be more like 2 minute shots or longer, so the wear on the shutter won't be that bad, but if you are wanting to create a timelaspe video from daylight work, then yes, you will put quite a lot of wear on the shutter, as most times these are a series of 5" or 10" shots over a long period of time.
For me, the 35mm DSLR or gopro even type cameras are better suited for timelaspe in daylight.
But for sure you can do it now, and since the daylight exposures most times are less than 10" all Phase One backs, CCD or CMOS could do this.
Great to see this added for sure.
Paul C
What good is a 12K time-lapse? What are you going to show it on? It would make more sense to use the IQ180 in Sensor Plus mode. You'd get a 5K file and the ability to show night sky. (Pats self on back for realizing I can do this now !)I've done multiple 24+ hour timelapses with the ALPA FPS, which I believe uses fundamentally the same shutter as the XF.
Never had a problem with it.
I'd strongly recommend people to use Phase One gear for timelapse work!
Personally, I'm looking forward to creating some 12K timelapses. Only the IQ3 100 can create those. Nothing else comes close.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
How does it make more sense?What good is a 12K time-lapse? What are you going to show it on? It would make more sense to use the IQ180 in Sensor Plus mode. You'd get a 5K file and the ability to show night sky. (Pats self on back for realizing I can do this now !)
Unless you have a LS lens ...I've done multiple 24+ hour timelapses with the ALPA FPS, which I believe uses fundamentally the same shutter as the XF.
This is a known issue. Check with your dealer. Not sure if there is a fix yet.After updating both latest firmwares my IQ250 now has a vertical white strip line in left side of screen (live view only) (1px wide).
I watched your video. Dumb Question....Did you watch Phase Ones Focus staking video? Follow those steps, at least I did and it works fine, first time I tried it it worked. You adjust focus with rear and front dials. Take a look ...again if you have seen it and try again.I uploaded a quick unlisted video to YouTube here https://youtu.be/-g9S-4gaIf0
which shows what I am interpreting from the descriptions I have read as the way to use autofocus along with the new focus stacking tool. Those of you who have been able to use autofocus with the tool, could you take a look and let me know if I’m missing some little thing, or if my camera just doesn’t seem to be operating the same way?
I’ve reset the camera to defaults to make sure it isn’t a setting I’ve changed, and I’ve tried this with 3 of my 4 lenses (40-80LS, 75-150 non LS, and 240LS).
thanks