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The great tripod & head thread!

vjbelle

Well-known member
And now you can also try the cube on serie 2 and the p0 on serie 3 just to see where the vibration come from ... interested by your finding ;)
The tripod is the major contributor of instability. The P0 on my series 3 tripod is much more stable albeit not as stable as the Cube. I no longer have the series 2 Traveler as it has been returned. My 3 section series 1 tripod is very similar stability wise to the series 2 Traveler and does not benefit from the additional mass of the Cube. I use the 180mm a lot for landscapes and this is where stability issues really show up. I'm usually trying to focus on something that may be 1000 or more feet away and at that distance nothing can move.

Victor
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
This weekend, I spent some time and re-read this entire informative thread and I have learned a lot! Yet, I have this nagging feeling that the elephant has been ignored... what are the best choices for an affordable tripod to match with the Cube?

The Cube is very expensive, so in order to keep the hemorrhaging under control, surely there is a good match for the Cube and H5D that is less than $1k.:thumbup:
 

stephengilbert

Active member
Dave,

I suspect that the tripod/head chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Cutting corners on the tripod won't be cured by putting a Cube on top. I think the legs are more important than the head.

Steve
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Dave,

I suspect that the tripod/head chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Cutting corners on the tripod won't be cured by putting a Cube on top. I think the legs are more important than the head.

Steve
Yes, I totally agree!:)

What I am asking is which tripods would fit in the system that includes a substantial sized MF camera and potential lenses + the C1 Cube... hopefully there are several, and hopefully under a grand. Maybe not, but I would like to hear if any recommendations whatever the price may be.:)
 

vjbelle

Well-known member
This weekend, I spent some time and re-read this entire informative thread and I have learned a lot! Yet, I have this nagging feeling that the elephant has been ignored... what are the best choices for an affordable tripod to match with the Cube?

The Cube is very expensive, so in order to keep the hemorrhaging under control, surely there is a good match for the Cube and H5D that is less than $1k.:thumbup:
I wouldn't recommend anything less sturdy than the series 3 Gitzo tripods. RRS has an equivalent and these tripods are all tight to $1k. Its the price you have to pay for stability. The Manfroto's are less but are heavier and weight is a big issue with me. I'm sure others will chime in.......

Victor
 

jng

Well-known member
This weekend, I spent some time and re-read this entire informative thread and I have learned a lot! Yet, I have this nagging feeling that the elephant has been ignored... what are the best choices for an affordable tripod to match with the Cube?

The Cube is very expensive, so in order to keep the hemorrhaging under control, surely there is a good match for the Cube and H5D that is less than $1k.:thumbup:
Well, you do realize that you're in Dante's forum...:p

Seriously, though, for US $1000 (plus or minus) one can purchase either a 2- or 3-series carbon fiber tripod from Really Right Stuff. Not exactly inexpensive but the quality is outstanding and within the limit you defined. I use my Cube on a 3-series aluminum Gitzo and a RRS TVC-24 when out in the field, and am happy with the stability of both when using longer focal lengths up to 250mm w/MFDB. I'm sure there are other and less expensive alternatives that will do the job just fine as well and as always, YMMV.

John

Addendum to my previous post re: D4+leveling base+RRS 2-series tripod (#242): the leveling base for the 2-series RRS tripod extends above the tripod base by about the same height as a center column that's fully retracted, which I think makes the setup less effective in dampening vibrations and contributed to the issues I mentioned previously. We could see the net effect by tapping on the camera while in live view; it took quite a bit of time for the gyrations to cease. By contrast, with the Cube+2-series the oscillations were noticeably smaller and dissipated much more rapidly. The platform of the RRS 3-series leveling base sits much closer to the tripod base, an arrangement that I'm guessing is more stable but haven't tried this myself.
 

dchew

Well-known member
Dave,

Steve is right and expressed it succinctly. One way to save a little on the tripod is to look for a "gently used" one on the forums. As photographers downsize their kits, retire, change subjects, etc., they often sell tripods. GetDPI, Fred Miranda, and Luminous Landscape are good places to start. For me, eBay is a last resort. I'd also recommend a Gitzo 3-series or the RRS equivalent.

Joe
Speaking of that, I have a Gitzo GT3541XLS gathering dust. Dave, PM me if that is of interest to you.

Dave
 

Christopher

Active member
I find the gitzo 3 series to heavy and not showing any real benefit except in some very rare situations. I currently own 6 gitzo and 2 Feisol tripods.

I wound recommend a series 2 gitzo as it saves at least 500g and is stable enough.

In the US RRS might be a cheaper options. In Europe it's just a waste of Money.
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
That's why this place is a great forum for photographers. Hope you two Daves find a deal in there somewhere. :thumbup:

Joe
Thanks, Joe, for the short time I have been on the MF forum, I gotta say that this is a great little community! I wish I lived in a small town that was this helpful!:thumbup:
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
I wouldn't recommend anything less sturdy than the series 3 Gitzo tripods. RRS has an equivalent and these tripods are all tight to $1k. Its the price you have to pay for stability. The Manfroto's are less but are heavier and weight is a big issue with me. I'm sure others will chime in.......

Victor
Hi, Victor,

I have been studying the Cube and three series Gitzo tripods, and I am convinced you have saved me a lot of time and trial by error! Coming from a Leica and a Hasselblad film camera background, I know where you are coming from with manual lenses. The fact that I may also use manual lenses on the new-to-me H5D is reason enough to move up to the 3 series.

I am kind of intrigued with the extraordinary height available as well since I will be shooting Portraits and landscapes.

So, the tripod choice is set... now I need a couple of paying gigs while I study the Cube some more!!!:)
 

algrove

Well-known member
The tripod is the major contributor of instability. The P0 on my series 3 tripod is much more stable albeit not as stable as the Cube. I no longer have the series 2 Traveler as it has been returned. My 3 section series 1 tripod is very similar stability wise to the series 2 Traveler and does not benefit from the additional mass of the Cube. I use the 180mm a lot for landscapes and this is where stability issues really show up. I'm usually trying to focus on something that may be 1000 or more feet away and at that distance nothing can move.

Victor
So glad I have decided to stick with my cube and RRS 33TVL. I was thinking I could get away with something lesser for tech cam use, but the last thing I want is to travel thousands of miles, drive hundreds of miles and then wish I had a sturdier setup due to wind or whatever. Thanks.
 

kdphotography

Well-known member
Using RRS legs, the TVC 3 series is a better match for the Cube. The TVC 2 series is easier to travel with but with the Cube is top heavy. I opted for the KPS T5 geared ball head on the RRS TVC 24. Overall prefer the RRS TVC 33 and Cube with the heavy XF or Cambo.

ken
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Using RRS legs, the TVC 3 series is a better match for the Cube. The TVC 2 series is easier to travel with but with the Cube is top heavy. I opted for the KPS T5 geared ball head on the RRS TVC 24. Overall prefer the RRS TVC 33 and Cube with the heavy XF or Cambo.

ken
Thanks, Ken, that is a good thumbnail summary for me.:)
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Well, that was quick! I am settled on the tripod :) ... now, the Cube. No way is that reachable for the rest of this year. Maybe next, grrrr.

This summer I have six photo shoots for outdoor portraits to do. What tripod head to use is my next problem to solve. The RRS BH55, who is using it and how well would it perform for portraits in the field? I am not concerned with weight as there is no extended hiking involved in my venues. I am, however, confused with the few options available, i.e.: lever, classic screw, panning.
 

Geoff

Well-known member
Like others on this forum, a bit too much gear but maybe some observations - slightly different from others. To put this in context, I don't shoot a lot in heavy wind, but do get out and about.

Typically use a BH40 ball head or a Linhof 3D for mounts, and a Gitzo 2541 close to home and a smaller Gitzo 1248 for traveling. The 1248 is usually fine, with some care, but at full extension and the BH40, it is not good enough for a 150mm lens in wind. In a pinch, use the larger legs only (w less height).

But there is more than just tripod legs in the equation. A longer view camera lens (120mm) and finger release of a Copal shutter surprisingly led to blurred shots even with the larger tripod. Changed from the ball head to the 3D mount, used a cable release and a softer touchand the problem went away.

Tried one of those smaller lightweight carbon fiber tripods with a small built-in ball head and found it wasn't much use under 1/30. On the other hand, one day in the jungles of Ecuador, had to borrow an older Gitzo monopod - the one with 3 small legs extending about 6" in each direction - and got sharp 5 sec exposures in still air by using only 3' high, MLU, 8 second shutter delay, and a very soft touch.

From this perspective, then, stable mounting for the camera and a soft shutter touc is more important than the size of the tripod leg. A heavy bag hanging from the tripod helps too.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
I've been testing the p0 Hybrid for my uses with tabletop and light duty field uses.

On my light Manfrotto CF090 series legs, I find it does a fine job even with the big SL90-280 lens for the tabletop work: There's very little residual vibration when tapping the tripod, focus and exposure are easy. Outdoors, there's a bit of motion in light wind that I can damp down with a camera bag's weight and I'd say the use is "acceptable" if not brilliant.

On my larger Feisol CT3442 legs, fitted with the center column but not extended, performance is excellent for both indoor and outdoor shooting. Of course, when I switch out the column for the flat plate, it gets even better. Light wind doesn't bother the setup at all; add a bit of weight if the wind goes to 'heavy' and it stays good.

Overall, just the head alone:
The detents in the geared adjustment I don't find troublesome. They are there but they don't hurt positioning precision or stability that I can tell. The much heavier detents in the panning adjustment are a bit more of a nuisance: making fine adjustments when you get into the range of the detent is more difficult than it should be. It wouldn't be so annoying if the detent was about a third the strength. They make smooth, dynamic panorama captures with something like the iPhone impossible, however.

I'm waiting to hear further from Rod about a modification that will remove or greatly lessen the strength of the panning detents.

Comparing the level adjustment with the SL's built-in viewfinder level ... The head's bubble level is well within the built-in level's range. When I turn the adjustments, the built-in level's plus/minus point is about 1.8°, evenly in the middle of the adjustment range. So this works well, up to its resolution. I find using a two-tube bubble level, or a large circular bubble level, mounted in the camera's accessory shoe is the more accurate, higher resolution way to ensure a perfect level however. The goniometer adjustments make it very easy to set a perfectly level camera position this way.

For use with the SL24-90 and my remaining R lenses, I'll want to use either my general purpose L-bracket or a dedicated L-mount camera plate for the SL. The latter is much more convenient

I also tested the head briefly with my Hasselblad SWC and 500CM too (using film). Given the range of lenses I have (38 to 150 mm), it worked very nicely. I can't imagine that it has any negatives for use with this camera system, presuming I use the mirror lockup on the 500CM as I normally do for longer exposures.

The QuickLink head mount is quick, secure, and handy. It adds another small bit of height to the top of the tripod column (estimating about 10mm) and about 3 ounces more to the weight of the tripod head setup.

Overall, I'm happy with the p0 Hybrid and QuickLink head mounting system for my purposes. I think it will be improved with the lighter/no detents modification on the panorama movement, even if that does slow down setup and use a bit.

G
 
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jng

Well-known member
Well, that was quick! I am settled on the tripod :) ... now, the Cube. No way is that reachable for the rest of this year. Maybe next, grrrr.

This summer I have six photo shoots for outdoor portraits to do. What tripod head to use is my next problem to solve. The RRS BH55, who is using it and how well would it perform for portraits in the field? I am not concerned with weight as there is no extended hiking involved in my venues. I am, however, confused with the few options available, i.e.: lever, classic screw, panning.
Out of the RRS lineup, the BH-55 is the best matched to 3-series legs, assuming this is what you went with. It's rock solid, easy to operate and essentially bomb-proof. Since portability isn't an issue for you, I wouldn't go with anything smaller.

Lever vs screw clamp: a matter of personal preference. I prefer the lever clamp, mainly because I caught myself once too often unscrewing the clamp when I thought I was adjusting the head! Some non-RRS plates (e.g., those made by Arca-Swiss) may not mate 100% snug with the lever clamps, although the newer ones are self-adjusting which seems to have fixed this. This issue is moot if you're using a RRS camera plate or go with the screw clamp, whose tightness is essentially infinitely adjustable.

Panning base: you may not miss it if you're shooting portraits. One benefit, however, is that once you set the platform level you can pan side-to-side without having to re-level the whole contraption, which frankly is a pain with a ball head. Or save yourself the extra 150 bucks and put it in your Cube fund.:D

John
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
I sent my p0 Hybrid to Rod in order to have the panning base detents removed. It returned last week (he turned it around in four-five days) but I've just now had a bit of time to put it to use.

Disabling the panning detents was the right thing to do, for me anyway. It now works superbly for my shooting methodology, allowing me ultra-precise positioning as well as quick 'rough in' and can handle dynamic pan operations without a hitch. The only additional thing I need to do when starting a setup is to orient the panning base with the one of the leveler axes first so that they are working orthogonal to each other.

I like this head a whole lot, the levelers take the frustration out of trying to do precise framing with a ball head. It handles my heaviest setup (Leica SL with SL90-280) with ease.

G
 

Smoothjazz

Active member
I have an e-mail from Alpa in my inbox offering a special on their tripod and cube system. It looks a lot like the Area cube in form and function. Their tripod is very modular, and looks great. It is a good deal for everything in the package, relative to Alpa prices.
Has anyone seen or used the Alpa tripod?
 
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