What's on your XF feature request list ?

[aztwang]

I would like to know what features XF owners would like to see
become reality. With the open platform architecture, honestly
I'm not sure what the limits are.
*I would like to see the internal Profoto transmitter have channel
And group options like the on camera transmitters have.
*I Would love to see a Truefocus type feature enabled, heck all the
Parts to the puzzle all already there!
*Another tweak to A/F performance would be welcomed, just
That last little bit��

Cheers everyone and have a great week!��

 

[DrakeJ]

I would like to know what features XF owners would like to see
become reality. With the open platform architecture, honestly
I'm not sure what the limits are.
*I would like to see the internal Profoto transmitter have channel
And group options like the on camera transmitters have.
*I Would love to see a Truefocus type feature enabled, heck all the
Parts to the puzzle all already there!
*Another tweak to A/F performance would be welcomed, just
That last little bit��

Cheers everyone and have a great week!��

I just ordered mine coupled with a refurb IQ180. Now the wait begins...

Features I sincerely hope they implement soon is 6-axis image stabilization which I pretty much assume is just a software fix away and true focus capability and/or other focusing wizardry.

Other features include 2nd curtain shutter and a Profoto interface, as you say, where you can dial in power on the respective groups as well.

That's basically all I want

 

[Bill Caulfeild-Browne]

I'll be happy with an effective latch for the prism finder!
The rest is gravy....

 

[Paul2660]

More integrated time settings on the build in timer (very unique to any camera)

The ability to bring down the XF settings like focus peaking, hyperfocal, all the tools etc from the small LCD of the XF to the IQ display as it can be hard at times to see that top LCD of the XF.

Remote release, (I realize one is out there, but supply is 0), can't be that hard to make these

Focus stacking, The ability to set the near/far distance via AF, i.e. hit the spot you want to set for either point with AF, then use the buttons on the camera to set. If this is possible I have never gotten it to work right. Focus stacking seems to be more designed for the product shoots with a tethered back and from the demos I have seen this works great, but it would be nice to have a bit more usability in the field, where you only need 4 to 5 stacks to get the job done.

In my Dreams:

Ability to integrate the touch screen of the back with AF, i.e. zoom into 100% and touch a spot in the image, and have the XF focus there. That to me would be "game changing" The touch screen is already there, so the later part should be possible on a CMOS back for sure.

EVF, attachment, which would possibly correspond with touch AF.

Paul C

 

[Chipcarterdc]

My wishlist can be found throughout this thread:

http://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=110119.0

To summarize:

(1) A vertical grip. As mentioned in one of my first posts in this thread, handholding vertically is adequate as-is, but the more I use the camera, the more convinced I become that an optional vertical grip would be very helpful.

(2) There should be some way to customize the size and layout of the icons on the top touch screen with a greater degree of nuance than there is currently. Currently, there's "classic" mode, which shows a bunch of camera parameters, and then "simple" mode, which limits the displayed parameters to only a few (aperture, shutter speed, exposure comp., and battery status). What I'd like to be able to do is (a) select which individual parameters to display and (b) be able to change the size and positioning of the displayed parameters. For example: When shooting quickly and wanting to change drive modes or exposure comp., I find that the icons are a bit too small: I sometimes end up accidentally touching the wrong parameter. Being able to select the individual parameters that I want to display (beyond the binary choices of classic mode and simple mode) and being able to alter their size so that they each take up more screen real estate when fewer of them are displayed would be very helpful.

(3) Electronic masks or crop marks in the viewfinder so that you can accurately compose and shoot verticals and square with the waist level finder, and a crop mode that will apply that crop to the images when imported into Capture One.

(4) Some sort of True Focus type functionality

(5) Dramatically decreasing the start-up time: it takes 8-10 seconds from "power on" to "ready to shoot", which is an eternity in this day and age.

(6) There should be a way to lock a *single* exposure variable (ISO, shutter speed, aperture, exposure comp.) so that they're not unintentionally changed if you accidentally jostle a dial or touch the setting on one of the touch screens. As it is (at least as far as I can tell after only a couple of days with it and having not exhaustively read the manual), you can lock all of the wheels and settings, but you can't lock just one (such as ISO). There should be a functionality where you click on the relevant variable (say, aperture) on the top touch screen and it brings up an option to lock just that variable. This seems like an easy one to fix with a firmware update.

(7) Speeding up image review and zoom: it takes quite a while for them to render when zoomed in, and after shooting a sequence, it takes quite a while for the images to be ready to review.

(8) Also regarding image review and zoom: it should be changed to a "spread two fingers to zoom/pinch to contract" rather than the current "tap the screen, then use your finger to move the zoom slider" functionality. After using iPads and iPhones for so many years, the former is much more intuitive.

(9) There are things in the menu that are accessible via the top touch screen that are *not* in the menu accessible from the digital back. E.g., focus trim is *only* accessible via the top touch screen. That's crazy: the same menu items should be accessible at all times from both menu screens.

 

[dougpeterson]

Focus stacking, The ability to set the near/far distance via AF, i.e. hit the spot you want to set for either point with AF, then use the buttons on the camera to set. If this is possible I have never gotten it to work right. Focus stacking seems to be more designed for the product shoots with a tethered back and from the demos I have seen this works great, but it would be nice to have a bit more usability in the field, where you only need 4 to 5 stacks to get the job done.

Yes this can be done.

Focus stacking was not designed exclusively for tethered shooting. If it was they would have taken the (much easier) path of doing it in Capture One. Instead they integrated the tool directly into the body and allowed focus to be set by live view, focus mask, 100% post-capture incremental review, autofocus, or manual focusing through the viewfinder. If you're having difficulty using AF to set the points I'd suggest working with your dealer's tech team.

 

[DougDolde]

I'll be happy with an effective latch for the prism finder!
The rest is gravy....

No kidding me too. It is extremely unprofessional that Phase One isn't even admitting it's a problem

Makes me wish I had stuck with the Contax 645 which never had this issue.

 

[aztwang]

No kidding me too. It is extremely unprofessional that Phase One isn't even admitting it's a problem

Makes me wish I had stuck with the Contax 645 which never had this issue.

I hear ya but very odd. I have never had the viewfinder pop loose. True its got a bit of wiggle but thats about it.

Cheers

Don

 

[kdphotography]

The viewfinder latch is the weakest point on the XF. If you accidentally hit it, the viewfinder may loosen and not maintain full electronic contacts (an annoyance quickly fixed), or fall off completely. Once you're aware of the sensitivity of the latch, you learn to watch out for it---I haven't had an issue since. A half-inch strip of gaffers tape adds extra insurance.

ken

 

[GrahamWelland]

Focus stacking, The ability to set the near/far distance via AF, i.e. hit the spot you want to set for either point with AF, then use the buttons on the camera to set.

:thumbs: That's how I expected it should have worked vs the more cumbersome method today. Ok, I can write down my hyper focal and focus stack limit values per lens and dial them in but the logical way to do it is as you mentioned, AF near / far points in the VF or even LV and have the body pick them up. Now granted, it isn't hard to dial in 0, 230 or whatever your gaps are with the lens but it's not intuitive or user friendly.

The viewfinder latch is the weakest point on the XF. If you accidentally hit it, the viewfinder may loosen and not maintain full electronic contacts (an annoyance quickly fixed), or fall off completely. Once you're aware of the sensitivity of the latch, you learn to watch out for it---I haven't had an issue since. A half-inch strip of gaffers tape adds extra insurance.

ken

I hear you all. Luckily it hasn't been an issue for me so far. I always store the camera with the left side down in the bag so so far no disastrous situations have occurred. YET. The WLF finder can be a pain to swap at times but such a joy to use. One of my shooter friends ran into VF mask scratch issues when changing between the prism and WLF. Hasn't happened to me yet but if one of us has the problem you can be sure that the rest of us will run into it eventually.

I hear ya but very odd. I have never had the viewfinder pop loose. True its got a bit of wiggle but thats about it.

Cheers

Don

Luckily me neither although I do think that I'll be adding a bit of gaffer tape to the button. Ditto the MFDB release btw.

 

[GrahamWelland]

Yes this can be done.

Focus stacking was not designed exclusively for tethered shooting. If it was they would have taken the (much easier) path of doing it in Capture One. Instead they integrated the tool directly into the body and allowed focus to be set by live view, focus mask, 100% post-capture incremental review, autofocus, or manual focusing through the viewfinder. If you're having difficulty using AF to set the points I'd suggest working with your dealer's tech team.

Did something change because I've had to dial in the focus point manually and not via AF via the VF. I have my rear AF button set vs shutter release.

 

[dougpeterson]

Did something change because I've had to dial in the focus point manually and not via AF via the VF. I have my rear AF button set vs shutter release.

Nothing changed. It's been possible from the get go.

 

[Paul2660]

Nothing changed. It's been possible from the get go.

Actually I don't believe it's possible using just the AF of the XF and hasn't been from the get go. This has been true for me with 3 different tests on the different XF bodies all using the latest firmware. They ALL have worked the same way. All have the latest firmware for the XF, the CMOS back is running 1 release of firmware behind latest, as only changes I am aware of are UI for the back.


Net,

If you use an XF in AF mode to focus stack, the following happens about 90% of the time.

Lens worked with 35LS, 55LS, 80LS and 75-150 non LS.

1. Focus on distance spot with AF on XF, move to tools==focus stack, hit the focus gears icon, getting a number for the far focus motor number and set the distance spot, (upper silver bar),

2. Re-compose, for near subject, use AF, move back to tools==focus stack, ATTEMPT to set the near spot, 75% to 80% of the time the camera will just reset the far point for the near point. I have done this enough times to know that this process is not working correctly. 1 out of 5 times the two points will register correctly, the other times the camera just picks the previous focus point (near or far which ever one was first recorded).

Note, tethered in Live View, this does not happen as the point clicked on registers correctly for both near and far, however in the field, I don't find this to be very useable. NOTE, clicking on the focus point that is showing on the tethered Live View screen, as in a studio setting.

The ONLY way I can get it TO work correctly is to do the following:

1. Focus on distance subject matter with the XF AF, then, jump into Live View, while in Live View move to tools==focus stack and then hit the gears to register the focus point and hit the far. NOTE, the first point works most of the time.

2. Go back and recompose and focus on near point. Jump into Live view and check the focus, if it's correct switch the lens to MF mode with the clutch on the lens, then go back to tools==focus stack. The gears will show red since the AF is off, clutch the lens back to AF mode (more than likely lens will slightly jump out of best focus) so since you are still in Live View tweak the AF (yes move the focus ring with the AF on, you are not moving very much and I don't think you will hurt anything, at least I hope not), now that that AF is on, the gears will register a near point, and input that.

3. Move the near point just a bit past optimum focus with the manual dial, and add 1 more to the total stack. This just makes sure the intended subject is in full focus.

This method works, but only if you have a CMOS back, thus I feel that a vast majority of XF users possibly will have similar problems as mine but since they don't have a working Live View, they can't make the same Live View checks.

Paul C

 

[f8orbust]

Just curious here…

...from looking at the manual (sorry, I don't have a dealer to call) it sounds like you have to manually (via the front and side dials) move the lens in MCUs to the far and near points (of the area you want in focus). Then the user needs to decide on the number of exposures.

Is it not possible to just point and focus (with the shutter release button, as per shooting an image) to set each of the limits of the DoF ? Once the near and far points are found, it seems to me that since the camera knows the focal length of the lens being used, and the aperture, it should be able to calculate the optimum number of exposures necessary for the DoF required; the user shouldn't have to guesstimate.

Jim

 

[Paul2660]

Just curious here…

...from looking at the manual (sorry, I don't have a dealer to call) it sounds like you have to manually (via the front and side dials) move the lens in MCUs to the far and near points (of the area you want in focus). Then the user needs to decide on the number of exposures.

Is it not possible to just point and focus (with the shutter release button, as per shooting an image) to set each of the limits of the DoF ? Once the near and far points are found, it seems to me that since the camera knows the focal length of the lens being used, and the aperture, it should be able to calculate the optimum number of exposures necessary for the DoF required; the user shouldn't have to guesstimate.

Jim

Yes that makes sense, but it only seem to work this way for 1 of the two needed points i.e. you AF on far point, to the tool, and set the far point (top silver narrow button), but when you focus -recompose for the near point and go now with the lens at the near point via AF of the XF, and attempt to select the near point in the tool, silver narrow bottom button), the vast majority of the times, the camera re-inputs the point already saved, in this case the far point. In my testing, 1 out of 5 times it worked correctly, in that both points were recorded. This is way too many misses and take way too long in the field. Thus I have developed the method I am using, but that only will work with a CMOS back, as you have to check with Live View.

The lens MSU's move up and down in increments of 10.

Paul C

 

[mjr]

Paul

Are you using that method for landscape shots or for closer up stuff?

I am very simplistic in my approach and have never had a problem, I af to either the nearest or furthest point depending on how far away the subject is, tap the gear icon and the set button, then just use the viewfinder to watch where the plane of focus is moving with the rear dial, done in a 10 seconds at most. I have found shooting at around minimum focussing distance I just af in close, set the point and then look through the viewfinder as I use the rear dial to move out to the correct point, I don't have an issue with going further than necessary and picking the shots I want to use in post if needs be but really not had that problem yet. I have also on occasion just set the lens at hyperfocal for a landscape and used that as the start point, scrolling back from there until I see what I want in focus close up with the viewfinder and away you go, the things I am looking at close up are normally easy to see pretty accurately. I find the XF really easy to manually focus with, the viewfinder is pretty good so picking points for a stack doesn't feel any different, not having live view hasn't been an issue for me personally but I much prefer a good viewfinder to a screen anyway, I can appreciate that others like to do things differently.

I am also going to sound like a dick with the viewfinder issue some face, as was mentioned above, I always lay it down with the grip up, I have never once had an issue with it unlatching although the actual catch does rattle a little, like it's not sprung loaded properly, not dismissing anyone else's issues with either of these things, just saying I haven't experienced them and it's always good to hear a range of experiences.

Mat

 

[mjr]

Actually, the camera working out the number of shots is a great idea, I guess a bit of processing power needed to work it out but as it knows focus distance near and far and aperture then it shouldn't be impossible, nice idea!

Mat

 

[Paul2660]

Hi Mat

All landscape stuff. All 5 stacks usually.

The problem I have with just moving the wheel is that in many scenes that is a lot of focus motor units and the wheel is only moving in increments of 10.

But I agree totally that does work. I was also worried about wear on the motor as in essence using the wheel is like driving a 4wd in 4 low where as hitting the AF is like 4 hi.

Don't get me wrong it's a great idea. I just feel phase designed it with studio work in mind and did not test the other methods. In theory it should take just 2 hits of the AF button and you are done.

Also one other reason to allow the disabling of the dark frame. If you are shooting a series where the shittwr speed is 15 seconds then the extra 15 sec for the dark frame can be tedious.

Paul C

 

[mjr]

I hadn't thought about long exposure stacks to be honest, yes I can see with the dark frame that would be a complete nightmare. For really big dof shots I have found I just switch out of af after setting infinity, manual focus all the way back in before switching back to af, I have read of people having issues with the lens not going back to the point after the lens cycles but to be honest I have not seen that with my setup.

I agree it is really good in the studio for high number stacks at closer distances, works really well even without live view.

Mat

 

[Dan Santoso]

Halo,

I just tried focus stacking for the first time today. I dont use AF because the idea of moving the camera again after I lock my composition and level is just to cumbersome.

So in manual mode i look into the viewfinder to find longest distance subject which is usually at infinity, then go to AF, then it focus stacking interface it will show the number of motor unit you currently at, then register to far setting. Go back to manual find nearest subject and go back to AF and register it then shoot with rear button. When I change from manual to AF, the lens ring distance info usually does not show exact value when I am in manual mode, it actually jump longer a bit more in focus stacking mode.

So in the future it will be great if you can register in manual mode without going back to AF. Compose in tripod, focus at infinity, register, focus at nearest, register, shoot, all in one smooth operation without going back and forward.

-Dan