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For a long exposure the "roll" takes about a second to start and stop. In between the entire sensor is exposing continuously and will behave as you normally expect.Doug.... how will the rolling shutter affect images in the 10 second to 1 minute range for purposely blurring water and smoothing clouds? I don't have a way of testing this on my own right now otherwise I ask the question.
Thanks.......
Victor
As noted in the article movement that does not move across much of the frame is fine - each line reads out very quickly. Only movement that crosses a large part of the frame quickly is problematic. Even then it's really only problematic at short shutter speeds where you are trying to freeze a fast moving object.Good looking series of feature updates, look forward to trying them out.
Very happy to see full Electronic Shutter on the IQ100, thought it might mean I could use my Alpa TC/STC/Max without needing to cock the shutter, and it does, kind of, but not for anything moving with what appears to be a strong rolling shutter problem - not surprising given the sensors size/Mp, but that kind of kills silent street work. With anything involving motion you'll still need a regular shutter - lens or focal plane - for that, correct Doug?
Put the IQ on the XF and do the firmware update and everything is handled in one operation.If you update the XF with the IQ100 on it, does that upgrade the IQ firmware as well as the camera, or is it 2 upgrade operations needed here? thanks
I will gladly pass along this feedback. It's a good idea.Doug.... I do wish you could pass along my vote for retaining the aperture even after the back has been turned off. As it is now it resorts back to 'no aperture' which once again has to be set for the current image. From my end there's no reason to reset that setting since almost all of my images are taken at f11..... set it and forget it.
It's weird capturing an image with a 100mp camera without even a whisper of a noise. Right??Thanks for the info. I updated my back and giggled like a school kid when I took the first image.
I'm almost positive it "wakes up" only when you push the shutter release button. Remember it only takes a few milliseconds to wakeup - the only reason it's necessary with a tech camera and a copal shutter is that otherwise the back has *zero* milliseconds notice, which is too few.Question: When in ES mode, is the sensor always powered, as in zero latency mode, or does it power up when you go to the "camera" screen where the controls are?
The short answer is I do not know for sure. From a sensor point of view the battery life should be similar. However, use wise you will have the screen on far more often (since it's the only means by which you can capture an image or adjust shutter speed).I'm curious what this does with battery life and/or heat vs. normal mode with a technical camera (I use the alpa sync cord so have not been using zero latency).
I'm gonna miss that BZZZZTT sound. Can't they program the back to make that sound, just like a BMW pipes engine noise through its speakers?It's weird capturing an image with a 100mp camera without even a whisper of a noise. Right??
My first "sort of pro" camera was an Olympus E10 that used a rather novel splitter prism rather than a mirror and therefore made no sound. They allowed the selection of several "classic" Olympus cameras to be played over the speaker.I'm gonna miss that BZZZZTT sound. Can't they program the back to make that sound, just like a BMW pipes engine noise through its speakers?
IQ3 100mp only.
Any speed the XF can normally do (e.g. not faster than 1/4000).
Short answer: Yes, 16 bit.
Long answer: All three normal file modes are available (IIQ-L 16 Bit, IIQ-L, IIQ-S). If you select IIQ-L 16 bit that is exactly what you get - the quality of the raw file produced is the same as when using the mechanical shutter.
I started to think about the FPS and the new 'Half' FPS connected to an electronic shutter....($$$$$$$). This, for sure, has taken some of the air out of Alpa's sails. Thank you Phase......:thumbs:Thanks for the info Doug, makes sense.
Not to mention what's Alpa going to do? I think it was half their brand. They even had it on their website for an annoying several years!
Dave
Fire sale...I started to think about the FPS and the new 'Half' FPS connected to an electronic shutter....($$$$$$$). This, for sure, has taken some of the air out of Alpa's sails. Thank you Phase......:thumbs:
And..... its only going to get better.:thumbs:
Victor
I have used it on my arcs rm3dimand it worked very well. It is great not having to use the cables to the flashIs there (will there be) - way to use it on a tech camera ?
That would probably the biggest step forward in ages.
How are you going to set aperture on lenses without a manual aperture ring?I started to think about the FPS and the new 'Half' FPS connected to an electronic shutter....($$$$$$$). This, for sure, has taken some of the air out of Alpa's sails. Thank you Phase......:thumbs:
And..... its only going to get better.:thumbs:
Victor
Hi Doug
Maybe I´m slow, but I need an explanation here:
Your article says: all exposure times for normal shots can be used as with normal shutter - down to 1/4000sec.
that would mean one line of the chip gets at least an exposure of 1/4000sec. over a sync time of 1/125sec. - thus the rolling shutter.
But then the Electronic shutter "with flash" has a synctime of 1.3" (or even longer at high Iso ?) which is much longer than a full rolling shutter readout sync from the FPS or the shorter usable exposure times ?
???
And: Congrats to Phase One about the standardized Dark frame ! That is used in astronomy since (many)years and I asked for this since.....(some)years.
This is definitely the right way to do it, timelapse and many, many other things.
So - TIA for an explanation for the flash sync, so I can sort it out technically.
Regards
Stefan