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Most Used Neutral Density Filters

glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
As I am starting to do more landscape/seascape photography ...I feel a need to build a filter kit to match . I can go either or the two most common approaches ( 1) Screw IN filters ...82mm and 72mm covers most of my Leica S lenses ) or (2) Square Filters and Holder (I have the Wine Country Holder ).

The three most common filters seems to be :

(1) Polarizers ...I am fine with either the WCC POL or a Heliopan 82MM screw in ... Both have advantages and disadvantages .

(2) Graduated ND filters .....these seem to really only be effective in the SQUARE 4x6 form . I like the NISI but am just starting .

(3) IRND filters ....these I have almost no experience . My biggest question is WHAT STRENGTH is required to smooth the water . (assume F11-f13 is optimal ) .

CONTEXT ...Two scenarios represent my applications :

(1) Ocean at the JUNO BEACH PIER (Quick Google and you can see literally hundreds of photos ) ... right now I like the GRAD ND filters for sunrise /sunset ...but not sure about smoothing the water .

(2) IRELAND ..will be going on the IRELAND WORKSHOP with Peter Cox in late AUGUST to West Coast of Ireland .

I realize the square filter systems have much greater flexibility to mix and match filters (POL & GRAD for example )......but the VAR ND 82MM filters are now more readily available and a lot more convenient to just have in the bag .

Apologize for the long post but sometimes the context helps keep the feedback on point .
 

jdphoto

Well-known member
From my experience, I've had good success with the Lee system. I use the Big Stopper (10 stop) for water softening images at sunrise/sunset. It's imperative for an OVF to be closed during the exposure to avoid colorcast (magenta). With an EVF, the simplicity of screw in filters also works well with no need to remove to compose. I found that graduated ND's were used the least as I could create that effect in post production. Good quality filters will be a hedge against color cast. I don't stack as that can lead to vignetting and fewer elements mean sharper images and less chance of reflections within the filter(s). A good set of 3, 6, and 10 stop ND's should suffice in variable light conditions. CCD and CMOS sensors are inherently susceptible to IR contamination, even with sensor glass UV. While in most situations the IR is minor, but increase as a direct correlation to the filter factor. Lee is coming out with a new line of IRND's. Yes, expensive, but might be a good alternative. Although a 100mm (4x4 inch) square filter should cover the larger FL's. You could use a screw in UV filter for protection and mount the Lee system adapter for fast filter changes.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1322440-REG/lee_filters_pgc2166_6_6_proglass_cine_nd.html
 

glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
Good insights . Surprised that Lee s new ND filters will be 4MM (requiring a Schneider Holder or equivalent ) .
 

Shashin

Well-known member
The ND filter I use the most is a Hoya 6-stop version. It results in long enough exposures for me, and I do shoot at f/16, while allowing me to still view, compose, and focus through the view finder. I also have a 9-stop Hoya, which I can just manage to use the viewfinder. 10 stops requires me to remove the filter.

I have found the stronger the filter, the greater the IR contamination. But some filters are better than other with this. I would do some research as companies are coming out with new ND filter designs fairly frequently.

With my optical finder on my Pentax 645D, I need to cap it for very dense filters in the 9-10 stop range or I get light leaks and the metering is thrown. YMMV.

And the question is what does "smooth" water look like. At some point it can go from smooth water to mist. Only experience will let you define that.

All my filters are screw in.
 

dchew

Well-known member
Hoya 6-stop here too. Only ND I carry. In a pinch I can use a polarizer too if I need it. I carry Lee grads, but rarely use them any more unless it is a straight, simple horizon like the ocean.

I love posting right after Will so we get two dogs in a row.

Dave
 
Lee 100mm filter system, with:

2-stop ND grad soft (Lee)
3-stop ND grad reverse (Singh-Ray)
6-stop ND (Lee)
10-stop ND (Lee or Singh-Ray)
15-stop ND (Lee or Singh-Ray)

These 5 pieces cover almost all. Polarizer is optional.
 

Miller

Member
I have done the tour with Peter Cox. You are in for a real treat!
I brought my Lee hard grads and soft grads and used them all the time. I didn't have the big stopper at the time, but I made do with two ND's.
 

glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
Any experience with Vari ND screw in filters . They seem to be releasing 1-5 and 1-6 stop versions that were not available even last year and the prices have come way down to maybe $250 for B&W and Heliopan .

In addition ...remember Breakthrough Technologies filters ...supposed to be the most neutral of any ND filters ....they are on close out all over eBay . Thin mounts ,school glass ,nano coated ,weather sealed .
 

mark1958

Member
I have switched to the Breakthrough Technology ND filters. Really Color neutral. I am not sure what you mean in terms of close out? Do you mean they are going out of business? Mark
Any experience with Vari ND screw in filters . They seem to be releasing 1-5 and 1-6 stop versions that were not available even last year and the prices have come way down to maybe $250 for B&W and Heliopan .

In addition ...remember Breakthrough Technologies filters ...supposed to be the most neutral of any ND filters ....they are on close out all over eBay . Thin mounts ,school glass ,nano coated ,weather sealed .
 

glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
I have switched to the Breakthrough Technology ND filters. Really Color neutral. I am not sure what you mean in terms of close out? Do you mean they are going out of business? Mark
They appear in quantity and cheap on eBay ....thats all I know .
 

cerett

Member
I once had a vari ND filter made by Singh-Ray and absolutely hated it. Ran into all kinds of distortion problems at higher numbers. I have had great luck with Firecrest filters (100 and 150) made by Formatt-Hitech. They seem to have no color cast. I am also using the Lee SW 150 filter holder and filters for my widest lenses. Really like it.

I would strongly recommend 3, 6, and 10 stop ND's to begin with. I use these the most. Then onto 13, 15 or 16 stops, if you really want much longer exposures.

Screw in filters have no problems with light leakage, but I prefer the filter holders because I can easily remove them to re-focus or check exposure. I am a klutz when it comes to unscrewing filters and holding on to them.

On my Hasselblad, I do try to cover the OVF, but have occasionally forgotten. Interesting, in those situations, I have never had a problem (so far).

How do you like the Wine Country set-up?
 
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glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
I must be missing something about the strength of the ND ...can t imagine a situation I would be in where I would need more than 10X and thats a stretch ..with landscape I generally want as much DOF as I can get so I am working at F11-f13 and can easily go to F16 without degrading IQ .

So I must be missing something about how you would plan to use ND filters darker than a Big Stopper ?

I do see the issue with the screw in filters being too dark to focus ....they would only be useful to me if I could leave them on and that would rule out darker than maybe even 6X .
 
Any experience with Vari ND screw in filters . They seem to be releasing 1-5 and 1-6 stop versions that were not available even last year and the prices have come way down to maybe $250 for B&W and Heliopan .

In addition ...remember Breakthrough Technologies filters ...supposed to be the most neutral of any ND filters ....they are on close out all over eBay . Thin mounts ,school glass ,nano coated ,weather sealed .
Not sure about today, but when I started playing with filters, variable ND was problematic when stacked with other filters such like ND grad or polarizer. Feel free to try out today's options and do give us some feedback!

I must be missing something about the strength of the ND ...can t imagine a situation I would be in where I would need more than 10X and thats a stretch ..with landscape I generally want as much DOF as I can get so I am working at F11-f13 and can easily go to F16 without degrading IQ .

So I must be missing something about how you would plan to use ND filters darker than a Big Stopper ?

I do see the issue with the screw in filters being too dark to focus ....they would only be useful to me if I could leave them on and that would rule out darker than maybe even 6X .
It's just of personal preference if one wants to expose for longer.

15 stops: example 1, example 2
20 stops: example 1
 

glenerrolrd

Workshop Member
Not sure about today, but when I started playing with filters, variable ND was problematic when stacked with other filters such like ND grad or polarizer. Feel free to try out today's options and do give us some feedback!



It's just of personal preference if one wants to expose for longer.

15 stops: example 1, example 2
20 stops: example 1
Wow great examples ..very well done . Thank You
 

cerett

Member
Not sure about today, but when I started playing with filters, variable ND was problematic when stacked with other filters such like ND grad or polarizer. Feel free to try out today's options and do give us some feedback!



It's just of personal preference if one wants to expose for longer.

15 stops: example 1, example 2
20 stops: example 1
Very nice images! I find that much depends on the time of day. At sunrise and sunset, at the seashore, I find little use for more than 10 stops, especially if I am shooting at f/11-16. However, I like having the 13 and 15 stop ND's in my bag, but so far rarely use them.

Although much is made of doing everything in post, I may give my graduated ND's some exercise under the right circumstances.

Can you share what filter system you are using?
 
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JohnBrew

Active member
I use mostly Formatt-Hitech for .3, .6, .9, 1.8, 3.0 ND's and CP's.
I also have several Breakthrough ND's, but had an issue - sent an email and never a response. I have compared the Formatt vs. the Breakthrough and while the Breakthrough has those nice ridges which help to grip the filter, I believe the Formatt to be the better filter (they are both very good). I also find the Breakthrough to be overpriced, IMO.
BTW, Formatt now has a US branch so delivery is within a week.
 

algrove

Well-known member
I use mostly Formatt-Hitech for .3, .6, .9, 1.8, 3.0 ND's and CP's.
I also have several Breakthrough ND's, but had an issue - sent an email and never a response. I have compared the Formatt vs. the Breakthrough and while the Breakthrough has those nice ridges which help to grip the filter, I believe the Formatt to be the better filter (they are both very good). I also find the Breakthrough to be overpriced, IMO.
BTW, Formatt now has a US branch so delivery is within a week.
Are you using the 3.0 very often? Of course answer depends on when and where.

Are many people I sing Nisi filters?
 

Hausen

Active member
I am a Long Exposure guy so I carry a 10 stop, Variable 1-7 stop and a 3 stop all screw on 82mm. I don't like the square ones much (Have a set of Lee stoppers) but I find they act a little like a wind sail and it is windy here in NZ. I was totally a B+W guy but have recently got a set of Benro NDs and for the price they are superb. A lot more neutral than B+W, nice and thin well. Even the variable is remarkably thin.
 

bab

Active member
As I am starting to do more landscape/seascape photography ...I feel a need to build a filter kit to match . I can go either or the two most common approaches ( 1) Screw IN filters ...82mm and 72mm covers most of my Leica S lenses ) or (2) Square Filters and Holder (I have the Wine Country Holder ).

The three most common filters seems to be :

(1) Polarizers ...I am fine with either the WCC POL or a Heliopan 82MM screw in ... Both have advantages and disadvantages .

(2) Graduated ND filters .....these seem to really only be effective in the SQUARE 4x6 form . I like the NISI but am just starting .

(3) IRND filters ....these I have almost no experience . My biggest question is WHAT STRENGTH is required to smooth the water . (assume F11-f13 is optimal ) .

CONTEXT ...Two scenarios represent my applications :

(1) Ocean at the JUNO BEACH PIER (Quick Google and you can see literally hundreds of photos ) ... right now I like the GRAD ND filters for sunrise /sunset ...but not sure about smoothing the water .

(2) IRELAND ..will be going on the IRELAND WORKSHOP with Peter Cox in late AUGUST to West Coast of Ireland .

I realize the square filter systems have much greater flexibility to mix and match filters (POL & GRAD for example )......but the VAR ND 82MM filters are now more readily available and a lot more convenient to just have in the bag .

Apologize for the long post but sometimes the context helps keep the feedback on point .
Glenn
Get the 15 stop if you need to smooth the water...but not sure hoe smooth if you mean ethereal looking you need over a 4 min exposure. The ten stop won't cut it in daylight.
.9 grad
.9 reverse grad
10 stop
16 stop
Polar 150 x150
CC40M imperative on a Hasselblad to hold back the green channel until Hasselblad offers a pro solution to white balance the sensor!
All Formatt Hitect nano Ir 150 x 170mm I also have a complete set of Lee resin filters I prefer the Hitech glass ones with the nano coating.
Never covered the OVF on my Hasselblad either never had an issue

BUT watch out shooting into the sun that your polo is place exactly right or you get a red ring on image.


I'm awaiting the Wine Country filter holder for 150 x 170 but I guess they wanted to only release one fo the 100 mm squares ? Can't use the 100 square on a wide angle lens very well!
 
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