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Hasselblad “H” hard shell case

ChrisLivsey

New member
Standard item in the UK Hasselblad Price List:
3043410 Hasselblad High Performance Case £265.00 ex VAT (sales tax)
Any Hasselblad dealer can order or may have stock.
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Standard item in the UK Hasselblad Price List:
3043410 Hasselblad High Performance Case £265.00 ex VAT (sales tax)
Any Hasselblad dealer can order or may have stock.
Yes, that is the way to get one, I recall seeing it on the Capture Integration website.

I would love one!!!

But IIRC, it is the Pelican 1550 or a smaller case minus branding. I will probably just get the 1550 or similar case, however it will not be as cool as having the big H branding!
 
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dave.gt

Well-known member
Upon further thought about the H case...
Does anyone know if the foam has a template for making the fitting of one's kit easier?
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
OK,

I went to the MCB site and I am impressed. Thanks again, Ken. I now have more questions about the foam. I have no idea which foam in in the Hasselblad case, but the MCB site gives the option of polyurethane or polyethylene.

For a delicate DSLR, which foam is preferred? I have read that the pluck and pick type foam degrades and causes a problem. What is the time frame for degradation and having to deal with particles on one's gear? If it is ok for a few years, a replacement foam is not that expensive. But if it starts out that way, how big of a problem is it?

Anyone with experience in their own foam selection?
 

steve_cor

Member
My Case builder site gives the option of polyethylene or polyurethane.

They say Polyethylene is: good for objects that can absorb a modest amount of shock without being damaged (example: electric drill).

Polyethylene makes quality foams, though expensive. It is rougher, but I don't think it will scratch equipment. So, if your case gets dropped, the lenses are being dropped too, but not as hard.


They say Polyurethane is:

* Good for more delicate objects that may break on modest impact (example: crystal stemware).
* Good for irregularly-shaped objects (example: digital SLR camera).

I have had my Pelican case with the pick and pluck foam in it for about 10 years. It is still intact and does not get onto the equipment.

Polyurethane foam is notorious for turning into goo and / or powder after a while, also apparently releasing Volatile organic compounds (VOC's) in the process. It can completely destroy the items, such as expensive optics, it was originally intended to protect. And it can disintegrate rather suddenly.

I've had the same experience discussed above with the gray open-cell foam used in old cases - it deteriorates and turns to sticky gritty dust after 10 or 15 years - a mess to get off things.

Ozone is pretty much everywhere and it is a very potent oxidizer. It is generated in quite large quantities in sunny cities and forms an oxidizing smog. In areas of high ozone concentration, such as Phoenix, Los Angeles and Vancouver, foam stuff dies quickly. If you live in a city that has low sunshine hours, the foam will last for quite a while.

I think you are good with Polyurethane as long as you check it, and replace it every 10 years or so.




--Steve.
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
My Case builder site gives the option of polyethylene or polyurethane.

They say Polyethylene is: good for objects that can absorb a modest amount of shock without being damaged (example: electric drill).

Polyethylene makes quality foams, though expensive. It is rougher, but I don't think it will scratch equipment. So, if your case gets dropped, the lenses are being dropped too, but not as hard.


They say Polyurethane is:

* Good for more delicate objects that may break on modest impact (example: crystal stemware).
* Good for irregularly-shaped objects (example: digital SLR camera).

I have had my Pelican case with the pick and pluck foam in it for about 10 years. It is still intact and does not get onto the equipment.

Polyurethane foam is notorious for turning into goo and / or powder after a while, also apparently releasing Volatile organic compounds (VOC's) in the process. It can completely destroy the items, such as expensive optics, it was originally intended to protect. And it can disintegrate rather suddenly.

I've had the same experience discussed above with the gray open-cell foam used in old cases - it deteriorates and turns to sticky gritty dust after 10 or 15 years - a mess to get off things.

Ozone is pretty much everywhere and it is a very potent oxidizer. It is generated in quite large quantities in sunny cities and forms an oxidizing smog. In areas of high ozone concentration, such as Phoenix, Los Angeles and Vancouver, foam stuff dies quickly. If you live in a city that has low sunshine hours, the foam will last for quite a while.

I think you are good with Polyurethane as long as you check it, and replace it every 10 years or so.




--Steve.
Thanks, Steve,

It appears that polyurethane is the way to go... with a replacement every five years. I am good with that!:):):)
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Thanks, Steve,

It appears that polyurethane is the way to go... with a replacement every five years. I am good with that!:):):)
Following up on the custom case template... does anyone have a picture they would like to share shwing their hard case with camera/lens/batteries, etc. in place? What does one do with battery charger/cables/misc. items?

1510LFC Protector - Travel Case | Laptop Case | Pelican Professional

The Pelican 1510 case offers a laptop option which has storage in the lid and appears to be adequate for all the other stuff one needs. Or am I mistaken?:)
 

thrice

Active member
Is the custom foam configurator working for others? I get redirected to 192.168.1.2 which is obviously not where the website is meant to be :cry:
 
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