GFX focal length gap ...

[Wayne Fox]

So I don't see anything in Fuji's timeline to address the large focal length gap between the 63mm to 110mm. I opted for the 120 macro so the gap is even wider.

I've thrown my HC 50-110 in the bag, it performs decently well, but obviously it's a heavy lens, which contradicts one of the reasons I decided to try out the GFX. What I would really like is a 85-90mm lens that performs well and is decently small and light. I've poured through quite a few threads, and will continue to keep looking, but wondering if anyone has tried anything or seen anything posted about filling in the gap.

 

[danlindberg]

Just guessing here, and not quite the focal you are looking for, but I would 'think' a Cfi 100/3.5 would do wonders on a GFX for thoughtful landscape work.

 

[algrove]

For the time being, using your legs might fill the gap in lens FL you are discussing.

 

[Miller]

Perhaps buy a secondhand HC 80? They are not too expensive and not nearly as heavy as the HC 50-110.

 

[hcubell]

Perhaps buy a secondhand HC 80? They are not too expensive and not nearly as heavy as the HC 50-110.

I agree. If the X1D did not have the XCD 90mm lens available, I would use either my HC 80mm or the HC 100mm. The HC 80mm is quite small and light. If you are interested in the HC 80mm, please PM me.

 

[tcdeveau]

I'd also think a HC 80mm would be the way to go. As others have mentioned this would be a rather cost effective solution to fill the gap.

It's surprising that in the April 2017 GF roadmap they've got a telephoto prime and a teleconverter, when I'd think filling the 63-110mm gap would be a bigger priority. Personally, I'd love to see them come out with something like a 50-100mm or 50-110mm zoom, as long as they could make it smaller/lighter than the HC 50-110mm. That'd make for a pretty killer two lens kit with the 32-64mm for travel landscape IMHO, which of course could then be supplemented by the 23mm and 120mm.

 

[Paul2660]

Has anyone used the Fuji HFX HC adapter?

As most the HC80mm lenses for sale are AF I am curious how you've supposed to get the Lens into MF mode to use with the Fuji adapter?

It appears the Fuji adapter controls the aperture and Leaf shutter in ththe lens.

Paul Caldwell

 

[tcdeveau]

Has anyone used the Fuji HFX HC adapter?

As most the HC80mm lenses for sale are AF I am curious how you've supposed to get the Lens into MF mode to use with the Fuji adapter?

It appears the Fuji adapter controls the aperture and Leaf shutter in ththe lens.

Paul Caldwell

Hi Paul,
The HC lenses aren't fly by wire, so I imagine you'd just pop it on there and turn the focus ring. Or set the camera to MF? Idk, I'm also curious
-Todd

 

[Wayne Fox]

For the time being, using your legs might fill the gap in lens FL you are discussing.

Certainly that may work some of the time, but typically I use my legs to find a composition and perspective that I like before I set up the gear, so I'm intending to capture what I see from the location I spent my time searching for. And of course, often a cliff, lake, or some other obstacle gets in the way.

Stitching the 120 will work some of the time. The reason I asked is my favorite lens on my tech system is the Rodenstock 70, which would require a 90mm on the GFX for the same fov. On the Phase XF, I find I'm using the upper end of the 40-80 zoom, so a similar fov.

80mm might be OK, but that's only 17mm larger than the 63. Might be the best choice if I need to lighten the bag and drop out the 50-110.

Has anyone used the Fuji HFX HC adapter?

As most the HC80mm lenses for sale are AF I am curious how you've supposed to get the Lens into MF mode to use with the Fuji adapter?

It appears the Fuji adapter controls the aperture and Leaf shutter in ththe lens.

Paul Caldwell

Did you mean the GFX HC adaptor? I have the adaptor and have used it with the HC 50-110 as well as the 210. I've also tried it with the 210+1.7 extender. All worked fine, pretty easy to focus and results seem OK, but all I've looked at so far is middle sharpness. I think there is a setting in the body that is used enable the leaf shutter, I don't know if that is a default or if I was using the focal plane shutter which I had set to EFC mode.

 

[chrismuc]

You could use one of the upcoming Fuji G - Contax 645 af adapters and the Contax 645 80f2 to cover the space between the Fuji GF 63f2.8 and the GF 110f2 resp. the 120f4 and the Contax 35f3.5 to cover the space between the GF 23f4 and the upcoming GF 45f2.8.

 

[jng]

Just guessing here, and not quite the focal you are looking for, but I would 'think' a Cfi 100/3.5 would do wonders on a GFX for thoughtful landscape work.

I second that - the 100/3.5 is superb, sharp from corner to corner on a full frame 60 Mp sensor and excellent for landscapes.

John

 

[Shashin]

The only 90mm medium format lens I know of was built by Pentax for their 67 cameras. I used to have a Pentax 105mm 67 lens for my Pentax 645D. It worked fairly well, but I exchanged the for the 645 120mm Marco. How good the 90mm 67 lens is, I have no idea, but they are not expensive. There is a Pentax 645 45-85mm zoom that could be adapted, but others will have to tell you how well it works at 85mm. If you are using these lenses for landscape and are stopping down to f/11 or so, these lenses might be one solution. With 6x6 cameras having an 80mm normal, 90mm medium-format lenses are hard to find.

I am not sure if this would vignette, but the Nikkor 85mm T/S lens could be an interesting solution.

 

[mark1958]

Jim Kasson has used number of long focal length third party lens on the GFX system. I have gotten nice results with the Zeiss 135mm f2 Apo-Sonnar. Mild vignetting that clears up at about f4.5.

http://blog.kasson.com/?s=Fuji

 

[PSon]

If the determinant factor to add a third party lens to the Fuji GFX lens' gap is light weight, then the Hasselblad 645 "Fujion" 80mm F2.8 HC lens is the one. This lens is quite sharp, compact and light weight. It also functions as a leaf shutter if you activate it in the GFX-50s. This lens is also cost effective since you already own the Fuji adapter. I myself also have the Contax 645 and Hasselblad V Zeiss 80mm lens but I cannot recommend you this route unless you are willing to buy another expensive adapter when the resolution is not any higher; if anything it might be a tad below with more fringing too. Albeit there is a color difference in the Fujinon and Zeiss on the GFX-50s sensor but it may not be an important factor in your workflow. If you want to go a little longer, the Hasselblad 645 "Fujinon" 100mm F2.2 HC lens could be an option, but this lens is 2-3 times more expensive and heavier than the 80mm lens. There are other lens that I can recommend but based on your current setup without too much alteration, the Hasselblad 645 "Fujinon" 80mm F2.8 HC lens is a good option.

 

[Wayne Fox]

I am not sure if this would vignette, but the Nikkor 85mm T/S lens could be an interesting solution.

Interesting. It may work since most of the tilt shifts don't vignette much on the 44x33 sensor size. Focal length is about right. Worth checking out. thx.

 

[algrove]

Certainly that may work some of the time, but typically I use my legs to find a composition and perspective that I like before I set up the gear, so I'm intending to capture what I see from the location I spent my time searching for. And of course, often a cliff, lake, or some other obstacle gets in the way.

Stitching the 120 will work some of the time. The reason I asked is my favorite lens on my tech system is the Rodenstock 70, which would require a 90mm on the GFX for the same fov. On the Phase XF, I find I'm using the upper end of the 40-80 zoom, so a similar fov.

80mm might be OK, but that's only 17mm larger than the 63. Might be the best choice if I need to lighten the bag and drop out the 50-110.


Did you mean the GFX HC adaptor? I have the adaptor and have used it with the HC 50-110 as well as the 210. I've also tried it with the 210+1.7 extender. All worked fine, pretty easy to focus and results seem OK, but all I've looked at so far is middle sharpness. I think there is a setting in the body that is used enable the leaf shutter, I don't know if that is a default or if I was using the focal plane shutter which I had set to EFC mode.

Wayne
It must be GAS because in my mind (and my perhaps faulty calculations) looking at 35mm equivalents on the 3 systems you mention: the 63 on the GFX is 50mm, the HR70 on the IQ3100 is 45mm and the 80 on the XF with the IQ3100 is again 50mm. Are you about a 50mm guy? Where am I getting this wrong? Maybe you don't have an IQ3100.

 

[gerald.d]

Interesting. It may work since most of the tilt shifts don't vignette much on the 44x33 sensor size. Focal length is about right. Worth checking out. thx.

There's also the Canon 90mm TS-E to consider.

Not sure if the Fuji-Canon converters can control the focus by wire lenses such as the EF 85/1.2? If not, perhaps the FD mount version of that lens might suffice.

The EF version should cover the sensor comfortably (I've never had the opportunity to check out the FD). Here it is on an IQ180 -

Kind regards,


Gerald.

 

[Wayne Fox]

There's also the Canon 90mm TS-E to consider.

Worth testing, I actually have one of those laying around in my closet. Also considering adding the Canon 17mm t/s so this would make a nice solution.

Wayne
It must be GAS because in my mind (and my perhaps faulty calculations) looking at 35mm equivalents on the 3 systems you mention: the 63 on the GFX is 50mm, the HR70 on the IQ3100 is 45mm and the 80 on the XF with the IQ3100 is again 50mm. Are you about a 50mm guy? Where am I getting this wrong? Maybe you don't have an IQ3100.

The crop factor of the GFX vs the IQ3 100 is 1.3. I assume this means a 70mm on the IQ3 100 requires a 70*1.3 lens, which is 91mm.

 

[jng]

The crop factor of the GFX vs the IQ3 100 is 1.3. I assume this means a 70mm on the IQ3 100 requires a 70*1.3 lens, which is 91mm.

Wayne,

It's actually the other way around, so 70/1.3 = 54. In other words, you need a shorter lens on the crop sensor to obtain the equivalent field of view.

Cheers,

John

 

[Wayne Fox]

Wayne,

It's actually the other way around, so 70/1.3 = 54. In other words, you need a shorter lens on the crop sensor to obtain the equivalent field of view.

Cheers,

John

:facesmack:

It's been so long since I dealt with crop factors I didn't think this through.

The gap remains a challenge for me however since my 3rd favorite lens is my Schneider 120, which appears to be a 90 mm equivalent. Hopefully the canon 90mm t/s covers and is decently sharp.