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Schneider 60mm f5.6 Apo-Digitar with CMOS backs?

epforever

Member
A couple of questions about this lens:

1) I'm considering getting a used one for my Alpa Max with H5D50 (CCD) back. If and when I upgrade to a CMOS sensor, will this lens work well with it? I know some Schneiders have exhibited problems and have led users to upgrade to Rodenstock HR lenses.

2) What do you think is a fair price for a used one, in an Alpa mount with an HPF ring? How much did they sell for new, in Alpa mount?

thanks
ethan
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
Just a quick note that the question isn't "Schneider 60mm f5.6 Apo-Digitar with CMOS backs?" it is "Schneider 60mm with [x] back in [y] software with [z] shift?".

As noted above by Stanley Goldberg it works quite well with the P1 100mp with Capture One. However, tech cameras are a high priority at Phase One R+D and a tremendous amount of effort went into improving the LCC tool in Capture One for the 100mp sensor. Our Phase One 100mp tech camera tests show that combination works very well. But since Capture One cannot be used with Hasselblad products you should test whichever specific back and software you are considering with that lens or rely on feedback/testing others have done with that specific back/software combo.
 

epforever

Member
Just a quick note that the question isn't "Schneider 60mm f5.6 Apo-Digitar with CMOS backs?" it is "Schneider 60mm with [x] back in [y] software with [z] shift?".

As noted above by Stanley Goldberg it works quite well with the P1 100mp with Capture One. However, tech cameras are a high priority at Phase One R+D and a tremendous amount of effort went into improving the LCC tool in Capture One for the 100mp sensor. Our Phase One 100mp tech camera tests show that combination works very well. But since Capture One cannot be used with Hasselblad products you should test whichever specific back and software you are considering with that lens or rely on feedback/testing others have done with that specific back/software combo.
Good point, Doug. Thus far I've been very happy with the LCC implementation in Phocus. But I do understand that there are a lot of variables here, and that it would be wiser to have an answer from someone with more specific apples-to-apples experience.

Is anyone out there using the Schneider 60mm on a Hasselblad CMOS back?

thanks
ethan
 

dchew

Well-known member
Ethan,
I second what Stanley and Doug said. I have the same back/lens combo as Stanley, and have no issues shifting 18mm horizontally, which uses 98mm of image circle. On a 44x33 sensor that is like shifting 24mm.

In general, there was a big improvement in Capture One's LCC algorithm somewhere around the v10 release (I don't remember when exactly). So I agree with Doug: You really don't know for sure until you try back, lens and software together. I will see if my dealer has a back. Maybe I can run a test over the weekend.

How far would you shift? With the STC I can only do 18mm unless I find a Max somewhere.

Dave
 

epforever

Member
Ethan,
I second what Stanley and Doug said. I have the same back/lens combo as Stanley, and have no issues shifting 18mm horizontally, which uses 98mm of image circle. On a 44x33 sensor that is like shifting 24mm.

In general, there was a big improvement in Capture One's LCC algorithm somewhere around the v10 release (I don't remember when exactly). So I agree with Doug: You really don't know for sure until you try back, lens and software together. I will see if my dealer has a back. Maybe I can run a test over the weekend.

How far would you shift? With the STC I can only do 18mm unless I find a Max somewhere.

Dave
Dave -- I think 18mm would be fine for my purposes. That's as far as the Max goes laterally and downwards, and thus far I've never shifted more than that upwards.

If you're able to run a test, that would be extremely helpful. At this point I don't have the lens or the CMOS back. If you are able to do a test and haven't used Phocus before, creating an LCC ("Scene Calibration") is easy. Once you have your LCC shot (through white plastic), in the Adjust tab/panel, check the box on the upper right of the Scene Calibration tool to make it active. Click Create, name it, and click Create. Make sure the boxes are checked for Remove Cast and Equalize Intensity. And it's done. Now, you can go to your shifted image and choose the Scene Calibration you just created.

Let me know if you end up being able to run a test. Thanks very much.

ethan
 

dchew

Well-known member
Dave -- I think 18mm would be fine for my purposes. That's as far as the Max goes laterally and downwards, and thus far I've never shifted more than that upwards.

If you're able to run a test, that would be extremely helpful. At this point I don't have the lens or the CMOS back. If you are able to do a test and haven't used Phocus before, creating an LCC ("Scene Calibration") is easy. Once you have your LCC shot (through white plastic), in the Adjust tab/panel, check the box on the upper right of the Scene Calibration tool to make it active. Click Create, name it, and click Create. Make sure the boxes are checked for Remove Cast and Equalize Intensity. And it's done. Now, you can go to your shifted image and choose the Scene Calibration you just created.

Let me know if you end up being able to run a test. Thanks very much.

ethan
Ok, Denny @ Dodd is checking to see if he can find the HB Alpa adapter. If he does then we should be good, except it won't happen this weekend; next weekend because the H50c is in Cincinnati right now. As for Phocus, couldn't I just take the images and send them to you as-is, without having to go through downloading and installing Phocus on my machine? Then you could also see them without the LCC applied. I assume like P1, you want the LCC to be bright but not over-exposed anywhere, like top 1/3 of the histogram?

Dave
 

epforever

Member
Ok, Denny @ Dodd is checking to see if he can find the HB Alpa adapter. If he does then we should be good, except it won't happen this weekend; next weekend because the H50c is in Cincinnati right now. As for Phocus, couldn't I just take the images and send them to you as-is, without having to go through downloading and installing Phocus on my machine? Then you could also see them without the LCC applied. I assume like P1, you want the LCC to be bright but not over-exposed anywhere, like top 1/3 of the histogram?

Dave
Right -- yes, of course, just send me the raws via wetransfer or anything else. Email is [email protected]. Yes, top 1/3 of histogram is great. I think two files would be fine: unshifted, and shifted 18mm.

In the meantime, I'll see if there's anyone in L.A. with the same gear, so perhaps I can save you the trouble. Will let you know.
 
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