Lenses for Linhof Techno or Arca Swiss M Line 2/Universalis

[Landscapelover]

Hi,

Is there any Linhof Techno or Arca Swiss M Line 2/Universalis users around here? I am wondering what lenses you've used with them (especially longer lenses and non-digital lenses).

Thank you,

Pramote

 

[tjv]

I've used a Linhof Techno pretty much exclusively for six years, first with a roll film back and now also a Leaf Credo 60 and sliding back.

I have used only Rodenstock lenses (although was leant the SK60mm XL for a short time when I first bought the kit,) including the 90mm HR-W, 70mm HR-W and 55mm APO–SD.

The 90mm was awesome on both film and digital, but had a really bad tendency to flare and create a really hazy central part to the image if not using a hood, especially on overcast days. Using the hood, it was awesome across the field.

70mm HR-W is stunning, and even covers 6x7cm film with generous movements. This really surprised me considering its published IC and the hard disk, but there you go. I was pleasantly surprised!

55mm APO-SD is a great lens on film, and above average lens on digital. I think I have a pretty good copy, and use it almost exclusively with a centre filter. IMO, the filter is pretty much essential if doing pano stitches, which is what I use it mostly for. I only take it off when exposure times get really long, as without it noise it drastically increased after applying the LCC. (The SK 60mm was stunning and certainly better than my RS 55mm, but by how much I don't know. I couldn't see any difference on film.)

I think the Techno is an incredibly underrated camera; a wonderful tool and a joy to use. I love using the GG and have absolutely no problem focusing with it, except in very specific scenarios, like extremely dark environments or when focusing on flat surfaces like walls with minimal details to find focus on. In those scenarios though, if possible, I use some low tack masking tape and stick it to a surface, find focus on that, then remove it for the exposure. Not possible all the time, but works well for me 99% of the time I find myself struggling.

I'm sorry, but I've not used longer lenses on my Techno, but Anders Torger has written extensively on the subject. Maybe you have PM him and ask him to chime in here?

TJV

 

[Landscapelover]

I've used a Linhof Techno pretty much exclusively for six years, first with a roll film back and now also a Leaf Credo 60 and sliding back.

I have used only Rodenstock lenses (although was leant the SK60mm XL for a short time when I first bought the kit,) including the 90mm HR-W, 70mm HR-W and 55mm APO–SD.

The 90mm was awesome on both film and digital, but had a really bad tendency to flare and create a really hazy central part to the image if not using a hood, especially on overcast days. Using the hood, it was awesome across the field.

70mm HR-W is stunning, and even covers 6x7cm film with generous movements. This really surprised me considering its published IC and the hard disk, but there you go. I was pleasantly surprised!

55mm APO-SD is a great lens on film, and above average lens on digital. I think I have a pretty good copy, and use it almost exclusively with a centre filter. IMO, the filter is pretty much essential if doing pano stitches, which is what I use it mostly for. I only take it off when exposure times get really long, as without it noise it drastically increased after applying the LCC. (The SK 60mm was stunning and certainly better than my RS 55mm, but by how much I don't know. I couldn't see any difference on film.)

I think the Techno is an incredibly underrated camera; a wonderful tool and a joy to use. I love using the GG and have absolutely no problem focusing with it, except in very specific scenarios, like extremely dark environments or when focusing on flat surfaces like walls with minimal details to find focus on. In those scenarios though, if possible, I use some low tack masking tape and stick it to a surface, find focus on that, then remove it for the exposure. Not possible all the time, but works well for me 99% of the time I find myself struggling.

I'm sorry, but I've not used longer lenses on my Techno, but Anders Torger has written extensively on the subject. Maybe you have PM him and ask him to chime in here?

TJV

Thanks very much TJV for your thoughtful insight!

I've found I really enjoyed using view camera and plan to use more in the future. Although it's slow and, at times, cumbersome, the process is very pleasurable. It's the closest to the 4x5 which I love.

I also use technical camera which I like for wide angle lenses. However, I don't like using it with longer lenses which requires long tubes. I would like to use the view camera for this purpose.

Yes, I've read Anders Torger's review. I think it's one of the best camera reviews I've ever read.

I hope I will hear more from people who use these cameras to share their experiences although there are probably not many people using them.

Thanks again,

Pramote

 

[JohnL]

Hi Pramote,

Anders Torger's wonderful review convinced me to purchase my Techno four years ago.

My present lens arsenal consists of SK Apo-Digitars 47XL 5.6, 120N 5.6, 150N 5.6, 180T 5.6, Rodies 40 HR-W, 70 HR-W, 90 HR-W, and a Fujinon 300 T F8 just now conscripted from my 4x5 kit.

The longer SK's (120, 150, 180) are optically excellent with my IQ180, although perhaps just a hair less stellar than the Rodies. The Fujinon is a little softer than the others when pixel peeping, but still more than adequate. Its flange-focal length is 210mm, which allows the Techno with its max extension of 250mm to focus to about 12 feet. It also is mounted in a "little" Copal 0 shutter, whereas lenses like the SK 210T 6.8 and Nikkor T-ED 270 6.3 are mounted in Copal 1 shutters.

If I hadn’t already had the Fujinon T I would have invested in the Nikkor T - likely a bit better image quality than the Fujinon.

On my Fujinon, I do seem to see some shutter vibration effects in images between 1/8 sec and 1/125 sec. which I’ve mitigated by using a small, very light monopod as a support at the end of the Techno extension. The monopod does not go to the ground, but rather to an Oben plastic tripod accessory hammock on the tripod legs. Very quick to set up and use, and allows for minor focus adjustments.

Regards, John

 

[Landscapelover]

Dear John,

Thanks very much for this exciting information!

This is exactly what I want to achieve from the digital view camera, wide range of lenses, especially long lenses. The information regarding the 300mm is very interesting to me.

I've had a lot of 4x5 lenses. Although I know their IQ is not as good as the digital lenses, some lenses have characters I like.

I've just bought the Rodenstock 210mm lens (labelled as Sinaron se) and the quality is fantastic with the wall I will bring it to test for fall color very soon.

I've had both the Techno and M Line 2 (crazy but love both of them). I've just bought the long bellow for the ML2 (on the way) which can be used with the Nikon T ED 720mm lens (I was told by a guru, Rod Klukas). I've only had the 360 and 500mm. These would be the next lenses I will try.

Again, I really appreciate your comment. It's very difficult to find pictures or information regarding these digital view cameras. I hope we can have a community of the digital view camera users at GetDPI (only place I've actively participated), either 4x5 or 6x9.

Best regards,

Pramote

Hi Pramote,

Anders Torger's wonderful review convinced me to purchase my Techno four years ago.

My present lens arsenal consists of SK Apo-Digitars 47XL 5.6, 120N 5.6, 150N 5.6, 180T 5.6, Rodies 40 HR-W, 70 HR-W, 90 HR-W, and a Fujinon 300 T F8 just now conscripted from my 4x5 kit.

The longer SK's (120, 150, 180) are optically excellent with my IQ180, although perhaps just a hair less stellar than the Rodies. The Fujinon is a little softer than the others when pixel peeping, but still more than adequate. Its flange-focal length is 210mm, which allows the Techno with its max extension of 250mm to focus to about 12 feet. It also is mounted in a "little" Copal 0 shutter, whereas lenses like the SK 210T 6.8 and Nikkor T-ED 270 6.3 are mounted in Copal 1 shutters.

If I hadn’t already had the Fujinon T I would have invested in the Nikkor T - likely a bit better image quality than the Fujinon.

On my Fujinon, I do seem to see some shutter vibration effects in images between 1/8 sec and 1/125 sec. which I’ve mitigated by using a small, very light monopod as a support at the end of the Techno extension. The monopod does not go to the ground, but rather to an Oben plastic tripod accessory hammock on the tripod legs. Very quick to set up and use, and allows for minor focus adjustments.

Regards, John

 

[Landscapelover]

Line

I really hope you didn't mean to exclude the numerous Cambo users here as the Cambo is no different than either the Techno or M Line 2 in that it is a bellows camera adapted to the digital domain. You mentioned you didn't like tubes on pancake cameras but no matter what you have to get to FFD to reach infinity and that means space either with tubes or bellows. The beauty of a bellows system is that the lenses are lighter as they don't require a helical and are more numerous and are more centered on the front standard which results in a much more 'Yaw Free' environment. I haven't tried any of the really long lenses (longer than 180mm). What I have found is that even at 180mm focus is extremely critical and sometimes difficult. A very sturdy tripod is required (Gitzo 3 for sure) and the head should be sturdy but not as critical as the tripod. You will go nuts when you try to focus in live view on a 3100 with any camera movement on an object that is a mile or more away. Absolutely nothing can move and that means you and your loupe against the DB. It really does require a little practice to get perfect focus.

I'm sure you will have fun with any endeavor.

Victor

Hi Victor,

You're right. I should have included Cambo Actus users. I forgot about it as I've never owned or even tried it. I've just known the Techno and ML2 are very solid and well-built platforms.

I've also used the technical camera with the shorter lenses (23, 32, 40, 60, 70, 90, 120) but found out it'd be a pain with the longer ones.

Focusing by the IQ3100 live view for the 210mm is surprisingly easy even with naked eyes (I've used the Gitzo tripod for my 600mm lens) under control environment. In the field, I most likely need a dark clothes or loupe (when testing, I couldn't locate them due to recent home revovation) and the wind will be a big issue. The image is very sharp with the pictures taken around the house

I am very excited to learn at least it works very well with the Rodie 180 (digital) and 210mm (analog) lenses under controlled environment. The next steps will be field test, longer lenses and macro photography.

Thank you very much for your comment.

Best

Pramote

 

[vjbelle]

Hi,

Is there any Linhof Techno or Arca Swiss M Line 2/Universalis users around here? I am wondering what lenses you've used with them (especially longer lenses and non-digital lenses).

Thank you,

Pramote

I deleted my original post and maybe shouldn't have...... Most importantly is that focusing with a bellows system and longer lenses really requires a lot of patience and practice. I can't stress enough that 'Nothing Can Move' and that means mostly the camera on the tripod. Something a mile away when viewed in live view will just become a moving blur if the camera has any movement. I use a Peak Loupe with my 3100 and have practiced applying almost 'no' pressure against the LCD on my 3100 so that the camera/back doesn't move. Try doing that when the temperature is 30 and wind is 30 mph and the bellows is ready to take to flight mode! That's how it is in the real photo world - at least for me.

Anyway..... best of luck. Really like your images..... I'm off to the Dolomites and Tuscany soon so will get to apply all of my disciplines to my shooting.

Victor

 

[Landscapelover]

I deleted my original post and maybe shouldn't have...... Most importantly is that focusing with a bellows system and longer lenses really requires a lot of patience and practice. I can't stress enough that 'Nothing Can Move' and that means mostly the camera on the tripod. Something a mile away when viewed in live view will just become a moving blur if the camera has any movement. I use a Peak Loupe with my 3100 and have practiced applying almost 'no' pressure against the LCD on my 3100 so that the camera/back doesn't move. Try doing that when the temperature is 30 and wind is 30 mph and the bellows is ready to take to flight mode! That's how it is in the real photo world - at least for me.

Anyway..... best of luck. Really like your images..... I'm off to the Dolomites and Tuscany soon so will get to apply all of my disciplines to my shooting.

Victor

Hi Victor,

Thank you very much for your comment. I really appreciate it. Look at the IQ of your posted pictures, I've absolutely had to listen to you. They are amazing.

I know taking pictures of the wall is much easier than in real life

I will update and post the pictures (blurred taken by these lenses with the view camera in MF forum.

Enjoy the trip. It sounds very exotic!! I will continue taking pictures around the house

Best

Pramote