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Fuji GFX and Capture One
- Thread starter vjbelle
- Start date
Don..... I should have been more clear. When tethered I do not have the ability to see 100% pixels while in live view. Double clicking the live view window does nothing when it should automatically show the magnification. This, to me, is a glaring omission or major bug. Critical focus while tethered is extremely important.
This is all on a MacBookPro.
Victor
This is all on a MacBookPro.
Victor
The GFX C1 tethering is still pretty beta. Focus uncontrollable, aperture selection does not match lens aperture, ISO and shutter not customizable, etc.
The Live View Zoom did not work at the time on the A7RII. In support I was told that the Sony has not implemented for tethering. I have to use the Live View Zoom on the camera. If the Sony hangs high above me on the Pedestal stand you can forget that - that was one of the reasons why this camera left me pretty quickly.
The Fuji profiles are still missing (e.g. Acros, Velivia, Provia, etc.).
I think there will be updates soon.
Greeting Gerd
The Live View Zoom did not work at the time on the A7RII. In support I was told that the Sony has not implemented for tethering. I have to use the Live View Zoom on the camera. If the Sony hangs high above me on the Pedestal stand you can forget that - that was one of the reasons why this camera left me pretty quickly.
The Fuji profiles are still missing (e.g. Acros, Velivia, Provia, etc.).
I think there will be updates soon.
Greeting Gerd
Don Libby
Well-known member
Sorry, got up at 3am yesterday, left San Diego for home stopping off in Yuma for a sunrise shot and that's when I got the info of the update. Got home loaded the files from the trip and updated C1 to review them. No tethering as yet however I am thinking of do that the next time I shoot water drops.
Odds are the problem may persist since when you double tap on a GFX in live view or playback the default zoom is way beyond 100 percent. More like 200 and thus determination of exact focus is hard. Just like the way the Nikon D810 zoomed way past 100 percent and Nikon fixed it with the D850.
P1 double tap =100 percent as we all know so easy to implement for tethered work.
Hoped Fuji would fix this with firmware but it’s never happened.
Not sure how P1 can fix it in C1 but I hope they can.
Paul C
P1 double tap =100 percent as we all know so easy to implement for tethered work.
Hoped Fuji would fix this with firmware but it’s never happened.
Not sure how P1 can fix it in C1 but I hope they can.
Paul C
dougpeterson
Workshop Member
Remember guys, Phase One can only implement in Capture One those features/hooks/capabilities that Fuji implements in their SDK.
This is true of all the cameras P1 supports for tethering (Nikon, Sony, Canon, and now Fuji).
For example, at one time the Sony SDK only allowed relative changes to aperture or shutter speed, so P1 could only provide a +/- button. That was very frustrating when you wanted to make e.g. a four stop change to aperture. I don't know if that is still the case today (we do very little Sony tethering at the office).
If you see features missing, send a feature request to Fuji.
If Fuji sees a lot of their users using C1 for tethering and sending requests for specific tethered capabilities they are far more likely to implement them on their side on current/future models. My impression is that when Fuji launched the GFX they did not have tethering high on their priority list and they got a lot of user feedback that they should pay more attention to this use case, which was likely a big motivator for whatever arrangement they've made with P1 to get support added in C1.
This is true of all the cameras P1 supports for tethering (Nikon, Sony, Canon, and now Fuji).
For example, at one time the Sony SDK only allowed relative changes to aperture or shutter speed, so P1 could only provide a +/- button. That was very frustrating when you wanted to make e.g. a four stop change to aperture. I don't know if that is still the case today (we do very little Sony tethering at the office).
If you see features missing, send a feature request to Fuji.
If Fuji sees a lot of their users using C1 for tethering and sending requests for specific tethered capabilities they are far more likely to implement them on their side on current/future models. My impression is that when Fuji launched the GFX they did not have tethering high on their priority list and they got a lot of user feedback that they should pay more attention to this use case, which was likely a big motivator for whatever arrangement they've made with P1 to get support added in C1.
Paul - do you mean now the LiveView via tethering with double click in the C1 software or the LiveView on the rear GFX display?
Technically, these are two fundamentally different things.
When the LiveView on the rear display (or in the viewfinder), you can press the rear wheel once to zoom in and turn to set zoom levels. The zoom levels should also be 100% (I have not checked it).
The same applies if you look at playback mode until and a picture taken.
The double tap on the display should actually trigger a fixed zoom level.
How did you realize that it is not exactly 100%?
Greeting Gerd
Gerd..... Paul brought that to my attention some time ago and he was/is absolutely right. The default highest zoom level for both playback and live view are way beyond 100% pixels. I don't know the exact amount but I'm very used to zooming in to 100% pixels on my 3100 where everything is extremely sharp. The Fuji is very different.
An easy way to find out what 100% pixels should look like is to look at a 50MP file in Photoshop zoomed in to actual pixels. I know this will be different on various monitors but I'm using my NEC PA272 and I try to replicate on the Fuji LCD what I see on my monitor. That's as close as I can get to 100% pixel view. Live view on the Fuji is, of course, very different than a Phase 3100 or any live view camera I have owned. It seems to me that Fuji didn't put a lot of development into the live view actual pixels on screen image as maybe they thought that almost all users would use auto focus. I am able to always nail focus manually with the Fuji but it would be nice if the zoomed image was like my 3100. Playback is an entirely different matter. I have two cards in my camera with one dedicated to JPG's so that I can view a JPG image instead of the raw image on the LCD screen. There is a big difference between the quality of the on screen image - JPG vs. Raw and you cannot view a JPG image that is on the same card as the raw image. The default zoomed in image is more than likely something like 400%. I found zooming out eight clicks of the zoom wheel gives me an approximation of 100% pixels. At that point the image is extremely sharp and I am able to look for focus lines or whatever I want with very high accuracy.
I'm sure Paul will chime in.......
Victor
An easy way to find out what 100% pixels should look like is to look at a 50MP file in Photoshop zoomed in to actual pixels. I know this will be different on various monitors but I'm using my NEC PA272 and I try to replicate on the Fuji LCD what I see on my monitor. That's as close as I can get to 100% pixel view. Live view on the Fuji is, of course, very different than a Phase 3100 or any live view camera I have owned. It seems to me that Fuji didn't put a lot of development into the live view actual pixels on screen image as maybe they thought that almost all users would use auto focus. I am able to always nail focus manually with the Fuji but it would be nice if the zoomed image was like my 3100. Playback is an entirely different matter. I have two cards in my camera with one dedicated to JPG's so that I can view a JPG image instead of the raw image on the LCD screen. There is a big difference between the quality of the on screen image - JPG vs. Raw and you cannot view a JPG image that is on the same card as the raw image. The default zoomed in image is more than likely something like 400%. I found zooming out eight clicks of the zoom wheel gives me an approximation of 100% pixels. At that point the image is extremely sharp and I am able to look for focus lines or whatever I want with very high accuracy.
I'm sure Paul will chime in.......
Victor
OK, I did make a partially incorrect statement. For the record, I rarely if ever use Live View to focus on the GFX, it's got to be one of the single greatest weakness of the camera design, when compared to a Nikon or the IQ150/100 et all design. However I did misspeak.
On Live View with the GFX, if you push the rear dial as Gerd pointed out, you are magnified into one of three views. And where you leave it is where it will always come back to the next time. You get 3 green rectangles on the view and the view with the largest of the rectangles is what appears to be 100% view. However it's next to impossible with this view (at least for me) to get any type of critical focus. The peaking is terrible and the overall view is very soft. Your first thought is there is no way this image is in focus. Very similar to how Capture Pilot shows an IQ3100 image if you have "respect" retina resolution turned off. If you rotate the dial, the view increases more and thus you eventually get to around I guess 200% view. I had left my camera in the largest view the last time I tried Live View and thus every time I tried it again, I was at the 200% view. When I compare this to say a Nikon D810/D850 or the P1 IQ3100, there is really no comparison, the image view just won't allow for critical focus on the GFX. Net for me I am always using AF. I hit my subject, get confirmation, then drop the camera into MF and stay there. I have a function button on the back of the camera set to Focus check, to allow me to stay in MF and hit AF to check. NOTE this is a huge benefit to the Fuji, as after you hit AF, and move to MF, the lens will stay locked there even if you turn off the camera. So unless you hit the focus ring inadvertently your focus is good throughout the shoot.
On Playback, if you double tap the LCD, the image played back to your LCD is 200%, thus again way to large to really tell anything. This is again unlike the Nikon or Phase One implementation of play back double tap as both take you to a 100% view and you instantly can tell if the image is in focus. With the GFX, I usually double tap the LCD, then use my fingers to shrink the image back down to the correct view (similar to how you use an iPhone screen). Over the 1.5 years I have used the GFX I have just gotten used to doing it this way.
I have given plenty of feed back to Fuji and never heard anything back.
I will note the X series cameras are better when zoomed into 100% view Live view, still not perfect like P1 or Nikon/Canon, but at least you can dial in the focus.
Paul C
On Live View with the GFX, if you push the rear dial as Gerd pointed out, you are magnified into one of three views. And where you leave it is where it will always come back to the next time. You get 3 green rectangles on the view and the view with the largest of the rectangles is what appears to be 100% view. However it's next to impossible with this view (at least for me) to get any type of critical focus. The peaking is terrible and the overall view is very soft. Your first thought is there is no way this image is in focus. Very similar to how Capture Pilot shows an IQ3100 image if you have "respect" retina resolution turned off. If you rotate the dial, the view increases more and thus you eventually get to around I guess 200% view. I had left my camera in the largest view the last time I tried Live View and thus every time I tried it again, I was at the 200% view. When I compare this to say a Nikon D810/D850 or the P1 IQ3100, there is really no comparison, the image view just won't allow for critical focus on the GFX. Net for me I am always using AF. I hit my subject, get confirmation, then drop the camera into MF and stay there. I have a function button on the back of the camera set to Focus check, to allow me to stay in MF and hit AF to check. NOTE this is a huge benefit to the Fuji, as after you hit AF, and move to MF, the lens will stay locked there even if you turn off the camera. So unless you hit the focus ring inadvertently your focus is good throughout the shoot.
On Playback, if you double tap the LCD, the image played back to your LCD is 200%, thus again way to large to really tell anything. This is again unlike the Nikon or Phase One implementation of play back double tap as both take you to a 100% view and you instantly can tell if the image is in focus. With the GFX, I usually double tap the LCD, then use my fingers to shrink the image back down to the correct view (similar to how you use an iPhone screen). Over the 1.5 years I have used the GFX I have just gotten used to doing it this way.
I have given plenty of feed back to Fuji and never heard anything back.
I will note the X series cameras are better when zoomed into 100% view Live view, still not perfect like P1 or Nikon/Canon, but at least you can dial in the focus.
Paul C
Paul - I just tried it. You're right.
GFX 50s / 45mm F2.8
IQ3100Tr. / 45mm SK BR F.35
Both cameras right next to each other. I can not find a zoom level on the GFX that almost matches the 100% display of the IQ3.
The IQ3 image on the display is much sharper even over the 100% mark.
Victor - that with the Hi.Res. JPEG on SD1 and RAW on SD2 I do the same. The embedded JPEG in the RAW file has a much lower resolution.
Thank you for the information from both of you.
Greeting Gerd
GFX 50s / 45mm F2.8
IQ3100Tr. / 45mm SK BR F.35
Both cameras right next to each other. I can not find a zoom level on the GFX that almost matches the 100% display of the IQ3.
The IQ3 image on the display is much sharper even over the 100% mark.
Victor - that with the Hi.Res. JPEG on SD1 and RAW on SD2 I do the same. The embedded JPEG in the RAW file has a much lower resolution.
Thank you for the information from both of you.
Greeting Gerd
These focus issues could turn me off getting the 50R. Heck with my bad eyesight I have enough problems focusing my IQ3100 with a tech cam and often drop back from 100% to 50-60% with the left vertical slider (thank you Jeffery for suggesting this approach at the Olympic P1/Alpa workshop).
So do I understand that AF works best over MF?
And when you "dial in" focus with AF and then switch to MF are you getting better/more precise focus with MF or are you guys just moving the focus point in the image to your desired point? Sory for these questions, but I have not seen a GFX for some time now.
So do I understand that AF works best over MF?
And when you "dial in" focus with AF and then switch to MF are you getting better/more precise focus with MF or are you guys just moving the focus point in the image to your desired point? Sory for these questions, but I have not seen a GFX for some time now.
My eyes are not the best either.
However, the electronic angle finder helps me to focus correctly, especially in sunlight or in difficult positions. If the GFX is mounted upright on the Actus, turn the electronic angle finder 45 degrees upwards and you can comfortably focus from above. The adjustable angle finder is for me personally one of the most important things about the GFX. Furthermore, I put my viewfinder image (almost) always on black and white. This helps me to better recognize lines and shapes and I am not distracted by the color. In low light conditions when the camera is rushing, details can be seen better and the colored focus focusing is not in the noise.
The display on the back of IQ3 is sharper than the display of the GFX. But I can still reach the critical focus with the GFX.
Paul uses the AF over a button to check his MF.
Greeting Gerd
However, the electronic angle finder helps me to focus correctly, especially in sunlight or in difficult positions. If the GFX is mounted upright on the Actus, turn the electronic angle finder 45 degrees upwards and you can comfortably focus from above. The adjustable angle finder is for me personally one of the most important things about the GFX. Furthermore, I put my viewfinder image (almost) always on black and white. This helps me to better recognize lines and shapes and I am not distracted by the color. In low light conditions when the camera is rushing, details can be seen better and the colored focus focusing is not in the noise.
The display on the back of IQ3 is sharper than the display of the GFX. But I can still reach the critical focus with the GFX.
Paul uses the AF over a button to check his MF.
Greeting Gerd
Hi Gerd,
You bring up the angle viewfinder. I did not realize until I tried it what a difference it could make, especially with the camera on tripod and vertical.
I am still not sure if the issue on Live View and sharpness is the LCD on the camera, (which has a very good resolution), or the way that Fuji implemented Live View. As you know you get the can zoom in with the single press on the rear dial, but the view is just not sharp and in Live View you can't shrink the view back down with the two fingers pinch like you can on play back (strange to me). I still feel that first zoom is past a 100% view but it's hard to tell.
The AF on the GFX is very good, however it's not that good in low contrast scenes at lease on my camera. I always try to get a good AF hit in low light sunrise, sunset shoots, and then switch to MF, check the focus on playback, the start the shoot.
The LCD on the IQ3 does tend to spoil you for sure.
Paul C
You bring up the angle viewfinder. I did not realize until I tried it what a difference it could make, especially with the camera on tripod and vertical.
I am still not sure if the issue on Live View and sharpness is the LCD on the camera, (which has a very good resolution), or the way that Fuji implemented Live View. As you know you get the can zoom in with the single press on the rear dial, but the view is just not sharp and in Live View you can't shrink the view back down with the two fingers pinch like you can on play back (strange to me). I still feel that first zoom is past a 100% view but it's hard to tell.
The AF on the GFX is very good, however it's not that good in low contrast scenes at lease on my camera. I always try to get a good AF hit in low light sunrise, sunset shoots, and then switch to MF, check the focus on playback, the start the shoot.
The LCD on the IQ3 does tend to spoil you for sure.
Paul C
That’s correct for the 50R. To me it’s very similar in functionality to the X-pro2. But the XPro2 has the strange optical rangefinder.
Paul C