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Opinions of the Phase One + Hasselblad system I am putting together?

Hi All,

I am putting together my first medium format camera.

I found a significant discount on a Hasselblad H6X with HV-90X-ii (brand new). And I have found two digital backs that I am told are compatible: a pre-owned Phase One IQ140 Hasselblad H Mount or a pre-owned Phase One IQ280 Hasselblad H Mount.

Of the two Phase One pre-owned digital backs, I am leaning toward the IQ280 Hasselblad H Mount. It is about twice the cost of the IQ140, but it is still within budget.

I also am planning to get a pre-owned Hasselblad film magazine HM 16-32, which I am told is compatible with the Hasselblad H6X with HV-90X-ii viewfinder.

I have saved up a good budget but still trying to get creative with “mixing and matching” these various pieces in order to stay within my budget and have room for a couple lenses.

I did consider a pre-owned deal on a Hasselblad H6D-100c, but it wouldn’t leave much budget left for anything else. I also considered a pre-owned Hasselblad H6D-50c (which would have left room in the budget for other items), but my impression is that I might prefer the Phase One IQ280 digital back for the higher its higher 80 megapixels anyway, and I also really like having the ability to use the HM 16-32 film magazine on the “open” H6X. Plus, I have read a lot of generally positive opinions about Phase One digital backs in general.

Again, this is my first medium format camera, so I greatly appreciate any feedback (warnings, critical feedback, etc. welcome), tips, advice, or topics for me to further think about, consider, and research. But so far this is the set up I am currently pursuing.

Thank you
 

PabloR

Member
Hi All,

I am putting together my first medium format camera.

I found a significant discount on a Hasselblad H6X with HV-90X-ii (brand new). And I have found two digital backs that I am told are compatible: a pre-owned Phase One IQ140 Hasselblad H Mount or a pre-owned Phase One IQ280 Hasselblad H Mount.

Of the two Phase One pre-owned digital backs, I am leaning toward the IQ280 Hasselblad H Mount. It is about twice the cost of the IQ140, but it is still within budget.

I also am planning to get a pre-owned Hasselblad film magazine HM 16-32, which I am told is compatible with the Hasselblad H6X with HV-90X-ii viewfinder.

I have saved up a good budget but still trying to get creative with “mixing and matching” these various pieces in order to stay within my budget and have room for a couple lenses.

I did consider a pre-owned deal on a Hasselblad H6D-100c, but it wouldn’t leave much budget left for anything else. I also considered a pre-owned Hasselblad H6D-50c (which would have left room in the budget for other items), but my impression is that I might prefer the Phase One IQ280 digital back for the higher its higher 80 megapixels anyway, and I also really like having the ability to use the HM 16-32 film magazine on the “open” H6X. Plus, I have read a lot of generally positive opinions about Phase One digital backs in general.

Again, this is my first medium format camera, so I greatly appreciate any feedback (warnings, critical feedback, etc. welcome), tips, advice, or topics for me to further think about, consider, and research. But so far this is the set up I am currently pursuing.

Thank you
Are you sure there is no possibility to use the film magazine on the H6D 100c body?

Well, about your question, is so personal the decision to choose a camera. You are comparing two CCDs with an CMOS. Different colors, and most important, different sensibility. CCD do his best at iso 50, giving amazing colors. Mostly used on studio and tripod shots. If you are a "lifestyle" shooter I think it is not the camera.

If you likes AF and don't worry to handle big and slow cameras go for the 80.

If you likes to shot 400-1600 iso go for the 100c.

Also you can use your 100c mounted on a technical camera in the future. Hasselblad backs last decades working perfectly.
 
Are you sure there is no possibility to use the film magazine on the H6D 100c body?

Well, about your question, is so personal the decision to choose a camera. You are comparing two CCDs with an CMOS. Different colors, and most important, different sensibility. CCD do his best at iso 50, giving amazing colors. Mostly used on studio and tripod shots. If you are a "lifestyle" shooter I think it is not the camera.

If you likes AF and don't worry to handle big and slow cameras go for the 80.

If you likes to shot 400-1600 iso go for the 100c.

Also you can use your 100c mounted on a technical camera in the future. Hasselblad backs last decades working perfectly.
Thank you so much, this was very helpful.

I plan on doing mostly in studio portraits with a tripod to start out with. I've converted part of my apartment into a studio for photo shoots, taking advantage of my windows facing East for abundant natural light during the daytime especially.

I had a demo with at the Hasselblad studio in NYC this week and was told the H6D's were not compatible with film magazines, but I will double check.
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
Can’t speak to anything Hasselblad. But on the backs.

The IQ 140 has a cropped sensor as I remember. The IQ160 and IQ280/180 are the larger Dalsa chips.

280 gives you some nice features. Along with the largest CCD chip Phase used at least for traditional photography. It offers a 20MP mode sensor plus which will allow for very clean exposures up to 1600ISO. And it has WiFi this allows connect to Capture Pilot but with a Hasselblad camera, it usefulness will be limited to image review no camera controls

The 280 has wonderful color, as did the 180. Some of the best colors I have seen on a Phase One back. Very limited if any live view. Excellent image playback on the IQ screen.

Assume you will still be able to use Capture One since it’s a Phase One back.

Both backs should have excellent USB 3 tethering to C1.

100c is all Hasselblad but it’s safe to assume feature functionality will be similar to the Phase One 3100. Excellent Liveview. Not sure if it has the electronic shutter that the 3100 has which for my use is a number 1 reason to go with CMOS. No Capture One.

Paul C
 
Have you considered the Hy6 Mod 2 at all? You can get the same 80mp back and a variety of amazing lenses. The film support is also great! I love mine.
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
Thank you so much, this was very helpful.

I plan on doing mostly in studio portraits with a tripod to start out with. I've converted part of my apartment into a studio for photo shoots, taking advantage of my windows facing East for abundant natural light during the daytime especially.

I had a demo with at the Hasselblad studio in NYC this week and was told the H6D's were not compatible with film magazines, but I will double check.
Film backs!!!:thumbs:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...ad_h_3013742_h6d_100c_medium_format_dslr.html
 

Boinger

Active member
Thank you so much, this was very helpful.

I plan on doing mostly in studio portraits with a tripod to start out with. I've converted part of my apartment into a studio for photo shoots, taking advantage of my windows facing East for abundant natural light during the daytime especially.

I had a demo with at the Hasselblad studio in NYC this week and was told the H6D's were not compatible with film magazines, but I will double check.
In my H6 manual it literally has instructions for a film magazine. So that would be interesting if that was the case?
 

dave.gt

Well-known member
It definitely is the case. The H6X does use film and Phase One digital backs. The H6D-50c and 100 will also use film backs but only Hasselblad digital backs.
 
I'm pretty sure the H5 and 6 accept film backs. Frankly it was a weird period when they started making cameras that would not accept film...or non Hassy backs for that matter. Like...what was the point? People loved MF for versatility, taking away that versatility was dumb. I remember they were basically forced to introduce the H4x, which would accept film and Phase backs (and possibly Leaf?). If I was buying a medium format camera why wouldn't I want the option to use whatever back was available for it?
 
Looks like I was wrong or misheard the gentleman giving the Hasselblad H6D demo, as you all have pointed out the H6D does accept film backs.

Thank you all for the great points. I will be researching all the ideas and suggestions brought up in the coming days.

My initial plans are shooting indoor artistic studio portraits with strobe lighting (I also have Quasar Science Q-LED continuous lights) but ultimately I will likely want to shoot outdoor portraits (e.g. fashion editorial or lifestyle type images) as well and video.

Generally speaking, I don't mind lugging around a big camera. I'm even intrigued by 8x10 large format film studio portrait shooting at some point.

My total budget for equipment is about $20,000. There is a pre-owned Hasselblad H6D-100C selling for about $19,000 said to be in excellent condition that I was/am considering. If I were to pursue that camera, I would wait to save up for lenses later, but I also like a lot of your suggestions for mixing and matching, getting equipment that is more versatile, pursuing some older models, etc. to save more budget for other needed equipment.

I do get a student/EDU discount for certain deals, though not always relevant ones. Off the top of my head, I remember seeing that B&H offers student/EDU discounts on several new Mamiya medium format lenses.

Thanks again, I'll be checking in here regularly—this is a wonderful resource.
 
M

mjr

Guest
Morning

I may sound a little negative here, it's just an alternative view, feel free to ignore it! I don't know your experience, you are a student but could be a mature student with loads of experience I don't know!

If I had a 20k budget, I wouldn't spend 19 of it on a 100c or less on a 180 or 140, unless you had future plans for tech cameras or something. That in my opinion is the only reason to go for the modularity of a traditional MF, others will disagree.

Whilst it's true that under strobes in a studio, portraits with a ccd back are superb, smaller MF bodies are so good now, Hasselblad X1D or GFX or even 35mm full frame with a D850 or the new Lumix S1R, what you lose in ultimate resolution you gain massively in other areas.

So if it was my 20k, I was a student, setting up my own little studio, I would spread it around a bit, decent backdrop, some props, good quality strobes, a GFX plus a couple of lenses, then use the other 10k for travel and projects etc. plus obviously as a student, some noodles and a case of vodka.

There can be a temptation to think, I want the best, big camera, loads of resolution, but there is so much to technique, practice, making mistakes and learning, that it simply isn't where my money would go.

As I said, just my opinion, you can obviously buy what you like!

Enjoy the process.

Mat
 
Morning

I may sound a little negative here, it's just an alternative view, feel free to ignore it! I don't know your experience, you are a student but could be a mature student with loads of experience I don't know!

If I had a 20k budget, I wouldn't spend 19 of it on a 100c or less on a 180 or 140, unless you had future plans for tech cameras or something. That in my opinion is the only reason to go for the modularity of a traditional MF, others will disagree.

Whilst it's true that under strobes in a studio, portraits with a ccd back are superb, smaller MF bodies are so good now, Hasselblad X1D or GFX or even 35mm full frame with a D850 or the new Lumix S1R, what you lose in ultimate resolution you gain massively in other areas.

So if it was my 20k, I was a student, setting up my own little studio, I would spread it around a bit, decent backdrop, some props, good quality strobes, a GFX plus a couple of lenses, then use the other 10k for travel and projects etc. plus obviously as a student, some noodles and a case of vodka.

There can be a temptation to think, I want the best, big camera, loads of resolution, but there is so much to technique, practice, making mistakes and learning, that it simply isn't where my money would go.

As I said, just my opinion, you can obviously buy what you like!

Enjoy the process.

Mat
I definitely appreciate this perspective and was/am looking at the GFX 50R or 50S, too. I'm actually a student in nursing and work part-time so still get some income while in school, and don't qualify for all student discount programs like Leica's for example (which requires you be a photography student) so I just mentioned that I do still have access to certain student/EDU discounts for the time being when it comes to filling out my equipment. One thing is that I have a unique opportunity this summer to focus exclusively on photography, and I'm pursuing a few projects and even a portrait contest/grant so probably putting some added pressure on myself to hit the ground running with my equipment shopping. But I definitely hear you.
 
M

mjr

Guest
One thing to consider, sensor size has no baring on creativity. Competitions, grants etc. they are focussed on you, your interpretation of a brief and how you take that brief and create something meaningful, unusual and different. Having a great system isn't enough, having lots of resolution isn't enough, it's what you bring to it that counts.

I noticed this the other day on the Sony Awards winners, look at those images and think about whether the camera really mattered, in fact, there's only really 1 studio portrait on there and it is far more to do with the subject than the kit, obviously there's a minimum requirement technology wise, but it's a low bar.

https://www.bbc.com/news/in-pictures-47866153

Have a look at this guy, I find his work stunning personally..

https://www.martinstranka.com/ifoundthesilence

He uses a DSLR of some type but it just doesn't matter, it's his ideas that are sublime, not everyone's cup of tea for sure and a lot of manipulation etc. but wow, just the ability to create concepts and turn them in to art, fascinating. Notice on his website, there are loads of sections, lots of FAQ's etc. not one deals with the kit he uses.

My unrequested advice would be to forget what you can get a deal on and concentrate on what you want to create, then find a system that suits you and your budget. I would personally rather spend lots of money on setting up a seriously cool concept and use a cheaper camera than have all the gear and no way of turning it in to something great. I doubt anyone is going to look at what you produce and tell you it would have been better had you used a larger sensor.

I wish someone had said something similar to this to me years ago, I'd have saved a lot of money and frustration, I probably wouldn't have listened though so ultimately do whatever makes you feel good!

Mat
 

robmac

Well-known member
Personally, I'd look at either the H5D-50c or 50s. We use the H5D-40 and it's a fantastic camera, but the higher ISO of the C would be nice. It tethers with FW800, but works effortlessly with a FW800-Thunderbolt adapter. Never had a camera that tethered so effortlessly.

The GFX-50S can use both Fuji lenses at 1/125 sync or Hassy lenses (with the adapter and manual focus) at 1/800 sync. No film back though.

We're actually acquiring a used GFX-50S as backup/2nd to our Hassy due to the ability to share the H glass.

Both camera would leave a large chunk of your budget clear for some lenses, travel, models, etc. If buy right, can always upgrade to 100C or the upcoming GDX-100S at some later point.
 

tcdeveau

Well-known member
Something else to consider...just playing devils advocate here so also feel free to ignore my opinion...

Digital medium format is generally not a good financial investment (except for some, the camera can generate enough revenue to cover cost of camera and a profit), and cameras/backs depreciate pretty heavily over time. If your budget is $20k, and you spend $19k of that on a H6D-100c or H6x/IQ280, those setups may only be worth half or less of what you paid for them (or less) in another 1-4 years. The H6D-100c especially, considering at least that a $10k 100mp GFX will be here in two months. Note I'm simply talking about financial investment, and there are considerations in investing in a system aside from $$ of course.

My initial impression was to go for the IQ280 or H6D-100c, but that might not be wisest move. Just to play devils advocate, for $20k, you could probably pick up a used GFX kit (or X1D kit) AND a used H5D-40 (or 50c) and a film back money to spare for some H lenses. That would give you all sorts of options for shooting, and if you were ever in a position where you needed to liquidate, you could potentially get a bigger fraction of your investment back compared to the H6x/IQ280 or H6D-100c.

For portraits, the GFX/X1D also has autofocus points across the entire sensor, which for me is an advantage over true focus of the H as it improves my hit ratio.

Another thing: you can always upgrade gear later too...and a general rule of thumb is that gear gets cheaper over time, as long as it is not the latest and greatest.

Whatever you get, I'd try to demo if you can and make sure you enjoy shooting with it. I know I personally would enjoy shooting with any of the systems mentioned here, and I could get great results with an IQ280 or H6D-100c, but I also got great results with the H4D-40 and am getting great results with the X1D (and even the 645z I owned briefly).
 

Geoff

Well-known member
So here’s an off-the-wall suggestion:

If your budget is $20k, how about allocating say $10-15k to buy camera gear now. Save the rest for evolving thoughts and needs. Here’s why:

- MF digital is an expensive arena; slight changes in the wish list add up to big bucks fast. And they may not be necesssary.
- it’s really hard to get it right on the first take. Everyone here (in a sober moment) probably has stories to tell of changes, expensive ones.
- the sheer quality of MFDB will impact your thinking and work in ways hard to anticipate. Over the past ten years it’s taken me places I never would have imagined. Goals change.

The thought is to leave room (and budget) for that growth, wherever it takes you.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
So here’s an off-the-wall suggestion:

If your budget is $20k, how about allocating say $10-15k to buy camera gear now. Save the rest for evolving thoughts and needs. Here’s why:

- MF digital is an expensive arena; slight changes in the wish list add up to big bucks fast. And they may not be necesssary.
- it’s really hard to get it right on the first take. Everyone here (in a sober moment) probably has stories to tell of changes, expensive ones.
- the sheer quality of MFDB will impact your thinking and work in ways hard to anticipate. Over the past ten years it’s taken me places I never would have imagined. Goals change.

The thought is to leave room (and budget) for that growth, wherever it takes you.
All very good reasons to do due diligence before pulling the trigger, regardless if the budget is $5k, $15k, or $50k. Needless downstream changes can indeed be expensive (in both cash, time, and annoyance) and doing extensive research (downloading raw files such as the extensive catalog we offer) and testing the relevant gear hands on (like our evaluation rental program) is the best way to avoid that.
 
Can't thank you all enough for the genuine feedback and valuable info.

mjr, I really needed that reminder! The various programs I've eyed and thought about submitting to piqued my interest because they seemed focused more on creativity and the conceptual part of the work. So I should not use those as excuses for any impulse purchases.

robmac, thanks for the tip and info about your use of the GFX-50S (which I continue to consider very strongly)

tcdeveau, I really appreciate your insight...with my limited experience in this realm, it really helps to hear someone with experience brush on those factors that are important to consider!

Geoff, you're right, and I'm definitely trending toward your position of saving room in the budget and putting off some decisions until after I've gotten more experience in MF under my belt.

dougpeterson, thanks for all your help! I definitely would love to take you up on the catalog of raw files to help aid my research and the evaluation rental program! I will be in touch.
 

Boinger

Active member
Can't thank you all enough for the genuine feedback and valuable info.

mjr, I really needed that reminder! The various programs I've eyed and thought about submitting to piqued my interest because they seemed focused more on creativity and the conceptual part of the work. So I should not use those as excuses for any impulse purchases.

robmac, thanks for the tip and info about your use of the GFX-50S (which I continue to consider very strongly)

tcdeveau, I really appreciate your insight...with my limited experience in this realm, it really helps to hear someone with experience brush on those factors that are important to consider!

Geoff, you're right, and I'm definitely trending toward your position of saving room in the budget and putting off some decisions until after I've gotten more experience in MF under my belt.

dougpeterson, thanks for all your help! I definitely would love to take you up on the catalog of raw files to help aid my research and the evaluation rental program! I will be in touch.
I figured I will put in my two cents as well.

I would skip the MF SLR bodies all together unless you had a need for the large sensor. I had an h6d100c and upgraded to the iq4150 back only. But that was because the only reason I had the 100c was the tech camera. I was not using the SLR H6 at all for any shooting.

I would normally pick up my x1d and shoot with that rather than lug that big thing around. Since I was only using it on a tech cam I just decided to get rid of the h6d.

I would say the x1d can do comfortably everything the h6 could do in a smaller package.

If you are interested in tech cam shooting then its a different scenario. BUT the x1d / gfx can also be mounted on a tech cam like an actus if you wanted to get your feet wet.

Just my own usage and opinions.
 

baudolino

Active member
I can offer the perspective of someone who recently purchased a second hand IQ280 and use it with the Mamiya RZ67ProIID. I have also owned and used a GFX50S and still use a Leica S007, so I can compare the systems. In summary, if you are willing to accept all the limitations of a large size CCD back (low ISO, best used on tripod or with strobes) you will get fantastic colours and overall image quality. I would almost say forget this combination unless you mostly shoot in a studio or with strobes on location and can control the light. Even the current best crop of LED lights (e.g. Rotolight Annova Pro/Aeos) are not enough to support an ISO 35 digital back at reasonable apertures. The beast needs plenty of light and if you feed it, it will reward you. For me, the choice of the RZ67 platform was because of (a) the ability to rotate the back while using the huge waist-level finder (which I personally find the best and most rewarding way to compose photographs), and (b) the availability of still great and stupidly cheap Mamiya glass (MINT 250 APO for 450 EUR...).
I bought the IQ280 back partly because a good private deal was available, partly because I was intrigued by the great skin tones that I knew were achievable with it, which are key in the kind of photography I do with the system (art nudes). At some point in the future, when the prices recede, I will be looking to upgrade to a used Trichromatic back. Now, if you want a universal MF machine that can pretty much do it all with top (albeit sometimes a bit sterile) image quality, then the Fuji GFX is the best way to spend your money. With full support (tethering and conversion) in Capture One and with TTL/HSS trigger support from the main strobe manufacturers. I also think that the Fuji files are the most resistant to post processing "torture", whether lifting the shadows, applying curves, presets etc. The Leica sits somewhere in between, with the best (but large and heavy) glass but with the lowest resolution sensor that I feel deserves an upgrade, and so far with problematic tethering. By the way, even though I can shoot the Mamiya with a film back, I haven't done that so far. Mostly because I prefer to use film for more casual shooting and not during my "organised efforts" with models, teams etc where I need the immediate feedback of a tethered digital camera. I prefer to shoot 6x7 film during my travels and do so, somewhat sporadically, with a Pentax 67 which is more of a handheld use machine than the RZ.
 
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