Hasselblad CFV ll 50c

[TheDude]

The Live View function of the Mark I is pathetic.

With variable neutral density filter in front of lens suitably adjusted, it's workable but color fidelity is pathetic.

Pathetic by itself having to use variable neutral density filter.

 

[Godfrey]

Today I took the CFVII 50c off the 907x body and fitted it onto my black 500CM body. At first, I had the Distagon 50mm f/3.5 lens fitted ... The body had a microprism screen fitted and, wow, was that hard to focus! I switched the screen to a plain matte fresnel type screen and that was a lot easier. Then I switched that for a split image screen and with that, all focusing issues with the Distagon 50mm disappeared.

The CFVII 50c is superb to fit onto a classic Hasselblad 500CM. It automatically recognizes the camera and just works, no fuss and no funky setup or cable triggering to deal with. I made a couple of dozen exposures with the Distagon 50 and several are quite nice.

Then I decided to go for a longer lens test and fitted the Makro-Planar 120mm f/4 to the body, and switched the plain ground glass screen back into place. WOW! Totally different feel to this lens ... The image snaps in and out of focus on the focusing screen with alacrity, the test exposures are instantly beautiful. This particular matte fresnel focusing screen has guidelines for SuperSlide format on it, which turns out to be just about an exact match to what the sensor when cropped square will see.

I made several really nice test shots with this setup, but I have to say this abstract of my Brompton bicycle just hits the numbers for me.

Brompton – Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 500CM + CFVII 50c + Makro-Planar 120mm f/4​

The 907x/CFVII 50c is such a great kit, and the back is similarly a great kit if you have a 500CM as well!

Oh yes: Nearly forgot, this is the shooting configuration of the camera.

enjoy, G

 

[leejo]

Today I took the CFVII 50c off the 907x body and fitted it onto my black 500CM body. At first, I had the Distagon 50mm f/3.5 lens fitted ... The body had a microprism screen fitted and, wow, was that hard to focus! I switched the screen to a plain matte fresnel type screen and that was a lot easier. Then I switched that for a split image screen and with that, all focusing issues with the Distagon 50mm disappeared.

FWIW this is pretty much on par with the 500/200 V series bodies. The focus screens absolutely suck, and (as I've said way earlier in this thread) anyone who goes with the CFV + V body combo is in for a shock if they don't have a split image screen. I've written about this previously[1].

I'm still in two minds about getting the CFV II 50c and it's all going to come down to price. I contacted Hasselblad (again) and they've told me (again) that they won't service my 200 series bodies due to lack of parts so dropping 6,000.- CHF or so on this then having a problem with my 203 or 202 is something I'm worried about.

[1] https://leejo.github.io/2017/03/08/ten_years_with_a_hasselblad/ # see "Find at waist level, but don’t focus at waist level" and "Focus discipline".

 

[Thorkil]

Brompton – Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 500CM + CFVII 50c + Makro-Planar 120mm f/4​

yes that picture has an extraordinary good, refined and powerful look despite its modest presence..
thorkil

 

[Godfrey]

One of the exposures I made with the 500CM, digital back, and Distagon 50mm lens. It was hand-held and the light was poor so there's a touch of motion blur in it, but I like the look of it. Wide open, I believe, at ISO 1600.

Breakfast Potential — Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 500CM + CFVII 50c + Distagon 50mm f/3.5 T*​

enjoy! G

 

[Godfrey]

FWIW this is pretty much on par with the 500/200 V series bodies. The focus screens absolutely suck, and (as I've said way earlier in this thread) anyone who goes with the CFV + V body combo is in for a shock if they don't have a split image screen. I've written about this previously[1].

I'm still in two minds about getting the CFV II 50c and it's all going to come down to price. I contacted Hasselblad (again) and they've told me (again) that they won't service my 200 series bodies due to lack of parts so dropping 6,000.- CHF or so on this then having a problem with my 203 or 202 is something I'm worried about.

[1] https://leejo.github.io/2017/03/08/ten_years_with_a_hasselblad/ # see "Find at waist level, but don’t focus at waist level" and "Focus discipline".

I don't think the focusing screens "suck" at all. You need the right one for the lens/lenses you're using, just like I always did with my Nikons and other SLR cameras. The Distagon 50mm needs a screen that works properly with it for best focusing behavior; of the three I have, the split image works the best with this lens. Simple.

The Makro-Planar 120mm f/4 focuses easily and accurately with the plain matte fresnel screen, as do the 80mm and the 150mm lenses. The microprism screen works best with the 80mm lens and none of the others; remember the Nikon used to make 9 variations of a microprism focusing screen (and similarly several different split image screens) for the F/F2 bodies to accommodate different focal length needs for best focusing behavior. Did all of the ones other than the correct one for a lens suck? No, they just weren't the right screen.

Please let's not waste time and energy complaining about things. Be constructive. If focusing requires some special technique that you've learned, let others know about the technique.

BTW, I found that flipping to Live View and using the focusing aids (peaking and focus magnification) that way enabled very very quick critical focus with the CFVII50c back and either the 50 or 120 mm lens.

I stuck with the 500CM bodies because parts are easily sourced and there are many of them available for dirt cheap prices. The last one that I just bought is in near mint condition and cost me $500 or so including the finder and focusing screen. I'd buy a body just to be able to use this superb back and the wonderful Hasselblad lenses.

G

 

[tjv]

When I had my 500c/m (much missed!) I had it serviced and installed a Maxwell focusing screen with split image and micro prism and painted crop lines for digital. I had them adjust the focus plane and mirror position at service so it was dead on correct with my Credo 60.

Focus was difficult to nail if impatient but not so hard overall. Off centre without the use of the aids it was certainly trial and error, but with the aids easy as pie. The Maxwell screen made a HUGE difference. Gosh, I really do wish I still had that camera... I loved using it, all be it 99% of the time with 120 film.

 

[ggibson]

so it can shoot any adapted lens then with a universal electronic shutter?

https://fotodioxpro.com/collections/lens-mount-adapters/xcd

It's worth noting though that the electronic shutter readout on these 50MP MF sensors takes 1/3 second. So anything moving in frame and even hand-holding the camera is susceptible to rolling shutter (even if your exposure is faster). This would be the case with Leica M and XPan lenses. Probably best reserved for static scenes on a tripod.

But shooting on a 500cm body and V lens would still trigger the lens shutter, so you don't have this problem there. Nice way to get a digital back for an older V system and use the XCD lenses. The tighter crop factor requires some different consideration for your lens lineup though. Like Godfrey, most people will add lenses on the wider end like the 21/4.

 

[leejo]

I don't think the focusing screens "suck" at all. You need the right one for the lens/lenses you're using, just like I always did with my Nikons and other SLR cameras. The Distagon 50mm needs a screen that works properly with it for best focusing behavior; of the three I have, the split image works the best with this lens. Simple.

Sorry, but having used several different focusing screens in the blads i'm pretty confident in my assertion that they're poor. This is certainly the case when compared to a maxwell bright screen with split prism. It would be a good idea for Hasselblad to include a split prism bright screen with the back as it wouldn't cost them much and would probably reduce the number of complaints/issues/queries.

Please let's not waste time and energy complaining about things. Be constructive. If focusing requires some special technique that you've learned, let others know about the technique.

The special technique is to make sure your body is correctly calibrated, use a split prism screen, and use the pop up magnifier. I'm trying to be constructive here - a not-insignificant number of people that pick up the back are in for a shock. My bigger point is that Hasselblad are marketing this back as compatible with their (almost) entire back catalog of V bodies. Yeah, sure, on paper they are, but there's going to be some issues as you have clearly noticed.

This has always been the case. Hasselblad's are a particular shooting experience, and sometimes they're a pain to use. But when they shine, they shine. Which is why I'm still on the side of picking up this back to carry on with some works in progress: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9me7UsHYky/

 

[edouard]

Please let's not waste time and energy complaining about things. Be constructive. If focusing requires some special technique that you've learned, let others know about the technique.

BTW, I found that flipping to Live View and using the focusing aids (peaking and focus magnification) that way enabled very very quick critical focus with the CFVII50c back and either the 50 or 120 mm lens.

On my 500C/M I was able to (painfully) "micro adjust" the focus by raising/lowering the 4 small screws beneath the focusing screen, until what I "saw" as sharp on the focusing screen correspond to what the sensor sees = until I have the sharpest image (tripod, test image etc..).

I have an old CFV50 (CCD, 49x38mm); if I had a CFV50c II I would only/mostly? use the tilted LCD screen of the back to focus...

p.s. I also have a X1D (as a ~small format camera ;-), so I'm hesitant to get the same 44x33 sensor in another package, but having live view & focus peak or magnification on the V is tempting

 

[mristuccia]

I own the first version of the CFV-50c, and precise focusing using the viewfinder is always a pain in the *ss.
I agree that live-view helps a lot, that's the way I always go when on tripod.
But this is not usable when hand-holding for candid shots. At least in version 1 of the back one cannot shoot directly in live-view mode. Maybe with the version 2 is that possible by means of the ES?
In this case I use a PM90 with the Hasselblad View 2x Magnifier attached on it, and often the CW winder as well, in order to be faster and cause less camera shake.

 

[JohnBrew]

Marco, agreed. I had the opportunity to shoot side by side with another photographer who also had the CFV-50c. This was very instructive, on my RM3di it was impossible to focus with LV because the focusing adjustment was too fine, ie attempting to fine tune focus made no difference to the LV image due to the low resolution of the back and those teeny tiny focusing increments of the Arca. You could turn the focus all over the place and never see focus. I either had to use a disto or shoot at infinity and still never had a good focus confirmation. However, with an ALPA and it’s less precise focusing the image could be made to pop in and out of focus with a slight turn. It was all a bit counter intuitive to me, but that was the way it worked.
Version II should be much better with the higher resolution LCD.

 

[TheDude]

it was impossible to focus with LV because the focusing adjustment was too fine, ie attempting to fine tune focus made no difference to the LV image due to the low resolution of the back

Did you use the zoom function in live-view while focussing?

 

[pflower]

I agree completely with you. I had the original CFV-50 back but sold it to buy the X1D. The first 100 or so shots with it on my 503cx were really hit and miss. But then I had the camera calibrated which improved matters a lot. But focusing without a split screen focusing screen was really really hit or miss. It may be my eyes - I bought a +2 diopter magnifier for the waist level finder and then helped. But even so...

The original CFV-50 came with a split screen focusing screen. This one doesn't which seems a shame. Looking on eBay I can find split screen focusing masks ranging from about £35 up to close to £300. Not sure what the difference is - probably Acumatte and generic. But with the tilting lcd I am tempted by the 907x as a hand held waist level camera. But with the current stock market crash I suspect I will hold off for a number of years.

Sorry, but having used several different focusing screens in the blads i'm pretty confident in my assertion that they're poor. This is certainly the case when compared to a maxwell bright screen with split prism. It would be a good idea for Hasselblad to include a split prism bright screen with the back as it wouldn't cost them much and would probably reduce the number of complaints/issues/queries.



The special technique is to make sure your body is correctly calibrated, use a split prism screen, and use the pop up magnifier. I'm trying to be constructive here - a not-insignificant number of people that pick up the back are in for a shock. My bigger point is that Hasselblad are marketing this back as compatible with their (almost) entire back catalog of V bodies. Yeah, sure, on paper they are, but there's going to be some issues as you have clearly noticed.

This has always been the case. Hasselblad's are a particular shooting experience, and sometimes they're a pain to use. But when they shine, they shine. Which is why I'm still on the side of picking up this back to carry on with some works in progress: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9me7UsHYky/

 

[Godfrey]

I'm sorry to hear you all have so much trouble focusing your Hasselblads.

I don't seem to have any trouble at all focusing with the Planar 80mm, Makro-Planar 120, and Sonnar 150 mm lenses, with any of my focusing screens, with both of my Hasselblad 500CM bodies. I've used them all with film backs and gotten very sharp results, I've tested them now with the CFVII 50c back on both bodies and get sharp results. The Distagon 50mm f/4 is the only lens that I find a bit difficult to focus with unless I use the split image screen ... And I always found it the hardest to focus critically with film as well. Just like with film, I find when working quickly with the Distagon 50 it's better to just set a distance by scale and use the DOF indicators ... much like you have to with the SWC and its Biogon 38mm.

Personally, I always chalked this up to this 50mm lens being a relatively slow, relatively wide-angle lens that needs the right focusing screen rather than the camera's focusing being difficult to use; I have never felt there was something to complain about. If your Hasselblad mirror needs to be adjusted to get correct focus, obviously it's out of calibration ... This happens with forty year old SLRs like this; far as my experience shows, mine haven't gotten out of calibration. If I felt they were, I'd have them serviced.

But that's just me, I guess. All I can say is, my cameras seem to work well the way they were designed to work. I'll just keep doing what I do, and you can keep doing what you do.

G

 

[Thorkil]

I sold my 203FE, with PME 51 and the 110/2 FE. Kept the 50/2.8 FE - for absolutely nothing.
Did I regret? You bet!
Bought a 202 FA.
Yesterday I ordered a mint PME 51.
I never had focusing problem at all, as far as I remember, clear, clean, bright and simple.
Perhaps one cannot use a PME 51 with a DB? or? if so, I can only recommand it..
thorkil

 

[itsdoable]

Re: Hasselblad ... focus screens...

I was happily using a split/micro Brightscreen on my 203fe until I got my 110mm f2, which showed me my Brightscreen was back focusing. Inspecting my negs for the last few years showed that it was indeed back focusing a tiny bit, not really noticeable at f/2.8, but much clearer at f/2 and 110mm (!). Going back to a standard Acute matte fixed it. The aftermarket Brightscreen, as nice as it popped, was not to spec.

Standard Acute Mattes have a very slight aerial image, so the final focus needs to be compared to the cross-hair scribed lines (or grid lines if that's what you have), make sure both the image and the scribed lines are sharp. This is because they are prismatic surfaces. I remember learning this as an apprentice. The "D" version changed that so the aerial image was gone, and they should work as well as any of the current "good" screens.

When the CVF's were introduced, it was recommended that you send the camera and body in for calibration, as the position of the sensor was very sensitive to tolerances in the screen and mirror. Film was considerably more tolerant, as it has a definite thickness and halation.

 

[darr]

I sold my 203FE, with PME 51 and the 110/2 FE. Kept the 50/2.8 FE - for absolutely nothing.
Did I regret? You bet!
Bought a 202 FA.
Yesterday I ordered a mint PME 51.
I never had focusing problem at all, as far as I remember, clear, clean, bright and simple.
Perhaps one cannot use a PME 51 with a DB? or? if so, I can only recommand it..
thorkil

Thorkil,

I do not have focusing issues when shooting film or my CFV-50c with my Hasselblad V cameras when tripod mounted using a PME51 and the screen included with my digital back. Either is my visual focus ever a problem while walking around shooting film. I have experienced focus problems when walking around using the Live View function only. I am guessing (I do not know), that the screen resolution on the newer CFV II 50c is greater than the original one I have.

Is this change in resolution enough for me to upgrade. No! It is the same sensor. My CFV-50c works great for me! I may update for a larger sensor size (physical size not pixel count) in the future (square would be beyond perfect :clap, but until then I will continue to enjoy what I have.

What I have had to do is adjust my shooting technique just a little by incorporating hyperfocal distant in my checklist when shooting for a large depth of focus area. In plain English, making sure the distance of focus I want is covered within the lens distance indicators.

Here is an example: I use a gimbal head and leveling base for stitching with my 501CM. I mount the camera using my 60 or 80 lens (no longer own a 50), focus on the most important object and stop down to f/22 or f/32, noting the distance between the lens markings. If I need to adjust the distance, I adjust as necessary. Seems to work fine. Here is a recent three stitched pano made with the 80/2.8 CF. Those trees are tall! The palm tree is about 10-15 feet tall for comparison.

Now if you are wanting to walk around and use Live View for focusing, I think I would purchase a Fuji GFX camera or spend the time and money to have my Hasselblad body calibrated to the specific digital back. I personally would not do that as I use digital backs mainly for tripod shooting. For me, a Fuji with the same sensor would be a better choice for candid shooting with newer lenses calibrated for the body and sensor.

We live in such a tremendous time to be a photographer, so many choices of gear!

Kind regards,
Darr

 

[Godfrey]

Yet another from my shooting around the condo.

Bananas – Santa Clara 2020
Hasselblad 500CM + CFVII 50c + Distagon 50mm f/4 T*​

Reading the CFVII 50c instruction manual, for all those saying how much the Hasselblad focusing screen suck ... well ... the manual does recommend being sure that your camera is in proper calibration and that the split image diagonal screen is recommended for the digital sensor. Seems to be the case in my experience with this lens, not so necessary for my other lenses.

And they also recommend Live View focusing on maximum magnification, peaking on, for best results too. I'm happy to find that mostly unnecessary with the other lenses in my kit, although quite welcome with this one.

G

 

[richardman]

This digital back is INSANE. Godfrey generously allowed me to ogle and fondle the back. I took my unmodified-for-digital 203FE and the 50/2.8 FE lens to his place and took a few shots. Since the camera is unmodified, this meant I had to put the setup on a tripod and use the electronic shutter). My friend Ray is with me (he had been traveling and shot 120+ sheets of 5x7 during the last 4 weeks). I just used the standard WLF and *possibly the Acute Matte screen to focus. Easy-peasy. Out of the camera, the .3FR files are gorgeous as is, the colors are so great. I did some LR work, but honestly, the originals look 95% like these....

Too poor to afford one, but ... this is so sweet. If the camera is modified, then the focal plane shutter on the 203FE can be used. For the 500 series, it just works. Hasselblad did a great job.

(cropped a couple to square to celebrate the Hasselblad)