Technical Camera Help Please!

[dougpeterson]

Lastly, I'd reflect on Stanely's comments: Rod Klukas is a great resource for those shooting Arca.

Rod is indeed a great resource as the Arca Swiss USA Rep. When you buy your Arca gear through a dealer, such as us, Rod provides an additional resource layer of overlapping support.

 

[Greg Haag]

I apologize for the low res images, but that is all I had on my laptop. This would be a fair representation of 80% of what I shoot, do you think the 40HR is a good lens on the wide side, or should I go wider? Also, I typically backpack with my gear, is that acceptable with a technical camera?

 

[Boinger]

I apologize for the low res images, but that is all I had on my laptop. This would be a fair representation of 90% of what I shoot, do you think the 40HR is a good lens on the wide side, or should I go wider? Also, I typically backpack with my gear, is that acceptable with a technical camera?

Nice images.

So a 40HR will definitely get you there if you shift to stitch. On a IQ4 150 or Iq3 100 the factor is .6 to compare to your 35mm system.

So a 40HR will be like a 24mm on a 35mm system. Another thing to keep in mind is when you shift a 40HR the further out you go into the image circle you will get retro-focal distortion as objects will become stretched. This is less of an issue on schneider lenses as they have virtually no distortion. But to really utilize Schneider glass it is best done on a Iq4 150.

So one way to go is Iq4150 with Schneider glass = more expensive back, cheaper glass, less weight. Iq3100 and Rodenstock glass = cheaper back, more expensive glass, more weight.

Have a look at this tool:

https://www.dtcommercialphoto.com/support/lens-visualizer-tools/

Should help out your lens selection.

I too take my kit in a backpack that is why I went for the Iq4 150 with Schneider lenses. You save a couple pounds that way.

 

[Greg Haag]

iPad is the best for focus and composing. It's kind of like having your 8x10 ground glass back.

Dana, that would really be helpful, is tethering to an iPad only available on the IQ3100 and not the IQ4150?

 

[Boinger]

Dana, that would really be helpful, is tethering to an iPad only available on the IQ3100 and not the IQ4150?

As it stands right now that is correct.

 

[Shashin]

Also, I typically backpack with my gear, is that acceptable with a technical camera?

Hopefully Dave can also chime in here as he does backpack with tech cameras. I have backpacked with medium-format systems. Part of the equation is the bag and support system for carrying the weight. And the same rules apply: watch the ounces and the pounds will take care of themselves. Naturally, getting younger is a great option if you have that available too. I would look at not only the weight, but how small the system breaks down.

My experience is understanding the minimum gear you need: optimization rather than maximization. I usually limit myself to a two- or three-lens kit, but I can also get by with a single lens for long trips. With stitching, the wide tends to be less important. And if you are packing a 100MP sensor, longer focal lengths are not so critical as you can crop.

If you go the tech camera root, support can be important (I used my medium-format camera panoramic handheld, but there are limits to that). Here too optimizing the weight and size is going to save a lot of energy. There are some very good light-weight designs for both legs and heads. I recommend looking at the "Great Tripod and Head" thread in this forum.

The hardest issue for me is how quickly a camera can be accessed during a hike. Can it be carried on the outside of the pack or do you need to take the pack off and stop for a break? Stopping is not a bad idea, but if you are low on energy, do you have the incentive to stop and take the camera out. A rigid body tech camera is going to be much better for this than a monorail.

And if you are in the natural world, how much are movements going to help you? If you want a compact setup, you could also consider the Alpa TC, Hasselblad 907, or a Hasselblad XD1 (not sure I am getting the Hasselblad model numbers right). This also makes a 50MP Fuji GFX with their weatherproof zoom lens an interesting choice. And if you want long focal lengths, the Fuji options might be be worth looking into.

 

[dchew]

When backpacking for several days, I take two camera systems: the complete Alpa kit in a Small-Pro f-stop ICU, packed in the top of your favorite internal frame backpack. For me that is Osprey, Dana Designs or Mammot, depending on the technicalities and trip length. The second camera is an a7r with one lens in a small chest pouch. I use that for photos on the trail that don’t warrant taking the pack off and setting up the tripod. That camera could be anything from an iPhone to an a7riv or similar. Actually, I think the rx1r would be perfect!

Anyway, I find backpacking with the technical camera a real joy. As I mentioned previously, I’ve pretty much solved the weight problem by refining my kit over many years, and part of the joy is refining my field workflow systems too.

Although we’ve all given a lot of lens recommendations, you can tell we are not too opinionated on the actual camera choice. It is just so important to find the one that fits your preferred “way of working” in the field, and the one who’s quirks are irrelevant and strengths are critical to you.

Dave

 

[Geoff]

The comment about workflow and style is most relevant. While there has been talk about 3100 vs. 4150, in reality there are many older, and lesser backs that give quite a bit of pleasure. While I’d love a later big back with live view, life isn’t so bad with an older Credo 60. While the live view is lousy, it can be made to work, especially when it is needed for the odd focusing condition. Or chimping. And the files are lovely. Sure for monster size prints, the. Bigger backs are good, even necessary perhaps for huge prints, but for medium to large prints, there are other choices.

Two other key ingredients are as important as camera, back and lens are the tripod setup, and the way in which the camera system works for you. Tripod setup is as simple as finding what works for you, and that you are comfortable le working from a tripod. This may include the right tripod, the right head, etc., and comfort carrying it. Ask around here how many tripods we own, and how many heads.

As to the camera system - well, that’s a tougher matter. While everyone loves what works for them, but what works for one may not work for another. Of the four major tech camera systems - three are pancake style (Arca, Alpa, Cambo) and one is a traditional tech setup (Linhof Techno).Each have their own virtues, and even their own shortcomings, and sussing this out takes time. I’ve experienced three of the four closely, and what was initially important has turned out to be not quite right a couple of times... there are subtleties in the use of each system which is not apparent in the first couple of hours...

As someone noted above, use of tech camera changes not only what you see, but how you work. The recommendation here is to go slow early on, do get your hands on the gear (internet review largely useless), and don ‘t over invest at the beginning. Things will change, and if one happily starts modestly, it’s easy to build over time with increased certainty.

 

[Greg Haag]

The comment about workflow and style is most relevant. While there has been talk about 3100 vs. 4150, in reality there are many older, and lesser backs that give quite a bit of pleasure. While I’d love a later big back with live view, life isn’t so bad with an older Credo 60. While the live view is lousy, it can be made to work, especially when it is needed for the odd focusing condition. Or chimping. And the files are lovely. Sure for monster size prints, the. Bigger backs are good, even necessary perhaps for huge prints, but for medium to large prints, there are other choices.

Two other key ingredients are as important as camera, back and lens are the tripod setup, and the way in which the camera system works for you. Tripod setup is as simple as finding what works for you, and that you are comfortable le working from a tripod. This may include the right tripod, the right head, etc., and comfort carrying it. Ask around here how many tripods we own, and how many heads.

As to the camera system - well, that’s a tougher matter. While everyone loves what works for them, but what works for one may not work for another. Of the four major tech camera systems - three are pancake style (Arca, Alpa, Cambo) and one is a traditional tech setup (Linhof Techno).Each have their own virtues, and even their own shortcomings, and sussing this out takes time. I’ve experienced three of the four closely, and what was initially important has turned out to be not quite right a couple of times... there are subtleties in the use of each system which is not apparent in the first couple of hours...

As someone noted above, use of tech camera changes not only what you see, but how you work. The recommendation here is to go slow early on, do get your hands on the gear (internet review largely useless), and don ‘t over invest at the beginning. Things will change, and if one happily starts modestly, it’s easy to build over time with increased certainty.

Geoff,
I really appreciate your insight on this!

As far as tripods and heads are concerned, I think/hope I am ok, I love my current setup. I have 2 tripods, the Gitzo Systematic Series 3 Carbon Fiber (60”) and the Gitzo Traveler Series 1 Carbon Fiber (60”). For my heads, I have the RRS BH-55 (Lever-Release Panning) and the Arca-Swiss d4 (geared).

As to the camera system, I think I want a pancake stye, and probably leaning toward Arca or Cambo 1600. Some things of importance here for me are ease of use, weight and compactness.

Thank you again for your insight, any other thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Greg

 

[Greg Haag]

Well, after agonizing over this for over a year, this is the setup I am leaning toward purchasing thru a dealer. I would love any feedback on anything left out, or tweaks you might recommend. I really appreciate all the help everyone has given in this thread as well as thru PM's!
Thanks again,
Greg

Phase One IQ3 100 Digital Back
Certified Pre-Owned
5,800 shots
Value Add Warranty through April 2021


Cambo WRS 1600
New

Rodenstock 32mm/4 HR-W Lens in Cambo Copal Shutter Lenspanel
Certified Pre-Owned, 1 Year Warranty

Cambo WRS Interface for IQ4
New

 

[jng]

That's a nice kit you've put together! You can build on it with other lenses as you become familiar with the new setup and sort out your needs, er, I mean wants. :angel:

Question: is the Rodie 32mm in tilt/swing mount? Even at this relatively short focal length, having the ability to control depth of field via tilt and swing can be useful.

- John

 

[Greg Haag]

That's a nice kit you've put together! You can build on it with other lenses as you become familiar with the new setup and sort out your needs, er, I mean wants. :angel:

Question: is the Rodie 32mm in tilt/swing mount? Even at this relatively short focal length, having the ability to control depth of field via tilt and swing can be useful.

- John

Thanks John, yes, I past "needs" a long time ago. The lens mentioned is not tilt/swing, I have struggled with how important this is for me.

 

[kdphotography]

Well, since you're still building your tech cam kit----and allowing everyone here to enjoy spending your money, you might as well add:

AS Cube on heavier leg set
AS L60 Leveler aka mini-Cube for your travel tripod legs (I recommend the Novoflex tripod with built in leveling base which maintains a lower profile and gives the L60 more adjustment reach)

AS Quick Link or the Graham Welland RRS tripod quick release Dovetail system---to make swapping heads and removal of heads for travel easy.
Cambo rear cover plates WRS 1100 See, https://www.digitalback.com/product/cambo-wrs-1100-rear-cover-plate-for-wrs-lens-panels/

Ken

 

[BFD]

Cambo rear cover plates WRS 1100 See, https://www.digitalback.com/product/cambo-wrs-1100-rear-cover-plate-for-wrs-lens-panels/

Or I could make you custom carbon fiber composite rear cover plates for nearly half the price of the Cambo ones complete with custom lens numbers (cinema style). I'm not sure why the Cambo ones have the 2 slits in the them since they are being sold as "dust covers" but those slits would let dust in.

 

[jng]

I was interested in the Cambo rear mount covers until I saw the price. For all the $$ that I've spent on camera equipment I don't really need, 83 bucks just doesn't compute for me value-wise. The small Op/tech lens hats (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/179422-REG/OP_TECH_USA_8001112_Hood_Hat_Small.html) work well for the non-t/s mounts (I find that the t/s mechanism gets in the way on the short helical mounts). Otherwise I just use the rear lens cap or where the cap is difficult to reach (as with the 70HR), I simply store the lens cap-less with the open side facing down in the case.

John

P.S. Glad to see that Ken is still actively enabling!

 

[RLB]

Thanks John, yes, I past "needs" a long time ago. The lens mentioned is not tilt/swing, I have struggled with how important this is for me.

The Arca uses a single front mount mechanism that tilts all lenses and is built into the camera body. Alpa and Cambo system require it on each lens mount ($$$$). The Cambo also has far more play in the mechanism than I'd like, but that's me.

Robert

 

[jng]

Thanks John, yes, I past "needs" a long time ago. The lens mentioned is not tilt/swing, I have struggled with how important this is for me.

A good copy of the Rodie 32 in Copal shutter mount may not be that easy to find, so you might do well to forgo t/s for now and see how things work out. Worst case scenario is you spend a few thousand dollars to get it re-mounted in t/s by Cambo (don't you like how we're all enjoying spending your money?).

Note that other forum members have cautioned about this lens's propensity to go out of alignment owing to the large mass of the front element group and the attendant stress it places on the Copal shutter. The newer aperture-only mounts are touted to be more robust, but lack a manual shutter which means placing a lens cap over the front every time the IQ3100 asks for a dark frame (welcome to the world of "contemplative" photography :banghead. This can be a bit of a PITA if you are working with square or grad ND filters. In contrast, with the Copal you simply close the shutter manually.

John

 

[GrahamWelland]

You know, I think that Greg just needs to come along to a dealer or group meet up and we can share all of the accumulated knowledge/experience we’ve all been through with technical cameras ... :thumbs:

Big glass / copal shutter stress, LCC’s, exposure time variability, electronic shutter shooting, how to pack a bag, eyeball reflections on the LCD in the morning, how you can’t see crap at sunrise / sunset off the LCD due to the UV even early/late if you have transitions eye glass lenses (I have two sets - with and without) etc etc.

 

[Greg Haag]

The Arca uses a single front mount mechanism that tilts all lenses and is built into the camera body. Alpa and Cambo system require it on each lens mount ($$$$). The Cambo also has far more play in the mechanism than I'd like, but that's me.

Robert

Robert,
Thank you for your feedback! That is a very good point as it relates to the Arca, I will give that more thought over the weekend.
Thanks again,
Greg

 

[Greg Haag]

A good copy of the Rodie 32 in Copal shutter mount may not be that easy to find, so you might do well to forgo t/s for now and see how things work out. Worst case scenario is you spend a few thousand dollars to get it re-mounted in t/s by Cambo (don't you like how we're all enjoying spending your money?).

Note that other forum members have cautioned about this lens's propensity to go out of alignment owing to the large mass of the front element group and the attendant stress it places on the Copal shutter. The newer aperture-only mounts are touted to be more robust, but lack a manual shutter which means placing a lens cap over the front every time the IQ3100 asks for a dark frame (welcome to the world of "contemplative" photography :banghead. This can be a bit of a PITA if you are working with square or grad ND filters. In contrast, with the Copal you simply close the shutter manually.

John

Thank you for your insight John! The delicate aspect of the 32HR is my biggest concern with that lens, in that regard, the 40HR is tempting. Also, if I understand correctly at some point in the near future the Copal shutter may not be available, what do you do at that point if your shutter needs replacing?
Thanks again,
Greg