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Focus stacking with tech cam.

danlindberg

Well-known member
I have also encountered these clusters of blurness. But atleast in my case (lucky?) they are in places where it is rather easy to mask & clone.
 

vjbelle

Well-known member
I have had very successful results in the field by focusing with the rear standard from near to far. I also use peaking to visually guide me which is very helpful. For an average scene I may take six to eight images with my 60XL at f10.

Victor
 

mristuccia

Well-known member
I can't see any way to circumvent this other than a lot of editing in post.
Wow, never encountered nor even thought about this case.
What about closing the diaphragm to the maximum allowed by the lens just to get enough DOF and thus data/texture out of this problematic point and then clone only that part into the stacked image?
 

dchew

Well-known member
Those blurry areas are exactly what I am referring to. I was hoping moving the sensor would mean minimize them because there is not as much change in perspective. I did one quick test and they are still there. Haven’t yet had a chance to compare with other methods.

Dave
 

Shashin

Well-known member
I think there is no solution as it is an overlapping/parallax issue. As you move the focus plane, the element further away is obscured by the element above it. It is in a dead zone in regards to the motion needed to stack. As mristuccia sugeested, only a large DoF is going to get to that detail. One method may be combining a stack with an image with a large DoF for those areas that lose detail. Or simply shoot at a different angle which has no overlap.
 

stngoldberg

Well-known member
I think there is no solution as it is an overlapping/parallax issue. As you move the focus plane, the element further away is obscured by the element above it. It is in a dead zone in regards to the motion needed to stack. As mristuccia sugeested, only a large DoF is going to get to that detail. One method may be combining a stack with an image with a large DoF for those areas that lose detail. Or simply shoot at a different angle which has no overlap.
So that begs the question...why not use tilt with your tech camera and stack those images with that additional DOF?
Stanley
 

gerald.d

Well-known member
So that begs the question...why not use tilt with your tech camera and stack those images with that additional DOF?
Stanley
I could be wrong, but in the example I posted, I don’t think it’s realistic to use tilt to solve the problem - the angle is simply too great.

Kind regards,


Gerald.
 

gerald.d

Well-known member
Wow, never encountered nor even thought about this case.
What about closing the diaphragm to the maximum allowed by the lens just to get enough DOF and thus data/texture out of this problematic point and then clone only that part into the stacked image?
Unfortunately not an option as the depth of focus here is measured in microns, not millimeters. Additionally you’d hit problems with diffraction.

Kind regards,


Gerald.
 

Pemihan

Well-known member
What about LCC? Theoretically you should make one for every shot as focus changes. Do you just make one and call it a day or?
 

jng

Well-known member
What about LCC? Theoretically you should make one for every shot as focus changes. Do you just make one and call it a day or?
I just shoot one LCC at the end of the stack. Seems to work fine for me.

John
 

Pemihan

Well-known member
I just shoot one LCC at the end of the stack. Seems to work fine for me.

John
Great, I'll try that. I just need to get these Cambo Macro Adapters WRS-1010 and WRS-1017 so if anyone have them lying around and don't use them give me a shout!
 

f8orbust

Active member
I don't do macro stuff so much any more, but when I did I followed the rule of keeping the distance between the lens and subject fixed and then moving the back to create the image slices to stack. That way the subject always stays the same size on film/DB, which really helps produce a quality stack. Alpa's focus stacking kit for the FPS looks like a great, if expensive, solution for MF macro with a tech cam since it follows this principle. You could 'roll your own' by using the non-Alpa-branded-original-Novoflex parts, but without an FPS you'll be triggering each shot manually which - for high magnification subjects - introduces the potential for small alignment errors. That said, software like Helicon can easily deal with this sort of stuff.
 
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