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- Thread starter Rethmeier
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Dale Allyn
New member
I wondered about this too, especially with regard to A-S. I wasn't sure if Clam would do so, as in other parts of Asia it is quite common to machine something locally. But this is also where I would expect to see any differences in precision, if present, as is often the case with machined parts in Asia if they don't have very good shop management. With good management though, very precise machining can be arranged. It all boils down to meticulous direction.
Lars,
Let me clarify;
I have seen an Ebony 23S in a used shop in Shanghai. Its rails were misaligned. Yup the surface treatment of the wood was better than Shen-Hao, as in fine veneer ebony furniture like. When using a camera for actual photography, does that matter? To me, not. I do not know if some of detailed work or control mechanisms on an Ebony can be better. Lets face it, the cameras are for photography (well some buy for display also...). The Shen-Hao camera looks more beautiful to me because of the color of the wood. The Ebony looks dark and murky. After all a large format camera is a simple device. If mine breaks on travels I might simply replace it with a new one for fraction of the probable price that sending an Ebony to Japan and back for repair and their repair cost could be. Replacing is also simpler, but I also travel many times to Shanghai each year. Mine is the Shen-Hao TFC45-IIB non folding 4x5, a competitor to Ebony SW45. If you feel a yearn to visit China, perhaps buy a 617 in their shop in Shanghai? They have a 617 adapter also. I have it but will soon sell it because too much gear. I am working on a custom made digital adapter instead.
South Korea? I lived and worked there over three years until early last year. I was supervising a major engineering construction project. Koreans are in general good to quality up to a certain point. Some companies are capable of exceptional quality. Markins is one such. I would not trade my Markins for anything, and I have been through a number of ballheads last six years. When writing emails they can sound like young people, but it is in a friendly way
. Willem,
Good luck on your cube! It indeed looks very good on the photos. Do check so there is not play at different adjustment positions or have them rectify. Should work fine hopefully. After all gear is just tools. A/S cube is 2400 USD on B&H??? Yikes... why? Transport is cheap these days, must be labor etc.
Regards
Anders
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Hi Willem,
The Multiflex then sounds as good quality as my Markins ballhead. Perhaps they have some kind of relation??
Anders
C
carbonmetrictree
Guest
I'm really glad that you received a great product after all of the commotion that occurred!
My only question is:
Are the bubble levels and rotating platform accurate out of the box?
My only question is:
Are the bubble levels and rotating platform accurate out of the box?
Lars
Active member
Very cool looking images, I've never seen one - Cube or otherwise - close up before. I'm impressed. Seeing the photos, I have to admit I want one.
I've stayed away from geared heads in the past becasue they are too slow to operate. It does make sense to use a geared head on 8x10, but I have my doubts if it could really hold my Toyo - once you add rails, lens, film holder, shade it weighs in at 12-15 kgs distributed at both ends of an up to 1000 mm long rail. Those little brass or bronze gears might be fine for an SLR but with an 8x10 monorail the center of mass is 25 cm up from the mount. It would just break from the load if not properly balanced. And the camera itself is all geared once you level it, so there is no need for precision head movements, just a strong lockdown. As a contrast, my Burzynski ballhead has only five parts (plus four huge bolts) and they are all huge - it's virtually indestructible, handles field conditions like sand and mud with a stride.
For smaller formats like 4x5 a cube is too heavy at 900 grams - a good small ballhead at 450 grams is sufficient for a wood 4x5 unless you have really bad technique. And for an SLR a ballhead makes much more sense - for me - unless I would do specialized work like macro and product shots.
Seeing the photos, I have to admit I want one. I've stayed away from geared heads in the past becasue they are too slow to operate. It does make sense to use a geared head on 8x10, but I have my doubts if it could really hold my Toyo - once you add rails, lens, film holder, shade it weighs in at 12-15 kgs distributed at both ends of an up to 1000 mm long rail. Those little brass or bronze gears might be fine for an SLR but with an 8x10 monorail the center of mass is 25 cm up from the mount. It would just break from the load if not properly balanced. And the camera itself is all geared once you level it, so there is no need for precision head movements, just a strong lockdown. As a contrast, my Burzynski ballhead has only five parts (plus four huge bolts) and they are all huge - it's virtually indestructible, handles field conditions like sand and mud with a stride.
For smaller formats like 4x5 a cube is too heavy at 900 grams - a good small ballhead at 450 grams is sufficient for a wood 4x5 unless you have really bad technique. And for an SLR a ballhead makes much more sense - for me - unless I would do specialized work like macro and product shots.
It will hold it, but not very well -- nowhere near as well as your Burzynski or an Arca B2.
The advantage of the Cube is the speed and accuracy with which you can zero -- no fuddling around trying to align all axes at once -- combined with relatively light weight for its rigidity, which is more than adequate for 4x5 or MF systems with big glass attached...
Cheers,
shakeshuck
Member
Guys!
I've found the perfect accessory to complement your cube!
Take a look at this...
http://www.wista.co.jp/new/new_6way.html
I've found the perfect accessory to complement your cube!
Take a look at this...
http://www.wista.co.jp/new/new_6way.html
vs.
Who now pays for the development of the Rm3d? Or will you just take the superior Rm3d from Photoclam which arrives next year? And you wondering about the economy (ok, just ONE important aspect)?
I seriously hope you as photographers will never run into someone who operates like this with your work.
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One question on the photoclam ballhead -- On the A/S B1, the ball is actually egg-shaped to prevent a total flop-over when the friction is released, so as the camera moves off Top-Dead-Center on the B1, the amount of friction automatically increases. Is the PhotoClam the same?
stephengilbert
Active member
Not to worry Jack, if your camera is damaged using their head, you can buy the PhotoClam knock-off camera next year. :thumbup:
shakeshuck
Member
Many a true word...
I certainly would not like to see a complete Arca knock-off range produced; that would definitely "not be cricket".