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Question about a used X1D

Thorkil

Well-known member
I found myself In the same situation regarding X1D files in C1 and have successfully used a process that was suggested on this forum some time ago. It involves making a small modification to the Exif data and, having used the principle regularly for some time now, can report that it works well - and the Exif Editor costs less than $10.
I’ve compared images that I’ve processed directly from Phocus, Lightroom and C1 (via LR and the Exif mod) and, whilst there are differences in the results, the final images can be adjusted to be near identical. To my eyes anyway.
Phocus is a perfectly competent bit of software but I’m used to C1 and much more comfortable working with it than I am with Phocus. That’s probably just down to familiarity but I’m happier going through the fairly simple process of Exif editing my best X1D images in order to bring them into my comfort zone of C1. I think it’s worth the small cost and extra fiddle but, of course, others may not agree.
This may be a bit paranoid but I’m a little bit nervous of Phase closing this loophole (if that’s what it is) so won’t detail it here - although it is similar to the one described on the thread I mentioned earlier. I’m happy to describe my process though if you want to send me a PM.
Oh and in answer to your original post, I’m very happy with my X1D as a lightweight MF alternative to my Phase kit. It’s a lovely little camera to use and, although it will never match an IQ3 100 for outright quality of course, it produces some excellent images. I just have to be more careful with my framing compared to the (rather lazy) cropping that I can do in Post with the IQ3 file. :thumbup:
Paul
Thank you very much. I must add, that after being here for several years now, I have for long time acknowledged that I am on a much lower level of knowledge and handling capabilities than the majority of you guess and girls - which mean that the only program I have found out is C1. Yes, and in the beginning, admitted, I only spend half an hour at Lightroom, where I even could not find out importing a file - I gave up, and turned solely to C1, which for me was very intuitive, and I could avoid reading anything about it, just doing it - so therefore I would/will sell my grandmother to ensure staying by C1 :eek:.
I do have had and still have, unaltered, a very soft spot for Hasselblad, so that extremely elegant and well-designed "pocket-MF" has all time just been that sweat dream. The 110/2 FE with adapter is about 146mm long, ok not exactly a compact-lens, but not longer than fex. the 135 XCD.
KR Thorkil
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Using the camea in manual mode removes many of its percieved limitations with regards to slow auofocus etc...using it with your FE110/2 should yield stunning results - was one of my all time favourite 5 lenses. Good thinking on your part to experiment with the ES - as this not only opens up creative possibilities with selective blur and distortion but also via adapter - lenses which you might already own - I used the X1D quite well with some Zeiss glass in the past. Also I found that LR worked quite well with the native files - I wouldn't bother with the renaming to fool C1 routines unless you then wish to make your own ICC files...you will find that B&W conversions yield stunning results with this sensor as evidenced by the work of some landscape photographers on here.

atb
Pete
Thank you very much Peter.. :)
KR Thorkil
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Inspired by this thread I tried the Hasselblad CF80 on the X1D with full movements on Alpa Plus. I am pleasently surprised and thought I share.

This image I have on purpose maxed out movements with 20mm fall. Note that I have NOT compensated for vignetting, there is zero even at this kind of movement. Can't tell edge resolution because of quite shallow dof even at f8. Focuspoint at midrange element on speaker and I made a 100% crop from that part (no sharpening at all). Not too shabby from a lens that I bought early eighties....




 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Inspired by this thread I tried the Hasselblad CF80 on the X1D with full movements on Alpa Plus. I am pleasently surprised and thought I share.

This image I have on purpose maxed out movements with 20mm fall. Note that I have NOT compensated for vignetting, there is zero even at this kind of movement. Can't tell edge resolution because of quite shallow dof even at f8. Focuspoint at midrange element on speaker and I made a 100% crop from that part (no sharpening at all). Not too shabby from a lens that I bought early eighties....
]
Thanks Dan! Very inspiring! I can see you have, what might be a very forgiving wife, mine, even though microskopic compared to yours, stereo, are banned from the livingroom, and in exile here in my workingroom at the top of the house where my wife very seldom is climbing up :)
I envy you that swedish (I presume) tile stove. In my dream, we should have had one of these (and total circular) in the living room, but Irene who comes from a painter family, banned it, because it will destroy the oilpaintings. I'm sure it won't, but can't document it..
kr thorkil
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Thorkil, I am surprised that it holds up this well with 20mm shift and will do more testing when I can, haven't been able today...

We live in a hundred year old (this year actually, it was built 1920) house and in those times the doctors and high society people always demanded two living rooms. So....one for my wife and one for me :) But, credit to my wife here because she knows how much the hifi means to me. I'm a bigtime audiophile and musiclover and she is fine with this as long as I try the best I can to hide cables and keep it tidy!

As to the tile stove. Yes, lovely creations and this is original to the house, thus, also a hundred years old and still burns beautifully. Now, there is a method of how to use tile stoves. You cannot use them as you do nowadays. You need to warm it up slowly with a small fire and the stove damper all open. When your 'small' fire is steady you feel the outer side until the heat goes through. This usually takes atleast half an hour, feeding the fire very little at a time. After 15-20 minutes you close the damper halfways, but wait another 20 before you put in two bigger pieces of wood an dat the same time close the damper 80%. There should now be around 3kg inside and this will burn vary slowly for atleast two hours and when this is burnt down you close the damper 100% and the stove will remain warm to your hand for 10 hours.
If you do it like this, you can asure your wife no oilpaintings are in harmsway! The problem is with people not knowing how to work it and keeps on feeding it with firewood.....
Not cheap....a guestimate to buy and have it installed of a 100 year old tile stove today would cost you north of $ 10 000.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
I'm thinking of buying a used Hasselblad X1D, while its a very good offer, to put an adapter and my 50/2.8 FE and my 110/2 FE lenses on.
As a supplement for film.
I have read Vieri's review of his X1D, and its very encouraging to me.
Any thoughts in general, and any experience with adapted FE lenses?
And any idea of resulting angle in 35 format?
(and no, I cant afford native lenses for the time being, so have to rely on the two FE's)
KR Thorkil
Working with adapted FE lenses will be just like working with any adapted lens, other than that they will more than cover the 33x44 mm sensor. In other words, it'll all work fine modulo the electronic shutter behaviors, etc, that have been well documented (both here and in the Hasselblad instructional material).

I have used several of my Leica R and M lenses adapted to the 907x, which works pretty much the same way the X1D or X1D II will work with adapted lenses. You have to be careful with camera and subject movement to prevent distortion (and might enjoy introducing such distortions if it pleases you for some purposes). Beyond that, I'm finding that my M and R lenses perform very well on the sensor, and several of them that I've tested cover the entire sensor with no fall-off or hard vignetting noticeable, for example the Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm. I think I'm going to try 'ultra radical' this morning and see how well my Leica Super-Elmar-R 15mm and Voigtländer HyperWide 10mm do on the big sensor. The results should be silly wide. :)

The X1D is a fine body and gives you access to the XCD lenses too when in the future you might be able to acquire them. The XCD 21mm lens is an outstanding ultra wide on 33x44 mm. Hopefully, the XCD 45P I ordered will eventually surface too, I'd really like to have that FoV in a native lens as well.

As to other options for a 'digital Hasselblad', well, Richard Man stopped by with his un-modified 203FE last week (before the COVID-19 'Shelter at Home' orders were in place) and we experimented with the CFVII 50c from my 907x fitted on it. Neither of us spent too much time learning how to use it properly, we did most things wrong, but just slapping it on there and making a few photos with it produced very nice results. I (and Richard) subsequently read a bit more of the CFVII 50c manual and we could do a much better job of it now ... That's another path to a digital Hasselblad system for an existing V system owner. With my 500CM and C/CF lenses, it's simpler than with the 203FE ... just fitting the back and using the camera as you normally do works very well. The price is the cost of the CFVII 50c back, which is not quite available yet as a standalone product but should be soon (modulo the covid hell).

So there are options, and you have some choices to make. Certainly the used X1D if available at a reasonable price is a good option. These bodies/sensors are super, and I might eventually grab one myself as well since I'm liking the 907x/CFVII 50c so much. :D

G
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Thorkil, I am surprised that it holds up this well with 20mm shift and will do more testing when I can, haven't been able today...

We live in a hundred year old (this year actually, it was built 1920) house and in those times the doctors and high society people always demanded two living rooms. So....one for my wife and one for me :) But, credit to my wife here because she knows how much the hifi means to me. I'm a bigtime audiophile and musiclover and she is fine with this as long as I try the best I can to hide cables and keep it tidy!

As to the tile stove. Yes, lovely creations and this is original to the house, thus, also a hundred years old and still burns beautifully. Now, there is a method of how to use tile stoves. You cannot use them as you do nowadays. You need to warm it up slowly with a small fire and the stove damper all open. When your 'small' fire is steady you feel the outer side until the heat goes through. This usually takes atleast half an hour, feeding the fire very little at a time. After 15-20 minutes you close the damper halfways, but wait another 20 before you put in two bigger pieces of wood an dat the same time close the damper 80%. There should now be around 3kg inside and this will burn vary slowly for atleast two hours and when this is burnt down you close the damper 100% and the stove will remain warm to your hand for 10 hours.
If you do it like this, you can asure your wife no oilpaintings are in harmsway! The problem is with people not knowing how to work it and keeps on feeding it with firewood.....
Not cheap....a guestimate to buy and have it installed of a 100 year old tile stove today would cost you north of $ 10 000.
Hi Dan. I am not familiar with shift, but it certainly looks good! Got my X1D yesterday, but the adapter is on backorder. The eyecup and the topplastic look a bit tired, but else everything look as totally new. Luckily shuttercount is not an issue in this sort of camera :)
Ha-ha, we also live in an old upper-class home, we bought it for almost nothing in 1984 (built by a shipowner whose only ship was sunk by German submarines while sailing on Russia during World War I - then he had to join A.P.Møller (you know Maersk ships)) - when such houses were very unpopular because of oil-crises. Its from 1896. But we havn't got these huge areas with wood as you do in Sweden, therefore our houses had old castiron stoves for coal, where you all had these wonderfull tile stoves for wood (now its central heating coming from district heating from some huge electrcity-district-heating producing powerplant south of Copenhagen (unforthunatly powered by wood from all over the world incl. Amazonas, Eatern Europe, Alaska, USA, not good..not sustainable I'm afraid).
But one shall choose ones fights carefully, and the tile-stove-combat I have given up upon (and I have spend all the money on 202FA, scanning equipment, 100/2FE and X1D instead...too late now).
At first my thought was that such a stove need hefty firing for 1 hour, but it sounds right what you tell, the carefull way to heating it up, because of the hefty masses and to secure it don't crack I can imagine, and carefully control the air-through thereby (is it about two tons or so? I would also have had to reinforce the wooden-beem-construction underneath - so in the next life, I'll take revenge on the circumstances :)..), I have experienced the attention it demands, while the masses are sucking the warm out of the fire, so one has to give it fully attention until its sufficient warm all over, as you tell. Can you then prevent it from smoking and pollute outside?
best Thorkil
 
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Thorkil

Well-known member
Working with adapted FE lenses will be just like working with any adapted lens, other than that they will more than cover the 33x44 mm sensor. In other words, it'll all work fine modulo the electronic shutter behaviors, etc, that have been well documented (both here and in the Hasselblad instructional material).

I have used several of my Leica R and M lenses adapted to the 907x, which works pretty much the same way the X1D or X1D II will work with adapted lenses. You have to be careful with camera and subject movement to prevent distortion (and might enjoy introducing such distortions if it pleases you for some purposes). Beyond that, I'm finding that my M and R lenses perform very well on the sensor, and several of them that I've tested cover the entire sensor with no fall-off or hard vignetting noticeable, for example the Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm. I think I'm going to try 'ultra radical' this morning and see how well my Leica Super-Elmar-R 15mm and Voigtländer HyperWide 10mm do on the big sensor. The results should be silly wide. :)

The X1D is a fine body and gives you access to the XCD lenses too when in the future you might be able to acquire them. The XCD 21mm lens is an outstanding ultra wide on 33x44 mm. Hopefully, the XCD 45P I ordered will eventually surface too, I'd really like to have that FoV in a native lens as well.

As to other options for a 'digital Hasselblad', well, Richard Man stopped by with his un-modified 203FE last week (before the COVID-19 'Shelter at Home' orders were in place) and we experimented with the CFVII 50c from my 907x fitted on it. Neither of us spent too much time learning how to use it properly, we did most things wrong, but just slapping it on there and making a few photos with it produced very nice results. I (and Richard) subsequently read a bit more of the CFVII 50c manual and we could do a much better job of it now ... That's another path to a digital Hasselblad system for an existing V system owner. With my 500CM and C/CF lenses, it's simpler than with the 203FE ... just fitting the back and using the camera as you normally do works very well. The price is the cost of the CFVII 50c back, which is not quite available yet as a standalone product but should be soon (modulo the covid hell).


So there are options, and you have some choices to make. Certainly the used X1D if available at a reasonable price is a good option. These bodies/sensors are super, and I might eventually grab one myself as well since I'm liking the 907x/CFVII 50c so much. :D

G
Hi Godfrey
I was surely dreaming of your equipment, the 907X for several month, but realized it was out of the edges of my living-budget.. :(
But suddenly the used X1D appeared by the Hasselblad importer-dealer in Copenhagen together with a 20% Corona-discount which ended sunday (not the corona - unforthunatly..) - it came by as a manageable project and lifebelt in my MF-digitalization-dreams (but don't tell my wife!). I gave up upon a back for my 202FA (had the 203FE before, I went mad and sold it) and turned to the slim-super-sleek extremely delicate X1D. Now it sits here (2.200$ without taxes), beside me, looking rather good and is waiting for the adapter
Yes that lens, the 45 XCD 4.0 P - a very affordable lens, and it gets even more compact than my Z7 with a 35/1.8 on and just some 75 gram more heavy in total, and apart for already having used the budget for the rest of the year/s, that one could be funny to have for street and casual MF-shooting.
https://fstoppers.com/originals/fst...-lightest-medium-format-lens-ever-made-451300
AF on this lens might be bad, but one just have to prefocus then, I guess.
The 21mm will unfortunately remain in the horizon until circumstances changes.
best Thorkil
 

Photon42

Well-known member
I thought hard about the 45 but ultimately went for the 65 2.8 as the first lens. Both AF and MF with this lens work well, once you get the hang of it. I almost exclusively use the X1D as a manual only camera with occasional help from the AF (back button config). For me, that seems the best setup.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Hi Godfrey
I was surely dreaming of your equipment, the 907X for several month, but realized it was out of the edges of my living-budget.. :(
But suddenly the used X1D appeared by the Hasselblad importer-dealer in Copenhagen together with a 20% Corona-discount which ended sunday (not the corona - unforthunatly..) - it came by as a manageable project and lifebelt in my MF-digitalization-dreams (but don't tell my wife!). I gave up upon a back for my 202FA (had the 203FE before, I went mad and sold it) and turned to the slim-super-sleek extremely delicate X1D. Now it sits here (2.200$ without taxes), beside me, looking rather good and is waiting for the adapter
Yes that lens, the 45 XCD 4.0 P - a very affordable lens, and it gets even more compact than my Z7 with a 35/1.8 on and just some 75 gram more heavy in total, and apart for already having used the budget for the rest of the year/s, that one could be funny to have for street and casual MF-shooting.
https://fstoppers.com/originals/fst...-lightest-medium-format-lens-ever-made-451300
AF on this lens might be bad, but one just have to prefocus then, I guess.
The 21mm will unfortunately remain in the horizon until circumstances changes.
best Thorkil
From others who have used the 45P, the AF isn't "bad" ... It just is different and not as quick as the standard issue XCD 45mm, supposedly. I dunno, I'll figure it out when I get it. Ultra-zoomy AF isn't very important to me; I'm perfectly happy to focus manually when needed. :)

I started with the XCD 21mm as my base native lens for the 907x because, beyond that, I have a nice 500CM kit with 50, 80, 120, and 150 mm lenses that I can simply drop the back onto and be shooting with. That gives me the "all digital SWC" when cropped square, something I've been trying to achieve for a dozen or more years. And now with it in hand, it does the job beautifully.

The 45P nets a native mount/full function equivalent to the 80mm on the 500CM with film, so it's a natural lens for me to have to use the 907x for more general purpose shooting.

Since you're looking at adapting lenses to X mount, the conversation yesterday led me to play with a couple of my R and M lenses on the adapters with the 907x. I wrote about it in the "Fun With Hasselblad 907x" thread I posted to this morning.

The Pentax-L 43mm Special in M mount and the Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm in R mount are two lenses that I've used a bit on the 907x so far. They both work brilliantly on the 907x ... the 43 when cropped to square as per my usual, the 60 even used full frame. The 43 makes me look forward to having the 45P native lens! :D

enjoy, G
 
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