help identifying a capacitor on a Rollei Hy6

[mattlock]

You should measure with a Multimeter (set to Ohm / Resistance), if there is a direct Connection (close to Zero Ohms) from from the Metal-Part of the Socket (in Your First Photo Bottom / left - soldered with four big Solderpads to the PCB) to one of the Solder-Pads of the burnt Capacitor.
If there is - that Solderpad is Minus.

thanks! yes next step I would need rope in an electrical engineering friend to help further..at least I've managed to identify some of these details with the help of all you wonderful people. Just need to now identify that blown component- still abit confused whether it's a capacitor or something else

 

[JonathanP]

So the Inductor is the square component with the 100 marking correct? and the capacitors are the rectangular components surrounding it.

Yes that's correct. And on the chip, pin 1 is marked by the circular indent and the pins number down that side and then back up the other side. May help if you can identify if the tracks from the blown component go to any of the pins on the regulator chip.

 

[DBF]

The three brown SMD-Parts around the Inductor are ceramic Capacitors (small value 10nF to 100 nF?) - the two with numbers on them are Resistors - the one grey is a small Capacitor (some pF´s).
Try to solder the burnt Part off - CAREFULL - to see more Traces.

 

[mattlock]

The three brown SMD-Parts around the Inductor are ceramic Capacitors (small value 10nF to 100 nF?) - the two with numbers on them are Resistors - the one grey is a small Capacitor (some pF´s).
Try to solder the burnt Part off - CAREFULL - to see more Traces.

I'll pop by my workplace tomorrow to get it soldered off and report back in.

 

[mattlock]

hi guys
so I soldered off the component, and the pares are underneath.
Also the component fell apart abit when I took it off. Any ideas what it is and how I can test it?

 

[DBF]

Lets try Step by Step.
There is a Trace connecting the two Resistors (black with "224" and 393") on right f the IC. To which Pin of the IC is it connected?
Is one of the Pads of the soldered off Part connected to the Metal of the connecting Jack? (left down Corner of the first Photo.
The lower Pad of the soldered off Part has a small Trace ending in a "Hole" - that is called Via. Try to find out to which Pin of other Part it is connected.
The upper Pad has a Trace going under the IC. To which Pin of the IC is it connected?
For easier conversation:
Zhe IC has a Marking in the lower left Corner. That Pin is "1". Counting to the Right is 2,3,4 and 5. Pin in upper Right Corner is "6" counting up to the Right 7, 8, 9, 10

 

[mattlock]

Lets try Step by Step.
There is a Trace connecting the two Resistors (black with "224" and 393") on right f the IC. To which Pin of the IC is it connected?
Is one of the Pads of the soldered off Part connected to the Metal of the connecting Jack? (left down Corner of the first Photo.
The lower Pad of the soldered off Part has a small Trace ending in a "Hole" - that is called Via. Try to find out to which Pin of other Part it is connected.
The upper Pad has a Trace going under the IC. To which Pin of the IC is it connected?
For easier conversation:
Zhe IC has a Marking in the lower left Corner. That Pin is "1". Counting to the Right is 2,3,4 and 5. Pin in upper Right Corner is "6" counting up to the Right 7, 8, 9, 10

I reversed the image of the back so it's easier to trace. So you can see the via hole 1 at the bottom goes to the hole 1 on the next picture. Same for A and B

 

[mattlock]

There is a Trace connecting the two Resistors (black with "224" and 393") on right f the IC. To which Pin of the IC is it connected?

I assume it's pin 3 based on pin 1 being at the bottom left

Is one of the Pads of the soldered off Part connected to the Metal of the connecting Jack? (left down Corner of the first Photo.

I"m not sure what you mean by Jack on this one

The lower Pad of the soldered off Part has a small Trace ending in a "Hole" - that is called Via. Try to find out to which Pin of other Part it is connected.

Are you referring to the hole in between the two pads of the component? The hole below it is the one I marked as 1 and it connected to Pin 1 on the IC.It doesn't seem to trace to anything on the underside

The upper Pad has a Trace going under the IC. To which Pin of the IC is it connected?

I can't tell which pin it's connected to but based on what I see currently, pin 1 and 3 and in use, there's a trace from the resistors going under the IC also (so maybe either 4 or 5 is in use too?
apart from that I only see pin 9 going to the 100 component (inductor?)

 

[Hasslebad]

I reversed the image of the back so it's easier to trace. So you can see the via hole 1 at the bottom goes to the hole 1 on the next picture. Same for A and B
View attachment 149231View attachment 149233

Good image of the bottom of the board. Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can set it to continuity test and probe pin 1 and pad A listen for a beep and then pin 1 and pad B and listen for a beep. That will give you confirmation which pad (if any) is connected to pin 1.

The damaged component looks like a tantalum capacitor to me but it would be good to find out what it is connected to. That might be a multilayer printed circuit board and if so we won’t see the traces in the inner layers .

 

[mattlock]

Good image of the bottom of the board. Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can set it to continuity test and probe pin 1 and pad A listen for a beep and then pin 1 and pad B and listen for a beep. That will give you confirmation which pad (if any) is connected to pin 1.

The damaged component looks like a tantalum capacitor to me but it would be good to find out what it is connected to. That might be a multilayer printed circuit board and if so we won’t see the traces in the inner layers .

I was just about to post , borrowed my friend's digital multimeter to test the component.

will test the traces now

 

[mattlock]

here's a test with the multimeter on the component pads

 

[Hasslebad]

The video of your running the continuity test is helpful. I believe Jonathan has it right when he lists the Texas Instruments TPS62050. The continuity test indicates that the footprint you tested would match a TPS62050 and that the component that burned out is the input capacitor. It is difficult to discern what the original value of that component is since it was destroyed. The data sheet for the TPS62050 recommends a ceramic 10uF capacitor. That value may be a good first try. The recommended capacitor in the data sheet is a TDK C3216X5R1A106M. Their evaluation board uses a Murata GRM32ER61C106KC31. Both are different physical sizes and it depends on what capacitor package the Rollei designer decided to use. What are the dimensions of the burned out component? The first step is to at least find a 10uF ceramic capacitor that is the same physical dimensions as the one that burned out so that it fits on the printed circuit board. The good thing with ceramic capacitors (recommended capacitors) are that they are not polarized so you can solder it in either orientation.

 

[DBF]

Yes, I think all correct.
The smallest Size I found is in Case 1812 - 4.5mm Long - should fit! Cost is +/- 50 Cent buying one Piece.
I would give it a Try!

 

[mattlock]

The video of your running the continuity test is helpful. I believe Jonathan has it right when he lists the Texas Instruments TPS62050. The continuity test indicates that the footprint you tested would match a TPS62050 and that the component that burned out is the input capacitor. It is difficult to discern what the original value of that component is since it was destroyed. The data sheet for the TPS62050 recommends a ceramic 10uF capacitor. That value may be a good first try. The recommended capacitor in the data sheet is a TDK C3216X5R1A106M. Their evaluation board uses a Murata GRM32ER61C106KC31. Both are different physical sizes and it depends on what capacitor package the Rollei designer decided to use. What are the dimensions of the burned out component? The first step is to at least find a 10uF ceramic capacitor that is the same physical dimensions as the one that burned out so that it fits on the printed circuit board. The good thing with ceramic capacitors (recommended capacitors) are that they are not polarized so you can solder it in either orientation.

thank you all for the detective work. I don't have any engineering background so a lot of this has been a learning curve, and I'm looking forward to see if this can be fixed and I can start taking beautiful photos with this.
Hopefully I can contribute back in some way for this help!

 

[lamestllama]

thank you all for the detective work. I don't have any engineering background so a lot of this has been a learning curve, and I'm looking forward to see if this can be fixed and I can start taking beautiful photos with this.
Hopefully I can contribute back in some way for this help!

Well did replacing the capacitor work?