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Vibrations & the Contax 645

BradleyGibson

New member
Jack, you're correct, it was the older (non-D) 150.

You've described the challenges of shooting around 1/15s very well in your above post--thank you!

I didn't realize that (LF) leaf shutters were also similarly impacted in your experience, that is an excellent data point.

Guy, thank you for the samples--the vibrations seem to be there on the Mamiya as well, IMHO possibly one of the best damped systems out there...

Thanks everyone--this thread is a real bonanza of helpful information as I try to get this resolved.

I'm hoping I can convince MFnLF to post a sample with the leaf and focal plane shutters both at 1/15 on his Hasselblad 205FCC--that would really help given that all other variables would be controlled for. :thumbup:

Best,
-Brad
 

MFnLF

Member
I'm hoping I can convince MFnLF to post a sample with the leaf and focal plane shutters both at 1/15 on his Hasselblad 205FCC--that would really help given that all other variables would be controlled for. :thumbup:

Best,
-Brad
Brad, I conducted more tests this morning to shoot at 1/15 with the leaf and focal plane shutters on my 350SA/205FCC/P25. I also repeated same setup three times and the outcomes are very consistent. It looks like both shutters possess problems at 1/15, but the leaf shutter is acceptable. Here are the details of this comparision:

First 100% crop: f8, 1/60, leaf shutter
Second 100% crop: f16, 1/15, leaf shutter
Third 100% crop: f16, 1/15, focal plane shutter
 

BradleyGibson

New member
MFnLF,

Wow--I am stunned at the difference--although I suppose I shouldn't be, at this point. (I assume MLU was used for all three samples?)

Your comparison shot of the leaf shutters at 1/60th is telling as well--even with leaf shutters, vibration robs us of sharpness in the 'dead zone' of 1/15s. (Easily seen with the definition of the screws in the fence). This is something I knew, and that Jack has also been re-iterating, but it was hard to know by how much until seeing these photographs of leaf vs. focal-plane shutter side-by-side.

These will help a great deal as I figure out what (if anything) I should do about my medium format tele dilemma.

Thanks, MF, and best regards,
-Brad
 
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Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Please bear in mind, not all focal plane systems, nor even leaf-shutter systems, are created equal...
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Have to agree Jack my Phase Body was not nearly that bad , that is really bad what body was that. Hassy 205
 

PeterA

Well-known member
C'mon guys - the 200 series Hasselblads werent made with digi backs in mind. they are fully fledged 6x6 cameras with a loud whacking mirror slap that makes the camera move.

Put a 110/2 on one or a FLE 50 and they sing - especially with film.

People have been begging Hasselblad to make an H series focal plane body which they can hang their F/FE glass off for a while now. In the meantime a high megapixel back is better used with a more modern body and an adaptor the only reason I switched from Phase One to Sinar - so I can switch between camera bodies for use of different glass.

Back in hasselblad H land..I shot with my just recieved 300mm HC on the weekend - even with a 1.7X extender wide open @ F7ish the resolution and sharpness @ 300meters was awesome - tripod mounted of course - handholding these long lenses is just a waste of time unless you are shooting high shutter speeds in fat light - give me strobes or give me death! -:)
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I agree Peter it is a older design and was not made for digital but either is the Mamiya body which we need a new one designed. That is just much worse than what I came up with. But these are shot with mirror up, so the mirror really is not in play. At least my mirror was locked and I would assume these are as well.
 

PeterA

Well-known member
Guy I agree - a lot of the MF systems werent designed for the exactitude and capability of teh digi sensors..thats why I stick with Alpa for wide, 35mm for tele and use the MF stuff for in between.

Still the 1/15th issue has been a great example of really useful information on this thread - and Jack's explanation of teh engineering issue behind it is worth bearing in mind - it is a very sound theory..

As an aside I'd like to know how the Phase One back quoted above is actually used on a 200 series camera body..my understanding is that the shutter speed would always be limited to flash sync speed (1/90th) - its why I bought a CFV11 to use with a hasselblad converted for digital 205TCC body and can use the full range of shuuter speeds ...( from Son)
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
That part I don't know either but I do agree this is a very informative thread and very useful data. Now i know what to avoid
 

MFnLF

Member
As an aside I'd like to know how the Phase One back quoted above is actually used on a 200 series camera body..my understanding is that the shutter speed would always be limited to flash sync speed (1/90th) - its why I bought a CFV11 to use with a hasselblad converted for digital 205TCC body and can use the full range of shuuter speeds ...( from Son)
Peter and Guy, you are right the Hasselblad 200 series flash sync speed is limited to 1/90th. With the help of a wakeup cable or cellular phone earphone, here's how I tried solving this problem so the back can work at all high speeds:

1. Press wakeup button once to wake up Phase One back;
2. Within 5 seconds after step 1, press and hold the wakeup button for the 2nd time, now Phase One back assumes shutter is fired, actually it's not;
3. Right after step 2, fire shutter, then release the wakeup button immediately.

The actual idea is to keep the back in "capture" mode while the wakeup button is held, and the shutter should be fired within this period. The only shortcoming might be slightly high noise since the back operates some extra time in dark, but indeed I don't notice any issue with it.

Ling
 
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