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ALPA TC and Phase One P25+

steflaurent974

Active member
Hi

Has anyone ever tried this combination ? I'm thinking of replacing my Hasselblad SWC by a wider lens, fitted for digital.
As I'm looking the ALPA website I was wondering how to build a logical kit for landscape photography and street photography (yes !!).

ALPA TC
HANDGRIP with WAKE UP CABLE on the RIGHT (don't know if it's OK with the TC)
VIEWFINDER
LEVEL
ADAPTER PLATE Hasselblad type...


And then the Lens !!! Wich one to chose ? I really dont know :

Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/35 mm XL
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar digital HR 4.0/35 mm

wich is the best , the Rodenstock is one stop faster...

Any advices are welcome as I really don't know this ALPA system at all.

Stephane
 

stephengilbert

Active member
ALPA just list the TC wake up grip for the left side. You could obtain a wake up cable from Phase or ALPA and attach it wherever you want, or perhaps ask ALPA if they will make you a custom right hand grip with the cable.
 

steflaurent974

Active member
Shame on me Guy, I should have use the search fonction...But on your alpa kit you didn't have such special grip , did you ? I can see a classic flash sync cable for the Phase back.
So I guess the Kit will be :

ALPA 12 TC
Hasselblad plate
Phase One
Viewfinder

and if so there will be a SWC for sale soon !

Did the 35mm need a center filter ?
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
No center filter needed on the 35mm or 47mm but the 24mm you will need one. No worries on the search but thought that article may help a little. Also look at the Cambo RS which is also very small and it can shift on the rear standard but still be a nice Point and shoot style. I had the wake up cable from CI and had to hit that first and within 5 seconds hit the shutter. Or there is a cable from Kapture Group that is 1 shot but about 300 dollars. The folks at CI can get whatever you need in the cable dept. and also a P25 plus and they are a Cambo dealer as well. Fotocare in NY sells Alpa
 

Graham Mitchell

New member
Shame on me Guy, I should have use the search fonction...?
Well in your defence, Guy did spell it "Alpha" instead of "Alpa" :) Guy, perhaps you could edit this to make the thread easier to find?

I had a look at the pics in there again. That's an appealingly small solution to take advantage of those Rodenstock 23 and 28mm lenses. Hmmm...where's that winning lottery ticket?
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Well in your defence, Guy did spell it "Alpha" instead of "Alpa" :) Guy, perhaps you could edit this to make the thread easier to find?

I had a look at the pics in there again. That's an appealingly small solution to take advantage of those Rodenstock 23 and 28mm lenses. Hmmm...where's that winning lottery ticket?
Yea you can bolt your Sinar right up to it. Alpa does have the Sinar plates. Maybe the cheapest way to actually get a super wide for your Backs. Now you can't shift but you can use those nice digitars on it or you can also look at the Cambo Compact same setup and a little less expensive. For you Graham the Alpa maybe easier on that side of the ocean since Cambo I believe is US made??? Not sure about this though
 

lance_schad

Workshop Member
Yea you can bolt your Sinar right up to it. Alpa does have the Sinar plates. Maybe the cheapest way to actually get a super wide for your Backs. Now you can't shift but you can use those nice digitars on it or you can also look at the Cambo Compact same setup and a little less expensive. For you Graham the Alpa maybe easier on that side of the ocean since Cambo I believe is US made??? Not sure about this though
Cambo is manufactured in the Netherlands.

L
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
The Cambo Compact is a good option. It shares the same lenses as the Cambo Wide DS and Wide RS.

Alpa is unquestionably the leader in build quality and sex appeal. But no one who owns a Cambo would say they are sloppy or poorly built. It's more the difference between an A (Cambo) and an A+ (Alpa). Whether the extra cost (more expensive body, accessories, and lenses) is worth that difference is entirely up to you; there is no right or wrong answer. Just make sure you do at least look at both before you decide.

For handheld shooting I highly recommend the Kapture Group 1-shot cable we carry. It allows you to wakeup the back and trigger the shutter in one motion. For tripod use the normal (and less expensive) wakeup-button is perfectly suitable.

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
And then the Lens !!! Which one to chose ? I really don't know :

Schneider Apo-Digitar 5.6/35 mm XL
Rodenstock Apo-Sironar digital HR 4.0/35 mm
It would be highly impractical to shoot either lens wide open since you can't focus through the lens. You could get some very interesting shots shooting street photography wide open with these lenses (they have a very interesting rendering wide open) but your hit/miss rate would be abysmal. Also the limited max shutter speed of the leaf shutter may often prohibit shooting wide open in daylite without a ND filter especially on the f/4.0 (sunny 16 = f/4.0 1/800th ISO50).

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________
Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One, Canon, Apple, Profoto, Eizo & More
National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
Newsletter: Read Latest or Sign Up
 

PeterA

Well-known member
Re 28/35mm shooting:

Shoot @ F8-11 and your hit rate becomes very high.
Even 'wide open' @ 5.6 for street shooting - you have a very wide latitude of acceptable focus. If you are looking at shooting between say 3 meters and infinity - you would have to be totally blind and incompetent to muck the shot up as far as focusing goes.
Comparing a Cambo to an Alpa is like comparing a VW to a Porsche and kidding yourself that they both handle the same.
Also think about what you are going to be composing/framing with a wide like the 35mmSchneider or 28 mm Rodenstock. You are shooting wide - not for infinity in street use.This narroewws your DOF range by quite a lot. Your OOF rendition with these lenses will be beautiful - your in focus rendition will give you a big fat area to play with.


The biggest real world problem with using on street hand held is colour caste issues - which wont be corrected by C1 as they dont map the Schneider or Rodenstock lenses. You get this issue with any Schneider/Rodenstock on any back btw. If you are converting to B&W it is an non issue. If you are shooting in an area with similar light - a calibration shot for that light and lens combo - will see the colour caste issue easilly fixed in post work.

A lot of nitty gritty user based experience is worth a thousand second hand heard it on the internet comments eg good luck tryign hypoerfocal methodology with anything wider than a 35mm - you will need it!
 

steflaurent974

Active member
I'll think of all these useful advices. In fact I'm considering a wider than 35mm , maybe a 28 or 24 ; wich will bring the color cast problem as you mentionned it.

By the way the difference between TC and WA is just a matter of hangrip, am I right ? Is the WA worth for handheld shooting comparing to the TC ?
I'v read in another thread someone switched from TC to WA, so I'm thinking of it...

Stephane.
 

PeterA

Well-known member
I switched from TC to WA because ( for me) the WA was easier to use hand held.The grips were larger and balance was easier - also I can press the actual lens shutter with my index finger. no mirror box - far far less vibration potential. Practical hand held shooting with a 35 or 24 at 1/15th or even lower according to situation.



Alpa 12WA 35XL handheld 1/30th @F11 Hasselblad H3D11-39
 
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