New CAMBO TS/SWING

[Clawery]

Cambo will be releasing a new Tilt/ Swing adapter soon and I wanted to get some initial images of the prototype out for everyone to see. Pricing as well as date of availability will be following soon.

Attached are some images of the new Tilt/Swing Lensboard for Cambo Wide DS / RS / Compact.

The part is not yet anodised, so it looks a bit odd, so don’t mind about that.

The upper knob drives the Tilt (over 5 degrees forward and backwards both)
The sideplaced knob drives the Swing (over 5 degrees leftward and rightwards both)

A unique feature is the ability to use both movements simulteanously in any combination,
wihout need to rotate or remount an adapter.
The pivoting axles are both really close to lens, thus avoiding the image to drift out of the center when tilting, compared to some other systems.
Also, in comparison with the Hasselblad HTS system, our solution does NOT add any optical elements, degrading the image, and it does not effect the actual focal length…

The mechanism has a certain thickness, so that it allows the 47XL Digitar to be operated.
It will also host the Schneider 58,60,72,80,90,100,120 and 150.
But also available for Rodenstock 28HR,35HR,40HR,45,55,70HR,90HR.

Each of these lenspanels will be an optional Tilt-Swing version, apart from the original non TS version.

Technically it is way more precise to incorporate the mechanism as one unit with the lens, which also allows for optimised alignment.
Also this construction allows for the minimal thickness to allow for relatively shorter focal lengths.

Cambo will also offer to retrofit existing lenspanels into T/S version.



Chris Lawery(e-mail Me)
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[Don Libby]

Oh happy day!

 

[kdphotography]

This is very nice addition.

 

[Jeff Turner]

This news just ROCKS!! :clap::clap::clap::clap:

Now I want a Cambo RS-1000!!!

 

[Bob]

and when (err and how much?)
-bob

 

[Jack]

A W E S O M E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[smei_ch]

Does that mean I will have to remount every lens where I want to have T/S?

 

[etrigan63]

Very nice! This mounts on a Compact as well? I may have to see about this!

 

[Don Libby]

This should fit the WDS, WRS and Compact. Sweet!

 

[etrigan63]

That would certainly give the Cambo Compact a tactical advantage over the Alpa TC. BTW, I'm not sure if I told you, but I created a Cambo Digital group on flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/cambodigital

I would love it if you guys came over and shared some images. There wasn't any Cambo love on flickr so I figured I'd take the initiative and start one up.

Chris,

do you have any shots of the prototype mounted on the Compact body?

 

[Guy Mancuso]

May have to get one of these now.

 

[Jack]

It appears we need one unit for each lens we want tilts on though?

 

[Don Libby]

That's the way it looks to me.

Retrofitting the lensboard rather than adding an adapter makes sense in a way - keep the lens the same distance from the sensor so focus and IQ isn't affected.

But who knows? They might surprise us still with something else...

Don

Okay gotta have that first cup of coffee:sleep006:

 

[Bob]

Looks like it might be time for a ground glass
-bob

 

[Jack]

Yep, this would be sweet on a 47 for sure, and maybe even a 35 and 72, but not sure I'd really need/want it on anything else. And a GG does become mandatory along with the attendant swapping it out with the back, which is a hassle -- unless of course one developed a "Zen" for it, which admittedly I did for my most used lenses back in my view camera days...

 

[Don Libby]

Looks like it might be time for a ground glass
-bob

Using the groundglass was a little easier than expected but can be made easier.

Here's the steps that I found myself doing.

1. Remove back
2. Place cover over sensor
3. Remove adapter plate
4. Mount groundglass and begin to work
5. Remove groundglass
6. Remount adapter plate
7. Remove back sensor cover
8. Remount back and begin to work

There's 8 movements here and if you're working outside like I do you need large pockets to hold the back and ground glass.

While I liked working with the groundglass I can see where it could be simplified by being to remove the back and adapter plate as a whole and place a protective cover over the plate. This reduces the steps necessary and eliminates the amount of time the rear lens element is exposed. Just makes for a smother operation.

Dave & Chris are going to get tired hearing me talk of this however I think it's the biggest shortcoming in using the groundglass; other than that I like it a lot.

Just my 2¢

Don

 

[Jack]

Don,

That type of gear gymnastics is why a sliding back combined with solid and reliable tilt, swing and shift movements need to be designed into a single body --- and why I have not hopped aboard the tech camera bus yet...

Maybe Sinar has done this right, or maybe Arca, but the cluge approach of adding parts to make this happen doesn't seem to be working. The Cambo TS mount looks solid enough, but the lack of sliding back option is killing that system for me precisely because of the gyrations you describe above. In the end, I am wondering if it wouldn't simply be easier to back to a regular view camera?

Right now I am using pano-stiching and focus-stacking software with my basic MF SLR to achieve these goals, and frankly think I'm a bit ahead of the game by doing so -- I certainly am ahead in the money department and the images while not perfect, don't suck technically. Yes, the tech lenses are better than any of the current manufacturer lenses, and yes they have wider options, but at the end of the day, the effort required to get a perfectly captured image to the sensor seems excessive for the net results.

Am I missing something?

 

[Bob]

How about this idea?
I looked at my adapter plate and the closest to back lens I own (35 Digitar XL)
It looks like there is plenty of clearance to mount some of that self-adhesive magnetic weatherstrip on the lens-side of the adapter plate. I guess it could be close to a dust-tight seal if you are careful about mitering the magnetic strip and framing the opening with minimum gaps. Then a small sheet of crs cut to size and maybe edged with some black tape would do the trick. You might even consider having it painted or plated for rust prevention. Actually, any magnetic alloy would do.
It might work as a home-made solution.
-bob

 

[thomas]

Cambo will be releasing a new Tilt/ Swing adapter soon

Thanks for the info - good to know!
Do you happen to know if the zero settings for tilt and swing are geared/locked?

Using the groundglass was a little easier than expected but can be made easier.

I pack the camera in my case without the back mounted. When shooting mostly I mount the groundglass and the view finder - http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Item6842.html - with the respective mask. I make a rough compostion with the view finder (even before I set up the tripod and camera), then use the groundglass to fine adjust and especially to see the accurate center point of the image (which is NOT possible with the view finder). Then I mount the back and do the rest with the view finder where you get a good idea of the crop and the shifts as the indicators on the finder masks are relatively close to what you shoot (when you know the center point of the capture).

 

[thomas]

Yes, the tech lenses are better than any of the current manufacturer lenses, and yes they have wider options, but at the end of the day, the effort required to get a perfectly captured image to the sensor seems excessive for the net results.

Jack... this is true to some extend. But once you get used to work with a certain setup you are getting faster and it does NOT require more efforts to get good results.
Firstly with wide angles you mostly shoot at infinity and if the lens is adjusted well you always get terrific results.
Secondly if you once "studied" your lens you get a feeling how to focus if it's not at infinity. I use a laser distometer and match accurate focus even at closer distances. If totally accurate focus is required tethered shooting is the most safe way to go certainly (and if possible I do) but if not you can do some kind of manual focus bracketing as well. When stitching, sure, then you have to do the entire series again and again for every focus setting.
Agreed - all the many steps sound complicated and annoying (and they are in fact) but if you just do it, just work with the gear you own (either way which one), you get used to it and it is working and you get very good results.