The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Capture One 7 with D800E anyone?

tashley

Subscriber Member
Just tooling around with the newly downloaded C1-7 and some D800E files that I already know quite well in LR4 and so far getting better results with LR - BUT - that's because I have processed thousands of D800 and E files in LR. I'm just wondering if anyone has any provisional early settings that they feel get the best out of the files in the new version of C1? It seems, for example, to apply less sharpening and more NR than I remember from C16 but to be honest I never used C1 a lot for my D800 shots so I'm no expert...
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
160,.6,.1 is a good start at sharpening . Base ISO I dropped luminance to 35 as my default.

Clarity depends on image. New clarity punch is interesting as it does add mid level contrast and saturation. Very nice on landscape images at about plus 8-12. Does give it some punch use accordingly. This is my starting point but play around as you may like something slightly different in these settings.

Also watch contrast as I have been known to drop it 4-5 points and than add 3 points of black.

That's been my sauce don't sell it. ROTFLMAO
 
I've never own a C1 licence, always used it on try mode. I tried to learn it but find it a hard on the workflow.
I downloaded C17 and tried some interior shots that I had difficulty finding the right color in ACR and got it right on. The tonality and color separation is amazing.
I tried some exterior and they were wonderful as well.
I didn't have luck though with still live objects, I shoot golden color watches, that have variety in golden tones, rose gold and others and couldn't get it right.
DO you guys know is there is a profile that would help get this right?
I'm really wish I could solve this and finally get the license.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
First off, C1 is a very versatile processor. Second, know it is developed by PhaseOne and they of course tune the heck out of it for THEIR backs and offer several base profiles for their backs. That said, they also tune it beautifully for most other cameras, but it's tough for a relatively small company to keep up with all new DLSR's as they are released, so often it takes a few months before a new camera gets optimized.

That said, let me get back to my comment about C1 being versatile: It's takes a bit of time but is pretty straightforward to build your own dedicated capture profile by using the Advanced Color Editor. Once tuned, you simply "save as profile," and it will be available in your camera profile dropdown for future use.

I think Doug has the procedure outlined somewhere, so I'll let him elaborate/link/post on the specifics. The basics are you shoot a color checker under the type(s) of lighting you normally shoot under, then use CE to tune each patch to it's true value. (Start with the primaries, then move to the secondaries -- you need a few back and forth's to get them all zeroed. Usually these are enough for product, though I typically include the gray gradients as well to eliminate subtle casts. For people, you will want to tune the skintone patches as well.) You then save this as a profile with appropriate name, like "D800E Tungsten" for example.
 
Well this is good news for me Jack, if Doug have the answer I would be grateful to get on it.

I use Color Checker card on all my shoots, even exteriors. I use the Nikon D800 now.

On ACR I have wondered many different profiles trying to get exteriors and interiors right, but non really accurate. Mostly interior of stores with special visuals that need precise color for the brand, is where the problem shows more.

Yesterday experimenting with one file on C17 i was on top of those color right on. But, as you said, need to profile the still live ones.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
On ACR I have wondered many different profiles trying to get exteriors and interiors right, but non really accurate.
That's because in ACR/LR they are NOT profiles, but rather memorized sets of color channel adjustments.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
On any certain color you can in color editor and make exact changes to hue, saturation and such. So you can build a style from that and apply to a image or a whole batch of them
 

Steen

Senior Subscriber Member

160,.6,.1 is a good start at sharpening (...)

Guy, did you seriously mean to type .1 for the Threshold (I assume it means 0.1 right) ?

I'm asking because my Capture One Pro starts up with 1.0 as default Threshold, so I just wondered if your notation might be a typo ?
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
I want to chime in a little here. I shoot a D800, not E, but what I've found may be helpful...

For whatever reason I've discovered that the new C1-7 debayering algorithm seems to like a 0.5 radius. I've almost never found a situation previously with any camera where 0.5 worked better than 0.4 or 0.6 in C1 or LR/ACR (there's a lengthy explanation for the technical logic behind this that I won't go into here). Anyway, in V6, my base sharpening for the D800 was 240, 0.8, 1 with +10 clarity. In 7 my new base is 180, 0.5, 1 with +4 clarity (neutral) -- and I'm getting superior results with it over anything I could achieve in 6.

What is most puzzling to me is that in working with Guy, it seems the D800E base is not significantly different other than slight reductions in the sharpening amount and the clarity settings. The initial conclusion I draw from this is the new debayering algorithm logic is somehow very effective at defining edges regardless of subtlety.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yes the big difference in version 6 was the clarity slider. I would go negative in version 6 like Jack said to about 8 points . Version 7 I seem to not need any but if I want to give it some punch than maybe 6 or so on the plus side. My guess is clarity is much better in 7 or maybe better said more accurate.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yes the big difference in version 6 was the clarity slider. I would go negative in version 6 like Jack said to about 8 points . Version 7 I seem to not need any but if I want to give it some punch than maybe 6 or so on the plus side. My guess is clarity is much better in 7 or maybe better said more accurate.
Btw my guess on that is the D800e was actually profiled in version 7 and not use the D800 profile in 6.
 
S

stargazer27

Guest
New to the forum and first post (please be kind) :)

Hi, I currently use apple aperture v 3. I have recently bought a Nikon D800E, and have downloaded various raw convertors to see which gives the best default conversion and which is the easiest to use (Nikon Capture NX2, DXO, Photo Ninja, capture one pro 6). I have also just downloaded capture one pro 7 as this is marketed as having a new raw convertor superior to v6.

Unfortunately the default conversion of v 7 is actually worse than with v 6.

I am using the same (14 bit lossless compressed NEF raws) with each program with (obviously) differing results with each. Depending on the results of my trial decides as to which convertor / software program to go for.

Any thoughts as why v 7 is giving poorer results than v 6?

Thanks in anticipation,

Best wishes,

Peter Wilson.
 

Jérôme.E

Member
What surprised me with C17 is ACTUALLY far better crashes free than C16, at least on my Mac SL 10.6.8.
I truly preferred C1 "rendering" than LR even if I use LR when i need to process faster but with this new version i'll probably switch definitively.

Guy and Jack's sharpening is IHMO a good starting point, mine is 180 0,6 1 and +10 clarity. Don't like that much structure rendition but i just try with portrait, should be better with architecture.
So nice to have new layer adjustments with auto masking and gradient tool, now i wait for the opacity slider...that was C1 achilles' heel.

About noise 50-50 seems to much and i don't understand this default setting with base iso. I put it 25-30 but didn't see that much difference with 10-10 for example, in fact i don't know what seems to be the best at base iso?

@Jack If you get a detailed procedure about CE profile process I'm very interesting in ;-)
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I did drop my luminance down to 35 on low ISO shots and I agree does seem high for some reason. Maybe the engineers can explain this one to me better so I understand there reasoning.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
New to the forum and first post (please be kind) :)

Hi, I currently use apple aperture v 3. I have recently bought a Nikon D800E, and have downloaded various raw convertors to see which gives the best default conversion and which is the easiest to use (Nikon Capture NX2, DXO, Photo Ninja, capture one pro 6). I have also just downloaded capture one pro 7 as this is marketed as having a new raw convertor superior to v6.

Unfortunately the default conversion of v 7 is actually worse than with v 6.

I am using the same (14 bit lossless compressed NEF raws) with each program with (obviously) differing results with each. Depending on the results of my trial decides as to which convertor / software program to go for.

Any thoughts as why v 7 is giving poorer results than v 6?

Thanks in anticipation,

Best wishes,

Peter Wilson.

Hard to say not looking at your machine but do check all your color setting in C1 and in PS and make sure everything is the same like Adobe 1998.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
I did not upgrade from 6 to 7 but did a new install but settings could have changed on the upgrade process.
 
Top