Hacker
New member
No stuff like lock-tite or its equivalent. Really easy actually.
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New Life :Leica R lens on Nikon D3
- Thread starter glenerrolrd
- Start date
Hacker
New member
Of course.... :ROTFL:And Canon
Stuart:
If the right sized screwdriver (more important than many people think) and firm pressure won't work, there is a liquid grip-aid that can be used on the screwdriver tip. If that doesn't work (iffy), there are readily-sold stripped-head screw removers (they bite into the screw head) that can be used. The latter should work. Sold at any hardware store.
Worst case, a machine shop (or you) can use a small left-hand twist drill bit - that WILL work. I removed some doozies with them. Use the drill in reverse at very slow speed in the center of the screw head and with firm pressure until it grabs. The bit bites into the screw head, grabs it and starts the unscrewing process (as drill is going in reverse) . If you have a friend hold lens, you might even be able to do it with the bit mounted in a cordless drill and you twisting the chuck by hand - maybe. It just needs to bite in enough to get a grip on the head.
Once starts to come out, stop and unscrew with fingers or needle nose pliers if need be. Sold at some better tool stores - worst case a machine tools supply shop.
Phillips head (vs Robertson, hex, torx., etc) machine screws are the bane of mechanics globally. Wrong-size screwdriver used with a bit of carelessness/and or not enough pressure and it cams-out and strips the head.
If the right sized screwdriver (more important than many people think) and firm pressure won't work, there is a liquid grip-aid that can be used on the screwdriver tip. If that doesn't work (iffy), there are readily-sold stripped-head screw removers (they bite into the screw head) that can be used. The latter should work. Sold at any hardware store.
Worst case, a machine shop (or you) can use a small left-hand twist drill bit - that WILL work. I removed some doozies with them. Use the drill in reverse at very slow speed in the center of the screw head and with firm pressure until it grabs. The bit bites into the screw head, grabs it and starts the unscrewing process (as drill is going in reverse) . If you have a friend hold lens, you might even be able to do it with the bit mounted in a cordless drill and you twisting the chuck by hand - maybe. It just needs to bite in enough to get a grip on the head.
Once starts to come out, stop and unscrew with fingers or needle nose pliers if need be. Sold at some better tool stores - worst case a machine tools supply shop.
Phillips head (vs Robertson, hex, torx., etc) machine screws are the bane of mechanics globally. Wrong-size screwdriver used with a bit of carelessness/and or not enough pressure and it cams-out and strips the head.
Last edited:
This sounds potentially dangerous to me. A slip could cause an injury.
-bob
Stuart Richardson
Active member
Thanks for the advice Rob -- I hope it does not come to that! I will see if I can get it out. If not, I will take it to the local leica repair guy and just have him do it. It's too expensive of a lens for me to muck about with.
Hacker -- What is that you have there?
Hacker -- What is that you have there?
Hacker
New member
I was at the dealer to collect my Fujinon L 5cm f/2.8 (sent for CLA) and took the shot with the 100mm APO. I think it was a vintage microscope. I can check again when I'm in again.
Stuart Richardson
Active member
Great shots Hacker! It's nice to see the lens maintains its look on the new body...
Hacker
New member
glenerrolrd
Workshop Member
Looks like my desk! Couple of questions.Really weird, Leica on Nikon and Nikon on Leica!
(1) How do you like the LensAlign for testing the M and R lenses (manual focus)?
(2)Do you find the D700 (focus point confirmation) to be accurate and does it agree with what you see on the screen? I remember from using alternative lenses on the canon bodies...that the screen was often not accurate without calibration. The focus confirmation works off the sensor and may be different than the screen . While calibration is less likely an issue, the requirements to focus at 1.4 in low light are beyond the AF system. So the normal method of using the focus confirmation to get close or to check your manual focus may not work well.
(3) It doesn t look like you can use the Nikon focus adjustments to correct the focus confirmation (AF lens only).
These are nits but you have to have uber calibration to use a 1.4 at close range.
glenerrolrd
Workshop Member
I haven t tested this but there was a problem on the Canon bodies with accurate exposure metering. The Canon representative explained this on one of the forums and it appears that the body uses the aperture information to adjust the exposure metering. On an alternative lens it does not have the aperture information and each F stop was off by a different amount. The solution was to make a chart of exposure adjustments and then use the exposure adjustment necessary for your chosen aperture. Sounds worse than it is....as I tried to shoot wide open or at F5.6 and I knew the amount to adjust. Generally we are talking about 1/3 to 1/2 stop errors...which IMHO isn t critical for many uses and I don t meter that accurately anyway. I know for some applications you need to do better.
