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Nikon Z6 Photos and Discussions

ptomsu

Workshop Member
Possibly true... if so, then the more reason to post a lot!

It only takes a couple of folks to get things rolling especially if enthusiasm is part of each post with helpful tips along the way ... I would certainly post almost daily if i had one.;) I really would like to see the Nikon forum thrive!:)

Spring is a great time to get started!
Believe me - if I had one I would post a lot, but as I am without any FF mirrorless for the moment .....

Good luck with getting all this a lot more active - would definitely be also a big motivation for me to get into any new FF missorless Nikon in the future :thumbs:
 

jdphoto

Well-known member
It occurs to me that the Z6 hits the sweet spot for all-rounder use!:):):)

This forum deserves a LOT more postings of Z6 images for all to enjoy.

Along that line of thought, where is the "Fun with Z7 Images" thread? This was started months ago but has fallen into a dearth of activity.

https://www.getdpi.com/forum/nikon/64812-fun-nikon-z.html

Both deserve a dedicated thread and this forum needs that interaction of sharing, so come on Z6 and Z7 enthusiasts! Show us whatcha got!!!!:)

Just sayin'....;)
Perhaps most just post in the "fun with Nikon" thread which seems appropriate too.
 

robdeszan

Member
Hello All, how's the WB / skin tones working for you on the Z6 series. I am struggling a bit in getting colours right out of the camera. Do you shoot sRGB or Adobe? I am using PS 6 and find it to work best overall; struggling with P1's C1 (11 release). I never found the cameras I used to be as f'unky' (d700 d810 df) and requiring as much post-processing. I almost want to leave it in daylight mode at all times.

I also find the jpgs to be heavily processed and soft in appearance, just avoid using them altogether. Similarly, raw files require noise settings to be toned down a lot and more sharpening applied to get crispiness out of those files. Once done, they have very analogue looking highlight transitions (similar to chrome's) but definitely require a serious tweak.
 

Darin Marcus

Well-known member
Hello All, how's the WB / skin tones working for you on the Z6 series. I am struggling a bit in getting colours right out of the camera. Do you shoot sRGB or Adobe? I am using PS 6 and find it to work best overall; struggling with P1's C1 (11 release). I never found the cameras I used to be as f'unky' (d700 d810 df) and requiring as much post-processing. I almost want to leave it in daylight mode at all times.

I also find the jpgs to be heavily processed and soft in appearance, just avoid using them altogether. Similarly, raw files require noise settings to be toned down a lot and more sharpening applied to get crispiness out of those files. Once done, they have very analogue looking highlight transitions (similar to chrome's) but definitely require a serious tweak.
We've touched a bit on the topic of portraits earlier in this thread.

I don't photograph people that much, and when I do it is mostly outdoors, in good light. I found that the Natural Light AWB coupled with the Portrait Picture Control take me almost where I want to be in terms of skin tones for the kind of portraits I take. Here is an example with the Z6: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/nikon/66012-nikkor-z-24-70mm-f-2-8-s-photos-discussions.html#post787248. And here is an example with the D810, for which I had to do a bit more PP, mostly because the D810 lacks the Natural Light AWB: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/artful-images-to-share-including-nsfw/54630-street-images-any-camera-2.html#post787158. I am not sure how relevant are these examples to the kind of portraits you photograph, though....

I shoot exclusively NEFs, and convert them using Capture NX-D, with finishing touches (if needed) and resizing in Lightroom 6. I use Natural Light AWB outdoors, and Auto WB A0 indoors with artificial light. With artificial light I almost always have to adjust the WB in PP, but not any more than with my other Nikons. Natural Light AWB + Neutral Picture Control give me pretty accurate colors outdoors.

I turn off noise reduction for outdoor shooting and use it minimally indoors. Again, as expected for a 24MP sensor (in between the D810 and the Df). The sharpness seems fine as well - are you experiencing shutter shock perhaps?

Can you post an example that bothers you, together with the camera settings (aperture, shutter speed, ISO, VR on/off, EFCS on/off, etc.)?
 

robdeszan

Member
Thanks Marcus,

Yes I remember seeing the comments about VR affecting sharpness at faster shutter speeds. I do tend to turn it off unless I shoot in low light (it does make a difference in sharpness; it degrades if it is constantly on); similarly, the electronic shutter generally remains on, unless I am shooting in bright sun. I might experiment with setting the minimum shutter speed to "faster" as the camera appears to go for the focal length equivalent (50mm = 1/50s - ish) I generally found that doubling the time yields better results with the d810, not so much with Df. I guess I could go mid way.

I will try the A natural setting, thanks; so far I've been shooting predominantly using A1 keep overall atmosphere as I found the out of the box rendering slightly cold. Playing with the settings I noticed a plethora of contrast/brightness/sharpening etc. setting tweaks in each profile. Do these apply to Jpgs only or carry over to RAW rendering as well?

I almost find the Z6 files to be very similar in character to a scanned chrome, where you need to apply sharpening anyway. I used to use a Flextight film scanner extensively and their sharpness setting was ridiculously high and the actual 0 setting was at -120 so not a sharpness freak by any means. It definitely helped realising the files Z6 allow for a lot of processing sharpness-wise without losing that (like I said before) analogue character about them (light / dark transitions).

Phaseone's C1 (v11) does not give me alternative default WB settings but it does not include Nikon Z6 in the camera list either, perhaps that's the reason so I am stuck with PS 6 even though the workflow is better with C1.

We've touched a bit on the topic of portraits earlier in this thread.

I don't photograph people that much, and when I do it is mostly outdoors, in good light. I found that the Natural Light AWB coupled with the Portrait Picture Control take me almost where I want to be in terms of skin tones for the kind of portraits I take. Here is an example with the Z6: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/nikon/66012-nikkor-z-24-70mm-f-2-8-s-photos-discussions.html#post787248. And here is an example with the D810, for which I had to do a bit more PP, mostly because the D810 lacks the Natural Light AWB: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/artful-images-to-share-including-nsfw/54630-street-images-any-camera-2.html#post787158. I am not sure how relevant are these examples to the kind of portraits you photograph, though....

I shoot exclusively NEFs, and convert them using Capture NX-D, with finishing touches (if needed) and resizing in Lightroom 6. I use Natural Light AWB outdoors, and Auto WB A0 indoors with artificial light. With artificial light I almost always have to adjust the WB in PP, but not any more than with my other Nikons. Natural Light AWB + Neutral Picture Control give me pretty accurate colors outdoors.

I turn off noise reduction for outdoor shooting and use it minimally indoors. Again, as expected for a 24MP sensor (in between the D810 and the Df). The sharpness seems fine as well - are you experiencing shutter shock perhaps?

Can you post an example that bothers you, together with the camera settings (aperture, shutter speed, ISO, VR on/off, EFCS on/off, etc.)?
 
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Darin Marcus

Well-known member
Thanks Marcus,

I will try the A natural setting, thanks; so far I've been shooting predominantly using A1 keep overall atmosphere as I found the out of the box rendering slightly cold. Playing with the settings I noticed a plethora of contrast/brightness/sharpening etc. setting tweaks in each profile. Do these apply to Jpgs only or carry over to RAW rendering as well?
Both A0 and the Natural Light AWB are a bit colder than the usual Nikon AWB (up to D810 in my case). I got used to them since I started shooting with the Z6, and actually now prefer the Natural Light AWB rendering for outdoor photos.

Yeah, each Picture Control can be customized in terms of sharpness/contrast/brightness/saturation, etc. I dialed +1 on saturation for the Neutral Picture Control I am using. These apply to jpegs, as well as to the initial rendering of the NEFs processed in Capture NX-D and View NX-i. In Capture NX-D for example, you can change them while processing your NEFs just as you would change them in the camera. I don't know about other NEF processing software.
 

rayyan

Well-known member
In my explorations for a ‘ want ‘ camera, as a gift to myself...I have been handling and reading about basically 2 systems.

Nikon Z
Sony

I came across this video. I am not an expert on video; however, I was taken aback by some of what he says.

Is he correct, partially correct, totally off base?

I don’t know. But I would be disappointed ( very ) if what he mentions is fairly
accurate.

Here
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
In my explorations for a ‘ want ‘ camera, as a gift to myself...I have been handling and reading about basically 2 systems.

Nikon Z
Sony

I came across this video. I am not an expert on video; however, I was taken aback by some of what he says.

Is he correct, partially correct, totally off base?

I don’t know. But I would be disappointed ( very ) if what he mentions is fairly
accurate.

Here
It's videos like this that make me a very happy Panasonic user :ROTFL:
 

pegelli

Well-known member
There's only one thing to learn, Rayyan: Stick with what you have. Buy a new lens if you must.
Agree, and if you really "want" a FF mirrorless go to a shop, handle them all. Maybe rent the ones you like best for a week or so and then determine which one you want. All the opinions you get here about one being better vs. another are personal bias. Nothing wrong with that but it might not align with your preference. In the end most of these cameras are clones with a different cloak, just pick the cloak you like best.
 

ptomsu

Workshop Member
There's only one thing to learn, Rayyan: Stick with what you have. Buy a new lens if you must.

Yes, I know. I'm a sinner too :loco: :ROTFL:
I only can add that after a lengthy discussion with a good photography friend I just now made the decision to stay with m43 and currently not go FF with whatever system.

I cannot talk about details of what we discussed but I am convinced that the photography mirrorless world (m43, APSC, FF and MFD) will significantly change over the next 10 - 20 months and with what I currently have and shoot I can be pretty happy.

Stay tuned ...........
 
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