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YesIs anybody using the newest Tamron 017 90mm macro successfully on the Nikon Z+FTZ? I've heard they won't AF properly, which seems a real bummer -- I once had an older version of the Tamron 90 macro and really liked it. What about the Sigma 105 OS macro?
Bad conscience here: should have put it on at once: yes there are hefty AF-problems, specially in low light and non-contrast-subjects :facesmack:, but haven't spend more than a few minutes..sorry..I guess I used at MF,Well, went ahead and took the chance -- will let you know after it gets here. I am not overly optimistic given reports from several folks it doesn't work. But for a few it seems to, so my fingers are crossed LOL
Oh frick, it figures. I so wanted it to work normally...Bad conscience here: should have put it on at once: yes there are hefty AF-problems, specially in low light and non-contrast-subjects :facesmack:, but haven't spend more than a few minutes..sorry..I guess I used at MF,
but I'm still keeping it for digitizing
Thorkil,Bad conscience here: should have put it on at once: yes there are hefty AF-problems, specially in low light and non-contrast-subjects :facesmack:, but haven't spend more than a few minutes..sorry..I guess I used at MF,
but I'm still keeping it for digitizing.
But...rescue, if you are patient:
Update is planned to be released:
https://www.tamron.com/faq/products/nikon_z.html
I will be patient, while its stellar
Good to hear, Jack, that you just got these "minor" problems, and it also lock-up in a sort of strange small AF-hunting-loop, just as an extra bonus point :ROTFL:, so one has to restart the camera (tried in dimm-bulb-light)(in these condition its only MF) - but else, I was absolutely taken too by it's totally razorsharp ability, the Zeiss 100 macro was almost unsharp compared - but colors one has to arrange to taste, where Zeiss was spot on - or bring the whiball pocket-card, in the pocket.Thorkil,
You can relax your bad conscience
The lens just arrived, an exc+ condition used specimen. On my Z7 body with my FTZ adapter, it does AF. Not superbly mind you, slow and a little hunt-ish, kind of like 2004 era AF, and with a bit of bizarre buzzing for added effect... I'm also not yet 100% certain the VR is working, and it doesn't really want to get to f2.8 and limits out based on subject distance -- but other than all that, it's great! :ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:
Seriously, the results appear not just good, but flat out stunning optically, and this is wide open and from corner to corner! So just like you, for the meantime I will gladly manage with its warts and hope a FW update comes along soon to fix the erratic and noisy AF :thumbs:
Yes, I did have that also happen a couple times on my walk today. I will process and post a few images tomorrow -- but so far and just going by LCD review, I am very happy with the rendering!and it also lock-up in a sort of strange small AF-hunting-loop, just as an extra bonus point :ROTFL:,
SUPER (and nice pictures)(yes, it does it more colorful, but I guess simple desaturation in C1 perhaps might be sufficient) :thumbs:Did I mention this lens is SHARP?
I'm relatively new to focus stacking but I haven't found a method yet to always keep the size of the subject equal and avoid "shading" of certain areas in deeper/more complicated structures. If you move the camera on a macro rail (and don't change the focus on the lens) the subject size and perspective changes, if you change focus on the lens it changes the size of the subject (and sometimes also the perspective).However as it has internal focusing there is quite a bit of focus breathing, i.e. it changes FL as focus changes, resulting in change of size of the subject.
This is for a sure a discussion worthy of its own thread. I've always found it very difficult to focus stack macro for this very reason, regardless of lens used -- at least back in the early days where I actually experimented with Helicon Focus... Most primes have to extend optically to focus closer -- this actually also increases the focal length of the lens and corresponding image magnification. I had a rail and attempted to use it a few times, and recall getting it to work once or twice, but seem to remember inconsistent results. IIRC, my best results were from a tele zoom with a diopter, since most zooms are internal focus and as such don't change focal as they focus closer -- or more accurately, they actually reduce focal length to focus closer lol. Regardless, if you have one where the the internal focal length reduction matches the focus extension, then image magnification remains reasonably constant as you shift focus.I'm relatively new to focus stacking but I haven't found a method yet to always keep the size of the subject equal and avoid "shading" of certain areas in deeper/more complicated structures. If you move the camera on a macro rail (and don't change the focus on the lens) the subject size and perspective changes, if you change focus on the lens it changes the size of the subject (and sometimes also the perspective).
Theoretically there must be a way to move the camera and the focus of the lens together to achieve a pure constant size but as soon as you move the camera the perspective changes, so that problem doesn't go away.
I don't know if there is a method to avoid changing size and perspective at the same time, maybe with a tech cam and/or special lens but not with a "simple" full frame camera.
My experience is that using a long lens and macro rail gives the least problems in Helicon focus (the program I use) but since my camera has no automated focus stacking it might be that those results aren't looking as good in my case because I find that making reliable small steps of manual focus on the lens is much harder to do than reliably move a macro rail in small constant steps.
Sorry for this long story, don't want to derail this thread so if you (or others) want to discuss further or have any golden tips maybe we need to start a new thread discussing different focus stacking methods and the best way to capture the images.
Absolutely - I've only tried it a few times - and it is tricky.This is for a sure a discussion worthy of its own thread. I've always found it very difficult to focus stack macro for this very reason, regardless of lens used -- at least back in the early days where I actually experimented with Helicon Focus... Most primes have to extend optically to focus closer -- this actually also increases the focal length of the lens and corresponding image magnification. I had a rail and attempted to use it a few times, and recall getting it to work once or twice, but seem to remember inconsistent results. IIRC, my best results were from a tele zoom with a diopter, since most zooms are internal focus and as such don't change focal as they focus closer -- or more accurately, they actually reduce focal length to focus closer lol. Regardless, if you have one where the the internal focal length reduction matches the focus extension, then image magnification remains reasonably constant as you shift focus.