The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Sigma DP2 Merrill shots

ustein

Contributing Editor
ISO 200 is max for me. Not sure if the other settings matter if you shoot raw. Get SPP and it is free.
 

kuau

Workshop Member
Thanks Uwe,
Yes I will be shooting raw, I read on DPreview, that actually ISO 200 offers better DR, though I am not sure this is true, and also how you setup SPP
For example.
The relationship between the Contrast settings, shadow,Highlight and fill light.
I have read all kinds of crazy stuff like set shadow -2, HL +2 or maybe I got that mixed up.

Then of course the whole sharpening debate. Sharpness at -1 ???

Keeping all things equal, lets say I am shooting bright sunny day at ISO 100, using basic daylight for exposure F5.6 @ 1/800 sec and use daylight for WB...

Lots of conflicting info out there in regards to SPP

Steven
 

ustein

Contributing Editor
I mostly use ISO200 and DR maybe higher (it is low anyway). Once you have raw files and play with them. I am easy going here. SPP is a mere pre-processor for me.
 

Michiel Schierbeek

Well-known member
Well I decided before I pull the trigger on a DP1m or DPM2,
I rented both from lensrentals.com for this weekend.

So to make sure I get the most out of my "evaluation"
As of today, how should I setup the cameras?
ISO 100, or 200?
Sharpening setting in camera
Noise setting
Picture style

Thanks

Steven
I would say try both ISO's I did mainly use 100 but today i used 400 as well because it was getting darker.

Sharpening in camera; I did mainly zero and -2 (on advice of Quentin)

Did not bother about noise settings yet.

Picture style; neutral

Put the camera on auto power off 30 seconds, it really helps enduring battery life. Also on 2 seconds display after shooting.

Today I had a lot of out of focus pictures. Probably due to the glass windows I was focussing on. I am gonne try multi spot metering tommorow. Anybody having any issues with AF? Or do you use manuel focussing a lot?

Michiel
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
100 ISO. However, I will set 125, 160 or 200 ISO where necessary (make sure you have the updated firmware to allow 1/3 increments in setting ISO).

Neutral colour setting, sunlight WB if outdoors (Auto WB is too cyan for my tastes - basically its just plain wrong!)

Adobe RGB and turn down all NR and sharpening in camera. Shoot with +.3 to +.7 correction (expose for the shadows) using Aperture priority.

In Sigma Photo Pro, My preference from the beginning has been to reduce exposure (see above) and increase x3 fill light a tad where necessary (and it usually is), without overdoing it.

My practice with sharpening has changed. I now often leave on 0 in Sigma Photo Pro, or will reduce by up to -1 depending on the image. Its all personal preference, but the Sigma sharpening algorithms seem best suited to their sensor, so turning it off altogether no longer seems adviseable or necessary.

Dial down Luminance NR by one notch. Turning it off altogether is a mistake if there is noise in the shadows.

Export to a new folder for each shoot, TIFF-16 bit.

Quentin
 

Michiel Schierbeek

Well-known member
I had a lot of failures today.
I must have touched the focus button to MF and forgot about the light and the sound.
Quentin, do you use MF a lot or you leave it on AF/MF?
Could it be that AF has trouble with glass windows?

Michiel



 

scho

Well-known member
Today's short walk at the farmers market (closed) featured the DP1M handheld. Dark & dull, but I just had to get out of the house for some fresh air.:)

Last of the lotus in the market pond.


LARGER

Empty market


LARGER

Stall #40

LARGER
 

kuau

Workshop Member
Thanks for all the tips Quentin.

So incamera, you have sharpening set to?
Everything else makes sense to me.
Lastly, coming out of SPP 16bit tiff, I read there is a bug with the color management so I assume that's why you come out off SPP in Adobe RGB?

Steven


100 ISO. However, I will set 125, 160 or 200 ISO where necessary (make sure you have the updated firmware to allow 1/3 increments in setting ISO).

Neutral colour setting, sunlight WB if outdoors (Auto WB is too cyan for my tastes - basically its just plain wrong!)

Adobe RGB and turn down all NR and sharpening in camera. Shoot with +.3 to +.7 correction (expose for the shadows) using Aperture priority.

In Sigma Photo Pro, My preference from the beginning has been to reduce exposure (see above) and increase x3 fill light a tad where necessary (and it usually is), without overdoing it.

My practice with sharpening has changed. I now often leave on 0 in Sigma Photo Pro, or will reduce by up to -1 depending on the image. Its all personal preference, but the Sigma sharpening algorithms seem best suited to their sensor, so turning it off altogether no longer seems adviseable or necessary.

Dial down Luminance NR by one notch. Turning it off altogether is a mistake if there is noise in the shadows.

Export to a new folder for each shoot, TIFF-16 bit.

Quentin
 

scho

Well-known member
I had a lot of failures today.
I must have touched the focus button to MF and forgot about the light and the sound.
Quentin, do you use MF a lot or you leave it on AF/MF?
Could it be that AF has trouble with glass windows?

Michiel
Very nice images Michiel. I've also un-intentionally hit that MF button occasionally. I have not had the need to use MF yet, but might if doing macro. You are the window expert Michiel, so we are relying on your verdict about AF and windows.:salute:
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
I had a lot of failures today.
I must have touched the focus button to MF and forgot about the light and the sound.
Quentin, do you use MF a lot or you leave it on AF/MF?
Could it be that AF has trouble with glass windows?

Michiel



Michiel

What you got looks good though!

I mainly use autofocus with manual assist occasionally, i.e. leave on AF/MF.
 

antara

New member
Quentin, Carl, Uwe and others who have been working with the DP2M.

Could you please address the purple/green issues mentioned in my post above.
I am strongly attracted to buying this camera, but am concerned about the issues that showed up on the linked image.
thanks,
Antara
 

ustein

Contributing Editor
>I am strongly attracted to buying this camera, but am concerned about the issues that showed up on the linked image.

Would also like to know what others are doing to prevent or fix it.
 

scho

Well-known member
Quentin, Carl, Uwe and others who have been working with the DP2M.

Could you please address the purple/green issues mentioned in my post above.
I am strongly attracted to buying this camera, but am concerned about the issues that showed up on the linked image.
thanks,
Antara
I have not noticed anything like this yet in the shots I've taken so I can't comment on the cause or a fix. There was some paranoia over at DPR about purple/green blotches, but I thought that was primarily a low light/high ISO issue, which is clearly not the case here.
 

ustein

Contributing Editor
>but I thought that was primarily a low light/high ISO issue, which is clearly not the case here.

Sorry it is not.

 

antara

New member
Uwe
If you processed this image differently, would the blotches be avoided?
wondering if its is the raw software???
 

Amin

Active member
>but I thought that was primarily a low light/high ISO issue, which is clearly not the case here.

Sorry it is not.
Uwe, what you posted seems different and more subtle than the photo Antara referenced. Is it possible that the water just looked that way in reality?

Regardless, this seems a relatively minor issue to me. Like Fuji orbs - one of those things where you can choose to either concentrate on what the camera can do or what it can't.
 

scho

Well-known member
Uwe, what you posted seems different and more subtle than the photo Antara referenced. Is it possible that the water just looked that way in reality?

Regardless, this seems a relatively minor issue to me. Like Fuji orbs - one of those things where you can choose to either concentrate on what the camera can do or what it can't.
I thought the same. That type of reflective color variation on the ocean surface is not at all unusual. Here is a shot I took a few years ago with a Canon 5DII:
 
Top