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Sigma DP2 Merrill shots

pophoto

New member
Lol, actually Rich, you have a good portrait there and it looks well controlled! Obviously a detailed camera for sure, but nothing approaching what I saw! Actually we were well covered that day, with an OMD and Nikon D5100, but wanted to see how the DP2M would handle!
 

Michiel Schierbeek

Well-known member
For the time being my color settings in ACR for the DP2m files are Margenta -34 and green -8
It takes care of most of the margenta in he whole image. The corners still would need some more. I used these settings also in the recent harbour picture in which you still can see a little margenta in the left upper corner.

This rather surrealistic MF shot, 2 times through glass, is from today at the fair. Most shots I did with the NEX-7 with a Canon fd 50/4. I will post some later in the NEX-7 thread. Different colors and different sharpness.

Michiel

 

jminor

New member
My DP2 Merrill arrived the other day, took it out for a few quick snaps but nothing worth posting here. I have a couple questions. I don't see a NR setting in camera, is that only done in post ie SPP? I remember the old saying, It's better to keep quiet and have people think you're and idiot, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt :p, but here it goes anyway. When you folks talk about exposing for shadows, are you doing that by adjusting the exposure comp +.3 - +.7 ?

Thanks,
John
 

scho

Well-known member
I used the DP1M today walking in the park, but didn't check my camera settings. Discovered later that somehow my size setting was at "medium", instead of "high". I shot RAW only, but still could not get back to full size processing in SPP. Oh well, here is one shot from the trip, but NO full size version because of my screwup.:facesmack:

 

Sapphie

Member
Hi Carl

Great pics, as always. Where did you focus in that bridge shot and what aperture did you use? I think I may have to 're-learn' some hyper focus techniques but my shots seem to be sharper back to front if I just focus on or near the distance than try to be clever with a third of the way in the scene!

I've had some ruined by camera shake too (hand held).

I am finding that I am regularly adding +.3 or +0.7 EV too (which is counter-intuitive and worried me all the time) but of course this increases the risk of camera shake. Yes, I know, I should just use that tripod ...

A hint that may be obvious to all but after you have AF you can press the button labelled 'focus' to switch it MF and thus keep the same focus point for a series of shots. If you are in MF the camera seems to remember the focus distance even after being switched off and back on again, which is handy if you have it set to auto-off in a short space of time. If you are in AF, after switching off and on it seems to have the AF set near infinity.

Of course if you switch to AF you need to remember that you have done that, LOL!

It is odd, isn't it, that the RAW stores the size of the image selected? BTW the JPG within the RAW is the full size one. It may also have a smaller preview JPG but when within the main SPP window with the thumbnails, the 'File/Convert to JPEG file ...' option merely extracts the full size embedded JPEG - which is identical to the one you get when shooting RAW+JPEG. So no need to do the latter. For a quick look at all images in LR etc, just select all and do the above to get JPEG renderings quickly. Of course, many of the images will need adjustment in SPP but at least you get a quick idea how they are this way.

I have even started going out with my Merrill and X-Pro 1 at the same time (because I fell I ought to be using the Fuji) but the former seems to get used the most ...

Lee
 

scho

Well-known member
Hi Carl

Great pics, as always. Where did you focus in that bridge shot and what aperture did you use? I think I may have to 're-learn' some hyper focus techniques but my shots seem to be sharper back to front if I just focus on or near the distance than try to be clever with a third of the way in the scene!

I've had some ruined by camera shake too (hand held).

I am finding that I am regularly adding +.3 or +0.7 EV too (which is counter-intuitive and worried me all the time) but of course this increases the risk of camera shake. Yes, I know, I should just use that tripod ...

A hint that may be obvious to all but after you have AF you can press the button labelled 'focus' to switch it MF and thus keep the same focus point for a series of shots. If you are in MF the camera seems to remember the focus distance even after being switched off and back on again, which is handy if you have it set to auto-off in a short space of time. If you are in AF, after switching off and on it seems to have the AF set near infinity.

Of course if you switch to AF you need to remember that you have done that, LOL!

It is odd, isn't it, that the RAW stores the size of the image selected? BTW the JPG within the RAW is the full size one. It may also have a smaller preview JPG but when within the main SPP window with the thumbnails, the 'File/Convert to JPEG file ...' option merely extracts the full size embedded JPEG - which is identical to the one you get when shooting RAW+JPEG. So no need to do the latter. For a quick look at all images in LR etc, just select all and do the above to get JPEG renderings quickly. Of course, many of the images will need adjustment in SPP but at least you get a quick idea how they are this way.

I have even started going out with my Merrill and X-Pro 1 at the same time (because I fell I ought to be using the Fuji) but the former seems to get used the most ...

Lee
Thanks Lee, focus was at far end of dock and aperture was f/8. Once you set a smaller image size in the camera menu, I don't think that you can get back to "High" or full size when processing the raw. Selecting Convert to jpg will give you the same size image that was set in the camera, not always full size. I never use the smaller sizes so I don't know how this got set to "medium". Something to watch out for and by the way these reduced size images look horrible at 100%.
 

scho

Well-known member
I re-set my DP1M image size setting and checked again before today's walk and all OK:thumbup: Two shots near the Children's Garden on a clear, blue sky fall day.

Boston Ivy growing on a retaining wall


FULL SIZE

A new children's garden business venture


FULL SIZE
 

peterb

Member
Caught this on my way out to work this morning. It's not much for color but you can see the individual hairs on the late little bugger.

I call it..."Crash Landing"

Enjoy.
 
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peterb

Member
Michiel, another jaw dropping image.

But I have to tell you, this whole thread (and whole DP Merrill series) has been really interesting. In other threads on this site and others around the WEB the shots are subjects are typically general in nature nothing too special. Here folks like Quentin, Carl, Uwe and others try to find the most detailed subjects they can find just to show off the sensor and the remarkable lens that Sigma has fashioned for it. Even Sigma's DP brochure had shots taken in a Mosque rife with detail that would present a serious challenge to even the most capable of FF DSLRs.


For the entire time digital cameras have been around to me most images have seemed to have a haze or veil around them. In fact, there have been manhyt times when I saw a shot posted that I'd almost want to reach for a microfiber cleaning cloth just to wipe the gauziness off. With the DP's (and one or two Bayer based cameras with the right optics) suddenly there IS no veil.

Keep these images coming. (Honestly I can't believe I've become such a detail addict. Maybe there's a support group for people like me?)
 

Rand47

Active member
Three image stitch.



I just printed this 50" wide and you can see very clear details, trash, graffiti on rocks (drat).



Rand
 
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