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Sigma DP2 Merrill shots
- Thread starter Quentin_Bargate
- Start date
Quentin_Bargate
Well-known member
Nice work Uwe and Rich. Subtle textures and colours work well with the DP's.
Quentin_Bargate
Well-known member
Speaking as a Hassy H4D 50 owner, almost an understatement there, Thorkil.A Hasselblad in your pocket
Thorkil
I guess what I am having trouble getting my head round is how to rely on just using the LCD, rarely having shot via one before. Is it better to choose the AF point rather than focus and recompose?
Also, how is the auto matrix metering? Can I rely on it? If not, how do you compensate - is there an on-screen histogram and, if so, can it actually be seen on the LCD?
Lee
Wonderfull shots Uwe and Rich.
It might sound irritating, but I just have a humble wish to all here: Would I be able to persuade you all to state:
handheld/tripod
shutterspeed
aperture
(perhaps Iso too)
...and perhaps a few remarks on pp
??
(no, no..its not novel-writing I'm thinking of)
Well, I know it might be annoying, but it would certainly help to gather experience from you all (apart from the splendid pictures!).
From looking at the review at Photography Blog it seems that handheld should be at least 1/160, and it seems sort of obvious that the foveon sensor doesn't cope in the same nice way with small mikro-shakes like perhaps a M9 will do.
Best Thorkil
It might sound irritating, but I just have a humble wish to all here: Would I be able to persuade you all to state:
handheld/tripod
shutterspeed
aperture
(perhaps Iso too)
...and perhaps a few remarks on pp
??
(no, no..its not novel-writing I'm thinking of)
Well, I know it might be annoying, but it would certainly help to gather experience from you all (apart from the splendid pictures!).
From looking at the review at Photography Blog it seems that handheld should be at least 1/160, and it seems sort of obvious that the foveon sensor doesn't cope in the same nice way with small mikro-shakes like perhaps a M9 will do.
Best Thorkil
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Quentin_Bargate
Well-known member
Just acquired a pano head ( a Nodal Ninja MKII) specifically for use with the DP2M
Well for what it is worth...
My DP2M only arrived yesterday and so far I have only made about 75 exposures. I also have a Nex7 which I find very difficult to handhold below about 1/160th. The DP2 is a different beast, different technique. For some reason I find it easier to keep steady than the Nex. I have shots that are pin sharp handheld, wide open at 1/80th. Mind you I have also some camera shake at much higher speeds. It is a question of concentration and how stable your hands are.
My DP2M only arrived yesterday and so far I have only made about 75 exposures. I also have a Nex7 which I find very difficult to handhold below about 1/160th. The DP2 is a different beast, different technique. For some reason I find it easier to keep steady than the Nex. I have shots that are pin sharp handheld, wide open at 1/80th. Mind you I have also some camera shake at much higher speeds. It is a question of concentration and how stable your hands are.
peterb
Member
Plfower just got mine yesterday, too.
What I noticed IMMEDIATELY (aside from the absolutely solid feel of the body and metal clad lens-wow!) was...due to the camera's unique acentric lens/body configuration (I can't recall any other camera recently with a lens off to the side like this), holding it naturally after picking it up I noticed that my left index finger acts as support under the lens barrel whilst my middle left finger supported the rest of the camera body from the bottom which, with the right hand grabbing the right via the bumps in the front and the sublte-yet-convenient thumb indent in the back made for a surprisingly steadier hold than any other camera I've ever held before.
In physics terms the strikingly different position of the camera's center of mass compared with other cameras as utilized by the geometry and structural bone configuration of our hands is definitely an advantage here for hand-held work.
Just my thoughts.
What I noticed IMMEDIATELY (aside from the absolutely solid feel of the body and metal clad lens-wow!) was...due to the camera's unique acentric lens/body configuration (I can't recall any other camera recently with a lens off to the side like this), holding it naturally after picking it up I noticed that my left index finger acts as support under the lens barrel whilst my middle left finger supported the rest of the camera body from the bottom which, with the right hand grabbing the right via the bumps in the front and the sublte-yet-convenient thumb indent in the back made for a surprisingly steadier hold than any other camera I've ever held before.
In physics terms the strikingly different position of the camera's center of mass compared with other cameras as utilized by the geometry and structural bone configuration of our hands is definitely an advantage here for hand-held work.
Just my thoughts.
Lee & Thorkill......good questions all. It's only my third day out with the DP1M. So far all my shots have been purposely taken in bright daylight, but trying to avoid situations where there is a wide DR. I have shot all the pics so far at ISO100, handheld, f/5.6-6.3 with shutter speeds greater than 1/160. 90% of my shots had +0.7 EC dialed in to lift the shadows. (I have to be careful on this one....whites completely blow out). Matrix metering.
At the distance between subject and camera with the aperture that I have shooting at, I feel comfortable with focus/recompose. The camera does have a very small MFD (maybe 7"??).....so when I am that close, I will choose another focusing point (which is very simple to do.)
There is a dedicated button for histogram, but I have not used it yet. Even in bright sunlight, the LCD is usable.
I have not tried a tripod yet.
The reason for the above is that I wanted to see first the BEST the camera could do under optimal conditions. Thank god the sun has been out
I did not want my initial tries to be confounded by conditions that would color my evaluation of the camera.
I have gotten used to SPP (ver 5.3.2 OSX). Calibrated monitors really pay off. Subtle tweaks in SPP can have a larger effect. I really do not do a lot of PP here (similar to the Fuji with RPP)......I just get use it to convert to TIFF. I do dial down the sharpening.
Import into LR and do the usual.....again not a lot of PP.
Thanks for the questions.....gotta go make coffee.
R
Or move to Hawaii.......
scho
Well-known member
Doing well rich. Down in DC for a few days so getting by with iPhone.Around the boatyard
IMG]http://lanaihale.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1154814982-5.jpg[/IMG]
Different shot....not a crop.
Getting used to SPP.
R
will soon start a vendor thread for this item, but i have the prototype grip done for the Sigma DP Merril's and will post pics tomorrow:
features (similar to my OMD grip):
-grip has a rough textured surface
-baseplate is full length
-finish is black anodized aluminum
-fits using tripod mount, provides a second tripod mount when fitted
-has arca style grooves along base for fitting to a tripod clamp
-has a (removable) pin and slot for a wrist strap
-has an index mark for the lens centerline
-does not block access to the battery door
-weight is about 80 grams
optionally available as part of above:
-L-plate end for Portrait orientation, with arca grooves, tripod socket and index lines
made in Brooklyn
features (similar to my OMD grip):
-grip has a rough textured surface
-baseplate is full length
-finish is black anodized aluminum
-fits using tripod mount, provides a second tripod mount when fitted
-has arca style grooves along base for fitting to a tripod clamp
-has a (removable) pin and slot for a wrist strap
-has an index mark for the lens centerline
-does not block access to the battery door
-weight is about 80 grams
optionally available as part of above:
-L-plate end for Portrait orientation, with arca grooves, tripod socket and index lines
made in Brooklyn
Hi
thanks to all the great photos made with the DP2M in this thread, I ordered also one for me. Could not resist anymore.
Since it has no viewfinder, I need to take care of the LCD screen more than in the past. Can anybody recommend screenprotectors, which do not reflect, have great clarity and colours and with which I can still focus easily in the sun?
I heard names like Giottos Aegis, GGS and ACMAXX. Which are the best for the DP2M?
Which lensshade are you using, which extra battery, which UV filter for protecting the lens?
thanks to all the great photos made with the DP2M in this thread, I ordered also one for me. Could not resist anymore.
Since it has no viewfinder, I need to take care of the LCD screen more than in the past. Can anybody recommend screenprotectors, which do not reflect, have great clarity and colours and with which I can still focus easily in the sun?
I heard names like Giottos Aegis, GGS and ACMAXX. Which are the best for the DP2M?
Which lensshade are you using, which extra battery, which UV filter for protecting the lens?
Peter.......I hold it the same way. I really think it could benefit with a well-designed Thumbs-Up.
I tried the one from my XP-1, but it does not fit into the lower profile shoe.
R
biglouis
Well-known member
Mine arrived today. Bad weather most of the afternoon and I thought I wouldn't get a chance to test it until today. However, when I got back to my home area the sun peeped through the clouds.
I could wax lyrical about the beauty, sharpness and colouration of the captures out of this camera but the pictures speak for themselves. I will say that my best camera is my Fuji GSW690III ('Texas Leica') and these shots easily rival scans from 6x9 negs for detail.
PP: all hand held, process in SP5 with tweaks to exposure to recover highlights, export as 16-bit TIFF to LR so I can catalogue them, some cropping in LR, export to CS3 for curves adjustment and highlight/shadow recovery, resize for web, convert to sRGB, save-as jpg, slight reduction in saturation(!) in Microsoft picture viewer. No sharpening!
I could wax lyrical about the beauty, sharpness and colouration of the captures out of this camera but the pictures speak for themselves. I will say that my best camera is my Fuji GSW690III ('Texas Leica') and these shots easily rival scans from 6x9 negs for detail.
PP: all hand held, process in SP5 with tweaks to exposure to recover highlights, export as 16-bit TIFF to LR so I can catalogue them, some cropping in LR, export to CS3 for curves adjustment and highlight/shadow recovery, resize for web, convert to sRGB, save-as jpg, slight reduction in saturation(!) in Microsoft picture viewer. No sharpening!
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Re: Accessories for DP2
Thread is 49mm. Infos only available on the Us site of sigma. It seems that you can use filter plus lens shade. I do not know whether the original filter and lens shade of Sigma is worth it. Would love to hear about other options.
I would always use a lens shade, no matter on which lens. Not only on sunny days.
I just tried an accmaxx for the LCD screen, which I still had for my Sony a900. Size fits almost perfect, but I find it too thick. Would like to try another, but no store has others in stock in my town.
Thread is 49mm. Infos only available on the Us site of sigma. It seems that you can use filter plus lens shade. I do not know whether the original filter and lens shade of Sigma is worth it. Would love to hear about other options.
I would always use a lens shade, no matter on which lens. Not only on sunny days.