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Sigma DP2 Merrill shots

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
Hi Michiel

Should be fine. I chose the Nodal Ninja because of ts compact size.

First test pano shot using the Nodal Ninja and EZ levelling head on a lightweight tripod.



And here is the setup



At the moment I have only set the nodal point quite roughly but it looks prettty accurate and far better than using a ball head on a tripod or hand-held.

I use the 2 sec delay to avoid camera shake, and manual focus / exposure, of course.

Yet to try a multi-row pano

Quentin
 

pophoto

New member
Hi All,

I'm still seeing some great images, keep them rolling!
What is the longest exposure you can take with this camera? Is there a bulb mode?
Also have any of tried any long exposures with the DP2M, say >1min? (Would love to see the results)

Thanks!
Po
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
Re: Accessories for DP2

Can anyone share advice on:
...
2. Whether a protection filter can be added. Searching the web seems to suggest the thread on the lens is 49mm???
It is 49mm. I am using a Kenko Zeta UV L41.

I also have a Hoya HRT circular polarising filter.

3. Is the lens hood really necessary?
I'm sure it helps but I don't have one,
 
F

FullFrameOrBust

Guest
Gentleman ... hats off to all!!! How rare to see a product review mated with such talent.
A special hats off to Quentin for all the European input with such high quality ...wow!

Having just traveled the Ca coast and then visited Buffalo Ny and Lechworth State Park it's like a dream come true here.

PeterB... where are the N.Truro shots man??? ...I'm just up the road in Rochester Ma... the DP2 should be ideal on the Cape.

My Fuji XE-1 pre-order is in serious jeapordy...
 
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pflower

Member
A Hasselblad in your pocket :)
Thorkil
I don't know about that. BUT .. This weekend I did find myself standing the garden with my H3D-39 sitting on a tripod and the DP2M in my pocket. I have never previously bothered to compare cameras before but here are two photos of my cottage. Both cameras on tripod, mirror up and 10 sec delay on the Hasselblad, 2 sec delay on the DP2. DP2 files exported from SPP to 16 bit tiffs. 3FR files treated directly in LR4 and sharpened to taste. No sharpening on the DP2M files.

Both at f8 approx 1/20th - Hasselblad 80mm f2.8 at 50 iso and DP2 at 100.

Given the difference between the size of the files there is probably no useful information to be gained from these, but they amused me.

Still struggling to get decent colour out of SPP but I do note that the HC 80mm lists at £2,150 inclusive of VAT and I paid £799 for the DP2M.

Hasselblad



SP2M



Crops

Hasselblad



DP2

 

ustein

Contributing Editor
I am working on some Photoshop techniques to enhance the saturation in the shadows and lower mid-tones.

Actually I also desaturate the same range for "normal" photos because I kind of like the look in the middle of desaturated DP2M and other cams.

The winner is: The cottage :)
 

Thorkil

Well-known member
Well. Well, well, those wonderful English cottages…!!(and thanks "pflower"!) Some of you just live in a very well preserved fairy tale! Apart from that, I just have looked perhaps 10 times at each crops. They are certainly different I think, even though they aren’t. They render very differently although they don’t. Things appear in a “very” different way. When I look at the Hassy I think, that’s the sharpest one, precise, refined. But then I look at the Merrill and then it’s this one that seems to be sharpest. And the M has a tiny “edge”, and its just a very few millimetres before its tilting over, and that’s why the sharpness has to be turned a tiny bit down I think, so that it doesn’t get close of being “overnatural”. But the M render somewhat more “plasticity”, express the shapes more pronounced than the Hassy, which is a bit more cool and a tiny bit more flat. The M seems to have this tiny bit more “punch” (which have to be handled with care).
Not bad at all for our tiny pocket-camera(!!!)(well havn’t got it yet, though)
Thorkil
 

pflower

Member
I'm not sure just how much of a fairy tale it is. These are 3 "1 up and 1 down" cottages joined together plus a large 1960s extension. Probably built in about 1620 and just one brick thick with no foundations (Read Cold in winter). Legend has it they were sun-up to sun-rise cottages - i.e. what the labourer could build with assistance in that time - shades of the film Witness.

I am interested in hedges at the moment - man made ordered nature attacked by nature itself - I made a lot of pictures with both cameras over the weekend. Lots of texture but very green (SPP not good on green). I think I agree with your assessment. If I had to choose between them purely on image quality I would go with the hasselblad, but it is quite close run.

I have just made some A2 prints from both. Again "different" but not startlingly different in terms of detail. I think I might experimenting with reducing the sharpness of the DP2 files which can seem to me a bit harsh. SPP is a pain if you want to fine tune (may not even be possible) and I suspect there is going to be a very long learning curve to get the best out of it. I still pray for Adobe support.


Well. Well, well, those wonderful English cottages…!!(and thanks "pflower"!) Some of you just live in a very well preserved fairy tale! Apart from that, I just have looked perhaps 10 times at each crops. They are certainly different I think, even though they aren’t. They render very differently although they don’t. Things appear in a “very” different way. When I look at the Hassy I think, that’s the sharpest one, precise, refined. But then I look at the Merrill and then it’s this one that seems to be sharpest. And the M has a tiny “edge”, and its just a very few millimetres before its tilting over, and that’s why the sharpness has to be turned a tiny bit down I think, so that it doesn’t get close of being “overnatural”. But the M render somewhat more “plasticity”, express the shapes more pronounced than the Hassy, which is a bit more cool and a tiny bit more flat. The M seems to have this tiny bit more “punch” (which have to be handled with care).
Not bad at all for our tiny pocket-camera(!!!)(well havn’t got it yet, though)
Thorkil
 

Sapphie

Member
The fact that you are even comparing them 'on the same page' says a lot doesn't it?

And, whether it is digital trickery or not, it is still a paradigm shift to have to think about turning sharpness 'down'!

When I compare images displayed here, on this forum, between Sigma and Fuji X-Pro, I think the Fujis look more natural. The Sigmas are no doubt wonderful but maybe they don't 'down size' so well for web viewing and can look a little 'gritty', not sure how to describe it.

Anyway, I guess the only way to tell for sure is to have one 'in the flesh' and see for one self ... maybe ...

Lee
 
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