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Sigma DP2 Merrill shots

scho

Well-known member
A few shots taken with the DP2M today on a backyard gorge walk. All on tripod with one stitched image. Exposure was difficult with the patchy ice and snow.







 

scho

Well-known member
Carl I hope those were your dogs tracks in that first image ;)
No Jim, not my dog, but lots of dog walkers use the trail in this gorge (as well as coyotes :eek:). Actually, coyotes killed an off-leash dog on this trail last year when it ran out ahead of the owners into the woods.
 

MarcoPampaloni

New member
Hello everybody

first of all a big "CIAO", this is my very first post here, i am Marco from Italy.

I've been reading and following with enthusiams this forum and especially this thread about the DP2M, and now i am going to buy one in the next week, i think.

I have just one question, which for sure will be quite stupid for you: regarding lens hood and UV filter, do i have to buy the official Sigmas or any 49mm UV filter and any 49mm lens hood will fit anyway?

Thank you again!
 

Jim DE

New member
You could use any filter and hood but you must beware that it is possible to have some corner issues if the combo sticks out too far and affects the lenses field of view. The Sigma hood is designed to work in conjunction with a filter and still stay out of the FOV while protecting the lens from stray light or damage. I use a lens hood neoprene cap overtop of the lens hood like one would use a lens cap for added protection when not in use. Works great so far......
 

kgelner

New member
Hello everybody

first of all a big "CIAO", this is my very first post here, i am Marco from Italy.

I've been reading and following with enthusiams this forum and especially this thread about the DP2M, and now i am going to buy one in the next week, i think.

I have just one question, which for sure will be quite stupid for you: regarding lens hood and UV filter, do i have to buy the official Sigmas or any 49mm UV filter and any 49mm lens hood will fit anyway?

Thank you again!
You can buy any 49mm filter, they all will work.

The Sigma lens hood though fits over the lens on special flanges, that make it easier to attach/take off than a screw-on filter. I think it may also be possible to put on any filter and then also the lens hood as a result, though I'm not 100% sure about that.

Something that I like using in place of both a UV filter and a lens hood is this 49mm screw-on fast-cap:

OP/TECH USA Fast Cap with Metal Ring

It adds some depth in front of the lens which acts like a shallow lens hood. Also because the well where the front element sits is deeper, it's a bit more protected - and because it's also a lens cap when not shooting the lens is sealed away and protected totally.
 

retow

Member
You can buy any 49mm filter, they all will work.

The Sigma lens hood though fits over the lens on special flanges, that make it easier to attach/take off than a screw-on filter. I think it may also be possible to put on any filter and then also the lens hood as a result, though I'm not 100% sure about that.

Something that I like using in place of both a UV filter and a lens hood is this 49mm screw-on fast-cap:

OP/TECH USA Fast Cap with Metal Ring

It adds some depth in front of the lens which acts like a shallow lens hood. Also because the well where the front element sits is deeper, it's a bit more protected - and because it's also a lens cap when not shooting the lens is sealed away and protected totally.
Could you show a picture how it looks on the DP1/2M?
 

biglouis

Well-known member
Personally, I'm glad I just went for the bog-standard Sigma 49mm filter and Sigma lens hood.

Apart from anything else I think the lens hood actually looks good.

On top of that I also bought an OP/TECH USA Hood Hat (I think the Mini size) which fits perfectly over both the lens hood and the filter meaning I don't have to fiddle with (and probably lose) the lens cap.
 

OliverM

Member
Hi,

I also got my DP-2M last week and had first tests last week in Switzerland.

My first very positive feelings :
- amazing details and no image defaults
- I am confident it will deliver better landscape images that any dslr I had before, and the pocket size is a miracle
- I don't care about speed limitations (AF, Write) or lack of viewfinder, I am used with more painful cameras, and what counts for me is the absolute IQ it can deliver. I am not interested in getting easily a decent image.

Main only concern :
- I am very disappointed by the Sigma Photo Pro which seems to be the weak point of the system in terms of IQ. I don't care about huge treatment times, limited features. The issue is that the software systematically applies some treatment on the image, and that the result is often far from the initial true raw quality that appears during 0,5-1 second : colors become less accurate, contrast becomes ugly in some situations (especially in portraits). Some corrections can be made that limit the negative impact (also highlight correction is very good), these corrections can work on landscapes but not on skin. I really miss the true neutral treatment.

Any tip is very welcome !

Many thanks to all for this thread that made me discover this great camera !
Marc
 

Jim DE

New member
Your images look great OliverM...... you can select the degree of processing SPP applies or set up a adjustment treatment of your own.

I would suggest if you are not already doing it to shoot in Neutral color mode and I even use AWB for my scenics as well. When I import the file into SPP I do very little except a slight movement of the color wheel adjustment 1/2 way out to 0300. Then export a full size or 1/2 size 16bit out to be finessed in Capture One or Aperture depending on my needs or wants. I have CS6 but avoid using it unless I absolutely have to.

I hear all the complaints about SPP but for me and my scenics I find I have to do extremely little PP in SPP or the other PP softwares with these images. For me it is just a RAW conversion process to TIFF basically.I also only do scenics and avoid people in my images like I avoid CS6 so I cannot comment on skin tones and such.

I am with you though....... the DP Merrill's are awesome tools :)
 

biglouis

Well-known member
The issue is that the software systematically applies some treatment on the image, and that the result is often far from the initial true raw quality that appears during 0,5-1 second : colors become less accurate, contrast becomes ugly in some situations (especially in portraits). Some corrections can be made that limit the negative impact (also highlight correction is very good), these corrections can work on landscapes but not on skin. I really miss the true neutral treatment.
You may already know this but the software remembers your last settings and applies them to any subsequent photograph. Personally, I usually hit reset before processing a picture to completely zero-base it.

BTW, I really like the hut picture. I bet that would blow up to an incredible print.

LouisB
 

OliverM

Member
Thanks Jim,

for landscapes it's fine and I achieve what I want with the combination of SPP & Lightroom.

SPP processing, all to zero, whatever the mode (neutral, std, portrait, ...), even with contrast & sharpening to minimum, give a too digital look, hard tones, that is not there when the picture is displayed at the very beginning ... we can get more from the raw file by applying less treatments.
 

Jim DE

New member
Oliver what happens if you move the adjustment mode slider to file .... is it still too much?

I would think the "file" setting is what you are seeing the first 5 seconds...... I am just throwing suggestions out there for ya. I threw a "eyeball" shot into SPP which has some skin tones around it and the "file" setting skin looked good... auto turned slightly green.
 
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