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Sigma DP3M

biglouis

Well-known member
Incredible cropability

The Sigma's never fail to amaze me how they remain sharp right down to 100%. My RX1 comes close but not this close.

Original


Crop
 
I don't want to highjack this thread with an OT question but could I ask any of you who use higher ISO settings to take a quick look at my post at the end of the nearby High ISO thread.

Please.

Tony
 
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Kyndel

Member
I have just ordered the Sigma DP1M (I have the Sigma DP2), and if the new camera is as good as the former (I know the corners can bit less sharp, and there can be a bit CA, but that is to live with, I think), then - perhaps - I can not resist this Sigma DP3M,

....but tell me about the AF-performance - it is not fantastic, but only OK from the Sigma DP2M, but I forgive everything when I see the pictures, but is it less good from Sigma DP3M ??

THANKS A LOT
 

biglouis

Well-known member
Kyndel

I am not at all impressed with the AF of the DP3M. It is actually very poor, in my experience. The problem is that when focus is spot on the results are nothing short of spectacular, especially at f2.8-3.2. The DP3M is definitely a love-hate relationship for me. Love the results, hate the AF.

LouisB
 
Louis,

You know I am hankering for an excuse to buy the DP3 for my studio work.

You talk about slow autofocus. Would you worry that it might struggle to focus using the modelling lights? Does it have a spot focus option so one can focus on the nearest eye?

Tony
 

biglouis

Well-known member
Tony

Spot focus? Sort of in that you have a 3 x 3 grid of focus points just like on all of the 3 cameras. I tend to adjust my frame to include the point if required.

Hulyss Bowman has the most experience of shooting with studio lights with models. You might want to PM him for his opinion.

LouisB
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
Hello, as some asked me via mail if focussing is or isn't an issue in studio here is my answer:

Focussing with a DP3m in studio is faster than focussing with any MFDB ever created, like H5D (and "true" focus lol).

This need some basic operations :

At first, no need dazzling lights to be able to focus; simple modelling lights are very sufficient. Once on your tripod, you can use MF or AF. I personally use MF with magnification, it is extremely quick. For that, understanding that the DP use contrast AF, you need to spot a good contrast zone. Before shooting, since we all want "focus on eye", set the AF size to the minimum (back arrow and dial). Then, set the focus area to be free of move. You will be able to chose you AF point even in diagonal.

After the "studio setting" of the DP, you can start to shoot. Always prefer an aperture in the range of f4, f6.3. Have enough room to be able to shoot your model in full portrait mode (you see foots and head). At this distance and aperture, minimal AF error will be invisible even at 100% so do not worry. The modelling light should reflect in at least one eye : This is your contrast zone !

So you can magnify to 100% and focus manually (the LCD display will be as crap as you can imagine but, after all, it work fine every times). The AF should work to, I use it sometimes, but it can hunt badly so always use MF, it is very fast. Shoot, process the file roughly in SPP, do not touch sharpness and export double size tiff 16bit Profoto RGB. You're done.

For fast aperture shoot, this is a little bit more tricky but very doable with some experimentation. Use f2.8 exclusively on close up portraits (between 50 and 90cm) and use the same method but ask your model to NOT MOVE.

Hope this help a bit :)
 
Thanks Hulyss

" Have enough room to be able to shoot your model in full portrait mode (you see foots and head)."

With a DP3? My guess that is 20 feet away.

I'd planned to buy my DP3 for head - and possibly to waist - portraits.

Should I be buying the DP2 and assuming I won't get distortion?

Thanks anyway for confirming that modelling lights are OK for focussing.

Tony
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
The DP2 is less recommended for studio shoot. First, because this is not a portrait camera and second because of is color rendition, less good than the DP3.

The "rules" in portrait and people photography are quite clear and academic. For the purists, using a focal under 100 mm is a sin. Somehow, I agree. So using the DP3 for "American" plan should not be a real problem but you will have distortion, even with the DP3.

I hope SIGMA will come out with a Full Frame sensor soon, or at least a DP with SA mount. The only problem is the loose of the leaf shutter, so it is a bad thing.

We need a DP with FF foveon sensor and a 135f2 glass on it with leaf shutter ;) >> THIS WOULD BE AN ULTIMATE CAMERA FOR FASHION SHOOTERS OVER THE WORLD, PERIOD.

Otherwise, better way to use traditional bayer DSLR for pro work, IMHO.

For the DP3, 3 meters are sufficient to shoot almost an entire human body.
 
Thanks Hulyss.

I'll stay with the DP3 then. There is a good deal in the UK at the moment taking it just under 500 UKP. (Or is seems good to me!!).

Tony
 

Kyndel

Member
Kyndel

I am not at all impressed with the AF of the DP3M. It is actually very poor, in my experience. The problem is that when focus is spot on the results are nothing short of spectacular, especially at f2.8-3.2. The DP3M is definitely a love-hate relationship for me. Love the results, hate the AF.

LouisB
Thank You, Louis, oh yes I can see top-results here from you, but as I understand you the AF is not so good as the DP1M or DP2M ? = As I recall you have the DP2M also ?

Added: I think I have read all reviews and test about the DP3M, and some says, that the AF is improved after the last firmware update, have you tryed this Louis ?
 
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Kyndel

Member
In the end of next week I will get an offer about the DP3M (new, not used), and if it is a good offer, I will end up with 1-2-3 Merrill,

....can not help it :eek:

I am inspired after reading Hulyss Bowmans review of the DP3M at L.Landscape.:)

Thanks.
 
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