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'B' mode on DP2M, possible?

biglouis

Well-known member
I was about to push the button on a Lee 75 system with a 'big stopper' 10 stop filter and then I suddenly thought - is there a 'b' mode to open the shutter for extended periods on a DP2M?

I tried looking in the manual but I can't see anything.

Anyone any ideas? Unless I can get the shutter open for minutes I reckon the big stopper is not going to work.

LouisB
 

usathyan

New member
You can do exposure stacking the way astro photographers do...I think the max time you can have the shutter open with Dp2 is 30sec.
 

adsf

New member
You can do exposure stacking the way astro photographers do...I think the max time you can have the shutter open with Dp2 is 30sec.
Does that actually give you more "light" or does it just make you able to do a longer exposore without getting your sensor hot?

Cause he needs to do a longer exposure for gaining more light...

I guess if he "stacks" 10 exposures ov 30s he wont get the brightness of a single 300s exposure? He will just catch the same movements.


Ok, i guess your point is that he doesnt need the strong grey filter if he will stack together multiple exposures. Now i get it! Im slow sometimes.
 

biglouis

Well-known member
There are two issues here and both worry me now I think about it.

Firstly, you are right even if I could open the shutter for 2 minutes I wonder now what the impact would be on the sensor.

Secondly, there are all sort of NR issues with digital.

I think I'll stick to film. So much easier with my Hasselblad kit which actually comes with a B setting!

Louis
 

chris007

New member
This is one of the main drawback of the DPxM's. I often use 10 stop filter, but I can't use them with DP1m.
I think it's possible to make a few frames with the built-in intervalometer and put them together with PS. But then I have to deal with many huge files, which sometimes is a pain. I really like the micro contrast of the DP1m I have tested. But the 30 second limit on long exposures holds me back to buy it. As Loius mentioned 2 minutes would be a great limit.

I'm not sure why the DPxM's have this limit. Is it due to much noise on exposures with more than 30 seconds? Is the SD1 doing this job well?

Chris
 

chris007

New member
This is one of the main drawback of the DPxM's. I often use 10 stop filter, but I can't use them with DP1m.

I think it's possible to make a few frames with the built-in intervalometer and put them together with PS. But then I have to deal with many huge files, which sometimes is a pain. I really like the micro contrast of the DP1m I have tested. But the 30 second limit on long exposures holds me back to buy it. As Loius mentioned 2 minutes would be a great limit.

I'm not sure why the DPxM's have this limit. Is it due to much noise on exposures with more than 30 seconds? Is the SD1 doing this job well?

Chris
 
A

antoniez

Guest
This is one of the main drawback of the DPxM's. I often use 10 stop filter, but I can't use them with DP1m.

I think it's possible to make a few frames with the built-in intervalometer and put them together with PS. But then I have to deal with many huge files, which sometimes is a pain. I really like the micro contrast of the DP1m I have tested. But the 30 second limit on long exposures holds me back to buy it. As Loius mentioned 2 minutes would be a great limit.

I'm not sure why the DPxM's have this limit. Is it due to much noise on exposures with more than 30 seconds? Is the SD1 doing this job well?

Chris
I'm considering getting ND filters for my DP1m, and have been wondering about the 10-stopper.
Could you say what sort of the maximum is it can use, for making the sea or water smooth?
Or does this question not make sense, because it all depends on the light available?
Antonie
 

Jim DE

New member
Chris, I have mentioned this before but when using my Singh Ray VariND filter on my DP2m it has issues at MAX or one dot up from MAX. It displays a center magenta splotch nearly every time so I just avoid those settings and accept it for what it is. I have used that filter on every camera I own and the Merrill is the only camera this happens on.

It was disappointing when I first saw it but the other IQ assets this camera has otherwise far outweighed this minor inconvenience.
 

chris007

New member
I'm considering getting ND filters for my DP1m, and have been wondering about the 10-stopper.
Could you say what sort of the maximum is it can use, for making the sea or water smooth?
Or does this question not make sense, because it all depends on the light available?
Antonie
Sorry Antonie, I can't answer that question in a proper way at the moment, I have not tested with the 10 step ND filter. Of course it all depends on the light available. In very bright conditions 30 seconds can be enough to get a correct exposed frame. But for instance at sunrise or sunset 30 seconds is too less. And changing ISO settings is not helpful as well. It is wise to use DP Merrills at ISO 100 or 200...

The question is, if exposure stacking can create the same effect as a 10 Stop ND filter? However, it is more time time-consuming.

Chris
 
A

antoniez

Guest
Sorry Antonie, I can't answer that question in a proper way at the moment, I have not tested with the 10 step ND filter. Of course it all depends on the light available. In very bright conditions 30 seconds can be enough to get a correct exposed frame. But for instance at sunrise or sunset 30 seconds is too less. And changing ISO settings is not helpful as well. It is wise to use DP Merrills at ISO 100 or 200...

The question is, if exposure stacking can create the same effect as a 10 Stop ND filter? However, it is more time time-consuming.

Chris
Thanks Chris for the answer. I'm probably just so new to ND filters that I may be asking the wrong question. I suppose my question is: what would be a good ND to get, for things like making water blurry in normal daylight condition? Does it have to be a 10-stop filter? Or can you get more or less the same result with, say, a six-stop filter?
Antonie
 

biglouis

Well-known member
I'm considering getting ND filters for my DP1m, and have been wondering about the 10-stopper.
Could you say what sort of the maximum is it can use, for making the sea or water smooth?
Or does this question not make sense, because it all depends on the light available?
Antonie
My main interest is to make the sea and water smooth in any light.

LouisB
 

chris007

New member
Thanks Chris for the answer. I'm probably just so new to ND filters that I may be asking the wrong question. I suppose my question is: what would be a good ND to get, for things like making water blurry in normal daylight condition? Does it have to be a 10-stop filter? Or can you get more or less the same result with, say, a six-stop filter?
Antonie
It depends on a few parameters. How fast is the water floating? How bright is the overall scene? Which effect do you want?
To make water look blurry in my opinion it's not necessary to use 10 Stop filter. With a 6 stop ND in normal light conditions you can reach 2 to 20 seconds exposure time, which is enough to make water blurry. If you have a polarizer you can combine it with the ND filter to get even longer exposure times.

BUT: Be warned if you fell in love with long exposure, sooner or later you will get a 10 Stop ND, it's addictive ... :D

Chris
 

biglouis

Well-known member
It depends on a few parameters. How fast is the water floating? How bright is the overall scene? Which effect do you want?
To make water look blurry in my opinion it's not necessary to use 10 Stop filter. With a 6 stop ND in normal light conditions you can reach 2 to 20 seconds exposure time, which is enough to make water blurry. If you have a polarizer you can combine it with the ND filter to get even longer exposure times.

BUT: Be warned if you fell in love with long exposure, sooner or later you will get a 10 Stop ND, it's addictive ... :D

Chris
Thinking about it again - I think I'll invest in filters for my trusty old Hasselblad kit first.

LouisB
 
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